bendilts said:

This 2-3 month old alligator had his picture taken a few feet from his loudly-hissing mother in the Everglades, from on board an airboat.

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I love the interplay of light and shadow.

EricN said:

I'm doing something wrong because I couldn't even get a burst of flowers to be effective enough

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Maybe I am using longer lenses for near macro, like the RF 100-400mm at 0.4x at about a metre/yard, it's easier. For flowers, I wouldn't use a burst but focus on the nearest part, take a shot, then turn through a small angle top something further away, and then a few more. The slight changes in angle have little adverse effect usually.

I'd really love a pancake lens in the 35-50mm range (like the EF 40mm 2.8)

Also cannot wait for canon to add a 70-180 (or whatever it'll turn out to be) f2.8 to complete the 16-28 f2.8 and 28-70 f2.8 trinity.

John Wilde said:

If memory serves, some companies have moved from China to Vietnam because labor costs are even lower there.

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Canon may also have moved out of China due to the extreme technology leakage that occurs there. Some noted at the time that Canon was early to recognize the China competitive threat and it is definitely showing up in lenses this year.

I can echo DVaNu above:

"Happy and Peaceful Holidays to all!"...and add the following Canon-related holiday tale...

=====

...annually (since 1997), I have constructed family calendars using three different paper sizes (all in inches)--4x6, 8.5x11 and 13x19.

For 3 or 4 years now, I've printed the 4x6 versions with the Canon G620 (North America model number, I think), a six color printer that works with small-sized prints...and the Canon ink is cheap (Photo Glossy II paper, usually).

Prior to using the G620, I used a local big box store that prints spectacular 4x6s using a Fujifilm machine.

For years, a Canon LBP7660Cdn was utilized to print 8x10 images; the color printer (which we still own) works well and on quality color laser paper, the tweaked images that result look decent enough...until compared with 8x10s from the G620.

I always hesitated using the Canon Pixma Pro 100 to print 8x10s...because the ink (sourced from eight 13 ml cartridges) is, frankly, prohibitively expensive. So I generally reserve the Pro 100 for 13x19 prints.

The Canon G620 prints on standard letter-sized paper very very well (although the speed per page is nothing to write home about), and its ink is pennies on the dollar compared to the Pro 100's ink.

But the reason I'm writing is, sort of holiday (as in December) related.

In December of 2024, I had successful cataract removal/lens replacement surgeries on both eyes. (Best Christmas gift ever.)

The paper that I utilize most when building the 8.5x11 calendars (printed with the G620) is Canon's standard Matte Paper (MP-101).

The MP-101 paper is NOT double-sided--while one side is best suited for ink jet printing (white with the faintest of bluish-tint), the other side is an off-white that is a bit tan/yellow in color.

Here's the deal: in past years (pre cataract-removal), it was virtually impossible for me to distinguish between the printable (white) side of MP-101 paper, as opposed to the tan/yellow side that is not designed for accurate color inkjet printing. I had to ask my wife for assistance.

This year's Christmas season? Post cataract-removal?

I can easily determine which side of MP-101 paper is the printable side.

Happy Holidays!

lindt1 said:

I got this lens a few month ago. Till now i haven't had the time to try it out at night. No tracking/stacking and very little experience in nightscape images.

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EOS R6 Mark II, RF 20 f/1.4 VCM, 30s, f/1.4, ISO 200

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Beautiful shot. Welcome to CR.

In a press release from the FCC, the US has done something we've long feared they would decide to do, which is cast the ban hammer at DJI and forbid the import of new drones into the United States from DJI and other foreign drone manufacturers that use DJI or other foreign components. What I […]

See full article...

I hate the very last sentence of the article!
My underwater gear dates from film times, a Fujica HDM and a Nikonos II.
I used them both for some scuba diving, but was never tempted enough to acquire strobes and accessory lenses.
I preferred spending my pocket money on oysters, lobsters, crabs and other seafoods in Bretagne (Brittany). And on Calvados, Muscadet and cidre...

Won't be possible as the SAC affects the focal length. Thought about a focus stack and adding a SAC shot for the background. But for mentioned reason this does not work.

Why did you start a new thread when you already have one before?

Also, what equipment [camera+lens] do you use nowadays?

foda said:

Terrific photos Glenn! What camera/lens combinations were you using?

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Glenn doesn't usually answer. According to the EXIF

P-visie said:

The thread is still active: https://www.canonrumors.com/forum/threads/is-a-canon-rf-35mm-f-1-2l-usm-on-the-horizon.44909/page-3

Maybe you couldn’t stand it any longer and clicked the “Ignore” button .

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Is there also a "I want this lens quick" button?

The M5 with the 22 was a great 2nd camera for me for a few years. It rarely gets a mention but I was impressed from the first look and feel. Even for larger hands it just worked.

No R100?

David the street guy said:

I know about Prograde cards, but the link you offered is for the United States, and I won't buy from Amazon, having experienced being sent fake Prograde cards twice (and 1 used and broken reader).

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The link that I provided was to B&H Photo, not Amazon. The former is a reputable camera dealer who will ship you the bona fide item you order, the latter is a convenient clearing house for counterfeit goods that facilitates the process by commingling their stock such that 'sold by and ships from Amazon' is meaningless, despite their claims that they are ending the practice (and those claims seem to perpetually be 'we're stopping soon).

David the street guy said:

That said, the writing speed of the Prograde is 850 MB/s, while the Lexar is 3300 MB/s, a huge difference.

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There is a difference between max write speed and sustained write speed. The Lexar is 3300 MB/s max write, 3000 MB/s sustained write. You're correct that is faster than the Prograde card, which for the 1 TB version I linked is 3000 MB/s max write and 1500 MB/s sustained write (the smaller cards are slower, my 256 GB card is the 850 MB/s sustained write).

What is your application that you need the highest possible sustained write speed? Canon cameras that use CFe are on the 2.0 standard, compatible with CFe 4.0 cards but unable to write at those speeds. Certainly the higher read speeds make transfers to a computer faster (using an appropriate card reader). I'm puzzled why you need the 3000 MB/s write speed. My understanding is that 8k/60p RAW video needs about 700 MB/s sustained write speed, and that's faster than anything needed for writing still images to a card.

mimbu said:

I know that buying a three thousand dollar camera with a sensor using tech that should have been retired a decade ago isn't something I'm interested in doing. Add in the entirely locked down mount and I don't get the attraction at all. In a just world, Nikon and Canon would flip places in market share.

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What about the current market share is unjust? If people want to buy "a three thousand dollar camera with a sensor using tech that should have been retired a decade ago" that's their perogative. Sony's Betamax was superior to VHS and look how that turned out.

With that said if you look at market share of Conon, Sony, Nikon and Fuji from a revenue perspective is appears to be getting a bit more balanced. However Fuji is the company gaining the most ground not Nikon.

Owned both Canon (6D to R62) and Sony System (A72 to A7R2 to A7c), and my experience is that the colours of the Sony system is not as good as Canon system, the (I have tried multiple methods and plenty of time to match exactly between the two cameras but it doesnt exactlyget the result of Canon camera). It get close but.never will match as the sensor response of the cameras are diffrent.

Availability of third party lens is not that big of an issue.as i am a street photographer and only uses prime lens, the 28/2.8 and 35/1.8 serve me well and i am interested in getting the 45 as well. The 28/2.8 is the most affordable prime i ever owned (bought used and its very sharp with good colors).

I use the 35/2.8on sony system and the kit lens of 28-60 sony lens.


Right now, I am happy for Canon 's offering of 45/1.2 for users whom do not have much cash like me and have a characteristic of clasic lens wih autofocus. I hope to get the classic lens look through this lensshooting wide open.

Do i wish for third party on Canon, yes the sigma 35/2 for its build quality but.i have to do suffice with current canon offering.

Sometimes i can't understand the hate canon gets from its user and other brands. No matter what they do, even when they litsen to its customer needs by producing cheaper lens. There will always be hate upon.

AlanF said:

I hope you will find someone. The 600/4 ii is too good, too new and still too expensive to write off. Of the ones suggested by Gemini, these were top of the list:

• Fixation (London): One of the most famous names in the UK. Though now part of Wex Photo Video, they operate as a specialist workshop for Nikon, Canon, and Sony. They offer sensor cleaning, lens calibration, and "while-you-wait" services.1
• A.J. Johnstone (Glasgow): A highly regarded repairer in Scotland with nationwide postal services.2 They are an authorised repair agent for several major brands like Canon and Nikon.
• DKAVS (Horley, Surrey): An authorised service centre for Panasonic (Lumix), Sony, and others.4 They are known for being one of the few places capable of handling complex electronic repairs on modern digital bodies.
• Camera Repair Direct (Surrey): A digital specialist with over 30 years of experience, known for fast turnaround times on DSLRs and compact cameras.
  

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Helpful as ever....you're a star! I'll give them a go.

Zahnete said:

The day Canon releases an R3 with higher resolution—if it ever does—there won’t be a single photographer willing to buy it, because everyone will already be with Sony and the A1.

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I have the A1 and the R5ii - there are so many differences (and none of them relate to image quality) in real world use that it comes down to personal preference. And the R3ii will probably still be a grand less than the A1.

Thanks for sharing. Beautiful scenery, very high image quality. Great shots. Well done!

Actually, with Canon's Loyalty program, if you have a Canon body that's old enough to no longer be serviced by them - and this includes old Powershots and film cameras - a phone call to the loyalty program can get you a new camera for 20% off list, or a refurb for 10% off.

This is limited to cameras that have been on the market for at least 6 months. (It's often cheaper to get a new one for 20% off than a refurb for 10% off!)

They have a similar deal for lenses: 15% off (10% off refurbed).

And they don't even want the old gear returned to them. Just read them the serial number.

This thread seems to have drifted off!
Sony has two high end cameras the A1 series and the A9 series so Canon definitely has room for the R1 & R3 and making the R3 MKII a high MP camera around the 45-50MP makes a lot of sense.
The R7 MKII needs to be a APS-C version of either the R1 or R3 which will move up its price but the R10 MKII could be improved and moved up where the R7 sits now. I have the current R10 and it’s a great camera I use for wildlife which is not my main area of photography being mainly a portrait shooter & landscape using the R5 for portraits and the R6 MKIII for landscapes.
The R10 paired with the RF 200-800mm has been a great combo and I also use the RF 100-400mm as a walk around wildlife lens the two together are so lightweight that’s the combo I travel abroad with on vacation adding the Sigma 18-50mm f2.8.
The R10 MKII at 30PM would be ideal along with slightly faster shutter speed and the enhanced AF (it struggles with the RF 200-800mm at the long end with birds in flight).

Click said:

Great shots! The first and 3rd are fantastic.

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Thanks, Click! Those just may be my favs of this set.

AlanF said:

The "damage" to your sensor appears to be a few "hot" or "stuck" pixels. Solar damage is usually a cluster of dead pixels. Are you sure the hot pixels weren't there before the exposure to the sun? I had meant to mention this earlier.

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Great idea, thank you! I don't know why I didn't think of that myself so far. I found some older, very dark images taken earlier this year, which also feature these two spots. It appears that we can rule out the ~5-10 s accidental stationary exposure to the hazy afternoon sun (~20% of maximum intensity) at f/1.8 and 50 mm focal length as having caused them.

However, judging by the calculated values in Table 7, just 5-10x longer would likely have caused permanent damage (TBC), meaning anywhere from half a minute to 1.5 minutes even under those hazy conditions. After seeing how much of an effect stopping down just a little makes, I will definitely not be walking around with the aperture wide open anymore (especially with telephoto lenses), and for sure not accidentally place the camera on a stationary surface facing the sun when dropping something anymore...

I'm freaking out with all these amazing lenses to choose from. Getting back into Photography, I sold all my EF lenses along with my 5D Mark III. I purchased the new R6 Mark III along with the RF 24-70 2.8L and the RF 100 2.8L. I absolutely need the RF 70-200 2.8 L Z version. I'm having anxiety trying my best to wait till spring. Might be impossible.