Posts

mackguyver · Jul 24, 2014

I think it's too much of a niche product for Canon and doubt they would ever produce one. The 8-15L is their answer to superwide.

mackguyver · Jul 24, 2014

I'd wait another 6-8 weeks to see if the 100-400 II materializes as a pre-Photokina announcement.

CanonOregon · Jul 24, 2014

Sharpest zoom I've used. The 'color' of images is what catches my eye. Can you go back to the dealer and try another in the store? Also, try focusing on an object from an angle and see if it's a 'focus point' issue- is the area in front of or behind sharper than where you set the focus? It should be about the best lens you've ever used, love mine.

Viggo · Jul 23, 2014

IMG_0001 said:
Viggo said:

IMG_0001 said:

privatebydesign said:

Viggo said:

RLPhoto said:

I dont know but A PCB Einstein @ 640 W/s would take atleast 6+ Speelites to get kinda close to the full power output. It would be the same with these if they are measures the same.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, but I can't buy Einstein, it's not sold here and I can't import due to importing rules, think it's about the lithium battery, and I think thy used to be only 120V , not 240V.

Click to expand...

Not suggesting that you do buy an Einstein, though I recently got two and they are very good. But for the sake of accuracy, the Einstein doesn't have a battery in it and is allowed to be shipped anywhere worldwide with no restrictions (not saying there are not import regulations unrelated to batteries), also they run on any voltage from 95-250VAC 50-60Hz automatically, effectively you can plug them in anywhere in the world and they just work.

But international shipping is a pain and for service or warranty they have to go back to Tennessee and the Einstein also doesn't do HSS.

As for the power output, as IMG_0001 said, the small flash GN only covers a very small area, the Godox has a much wider spread so actually puts out much more light. It is very difficult to compare flash power on specs, even when you use the same figure to do it. For instance if you compare a 1200WS Profoto to an older 2400WS Profoto in the same modifier the 1200 actually gives you one stop deeper dof because it is so much more efficient, WS refers to potential energy.

There is no accurate way of comparing flash output, there is no standard, without firing them next to each other in the same modifier. But the Godox will give you much more light output than the 600-EX-RT.

Addendum: The Godox is rated at GN 52 with a circular beam spread of 65º, the 600-EX-RT is rated at GN60 with a rectangular beam pattern of a 200mm lens, or 12º. This means the area the Godox covers is around eight times bigger. In practice I'd expect the Godox to put out a couple of stops more power than both your 600's together.

Click to expand...

Bearing in mind that 65 degrees is around 35 mm focal length and that Canon's 600EX-RT manual states GN36m at 35mm and ISO 100 and 1/1 power. Then, given Godox GN is 52m:

52/36=1.44 times the distance for the correct exposure and given the the inverse square law,:

1.44^2 = 2.

The Godox flash is then pretty much 2 stops more powerful than the Canon. So Private was pretty right.

And I think it is also good to remember that 1 more stop than a 600RT requires two 600EX-RT,
+2 stops = 4 flashes;
+3 stop = 8 flashes and so on.

Therefore a pair of those Godox flashes would be +3 stops and be roughly equivalent to 8 Canon 600EX-RT.

And then comes battery life, overheating possibilities, recycle times and so on...

Click to expand...

Thanks again. It starting to look like getting the Godox for sure. I know that for each stop I need twice as many speedlites, that's why I have two, and only two. After that it starts to become expensive and loooots of batteries.

Click to expand...

If you do so, keep us informed of how you like them. I was interested in some of the Godox products for a small home studio, but I am yet to decide if I trust the brand enough to hand them my precious beans. Still, some of their products like the bare bulb speedlight and the lithium battried speedlight appear to be relatively well perceived and the prices are very attractive.

I already have a PB820 batterypack for my speedlites and they have seen some abuse, but work as new, and it turns out I can use that pack on the 360 as well, neat stuff.

Only thing is, I saw a transmitter and receiver that allowed me to adjust power remotley, however it did not support HSS. Looks like I have to have one remote in my pocket to adjust power and another to transmitt from camera to both control power and have HSS, it seems like a pita, but hey, they're cheap.

StudentOfLight · Jul 23, 2014

Nick Gombinsky said:
Not yet for sale, Schneider has a 18mm Xenon FF Prime T2.4

It is a cine lens, but covers full frame... will cost a bit over $4000

I was typing while you you posted... LOL
I knew it was doable!!!

Antono Refa · Jul 23, 2014

Etienne said:
I'm sure the multiple benefits of high resolution (like cropping) have been listed a zillion times, so I'll skip that.

Adding more pixels will eventually hit the wall of lenses' resolving power, and I don't recall numbers being raised in those zillion times.

[I don't bother because I didn't use a lens longer than 200mm in 2&1/2 years, but bird photographers might care about that.]

Etienne said:
If you are completely satisfied with what you have, good for you, you'll save money.

I can already print about 2x as large as I want, and buying GigaPan would be cheaper than buying a new camera. And as my banker keeps saying, if I wasn't prideful, I would have gone to the same orchards as the U.S. Bureau of Engraving and Printing employees and pick me enough money to buy me a small island.

dgatwood · Jul 23, 2014

johnf3f said:
No advice - I just misread the post and it reminded me of my, then, 3 year old grand nephew running around with my 1D4 and 24-105 at Christmas a couple of years ago. The camera was as big as his chest and he found it VERY heavy! He got some cracking shots though!

Was that the lens cracking or the body?

RustyTheGeek · Jul 23, 2014

Mt Spokane Photography said:
It sounds like the rubber drying out, there are some easy fixes recommended. I've had at least five 40D's, actually, more like 7 or 8. I sold my last one this Spring. I've never seen the issue, so it does sound like a age related issue.

Ditto! I've owned four, bought 'em, used 'em and sold them to good friends who STILL use them. I finally bought the 60D years ago after the fourth 40D. I still want another one. I never quite warmed up to the 60D nearly as much as I loved the 40D. Wonderful camera. It's a beautiful mate to the Classic 5D. Ahhhh, memories.....

infared · Jul 23, 2014

In actual use...I am REALLY starting to like this lens..I can see I will be using it a whole lot more than the 16-35 f/2.8L II that I sold to buy it... 8)
The sharpness and the contrast are like the 24-70mm f/2.8l II. Very good for a zoom.

CanNotYet · Jul 23, 2014

As usual, this depends on your shooting style. Assuming your 300$ budget to be strict, these are some options:

Canon S-series
Canon SX-series (the compact line)
Canon G-series (although they normally are a bit pricier, g15 goes for 400$)
EOS-M

Then the competition:

Panasonic TZ-series
Sony HX-series (compact models)
Olympus XZ-series
Olympus TG-X series (waterproof)
FujiFilm X10 or X20

Well, those are the main suggestions. If you have used a rangefinder camera before, I would steer you towards FujiFilms excellent X10 or X20. And take your time to weigh the pros and cons.

BTW, the Olympus TG-X series is not the most common option here, but they do have bright lenses, and can be used virtally anywhere... (I've used mine filming myself and my daughter going down a water slide, try to do that with a SLR...)

e17paul · Jul 23, 2014

I am happy with my Fotodiox pro adapter for OM lenses. If outside of the US, Fotodiox have Amazon stores and will mail direct if ordered from there.

It does depend what lens you want to adapt, as previous response.

MrFotoFool · Jul 22, 2014

I bought the non-IS about a year ago, after the Sigma (100-300 f4) that I was using lost autofocus and repair parts were unavailable. Of course I would have gotten the IS2 if I could afford it, but I could not and the non-IS was a thousand bucks less. Very happy with the lens, no complaints, and the high ISO on the 5D3 is so good that I can just bump up ISO in place of using IS. (I also use a tripod often, which of course negates the need for IS).

I find it tack sharp and it is interesting to see people here say it is actually sharper than the IS version 1. Makes me glad I got the non-IS new instead of getting an IS1 used. But of course if money is not an issue than by all means you should get the IS2. For me the main advantage of the IS2 would not be the IS, but rather the closer minimum focusing distance.

JPAZ · Jul 22, 2014

It will be fine. I used the "street price" program for my 300 f/2.8 ii and it came in at a great price from an authorized dealer without a hitch.

fotonunta · Jul 22, 2014

Can't help you with comparisons but over six years ago I paid a 40% premium to get a ten year old Mk1 compared to a brand new Mk2. I made comparisons at the time I purchased it and had no regrets then and still no regrets. Now its 16+ years old and still as good as ever.

JaxPhotoBuff · Jul 21, 2014

I was happy to see that Pocketwizard has finally released a firmware update (Beta) to make the Pocketwizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 for Canon fully compatible with my 1DX (as well as the 6D and 70D). (see www.pocketwizard.com left side of the page). I'm planning to download the firmware updates and give them a try later this week.

In the meantime, I am wondering if anyone has already downloaded and tested the firmware update with the 1DX?
If so:
1. Do you get full compatibility with the AC3 controller as well?
2. What's the fastest Hypersync shutter speed you have been able to obtain?
3. Any problems identified?

I look forward to hearing from the community and to trying it out myself.

Yankeedog · Jul 21, 2014

ScottyP said:
Is white balance tricky underwater? Does it have a WB setting for that?

Briefly, yes. Light underwater is quite different from on the surface and varies with factors such as depth and water conditions, among other things.

Professional shooters use things like fancy filters to compensate. The D30 has a generic underwater setting that does pretty well for casual shooting so it's reasonable to assume any new Canon underwater point-and-shoot would also include a setting like this.

Jul 21, 2014

mackguyver said:
LOL, and if you do find it, please see how far you can take the "No limit" on my AMEX B&H would be a good place to start ;D

B&H take cash, too. Although in my experience it takes a surprising number of B&H employees to count the money and fill out the IRS paperwork when you walk in and pay for a 600/4L IS II with a stack of Benjamins. 8)

sagittariansrock · Jul 21, 2014

bseitz234 said:
Hannes said:

EF-S prime in the range 20-24mm
EF-S 50-150 f2.8 IS
200mm f2.8 IS
100-300 f4 IS
A replacement to the 22-55mm would be nice, it is a very handy focal range. 20-50 f4 IS would be ideal and would make a killer holiday lens

Click to expand...

Oh how I would love an EF-S 22mm 1.4. Or even 1.8. That would be awesome. I just can't justify the cost of the 24L, but if there were an EF-S version for $500 or $600 I'd be all over it.

I lusted after a fast lens in that range for APS-C for a long time, and the 24L was too expensive for what it offered. So I decided to go full frame. I have the 35/1.4, but even the 35/2 will give you better angle of view and depth of field than a 22/1.4.

arcanej · Jul 21, 2014

My read was that the supposed camera has a fixed - not interchangeable - lens. If the curved sensor design allows Sony to make small, high quality, fixed lens cameras for less, that seems like an interesting value proposition.

e17paul · Jul 21, 2014

I have a Pentax 55/2 on my S1A. It is arguably better than my OM 50/1.4, and certainly better than either of the Canon 50s I have bought. I think that the only EF mount that may possibly compare would be a Zeiss.

Although my copy is M42 screw mount, it's also available with the 1975 onwards K-mount
http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-K-50mm-F2-Lens.html

noisejammer · Jul 21, 2014

There's a line that says "Announced March 2013".

That makes it _so_ authoritative. :

mrsfotografie · Jul 21, 2014

gigabellone said:
I use one on a Canon 6D, and i think it's a stellar performer. Maybe i'm not as picky as other fellow forumers, but my copy didn't need AFMA, and the AF is accurate, though not fast. Bear in mind that i always take photographs of static subjects, and that i always use the central focus point.

I even did a shoot with AI Servo enabled on the 5D MkII and the keeper rate was excellent! All wide angle shots in the following series were shot like this:

http://www.mrsfotografie.nl/auto-motorsport/assen-tt-city-racing/

Steve Todd · Jul 20, 2014

Having used digital SLRs since 2005 (5D, 5D Mk II, two 1D Mk IVs, and a 1D X), I had never experienced a completely black image until late last year. In November, while shooting at Mission San Diego, I experienced one! It was on my 1D X, with a reliable flash card and in very good available light.

The image contained all of the shooting data as if it had been one of the images of the same subject both before and after the blank one? There was no fault/error code at all! So, I feel your pain! That happened at around 800 shutter actuations and has not occurred in the 3,000+ shots since.

I spoke with Canon Irvine about the experience when they performed a clean and check on my 1D X in February. Nothing was noted during the check and all has been well since. I guess the old saying "Truth is stranger than fiction" might actually apply here!

IMG_0001 · Jul 20, 2014

Intersting hackwork. I'm curious how long they'll last, these tubes are quite fragile and dust or grime on them won't do much good. Also, I'd advise to be very careful modifying a flash. Speedlites often intentionally keep the capacitor charged when turned off in order to preserve battery life. Even with the batteries removed and the test button pressed, it is possible that enough charge remain to get an unpleasent shock. I also am not a big fan of having the electrodes so easily accessible and almost shorted by the backplate... there is enough voltage on a flash tube to spark across quite a gap.

For other DIYers out there, i've found that page quite intersting as far as flashes go. Mainly the safety tips, makes you respect those small strobes.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/strbfaq.htm

Perio · Jul 20, 2014

No apologies needed, thank you for your interest in the topic. The only reason I've asked about the IS sound is to know how loud is the good fully functional copy of 100L is. I've heard it should make only very little noise. I'm sure patients don't really care about that sound, while they are having surgery in their mouth.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I'll be getting 100L and a crop body. Not sure about flash though, I may get the newest Canon MR14-EX ii ($550) or a used MR14-EX i ($400).

Vivid Color said:
Perio said:

It's always like that let me ask you a question. I've heard that normally functioning 100L should not make any sound while IS is working. Is that true? Does your copy make any sound when you try to focus? Thanks!

Vivid Color said:

Perio said:

Thanks for all your suggestions, guys! I talked to current residents today, and most of them use crop Nikon bodies with Nikon 105 micro/macro lens and a macro ring flash. Sorry for a silly question, but would 100mm L macro lens fit into a Canon's crop body, like 7d or 70d?

Please let me know if anybody has a good copy of 100L.

Click to expand...

Yes, you may put a 100 mm L macro lens on a Canon crop body.

I have a fantastically sharp copy of the 100 mm L macro but it's not for sale.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

First, I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. My copy of the 100L does make a very small sound when focusing. Whether this is the motor used for focusing or the IS, I really don't know. Would a patient hear this? Possibly to probably given their hearing. But, I would say it's a sound that isn't nearly as loud or as high pitched as the sounds of other dental equipment.

Posts

Posts

Attachments

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics