I have a question. Are you going to europe to enjoy your trip or take photos? Because based on that depends on what You bring. If you want to take photos 6D 17-40/24-105/501.8. If you are enjoying your trip, rent 18-135 STM lens for period of your trip and bring 7D. Or rent Canon SL1 or SL2 aka 200D, since its super small and light and takes up almost no space and weight at all. Those are 1 lens solutions you need for the trip as leisure photographer.

If rain is your worry get optech rain cover ... i think 2 pack is like 4$. It will protect your gear just fine and its reusable. I used it with much much MUCH more expensive gear and i still have it.

Bennymiata said:

I've noticed their prices going down over the last couple of weeks, but not in Australia (as usual).
Could be that a new version is coming up (I hope).

Click to expand...

Maybe, but £600 and £750 price drops overnight from just one retailer is more likely to be a pricing error.

TRW a PowerShot superzoom shoots faster than your 5D4

Canon EF 180mm f3.5 Macro L lens is sharpest baddest meanest lens i have ever had in my hands. It surpasses anything else i have tried. I did not try 300mm 2.8 II, but i can not imagine it being sharper or much sharper then this.

Are you selling or buying? You can usually sell a working lens for more because the replacement of the cable may not fix it. Consider getting it repaired and then sell it.

Is there a way to jump to my posting in a thread (without looking at all my postings and picking out the one in the thread of interest)?

My anecdotal experience revealed no increased propensity for dust with the mirrorless ILC I had for a couple of years.

zim said:

stevelee said:

Even more sophisticated would be if they put in some kind of mechanism to move the sensor protecting glass out of the light path when you take a picture.

Click to expand...

wot, like a mirror! ;D

Click to expand...

Yeah, great idea! We should patent that. The photographer could actually see the view through the lens rather than just seeing another copy of live view.

Hi Chris.
Other things can slow it down too, one could be the AF settings for AI Servo, first shot priority Focus, second shot priority Focus could be slower on a poor contrast subject than first shot priority Speed, second shot priority Speed.
I really hope you get this sorted, as I said before, they are a great camera in my opinion. (I guess you believe that anyway as you bought one!)

Cheers, Graham.

Khristo said:

The plot thickens. I was out in the garden with it yesterday, it had 10 burst shots showing in the viewfinder, but on pressing the shutter release only 4 fired before slowing down to the card transfer rate. I then watched in the viewfinder as the burst rate indicator slowly ticked back up from 1 to 10. Then I did the same thing again with the same result. Then after that, I started getting 10 full burst shots again and it has been fine since.

I note from the manual that High ISO noise reduction and ISO safety shift can also reduce the max burst, but both of these were off.

I think like its new owner it's just starting to get a bit old and grumpy ;D ! I've since replaced the Date/Time battery, so we'll see if it settles down now.

Click to expand...

robotfist said:

Sure wish it would have an 18mm lens on the wide end but I know it won't. All these compact zoom cameras always start with 24mm.

Click to expand...

On this camera, that would be a 3.2mm lens for 18mm equivalent.

Re: Industry News: Nikon Announces Development of Next Generation Full-Frame Mirrorless Camera and N

It should be possible to actuate a sensor and use test charts to bring things into alignment, much like AMFA.

Nikon's camera is rumored to have IBIS. I haven't see one yet which moves in an out of plane or pivots, but doing so would not be revolutionary.

In their latest earnings call, the sensor manufacturer Tower Jazz (Tower Semiconductor Ltd.) again talked about working with a "leading DSLR camera supplier":




The specific end markets we are serving in these segments are RF low noise amplifier and switch for mobile application, low voltage power management ICs less than 30 volt, with an industry lowest RDS (on) on figure of merit and associated 65 nanometer logic circuitry benefit and image sensors for multiple end market applications to include machine vision, DSLR, medical X-ray and surveillance.

For mid to long-term accretive market growth, we are progressing well with a leading DSLR camera supplier and have as well begun a second project with this customer, using state-of-the-art stacked wafer technology on 300-millimeter wafers. For this DSLR supplier, the first front side elimination project is progressing according to plan, expecting to ramp the volume production in 2020, while the second stacked wafer based project with industry leading alignment accuracy and associated performance benefits is expected to ramp to volume production a year after.


Read more: https://nikonrumors.com/2018/07/27/towerjazz-we-are-progressing-well-with-a-leading-dslr-camera-supplier-and-have-as-well-begun-a-second-project-with-this-customer.aspx/#ixzz5MWD1wNIZ

Canon MF mirrorless.

kat.hayes said:

Jim,

What do you mean by:

“You're correct, but this is true only for when camera doesn't control your lighting (i.e. manual strobe in a dark room, or daylight with no flash).”

I am using PocketWizards to trigger my strobe but there are no control on the camera for the lights, I need to manually change them on the back of the strobe. Are you referring to a Flash/strobe mounted to a camera?

Click to expand...

Sorry; I should have been more clear that by control I mean controlling the output power for each exposure, not just triggering it.

kat.hayes said:

What do you mean by a “manual” strobe?

By strobe, I am referring to studio strobes and I am using a handheld meter. My strobes are controlled by changing the dials on the back of them. I am suspecting that you are referring to a Flash/strobe mounted to a camera that reads available lighting and sets it that way?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

By manual strobe I mean one like yours where the only way to adjust the power is with the dial on the back. You can get strobes that do ETTL the same way a full-featured speedlite sitting on top of your camera does (via a radio trigger), and you can get cheap on-camera flashes that have only manual power adjustment.

The important part is knowing whether your camera will meter the aperture/shutter/ISO or the flash power or both or neither; for your studio, manual control is obviously fine for both the exposure and flash settings.

I hope that answers your question? If not by all means ask away.

Jim

DZY said:

johnf3f said:

If it's any help I used to have the Mk1 version - very nice lens despite the age. Happy bidding!

Click to expand...

Thanks! I look specifically for the 400/2.8 non-is mk2 because I read online that this lens has much less CA and the IQ is much better than mk1. I think for this focal length and weight, IS is not that important but is welcomed. So for the $/value point, I want this lens. Any 400L is superior.
Another question, do I need the 300/2.8 IS mk1 if I have the 200/2? I think I don't, but the beauty of the 300/2.8 is too alluring.

Click to expand...

Well the IQ was pretty good on my Mk1, it even stood a 2 x extender reasonably well. Naturally the newer versions are better - but costlier!

Do you already have the 300 F2.8 L IS Mk1? If so then I would prefer that lens to the 400 Non is. It works extremely well with the Mk3 2 x extender and a Mk2/31.4 extender + it is MUCH lighter too. Of course if you specifically need a 400 F2.8 then the 300 is a compromise.

As to IS there are differing opinions on this facility/feature. Personally I dislike IS and do not want it on my lenses - unfortunately they come with it and Canon refuse to remove it, so I have to be content with just turning it off. However I still have the weight and price penalty. These days the Canon 800 F5.6 L IS is my long lens and the only use I have found for IS is when using it as a spotting scope (Live view) I never use it for photography as it just mucks up the AF too much.

https://photorumors.com/2018/07/27/laowa-24mm-f-14-relay-2x-macro-lens-specifications-additional-information-and-release-date/

Other website have story on lens.

https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/canon-50mm-f-0-75-xi-lens-review-on-the-sony-stephen-m-blythe/#more-71703

stevelee said:

Cochese said:

AlanF said:

I thought I read somewhere that the new M50 in video combines IBIS with lens IS for the newer lenses such as the EF-M 15-45mm but not the older EF-M 18-55mm?

Click to expand...

It's not IBIS like you're thinking. Since the video is a crop of the full sensor, Canon essentially uses the extra pixels to imitate a stabilized sensor by shifting the active pixels.

Click to expand...

Yes, it is the same kind of stabilization you can get in post in FCP X, for example. My 6D2 will also do the same kind of thing. You have to have stabilization turned on in the lens, if it has it, as well as enabling the software in the camera. I don't think the 6D2 crops for video otherwise. The handheld video I took of basketball this summer looked very stable even though I wasn't being very careful as I shot.

Click to expand...

I have tracked down how it works in: https://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2018/04/01/canon-cpplus-2018-mirrorless-strategy-development-focus-dual-sensing-tech
It adds information from the motion of the image detected on the sensor to that detected by the gyros in the lens to calculate the IS in the lens. In other words, all the stabilization is done by the IS in the lens but it is guided both by the gyros and the sensor, but mainly the gyros.

Beautiful series. 8) Well done, Glenn.

I eventually opted for the 24-70mm f4, after the dreaded "Error 01 , communication between camera and lens faulty. Clean lens contact" error message began to appear on the rear LCD of my 5D mk VI when using my 24-105mm f4 mk 1

I've only used my new purchase on a few outing, but initial impressions are very positive. Corner sharpness appears to be excellent at all focal lengths, and i've yet to notice any performance issues in the middle of the zoom range (which was mentioned in some reviews).

BillB said:

Thought for the day. What happens if Canon rolls out a FF mirrorless about the size of an SL2 with an EF mount, a 5DIV sensor and a price around $2500?

Click to expand...

no way. But I might consider it a price of 999,-

Could be a lens coating flaking off the glass.

Lets not forget Red Camera getting into the mobile phone market!

https://www.lightingrumours.com/godox-v350-9937https://www.lightingrumours.com/godox-v350-9937

I met up with a local Meetup group in Dallas this past weekend. It was a night shoot on a pedestrian bridge and it was hot. So hot that all the models cancelled. There were about 15 of us standing around with nobody to photograph. Then Brynn and her boyfriend walked by and she graciously posed for us all for about an hour. It was a rushed situation so nothing special. This is what I got. Canon 5D Mark III and EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II.