Thanks.

Have preordered and am curious if there is any information out there

Thanks for sharing.

Small update. Owned since 30JUL20 and passed the 350,000 actuation mark(mostly electronic) last month and have recorded nine freezes. The first couple I did remove the battery tray but on the following ones I just waited ~15 seconds and the camera has reset itself every time. This has happened across all the firmwares including the most recent lockup, yesterday, on 1.4.0. It has been about four months since my last one. I cycle between four pairs of LP-E6NH batteries in a grip, also cycle through four Delkin 512GB CFExpress cards. So far the only constant has been while using the 600 II w/1.4X but since that is my primary use lens for wildlife, lol, no real surprises it would happen there if was to happen with any lens. The only common thing I noted is each freeze seems to happen while tracking a relatively motionless subject(yesterday's was a Killdeer doing start/stop darts for snacks) in ES. Has anyone noted this occurring using the mechanical shutter?

Joules said:

With those numbers, anecdotes only get you so far.

This is an nice resource for checking out how other users fared with their shutter counts:

Camera Shutter Life | Sitemap

Canon's numbers are no exact counts at which the camera will fail, but just estimates of what consumers can reasonably expect.

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Very true, which is why Canon (and most other advertising claims) are careful to use the caveat “up to”.

In practice, some users will experience shutter failure earlier, and some will achieve greater longevity, depending on quality control issues, shooting style, how much shock or vibration the camera receives and various other factors. The quoted figures nevertheless are probably a fairly accurate indication of expected maximum lifespan.

FWIW, my higher than average figures reflect cameras that have received a lot of incidental abuse, in the form of knocks, vibration, and extremes of temperature and humidity. Most of the time I shoot in bursts of 3 (bracketed exposures), or occasionally sustained bursts of up to 3 seconds (BIF), at shutter speeds in the 1/250 to 1/4000 range. I rarely take single shots.

AlanF said:

As I wrote, the JJC hood didn't fit over the 95mm filter on mine. Maybe it needs a slim fit filter. Was yours a very tight fit?

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I'm using 95mm slim, clear protection filter, Mfg. by Ice, purchased on Amz and am able to use with both filter installed, lens cap attached and hood fits easily over my 800 lens, in either position, Alan. Priced at under $20.00, I had my doubts and was skeptical about the quality of this filter but have been impressed with the metal filter rim and glass, so far. Could it just be your filter brand and/or size? Do you have a friend with a 95mm filter different than yours that you might try? Good luck.

With EF-S lenses the camera will automatically apply a 1.6x crop. But the lenses all work fine, with very limited exceptions (like a 20+ year old power zoom lens that won’t power zoom, and lens buttons on old supertelephoto lenses not working).

moved this to the right spot, sorry!

neuroanatomist said:

I’m not sure I see the benefit of AF in a TS lens. For me, at least, the ability to use a rear filter is more benefit. But the extra 3mm would also be useful.

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AF is not what I am looking for. 14mm with movements is.

Viggo said:

We have to keep receipts on our gear ready to show the customs, even for old gear, if you can’t prove you didn’t buy it while traveling you can be forced to pay the taxes on retail Norwegian price (again). Luckily it’s not like they have resources to really pick you out and follow through, but it happens.

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Wow...amazing.
As a minimun...I'd think it would be Childs play to "create" a receipt that looks official to carry with your for most anything you buy, no?

I mean, is there a law governing how recipes are printed and that it has to have official and special QR codes or other encrypted official markings?

Just for educational discussions of course....and I don't live in Europe.

I think your best bet would be the RF 24-105 f4! It’s actually a really good lens, it is very surprisingly sharp and probably sharper than the EF because of the use of the adapter. Allowing the back lens glass being closer to the sensor is a good advantage, plus the convenience of simple connection. The auto focus is very fast as you would expect and the versatility is awesome. However, you need to be aware that the zoom barrel on the RF 24-105mm F4 has a wobble, it is very common and does not affect performance whatsoever! Nonetheless, you can’t go wrong with the RF glass

Angelbird

Yeah ProCam is the only place I can imagine that would have them, and like you saw they only seem to stock cartridges for the PRO-1000, none of the large format printers. Maybe I'll check with Canon, but I can't fathom anywhere else would sell them if Procam doesn't. I thought maybe there was some commercial or office ink supplier that might, but then again they aren't really office printers.

Good read over on his website! Nothing beats a in built grip I am still guilty of hanging onto my 1d4 for straight JPG burst shooting, mainly for GIFs / Time-lapses. Just keep it in the car at all times.
Our Melbourne lockdown is slowly easing to permit the photography industry. Hope to test out these ergonomics at the Canon Experience store soon.

Installed, from a first glance, looks great. Thanks.

Yongnus doesn't seem to be in the business of making wide zooms. Would lov an affordable RF 14-34 f4 from anyone at this stage.

bergstrom said:

Did no one post any reviews of this. The price is just too much, would buy an EF one and adaptor.

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I'd say the price was correct for the launch, given that the lens is still on backorder in major shops.

As to the performance, the lens is great when/if you can use DPP; I'm still waiting for Adobe to add the lens profile to ACR. A minor annoyance is the placement of the zoom ring, poorly suited for people with big hands.

greyhoundrick said:

Yes John, that is a great point!

Hard to beat B&H with the generous returns and Payboo discounts!

Thanks for the info!

Rick

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Hi Rick,

I would read their return policy very carefully. The B&H return policy states that

• All returned or exchanged items must be in new condition, in their original box, and must include all packing material, blank warranty cards, manuals, and all accessories.

If you use a camera for 2-3 weeks taking hundreds of photos that is not "new condition", but used.

Hi kten,
We didn't have long to wait. Haven't we?
Sirui announced an Indiegogo campaign for FF 50mm x1.6 squeeze T2.9 lens in RF, L, Z, & E mounts. If history is prologue, we'll soon have a 35, 24 and 75mm affordable anamorphic FULL FRAME RF lenses from them in the next few much months.

LogicExtremist said:

Hi all, I'm new here but a regular reader on this site. From the graphs the RF 100-400 looks to have a bit less contrast and sharpness than the EF 100-400 and RF 100-500, looks quite promising despite f/8 aperture.

Surprisingly, one thing that nobody has mentioned is the PMo (plastic-molded) aspherical lens element.

We've also recently seen the use of a molded plastic aspherical lens element in the RF 50mm f/1.8.

This seems like a strange trend in new Canon RF lenses, considering that PMo aspherical lens element were reserved for cheap kit lenses in the past. The next level of lenses used molded glass aspherical elements, with ground glass aspherical lens elements being the mainstay in L-series glass from what I can figure.

Scouring the internet, I can only find the following Canon lenses which utilise pMo aspherical elements:

1. Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS - one PMo (precision molded) aspherical element
2. Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM - one PMo (precision molded) aspherical element
3. Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM - one PMo (precision molded) aspherical element
4. Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM - two aspherical lens elements, one is a high-precision large-diameter PMo (Plastic-Molded) lens.
5. Canon EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM - three aspherical elements, one is glass-molded and the other two are precision molded,
6. RF 50mm f/1.8 STM - one precision molded optic (PMO) aspherical element
7. Canon RF 100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USM - one precision molded optic (PMO) aspherical element

This lens looks so much like a full frame version of the EF-S 55-250mm IS STM, (which provides the crop equivalent of 88-400mm @ F9). Even though Canon was so miserly as to not even put a metal lens mount on that lens, its optics were really good, and from what I can ascertain, this lens had no PMo elements. This lens also had no sealing, so it wasn't dust proof and drip proof either.

From the Canon Camera Museum - https://global.canon/en/c-museum/special/exhibition1.html

Plastic-molded (PMo) aspherical lens elements

PMo aspherical lens elements are formed by injecting resin into an aspherical surface mold. Highly suitable for mass production, they play a major role in improving the image quality of entry-level lenses, such as the EF-S10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM (released in 2014), which need to be kept relatively affordable. Resin is injected into a high-precision mold that takes the shape of an aspherical lens. After the lens element is separated from the mold, coatings are added to finish the lens.

Trying to find the life expectancy of optical resins proved frustrating. I've yet to hear of an optical plastic as durable as glass., and I suspect that all plastics degrade over time, and won't have the life expectancy of molded or ground glass elements. I've had a Canon EF-S 10-18mm for many years, and the optics are still good. Perhaps only time will tell if or when these resins decrease in optical clarity as they age.

I'm not sure what this trend indicates. Is it cost cutting to increase profits, or is Canon cutting back on its construction of 'budget' lenses, even more so than in the past?

Looking forward to seeing how the RF 100-400mm compares against the EF 100-400mm II, RF 100-500mm and even the EF-S 55-250mm. Then we'll know what kind of image quality, construction and durability we're getting for our money ($649 USD, £699, 730 €, $1,200 AUD).

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Interesting point. Photo-oxidation is the major source of degradation of plastics. So, an f/8 lens with an internal plastic element that is not in use 24/7 should last a good few years.

Pixel said:

My EF 400 2.8 L IS II doesn't get near the FPS in mechanical shutter as my RF 28-70 f2L and the 400 isn't all that old. If you think all of your old EF lenses are going to work perfectly on the R3 you're delusional because it's physically impossible due to the lack of electrical contacts compared to the RF's.

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I would expect the EF 400mm f2.8 lenses to perform to the same high standards as they would on EF bodies when put on RF bodies. On the RF body I would expect a RF 400mm f2.8 lens to perform even better because it is designed to take advantage of the improvements inherent to the RF body.
In summary, it all depends on what you are comparing.

Sporgon said:

I looked the price of the Hahnel batteries up here in the UK and I was surprised to see that they are pretty close to the genuine Canon ones in price. For my 'work' cameras I've always used genuine Canon batteries.

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They were significantly cheaper than Canon ones when I bought them, but I've also changed to going Canon-only for batteries, so I haven't monitored the pricing.

entoman said:

Yes, *any* EF lens should work fine on RF mount cameras, using the Canon adaptor. At least, that’s the theory.

In practice, some will acquire focus as rapidly as Canon glass, but others will be slower and more hesitant, due to heavy elements and/or less efficient focus motors.

Tracking subjects across the frame, at a near-constant distance, should theoretically be as good as with Canon glass, as it is dependent on Canon’s tracking algorithms, rather than an ability to refocus. However, AF and tracking both utilise cross-talk between chips in the *lens* as well as the body, so third party lenses may not track quite as efficiently, especially when using eye-AF.

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that's always been the case.. likely due to reverse engineering.

however I use a sigma 150-600C just fine on the R5 for birding with the adapter.. and I use the sigma 30mm ART, 20mm ART, etc without any tracking issues. To be honest don't find it significantly slower than my RF 24-70 2.8L and that is one of the cringe worth prices.

I have been running a pretty long term timelapse on an EOS R that I have. It has been going for several months now, taking photos at 5min intervals. Here are a few things I've learned specific to such long term timelapses that might help other people doing long timelapses.

1) Don't rely on the camera's native timelapse feature for a few reasons.

I realized that when doing a really long timelapse, it's best to use an external intervalometer and join the photos into a timelapse after the fact with software. The internal feature is good for shorter timelapses, but there are some big drawbacks for long timelapses. First and most obvious, the number of frames is limited to 3600 in the camera. Second I have noticed that even though the camera has a feature where it can adjust exposure for each frame, I've realized that there seems to be a limit to how much the camera will adjust the exposure between each frame. It took me a while to realize this was causing my problems. If your frame rate is fairly quick, say every 45 seconds or so, this will not cause an issue with a transition from daytime to night if you are doing an outdoor scene. However, in my case, a frame rate of 1 frame every 5 minutes meant that the camera did not allow the exposure to adjust from daytime to nighttime smoothly. Obviously this isn't an issue when using an intervalometer since each and every frame will have the proper exposure adjustment. I'm not aware of any documentation that talks about this weird lag in timelapse mode to adjust the exposure from frame to frame, so it's worth noting.

Also, one set of fresh AAA batteries has been running my intervalometer timer for a few months now. I thought the intervalometer battery life might be an issue, but it hasn't been.

Using an intervalometer allows you to check settings and review photos between frames as well, which is nice for a very long term timelapse.

2) Turn off sensor cleaning completely.

Obviously I have been using the full electronic shutter so I don't put thousands of additional clicks on my camera, but one thing I learned is that you should probably turn off sensor cleaning as well. The only error I had when doing this timelapse was once when the camera suddenly popped up an error saying it could not complete sensor cleaning. I thought maybe the sensor cleaning mechanism was toast because it has been running every 5 minutes for months (each time the camera goes to sleep between frames) but actually it was just a one time fluke error. Once I powered the camera on and off, sensor cleaning started working again. But obviously the sensor cleaning routine is apparently a little bit of a weak spot for reliability since it errored out on me one time. I decided it's probably best just to disable sensor cleaning. Curiously, I discovered that you can't even set it to just clean the sensor at power off, because apparently the camera considers going to sleep as powering off, as it kept running the sensor cleaning when it went to sleep until I turned off the sensor cleaning completely.

3) Use a Canon genuine DR-E6 DC coupler to power the camera.

I learned this before, but third party knockoff DC couplers (dummy batteries) are recognized by the camera as a battery, not a true DC coupler, so eventually the camera will think it has depleted the "battery" and will shut off. The Canon genuine DR-E6 is recognized by the camera as a true hardwired power source, so the camera will run indefinitely on it as long as there is power. Do be aware though that you can run the DR-E6 from a third party AC to DC adapter, as long as it has the proper connector to plug into a DR-E6. And the DR-E6 uses a little bit of a weird connector, so not all third party AC adapters fit it.

I found a reply here: