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Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS HSM Art Lens Test Chart Samples

I welcome any choices of normal zoom, as I recently bought the 6D and would like to have a normal zoom. Currently I use my 60D as the walkaround camera because I have the excellent 15-85mm. The 6D has some primes, and its "normal" lens is the Sigma 35mm f/1.4. The 24-70 f/4 IS L is intriguing due to the light weight and near-macro capacity, making it in theory a strong contender for a hiking trip lens, but I hesitate due to the high price, apparent weak performance around 50mm, and relatively short working distance at macro. I really wish that Canon would have made a new 24-105 with near-macro, the working distance would have been more reasonable.
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Got a new CF card today for my 7D

Menace said:
Richard8971 said:
I had purchased a Lexar 32GB Professional 1000X CF card a few months back and had to return it because it had gone bad. The second replacement card had also gone bad. (Both had gone bad rather quickly, within a month) I had the second one replaced and sold it. Since I still needed a card to shoot with I purchased 4 Sandisk Extreme 16GB cards for my 7D. (This is not a rant against Lexar, I simply have no idea why those 2 cards went bad. Before those and after those I have had NO issues with any other cards I own)

The Extreme cards are fantastic, but I loved how fast the Lexar card cleared the buffer on my camera. Now that Sandisk has enhanced their Extreme Pro level of cards (without raising the price), I wanted to see how the new cards worked with my 7D.

My 32GB Sandisk Extreme Pro CF card showed up today in the mail. Got a great deal on it from Adorama.

I stuck a 16 Extreme card in and shot until the buffer was full (RAW), approx. 8-9 seconds to clear.

I then put the 32GB Extreme Pro card in and did the same thing, about 4-5 seconds to clear.

Not a HUGE increase, BUT almost twice as fast and IF you are wating on your buffer to clear before you can take another shot, each second waiting can feel like an eternity. LOL

Seems like for a few more bucks (about $90 bucks for a 32GB Extreme card vs $130 for an Extreme Pro) you can have a speed boost for your 7D.

I only brought this up because, before the V2 firmware update, the 7 did not seem to be able to take advantage of the UDMA 7 standard and now, after the V2 update, it can write at the faster speeds.

Just FYI. :)

D

Having two card go back sounds like a lot of bad luck. Glad you are happy with the new Sandisk card. Personally, i've never had any issues with my Sandisk cards (touch wood!)
+1 for Sandisk cards. I never had a problem with them (5 up to now 2 X 8GB and 3 X 32GB). So it is always Sandisk for me. I don't know / don't care about other vendors.
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10D, 100D or 700D?

ereka said:
neuroanatomist said:
ereka said:
... my wife is fully involved in the decision, that doesn't help much as she doesn't really know herself what she wants.

From a feature standpoint, perhaps. But ergonomics is a big factor - if you haven't already, maybe learn from Goldilocks...take her to a camera shop to handle several options. That might help narrow down the choices...

Well, I followed your advice and took my wife to a camera shop ... she spent a few seconds looking at a 100D and 700D before losing interest and making a beeline for the CSC section ... she seemed to particularly like a Nikon 1 J2/3 with red body and matching red lens (because it was all red, her favourite colour and 'cute').

My wife and I have been married for >20 years...I've learned there are some things I can shop for, and others it's far better to let her pick on her own. ;)
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Canon S120 making funny sounds when moving it around (in automatic mode)

Mt Spokane Photography said:
As you move the camera, depending on which lens is installed, it will refocus which can make noise, and the image stabilization will try to keep the image stable. Both of these happen only after you have done a focus or are holding the shutter halfway down. They come from in the lens.

You can trace it down by turning IS off on the lens, then turn off autofocus.

The IS unit itself can move and rattle if the lens is shaken, even if off.

See if you can track it down by doing the two things one at a time, that will at least help you determine the source.

I have the Canon S120... I don't think I can change lens on it... either way, it's the camera right out of the box.
I don't need to hold the shutter halfway down to reproduce that sound (in auto mode), just moving the camera around will do.

I'm sorry but I'm a new to this, how can I turn off IS and AF?

Do you think this is normal?
Should all S120 model do this?

Thanks for your help!
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24 f2.8 IS or 28 f2.8 IS ???

I got the 35 f2 IS. It is a really useful lens for walking around. And f2 compared to f2.8. I do also have the 40 and 50. The 40 is really discrete and a very good lens for the money. I use it for running around in the streets. The 50 gets you closer to people from a distance and has f1.4 even though a bit soft at that aperture. With the setup you already got You should be able to cover the streets in a useful manner. If you looked for something totally different go with the 24.
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Thinking of swapping a 5d3 for a 1D4.....

i used a 1d4 for my main camera since 2010. i got a 5d3 last year. i thought the image quality was a significant enough jump that i traded the 1d4 for an additional 5d3.

i miss how fast and sturdy the 1d4 was. it is seriously built like a tank. but overall i'm happy with the switch. having two of the exact bodies makes things very easy. 6fps has been fast enough for me to get everything i need.

this is just a personal preference, but i really, really like the silent shutter mode on the 5d. the 1d4 sounds like a machine gun at weddings. now i can have two bodies that make hardly any noise.
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Best tablet for on-location preview

BoneDoc said:
Eye-fi card along with an iPad Air :).

I use the Eyefi along with a Nexus 7 and it works really well. Especially with a dual-slot camera - I write low res jpegs to the eyefi so they are nearly instantly on the tablet then drop the raws to the compact flash card.

I wouldn't use it for proofing the exposure or anything like that, but it's really nice for product photography since it works on site and you can use it to proof for composition, making sure things are square, catching reflections that aren't right.
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Review: Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS

AcutancePhotography said:
candc said:
Does weather sealing really even work on this or any other pumper/extending type zoom lens? It has to let air in somewhere.

Weathersealing is one of those concepts that is really hard to measure. There are no universally accepted metrics about the extent of weathersealing. Weathersealing does not mean weatherproof.

I take any "weathersealing" with several large grains of salt.

I don't think the Sigma 24-105 is marketed for Canon users. I think that Nikon users will be more interested in this as they don't have a simular specced lens.

+1. I hate the term "weathersealing" too. Weather-resistant or water resistent would be better. With the term weathersealing, some people assume that the lenses are airtight, which they are not.
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Sony RX100 MKII accessories?

Gino said:
Dylan777 said:
Gino said:
I'm planning on purchasing the Sony RX100 MK II, and I'm looking for some advice on a LCD screen protector and lens filter.

I'd like to purchase a LCD screen protector, and I'm considering the Giottos SP83015 LCD screen protector, which is supposed to fit the RX100, but the reviews on the B&H website state that the SP83015 does not fit the LCD screen exactly. Is there a different Giottos model number that will fit the RX100 MK II better...how about the SP8306?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/746398-REG/Giottos_SP83015_Aegis_Multi_Layer_Screen_Protector.html

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a lens filter for the RX100 MK II, or should I go without one?

Thanks

I bought the original Sony version, couldn't be happier: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/907016-REG/Sony_PCK_LM15_LCD_Protective_Cover.html

Dylan, thanks for the reply. Does the Sony LCD protector have an anti-reflective coating i.e. how does it perform on sunny days with glare/reflections?

I was leaning toward the Giottos LCD protector, because it has an anti-reflective coated, which is supposed to help cut down with the glare in sunlight.

thanks

I'm not sure it has anti-reflective, but I see fine outdoor.
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Another HSS option

On Friday I received a promotion from a local reseller for the Jinbie Discovery 600 flash, reviewed here at Lighting Rumors.
http://www.lightingrumours.com/jinbei-discovery-dc-600-review-1412
Out of curiosity I emailed them and asked if they had tested any of the Jinbei flash units for HSS capability.
To my amazement I actually got a reply, and he had done actual tests himself in response to my query.
Here's his reply:

I have taken four shots with a Jinbie Discovery 600 with a Yongnuo YN-622C HSS type wireless trigger that we stock and here are the results below straight out of Lightroom with the Meta data shown.

Shot with a 5D Mkiii quick and crusty (sorry) anyway, the first shot is 1/4 second no flash, 2nd shot 1/200 of a second (technically the actual flash sync of the camera), 3rd shot is 1/500 and the last is 1/8000. All synced fine as you can see :-)

I did these four shots on 600 ws, and 400 ws settings and turned the 400 ws setting down 5 stops which is technically 12.5 watt seconds and it still synced at 1/8000. If i put the flash in the second socket which is 200ws it did not work as the flash duration is obviously becoming too slow, I think it would only handle 1/500 before sync issues.


So it's clear that we can add the Jinbeis to the HSS-capable studio-flash list, along with the Elinchrom D-Lite RX4. Good! Personally I'll probably pick up the Elinchroms for the HSS function. I know that they'll deliver HSS with Photix Odins, but has anyone successfully achieved HSS with the D-Lites with the Yongnuo YN-622C which I already have.

FWIW I have had a previously excellent experience with Jinbie flash gear. About ten years ago I bought a couple of high output Jinbie porty monos that ran off heavy lead-acid batteries (which were cheaply user-replaceable) They came with a 3 year warranty and were cheap. Zero street-cred, but they performed perfectly for years until I replaced them with Einsteins and PCB Mini-Lithium batteries. I gave them away and to my knowledge they are still going strong.

-pw

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5D Mark III USA/Canon-recognized warranties?

The three companies are all authorized Canon dealers. Generally, Canon will service any new product bought from a authorized seller, just be sure you have the receipt. They have been said to service gray market from authorized dealers as well, but right now, prices are lower on USA models.

The warranty card does not give you a warranty, its misnamed, since all it does is register you as a buyer. Canon asks for the receipt for warranty service but so far, they will service any camera within a year of sale. They have been good about that.
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SL1 or Fuji X-EX1 or Sony Nex 6?? Would like your thoughts

I have shot a 5DII for the past four years. My backup was a 40D which I recently sold to a friend. I wanted to replace my crop camera but wanted something smaller. I had tried a NEX 5N but hated wading through menus. When I picked up the Fuji X-E1 and played with the controls I thought "this might work." There's a dial for almost everything you need for spontaneous shooting. Set the menus when you first set off to shoot and most everything can be adjusted in field with the three analog-type dials. So old-school, it feels very comfortable. And the size was perfect! When I looked at the first out-of-camera JPEGs, I was sold. They were almost as good as my full frame Canon.

I have since picked up a refurb 7D and after comparing the IQ with the Fuji, sent it back. No more noisy crop Canons for me. If I want to just take some "happy snaps" I grab the Fuji. If I have an event to shoot, it's the 5D plus/minus the Fuji. Much lighter combo than before. I can't speak to the SL1, but I've stopped looking for a CSC/mirrorless solution, because I feel I've already found it. If I had it to do all over, though, I'd definitely pick up an X-E2 for the speedier AF.
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A very attractive Powershot idea: SX1 MK2

I have an SX1 and love it dearly. Since it came out many other powershots have come out. I keep waiting, and ::sigh:: what I'd love to see may never happen. But, I think it is worth throwing out valid ideas, and here is a wish list for a SX1 Mk2.

1. A larger CMOS sensor. Not massive, but bigger.
2. The 50 times lens from the SX50, but, bigger diameter, so faster
(yes I know it means bigger and heavier, but if you had that 50x and one stop faster than the SX50 would you care?)
3. A new battery idea. Keep the proprietary battery, but shape it like 4 AA batteries. Now you would be able to put in 4 AA's in a pinch, and still enjoy the power of lithium.
4. HDR
5. Yes, keep my precious remote, but make it just a little bigger, just a little.
6. Keep the 1080p 30fps
7. Give it real threads up front for filters instead of needing an adapter.
8. Put a focusing ring on the lens for manual focusing. It could also kick in manual focusing just by turning the ring.
9. Spend a couple extra bux a camera on packaging that will protect the camera. The paper mache was split on my SX1.

Well that is a sweet wish list. But I'd like to say I'm still thanking Canon for my SX1.

tc,

Rich

New lens, Big White, if I can only get one. Which One???

You already have the 70-200 f2.8 and 300 f2.8, which can be combined with extenders very well; the 300 f2.8 with a 1.4x will yield you a hand-holdable 420 f4 with still very good IQ; the 400 2.8 will slightly better in the IQ and AF departments (plus it's a sop faster ofcourse), but not with an order of magnitude and at the expense of hand holdability.

The 200-400 will do well for your sports shooting due to its flexibility. But it will not open new focal length ranges that you do not already have covered. Have you though about a 500 f4 or 600 f4?
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Camera and Lens coming from 20 degrees outside to 70 degrees inside

Northstar said:
I live in the north where it's regularly 20 degrees (-7 celsius) this time of year, and I'm regularly moving my gear from outside to inside.

Is it really necessary to take special precautions with this temperature difference?

I'm living "semi-north" :-o but usually it's some months well below zero, even up to regular -10 celsius... and I admit that when going back into 20 celsius inside I just remove my sd card and then put my camera inside the bag, it's usually additionally wrapped with towels because I'm transporting it by bike. This lets the camera warm up slowly in the next hours... is this method careless?

The humidity inside my flat is "normal" I guess unless I happen to take a shower or cook :-) ... but much much lower than for example when going from outside to a tropical expo in the zoo, *that's* when I use a plastic bag.
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