Posts

makera · Mar 13, 2019

SwissFrank said:
I cannot imagine that a presentation is going to be long enough to figure out how to use the camera.

It certainly focuses extremely quickly once you learn how it works.

You can certainly run the entire camera with the right hand. If you want two hands, you can use the left for support as usual, as well as zoom, focus, and if you want, adjusting the control ring (I have it set for aperture in A P and F modes).

My recommendation is to use the touch bar for AF mode, and the right-hand part of the touch screen in relative mode to move focus point. If you haven't tried that mode, long enough to get used to it, you wouldn't know enough to make a decision.

Yes, certainly a longer test is better. I had the camera for an hour to test in the hand and have only these impressions. I did not understand how to set the focus point quickly with just the right hand and without putting the camera off the eye. The Canon presenter had no idea.
With a 1DX II one is very spoiled (I only miss a quieter mode) and the R did not feel like an improvement. I'm waiting for an R pro.

Nat_WA · Mar 13, 2019

Nice compositions, especially the first and second pictures (first you can imagine to be jaws from an ice creature, second estranges as you hardly see / realize the icicles are reflecting)

!
W.

ethanz · Mar 13, 2019

Sony is still investing a lot into their camera business.

awair · Mar 12, 2019

Just to clarify - there are two versions of "the manual": the basic "Instruction Manual", a paper guide that may be included with your camera (?) & and the "Advanced User Guide" (612 pages), which is download only.

Regrettably, it seems that you have to read the manual to work this out...

... not even sure if this (text) is in the Basic version!

iamjhil · Mar 12, 2019

I like the EVF, But In video The EVF Auto Mode, it automatically switches back and forth when I have the camera on a gimbal.
So I saved it with my video settings to be manually changed, then setup a button to toggle it on/off. So i have no gimbal issues

But in picture mode i like having it on Auto. Begin able to review photos on the screen after i take the picture.

It seems weird that I can't have that setting change based on my custom button settings....

Or am i doing something wrong? Thanks.

ken · Mar 12, 2019

Ughh... I guess the physics makes it impossible. I guess I haven't adjusted to the time change yet.

karishmab · Mar 12, 2019

What a beautiful flower it is! Great Macro capture.

JPAZ · Mar 11, 2019

Never did Annapurna but did Mustang (right around the corner, so to speak) with a DSLR (Canon 50D long since retired), an EF-S15-85, lots of batteries and my 70-200 F/4 IS. Wore the camera on my chest in a TT Holster. Were I to do it again, I'd try to go with even less weight.

DON'T underestimate the effects of altitude on your health! Great region and great photos.

CanonGrunt · Mar 11, 2019

K-35 clones would sell well. Really well. A lot of people, myself included, have a set of moded FDs just to try and get close, seeing as the K-35s shared the same elements. Not perfect by any means, but the cost of a k-35 full set lies somewhere between a fancy car and a 3 bedroom house depending on condition...

Also, if anyone is curious of what matching FD glass and K-35 glass looks like, watch The Handmaid’s Tale. They mix them together in that show, and rather well I think.

GRM · Mar 11, 2019

Just signed up to Canon Rumors and as a wedding photographer this had to be my first stop!!
I know this thread is pretty old now, but has anyone any other comments regarding "Squarespace"?
I am looking to move / improve my website (https://www.gmatherphotography.com) to a more modern platform and would love to hear peoples thoughts in this regard?

Thank you all in anticipation!!
Glenn

photonius · Mar 11, 2019

Mistral75 said:
IVY 2in1 instant camera looks like a digital camera with a built-in printer (think Instax Square SQ10) and IVY instant camera like a plain instant camera.

it was more of a joke. But seriously, the printer part is probably technically the part that uses most of the space. So, it's a printer, and they put in a camera (like those you find in a smart phone).

Michael Clark · Mar 11, 2019

Khristo said:
So I played with this a bit yesterday. Set up my 5D3 with a highly contrasty scene - inside looking from darker room areas out to bright blue sky and fluffy white clouds. Set a middling manual exposure of aperture and shutter (can't remember exactly what, but say f8 and 60th), then took seven shots in 1 stop increments from 100 ISO through to 3200 ISO, all without changing the manual exposure settings.
Processed RAW images in Lightroom. Without any processing on import, the 100 ISO was very dark, while the 3200 was very bright. Then adjusted the exposure in LR (+3.0 stops for the 100 ISO, +2 stops for the 200 ISO, and so on to -3.0 for the 3200 ISO).
If the whole system (sensor, plus in-camera processing, plus LR processing) was ISO invariant, each image should have looked the same? Well they sure didn't.
The 100 ISO shot had MASSIVE noise in the pushed dark areas while the 1600 and 3200 ISO shots were not noisy in that area. The sky areas in the 100 ISO shot were nice blue sky and fluffy cloud detail. Same areas in the 3200 ISO shot was totally blown white, and almost as much in the 1600 shot. (White balance was also different at the same colour temp setting.)

After reading this thread and some other info, I had expected to see much less difference. And that would have made sense from the idea that the physical sensor's light gathering capability can't change based on what ISO you dial in. In fact, having seen the results of my simple test, I'm now wondering what the hell is going on in-camera to get this difference - even wondering if the camera can evaluate the scene, compare with your Av Tv and ISO settings and maybe adjust the settings a bit (without telling you or your RAW file) on the basis of an assumption of what you're trying to achieve. Seems unlikely, but I really am sceptical that such a difference would be evident just from the difference between the analogue and digital amplification steps.

Anyway, upshot is, if you got a 5D3, don't think you can set any 'ol number on the ISO dial and fix it later. Not quite sure how, but there's a big difference.

The difference is that dynamic range is always relative, never absolute. It's saying the same thing in a different way as when we say "noise": what we really mean is the Signal-to-Noise Ratio. You can have three times as much noise in an image, but if you have nine times the signal (and have not blown the highlights) then you have a cleaner image.

When you underexpose by three stops at ISO 100, you're packing all of the dynamic range of the scene into the lowest 8th of the camera's dynamic range without reducing the camera's fixed pattern and read noise. When you overexpose by three stops, you're placing all of the camera's dynamic range in the dimmest parts of the scene.

DSP121 · Mar 11, 2019

Great collection, Glenn! All the pics are just superb! I love all the photos.

JPAZ · Mar 11, 2019

Put it on Eco mode. I don't see much different except for the review and LCD is much shorter. Tried the viewfinder on the economy setting and it became pretty "choppy." I have 3 batteries (one that came with the camera and 2 from before) so I will leave the viewfinder on "smooth" for now. The feels very much slower than the %Div but the reality is it will not matter for most applications.

So, at the end of the day, the biggest annoyance is the need to use DPP to view the RP's .CR3 files and then sends a TIFF back to PS (or LR through a circuitous route). I know that the folks at Adobe will get a .CR3 reader for LR and PS (and hopefully so will Topaz) but I hope that is soon. Anyway, I think this is a "keeper" now that I've had a few days with it.

digigal · Mar 10, 2019

Thanks for both your comments. I think SereneSpeed really narrowed it down for me at this point. Most of my shooting is still with my 7DMII + 100-400 II. I'm just beginning to more seriously add full frame, wider angle photography to my interests. So for the added versatility of the RF 35 vs the SA 35, I think it's the place to start for me.

Kit. · Mar 10, 2019

slclick said:
Has there already been a 'Where's the G7Xiii?" post?

G7X III + CCAPI ...

awair · Mar 10, 2019

My 2c, given only 48 hours with the camera.

It's a great purchase for the money: full frame, native EF lenses and smaller than my SL1, which is now "officially" retired!

The good: as above; Accurate AF; EVF is not noticeably 'E', until... see below

The bad: EVF - not bright enough outdoors (no option to change); not the blackout, but the 'freeze frame' & preview, while trying to compose next shot; EVF too slow to activate, when bringing camera to eye.
AF - no idea what 'auto' is trying to lock on; 'spot' is fiddly to change (miss the joystick)

Things to get used to: buttons a little close together, for recalling customised settings (AF on, set to AF OFF; *, set to centre the focus point); don't leave in 'M' mode - no image visible until the exposure settings are close!

Kit Lens Jockey · Mar 10, 2019

For the life of me, I cannot find an online manual for the Canon RU-41 roll paper unit. Does anyone know where I can find the manual for this?

Viggo · Mar 10, 2019

privatebydesign said:
What 1 series? As I understand, from Mt Spokane's excellent link, the newer standard wasn't implemented into cameras until at least the 1D MkIV or more probably the 1DX.

But your findings run contrary to mine. I found the older cameras needed more exposure than suggested and the newer cameras pretty much spot on.

Yeah, I can’t remember when, but I think at least the mk4 had it... and so should every camera on the planet..

JoFT · Mar 9, 2019

One photo illustrates where this lens stand for...

Dantana · Mar 9, 2019

Del Paso said:
Me too!

Me too. This might push me to upgrade my 6D to the R. I'd love to shave some size/weight off my regular walk around gear. For me it's mostly the wide and normal end. I don't use the tele end as much (and I don't expect much in size or weight savings there), so I would probably stick with an adapted 70-300L for a while at least. As an aside, I picked that one up used last year and loved having it on a family trip to Alaska. An R version of that would eventually end up in my kit, but I have to prioritize my gear budget since this is just a hobby for me.

I'm sure they are in the works. Those lenses sell a lot with their lower buy in compared to the 2.8's.

analoggrotto · Mar 9, 2019

I just hope canon is cooking up something solid for the $3000+ camera body to accompany these cray cray lenses. Heavy, powerful, expensive, fast. That the first RF 50mm is a F1.2 and L is just strange. I wonder if they are retooling their semiconductor production for the next generation sensor hence the seemingly disjointed launch?

Del Paso · Mar 8, 2019

It's time to start a "Save Sony" subscription.

Graphic.Artifacts · Mar 7, 2019

PL mounts make sense since that will significantly broaden the market for these.

I'd love to add a cinema lens to my portfolio but the problem is that my canon video cams (1DX2, Log5D4) as basically useless without DPAF. There's no way I could consistently pull manual focus on either. Fixed rear LCD, no focusing aids and no 4K out to an external recorder that could add focusing aids. That 35 CN-E would be awesome but the reality is that on my gear I'll get much better results with my 35 f2 IS.

Mar 7, 2019

GMCPhotographics said:
But it's easy to get the legs of the tripod in a shot with the shift function (wider than the 11-24L). With my fish eye lens, the 8-15L there is very little point in using a tripod...it's SO wide and it's hard to keep the legs out of the shot.

Minor point, but at max shift the TS-E 17 gives a FoV that is pretty much identical to 11mm. Still, with either you definitely need to pay attention to your tripod legs and sometimes even your own feet!

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