Posts

Rosssiiii · Feb 17, 2025

Hi

how can i enable focus sound on canon 2000d ?

i.imgur.com/CFDyrUb.jpeg

is this beep another function ?

HeavyPiper · Feb 16, 2025

I believe that Bryan at The-Digital Pictures.com has a review of the RSS Ascend-14L

CJaurelius · Feb 16, 2025

okaro said:
I fail to see why X100V is not a compact camera. There is no rule that compact cameras should have a small sensor. Classic compact cameras from the 1970s like Canon GIII QL used 35 mm film. A compact camera is a fixed lens camera. A compact camera is not a pocket camera,.

I'm highlighting that the trait of the camera is "Fixed Lens" and not the size of the cameras. You can see the conversation was about cameras like the M series, R50 and R100 all of which are interchangable lenses. They are focusing on the "Size" of the camera, when in fact what is popular is a simplisttic cameras that has a fixed lens.

P-visie · Feb 16, 2025

ahsanford said:
It's very dated of me, but that's why I liked the IR remotes. No fuss, no pairing, no ongoing battery hit from a feature being left on, etc.

I thought a fun exercise with the new body would be to shoot my corporate portrait (just for my outlook profile). But now I have the choice of using the cable release RS 80-N3 with an awkward reach, buying a bluetooth remote or having to pair my phone.

One of those methods will work and I'll get the shot I need. But IR (for all its headaches) would have been so much simpler for this.

- A

An advantage of the BR-E1 remote is that the remote does not need to be in front of the camera like the IR remote. You can use the BR-E1 to trigger the camera from the side or from behind the camera. On paper the RC-6 and BR-E1 have the same range (5 meter/ 16 ft), but my RC-6 struggled above 2 meters.

Feb 15, 2025

a.jiang said:
ProGrade CFe cards are great. I got two 512GB CFe 4.0 Gold cards in November 2023 for just over $300.

Interestingly, they seemed to have changed the Gold Series specs. The ones I bought have a sustained write speed of 2400 MB/s, and the ones they're currently selling are 850 MB/s.

From ProGrade:

There are no design changes to the product itself, only the sustained write speed message and label design...
Reason for change
In consideration of the current usage environment of general PCs, we have changed the speed measurement method to specify a sustained write speed that is closer to actual usage conditions

I guess what that means is that people figured out the 2400 MB/s sustained was not practically achievable, so ProGrade changed the number to match reality.

Ozarker · Feb 15, 2025

Sirui's next lenses could have interchangeable mounts to use one lens across multiple camera brands

Sirui is preparing to launch a brand new cine lens series with T1.4 apertures, replaceable mounts, and excellent optical quality for under $1,000!

www.yahoo.com

These are very interesting to me. The interchangeable mounts are bound to be of interest to someone.

I've often wondered how the look would change using a Cinema lens for photos.

AlanF · Feb 15, 2025

PhotonShark said:
The reason for the stacked sensor is so we can get rid of the mechanical shutter. If you've ever been in the bush (Africa) listening to a shutter going mad you'll understand what I'm talking about.

I would rather a 24 megapixel crop sensor with R3 readout speed. The 7D Mark II was such a great camera with only a 20.2 megapixel sensor and that produced awesome images.

You wrote you wanted

PhotonShark said:
24mp cropped sensor with improved low light and dynamic range

And I replied specifically to that point, which you don’t seem to have understood. A new 24 Mpx sensor is most unlikely to have an improved low light and dynamic range. And being stacked won’t improve that.

(As an aside, I use my R5 and R5ii solely in electronic shutter, and the R7 99%, and most of my shooting is of birds and wild life. I’ve used a variety of DSLRs in the bush, 7D-5DIV-5DSR, but never got close enough to scare things off with mechanical shutter or mirror slap. The R7 does have EFCS shutter mode if you don’t want to use ES or mechanical, but the R5ii stacked sensor is a good thing).

Rumours not rumors · Feb 15, 2025

It can't be coincidence that Canon is apparently about to announce new products as the price of a Canon EOS R6 Mark II Body has plunged $1,400 in a week and the Canon EOS R6 Mark II with RF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens kit has just plummeted a massive $2,000 in Australia. Perhaps a R6 Mark III is on the way along with a new Mark II version of the 24-105mm f/4L lens?

Dragon · Feb 14, 2025

koenkooi said:
My copy of the 150OS and Sigma 1.4x work very well together and the combination is still impressively sharp. But the OS isn't very useable (for me), especially when you have IBIS, so I've relegated it to the R8.

I'm looking forward to a modern 180-ish 1:1 macro for RF, having IS is a strong preference, but I'd take a fast focussing Sigma RF without IS/OS if it's lighter than my EF180L.

Sigma----Macro-----Lighter

. That would be revolutionary.

ronbyram · Feb 13, 2025

neuroanatomist said:
Assuming you’re not also shooting a 6DII DSLR, then 62A#xxxx and increment the # from zero, gets you to 100,000 shots. If you don’t have an R6, drop the leading 6 for two ## and you get a million shots.

that would work and is better that 9999

john1970 · Feb 13, 2025

I only use Canon OEM batteries in the R1 and R5 Mk2. Sorry I can't be of assistance.

Omn · Feb 13, 2025

neuroanatomist said:
Oh. Ok. Right. Yeah. Sure. Thanks for sharing that pithy bit of information from your well of knowledge.

No need to thank for snipping the "pithy bit" from the rest of the text, that credit rightfully goes to you.

koenkooi · Feb 13, 2025

Todays Adobe update for LR/ACR adds the profile for this lens: https://helpx.adobe.com/nl/camera-raw/kb/supported-lenses.html

Ozarker · Feb 10, 2025

neuroanatomist said:
Missed this. But yes.

RF 10-20mm f/4L IS STM

I suspect the profile isn’t marking those areas as ‘out of frame, paint it black’, which means it tries to stretch the neighboring pixels to fill it. I wonder if Adobe is experimenting with having generative AI fill in those black borders and forgot to turn on the settings for the ‘dumb’ border...

www.canonrumors.com

Thanks

David - Sydney · Feb 10, 2025

Feathered.lens said:
And why would you shoot landscape wide open?

I have 3 main reasons for shooting landscape at a wide aperture:
- Waterfalls with stronger water flow can generate wind/spray around the waterfall if you are close up. If the foreground moves eg tree/leaves and then I would take a wide aperture shot (or high ISO) and layer blending the foreground with the longer exposure for smoothing the water or bubble trails in the water.
For landscapes with no moving foreground then I would use f9 or narrower for sharpness. For seascapes, I want the foreground to move/blur so use longer exposure times (and/or use filters). Similar for cloud movement for cityscapes. If I want light stars (sun stars or night street light stars) then I will use <f16 to generate them.

- Focus stacking a foreground panorama where there is limited light. eg foreground for a milky way shot during blue hour where the light is changing fast. It can be much faster to take 2 shots focused on near/far distance wide open and stack them rather than f9 and stack each panel before merging a panorama of say 7 panels for 180 degrees.

As @neuroanatomist mentions, all astro landscape skies will be as wide as possible offsetting ISO. I use my Samyang 14/2.8 @f2.8 at 15-20 seconds per panel @ISO3200 which gives a reasonable ISO vs star trail balance. If using a star tracker then you can stop down eg 20/1.4 down to f2 to improve vignetting/sharpness with a 30sec-2minute exposure at low ISO.

Aperture is used creatively at the end of the day for what you want to achieve.

Arnie · Feb 9, 2025

neuroanatomist said:
No idea, but it was that way with the 1D X as well, IIRC.

Yes, I have switch to custom mode assigned to M.Fn. Pressing M.Fn cycles through the C# modes and M. My full setup is here.

Thanks again.

Quack · Feb 9, 2025

MkSprintz said:
Looks like an OM 3 with a stacked sensor. Would make an interesting development for budget conscious wildlife photographers. Combined with their 150-600.

For wildlife photographers, the OM-1 (mark i or II) would be the better choice in terms of ergonomics. This camera is for those that want the latest tech in a retro look and feel for general, vacation and street shooting, in my opinion. The OM-1 mark II is currently $400 off, so the same price, at least here in the US. That camera is my personal favorite for wildlife.

Del Paso · Feb 9, 2025

Del Paso said:
While I'm a very happy bunny with my brand new Bezzera Aria PID, how could I live so long without it?

But I also keep using my Lavazza mocha pots!

OldDudePhotog · Feb 8, 2025

I always carry a thinktank rain cover with me on every outing, even if they are not calling for rain and have had good results with them, if it helps.

Click · Feb 8, 2025

Lovely shots!

Del Paso · Feb 8, 2025

Arnie said:
I have read all the sections you mentioned and already set up back buttons for different focus scenarios and using them very efficiently but incorporating eye controlled auto focus with them seems to bit more tricky/requiring bit more homework. I tried a few set ups but can't seem to get the eye controlled autofocus working properly for the time being, will keep on working on it. Thanks for input, you have been very helpful.

That section does not cover eye controlled autofocus, I've been thru the chapter that has eye controlled autofocus but still can not get it working properly with my back button focus settings. It is working but not exactly picking up where I am looking, may be need to do calibration again. I might also have to change how I set up my back button focusing to suit eye controlled auto focus. I am using 3 back buttons for back button focusing at the moment. Thanks for your input.

If my answer is useless or off topic, please disregard.
I almost got crazy trying to set the eye controlled AF working on my R5 II. It just didn't focus where it should.
Until I read somewhere that the shutter release button should configured so it would enable not only shutter release and metering, but also the use of Eye AF. No idea whether it's the same with the R1...

nhandumuc · Feb 8, 2025

Thanks for all the great tests. Could you guys please if possible do these tests for 35VCM and 50VCM, I’m on the fence getting these lenses for night panorama!

Swissbob · Feb 7, 2025

What do you think about a 28-400?

I do like the 24-240 but it’s a bit short on the long end.

ender78 · Feb 7, 2025

I RMAd two of the 256GB v60 cards and received two 256GB v90s today. Took a fair bit longer than promised but I say I consider this great customer service.

LouisPepe · Feb 7, 2025

Rosssiiii said:
Hi everyone,

Yesterday I discovered that when I use the dummy battery with the Canon 50d and I try to take a photo the camera turns off at the exact moment it raises the mirror and remains with the it stuck in a raised position, then I reconnect the battery and the mirror lowers again.

There are no problems capturing photos when the camera is in live view mode because in this case it only has to activate the shutter.

I tried connecting the dummy battery to various 5v power banks and the transformed voltage is 8.42v, the one the camera receives, so there shouldn't be any problems but still this happens.

Perhaps more than not providing enough current something strange happens and I don't understand if it's the software side, however it's just a curiosity to understand since fortunately I was able to take photos anyway keeping the mirror always raised with the live view.

You may have a problem with your choice of 5v power for the dummy battery. As you suggest it’s likely the current is inadequate. For most AC to DC power supplies, you’ll see the output amperage on the power supply. There are two or more indicator locations on the 50D (according to the user manual I just read) that show the battery condition. That applies whether you are using a real battery or the dummy battery. Check your camera to see if it registers a full battery when using the dummy battery. I have a third party brand dummy battery that I use with my Canon 60D. That power supply provides 30 watts (1-2 amps) at the 8.4v required. It’s not the voltage that’s the likely problem with your equipment. It’s probably the amperage (current).

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