BIRD IN FLIGHT ONLY -- share your BIF photos here
- By shire_guy
- Animal Kingdom
- 8486 Replies
Nice photo and I'm pretty sure it's first for the species in this forum!
Thank you ISv.
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Nice photo and I'm pretty sure it's first for the species in this forum!
Plus, even if this tele zoom is quite fast with f/4.5, it needs substantially smaller lenses for the m34 sensor format. So, the production of such a zoom should be cheaper than of a comparable tele lens/zoom that has to cover a FF image circle. From that perspective, I guess that you get more high quality glass for the money when you buy a Canon tele lensThe OM SYSTEM M. Zuiko 150-400mm f/4.5 TC 1.25 IS PRO Lens costs $8,600 from B&H! That gives Canon some scope.
Hope you'll will wait sucessfully - this could turn out to be the most rumored tele zoom that never hit the market. That said, if it came, I'd be certainly very interested myself.I've been eyeing with the 600/4 III for some time, but now I'm just waiting for the rumored 300-600/5.6.
Funny, I also picked up a used EF100L and a 50mm in 2020 to do newborn photos when my daughter was born during Covid lockdown. Yeah, I don’t think the R8 really needs any new bells and whistles, at least for photography.I did the same, a local camera store had the option to rent the R+RP+RF50L for free and that made me realize the R wasn't €1000 better than the RP. So I bought an RP + EF100L macro lens and sold my EF100-non-L macro.
I'm not sure what features in an R8II would make me replace my R8, it still works great for everything I do. Flash with ES is the bare minimum, but not enough![]()
The EF 100-400 L II is one of the lenses I still regretI think more of us. I understand completely. It is an increasingly important argument for me too. I now use my 100-400II more often on a gimbal head in a photo hide. And less often in my hand all day in nature.
I don't care about digital sensor sizes. But I am a true believer of 6x6 negative filmThere is a lot of great used FF gear. But the implication that the only way into photography is through a new FF camera just isnt true. If anything that's gatekeeping. Id wager the vast majority of folks who started photography with a digital camera did not start on full frame.
Totally agreed — it's been a game changer for my 300 f/4 + 1.4x and 2x extenders in the PNW forests. Figured I'd throw that out there because a) you'd probably educate me if I were off (ha!) and b) people are trying to understand the impact of DOF preview impacts (probably more pertinent if the button is changed to a switch instead of a hold-down preview).Canon's spec is with an f/1.2 lens (without a DS coating), yes. But even something like –4 or –3 EV is really dark...say a landscape under a gibbous moon instead of a sliver of a moon.
Canon's spec is with an f/1.2 lens (without a DS coating), yes. But even something like –4 or –3 EV is really dark...say a landscape under a gibbous moon instead of a sliver of a moon.But that's for an f/1.2 aperture, right? Aperture limited scenarios, like lenses with a base f/4 or adding extenders, does reduce the performative effect, right? (As opposed to just stopping down, which the camera largely ignores when focusing.) Being pedantic, an R3's -7.5 EV for an f/1.2 lens would effectively become -4.0 if the attached lens is natively f/4 (7.5 reduced by ~ 3.5 stops penalty for the f/4 maximum aperture). That's not nothing, but it's there.
I think more of us. I understand completely. It is an increasingly important argument for me too. I now use my 100-400II more often on a gimbal head in a photo hide. And less often in my hand all day in nature.And looking for lighter gear, yet not at all ready to sacrifice optical quality!
Not only from GAS, but also from no longer being 20 (far from it) as well as from knee damage.Ah, I see you suffer from G.A.S.
Since I am ok with my 100-400 II and 70-200 f/4 II, my G.A.S. is limited to 20-50 only![]()
But that's for an f/1.2 aperture, right? Aperture limited scenarios, like lenses with a base f/4 or adding extenders, does reduce the performative effect, right? (As opposed to just stopping down, which the camera largely ignores when focusing.) Being pedantic, an R3's -7.5 EV for an f/1.2 lens would effectively become -4.0 if the attached lens is natively f/4 (7.5 reduced by ~ 3.5 stops penalty for the f/4 maximum aperture). That's not nothing, but it's there.What do you mean by low light? AF sensitivity for current MILCs is below –6 EV (the R8 is –6.5 EV, for example). That light level is something like a 8 minute exposure at f/5.6, like shooting a landscape under a sliver of moonlight. In moderately dim light, when I stopped the 28-70/2 down to f/22, it opened the aperture to around f/11 for AF (video in a prior thread on the RF 45/1.2 discussing focus shift).
I'm pretty much in the same boat, although I'm in a post-purchase dilemma.My dilemma is named 100-500. Should I replace it, along with the 70-200 f/4, with the 70-200 Z + 2X?
On the other hand, the Z is almost as long and heavy as the 100-500, while the f/4 70-200 is sooo compact and light...
Not really an issue, since in low-light situations the aperture usually stays fully open.
What do you mean by low light? AF sensitivity for current MILCs is below –6 EV (the R8 is –6.5 EV, for example). That light level is something like a 8 minute exposure at f/5.6, like shooting a landscape under a sliver of moonlight. In moderately dim light, when I stopped the 28-70/2 down to f/22, it opened the aperture to around f/11 for AF (video in a prior thread on the RF 45/1.2 discussing focus shift).
What do you mean by low light? AF sensitivity for current MILCs is below –6 EV (the R8 is –6.5 EV, for example). That light level is something like a 8 minute exposure at f/5.6, like shooting a landscape under a sliver of moonlight. In moderately dim light, when I stopped the 28-70/2 down to f/22, it opened the aperture to around f/11 for AF (video in a prior thread on the RF 45/1.2 discussing focus shift).Using Exposure + DOF simulation will hurt low-light AF performance, won't it? I've switched to having Exposure + DOF simulation as the default setting on my cameras, but on occasion I'll switch it off in some low-light conditions (if I remember).
Ah, I see you suffer from G.A.S.It is a mouth watering lens, according to all its happy owners.
My dilemma is named 100-500. Should I replace it, along with the 70-200 f/4, with the 70-200 Z + 2X?
It would be a huge weight and space advantage for mountain hikes, my standard lens being the 70-200 f/4, the 100-500 for longer distances being kept in the backpack.
On the other hand, the Z is almost as long and heavy as the 100-500, while the f/4 70-200 is sooo compact and light...
Buying the 70-200 Z and keeping the rest is no option, one lens will become fully superfluous and collect dust.
I am really at a loss what to do.
Not really an issue, since in low-light situations the aperture usually stays fully open.Using Exposure + DOF simulation will hurt low-light AF performance, won't it? I've switched to having Exposure + DOF simulation as the default setting on my cameras, but on occasion I'll switch it off in some low-light conditions (if I remember). I also often use the camera in burst mode and that helps get good images, but is tedious in post.
I've read somewhere about possibly setting it to Exposure only and have DOF only when pressing the DOF button (which I currently have assigned to other functions), so the idea would be to focus then press the DOF button and then the shutter while still holding the DOF button. I haven't tried it, but seems cumbersome to me.
I rarelly, if ever, have issues with both at the same time, so it is more of a settings management topic I guess.
Curious to learn how others have managed the focus shift vs low-light settings.