Posts

privatebydesign · Apr 18, 2014

Don Haines said:
Don Haines said:

privatebydesign said:

There used to be a three ring set on eBay that had an 8mm and two thicker ones.

Click to expand...

I think it was 8, 15, and 30....

Click to expand...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/888030-REG/vello_ext_cem_manual_extension_tube_set.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AF-Confirm-Macro-Extension-Tube-for-CANON-EOS-EF-/370444048084?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56402f96d4

mrzero · Apr 18, 2014

Sporgon said:
It's got engaged to the 7D II

At this rate, it is going to be a "White Wedding"

David_in_Seattle · Apr 18, 2014

jaayres20 said:
I am a wedding photographer and I already have a lot of great gear that helps me do my job well. I have a 1DX, a 5D3, 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, 24-70L II, 85mm 1.2L, 50mm 1.2L, 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro, 90mm f/2.8 TS, and I just picked up the 300mm f/4L IS. I obviously have everything I need to do a good job at any wedding, however I just like to buy gear and get the best I can as long as I can justify buying it. Sure it would be really nice to have the 400mm f/2.8 for when I am stuck in the balcony of the church but I can't justify the price of the lens for that reason.

I am so close to buying the 200mm f/2 but I am actually having a hard time justifying the price. I have looked into it so much and I know it is superb, but will it be worth the $6000? I don't know? I love to shoot wide open and I love lens compression. I shoot with the 85 at 1.2 always and I try to stand back and use my 70-200 at 200mm or sometimes I even use the 300mm for portraits.

I also like the 300mm for when I am stuck in the back of the church during ceremonies, but I would probably have to sell it if I picked up the 200 f/2. I am curious how the 200 f/2 would preform with the 1.4xIII or 2xIII teleconverters in terms of IQ in relation to the 300 f/4L. I am not terribly concerned about focus speed because the 300 f/4 isn't super fast and I mostly use it when everything is still.

Anyone have any thoughts? Especially those of you who use the 70-200 f/2.8L IS and the 200mm f/2. Also if by chance any of you have any knowledge on how the IQ of the 200mm f/2 with the 1.4III teleconverter relates to the 300mm f/4L?

I had a similar dilemma, though I don't shoot weddings. I was faced with the decision of the 300 f2.8 IS or the 200 f2 IS. I already had the 70-200 f2.8 IS v2 so I ended up going for the 300mm because of the additional focal length and same aperture. The 200 f2 IS is an amazing lens and if I were exclusively a fashion or portrait photographer it would definitely be on my must have list. Instead, I'm a life style & travel photographer and the added focal length of the 300mm made photographing things in a helicopter or tour bus much easier. Sure, I could probably added a teleconverter to the 200 for added range, but the same is true with the 300.

Ultimately I ended up purchasing the 300mm f2.8 first...then a couple years later I bought the 200m f.2 because I started doing more portraiture outside of my day job.

Mantadude · Apr 18, 2014

expatinasia said:
Mantadude said:

expatinasia said:

Beneath the surface of our oceans.

Very nice. May I ask, how or where did you get the beginning shots of the earth? Looks like Google Earth but wanted to ask, if it is Google Earth are we allowed to use those images?

Click to expand...

Hello,
Thanks for watching it. It isn't google earth. These are timelapses from the ISS. You can find them here:
http://eol.jsc.nasa.gov/Videos/CrewEarthObservationsVideos/

They do allow you to use them, as long as you give them credit, as you will see in my credits.

Dustin

Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing, Dustin. I had no idea that even existed. Great to know. Thanks.

No problem. It is pretty cool that they let people use it.
Dustin

Cgdillan · Apr 18, 2014

Love the look of this. Nice color grading. Goof Job!

sdsr · Apr 18, 2014

After all the angst about whose 50mm primes are trash, this might amuse (sorry if it's already been posted somewhere, but if it was I couldn't find it). The fact that it's about Nikon is neither here nor there, though I guess some may want to complain about that, too....

http://photographylife.com/question-18-300mm-lenses-part-deux

notapro · Apr 18, 2014

I am with Jim Saunders in thinking it would be useful if a low-battery status (especially that of whatever flash unit in a group would be going first) were relayed to the master display.

To decide when to do a battery change, I go by the second misfire. With a first misfire, I find myself being (hopelessly) optimistic, attributing the misfire to something (anything) other than low batteries. If I'm in error, the second misfire comes soon enough.

AcutancePhotography · Apr 18, 2014

thepancakeman said:
Interesting! Is there any requirement for registering as a master level tradesman, or is it just different paperwork and/or more money?

That I don't know. I just spend 5 minutes on the Internets Tubes pulling the Islandic law documents.

I am not a lawyer in real life, but on TV I play a guy who knows not to believe any uncited entry on Wikipedia... especially when it simply does not make sense. ;D

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 18, 2014

First, the ratings only apply to a specific camera body. Certainly not across brands.

People tend to look at the numbers but misunderstand what they mean. They are forever comparing ratings from one brand to another, a 12mp camera rating to a 32mp rating. The DXO ratings cannot be used that way.

Sharpness (Acuity) is far from the only quality of a lens, in fact, most lens reviewers measure contrast (MTF). DXO's score, unfortunately does not tell us a lot about a lens, and it is not a measure of sharpness. Certainly acuity and MTF are factored into their score, but it is incorrect to use the DXO overall number and say that represents sharpness.

What factors in to their rating? - They say:

"
The DxOMark Score considers the overall performance of a lens plus its performance when used with a specific camera body.

The Optical Metric Scores consider the classical or standard measurements used to rate the performance of a lens, such as sharpness, distortion, vignetting, transmission and chromatic aberration."

Do they measure coma
What about Autofocus accuracy or speed
What about IS

Their is a lot of improvement that needs to be done in their ratings, several times they have been called out for totally wrong ratings, and after defending them, they silently updated them to correct them.

I would not put much if any value in their ratings, since they seem to be unreliable, and use undisclosed weightings that often do not seem to match the real world values that other reviewers take into account.

Dylan777 · Apr 18, 2014

Love the look from both lenses: 200 + 400. Awesome. Thanks for sharing dolina

dolina said:
Here's the black & white in color.

2014 Alabang Country Club Chairman's Cup by 500px.com/dolina, on Flickr

ƒ/2.0
200.0 mm
1/1000
100
Off, did not fire
Aperture-priority AE

Rudeofus · Apr 18, 2014

mackguyver said:
It looks like they measure it across the frame, and they don't mention vignette compensation:

That would explain why a slow IS zoom like the 24-70 F/4 IS has T=4 whereas all fast lenses have T stop significantly above their largest aperture. In other words, this T stop number is a poor substitute for their vignetting number and as such should be considered most useless.

Very confused ...

Andrew Davies Photography · Apr 18, 2014

privatebydesign said:
The trouble with umbrellas is a total lack of control on where the light goes. I think most beginners, particularly in smaller spaces, are far better off starting out with a cheapo Chinese softbox with grid kit, something like this. It is far easier to understand and control what is going on if you have more directional control.

For a starter kit I'd recommend two speedlites, something like these and a trigger. They are manual only, well priced but radio triggered so no cables.

I wouldn't worry about a backdrop, after watching a million videos on YouTube you will realise you can do a lot of that with the lights.

Watch stuff like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WTWiN9kLts They have a huge range of very good videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNGiOpWEKxQ This guy has a great channel and really can use small shoot through umbrellas as well as anybody I have ever seen!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91gU93J2Q8k This guy also has a fantastic range of videos and covers both white and black backgrounds with light.
And I really like this, though I'd argue the 16 looks! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zZBD6EMB1k

As for what modifiers are the best, well it totally depends on what you want to shoot and the look you want. Shoot throughs will give the broadest light, excellent for groups and real estate, reflector umbrellas will give you more control, though not much unless collapsed, but they are very versatile. Soft boxes are "best" for mood and control of what, exactly, is going to be illuminated, stylish portraits are easiest and quickest to do with a gridded softbox.

Some brilliant links there thanks for taking the time to post them really helpful.

www.andrew-davies.com

Dylan777 · Apr 18, 2014

unfocused said:
Standard warning here: Speedlites are gateway drugs. If you don't watch yourself, you'll wake up one morning with five 600 RTs next to you in bed and you won't remember how you got there.

....Although I haven't own any speedlites yet, however, I do understand your concept in my L lens situation ;D

traingineer · Apr 17, 2014

eml58 said:
I own a Ferrari FF 2012 Model

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) Cool.

emko · Apr 17, 2014

Re: Canon Announces the EOS-1D W: The Professional DSLR Designed Specifically for Wildlife Photograp

what's the buffer like? imagine you can do 24fps at 39MP and turn that into some high resolution video.

SGS · Apr 17, 2014

neuroanatomist said:
SGS said:

Sorry, but i do not fully understand your following statement "It's not sending a white balance per se" In short, does it send WB info to camera if flash is set to M or not?

Click to expand...

No matter how the Canon flash is set, it will transmit information about the color temperature of the flash tube to the camera. The camera is going to set a white balance automatically based on the scene, if set to auto. It will use the color temperature of the flash to help make that calculation.

Thank you very much for your help

Damn it i was really thinking of taking it to service.. I wish they would make a option to turn WB communication with camera - that would save lots of time in pp shoting indoors.. not for me only i think

Becouse .. yes, i can adjust warmth in K, but damn YN with no communication gets it just RIGHT

mackguyver · Apr 17, 2014

mackguyver said:
Look at these photos on 500px if you think I'm crazy.

I just ran this search while being logged into 500px and the results are very different and definitely NSFW :-[.

I hope I didn't get anyone in trouble

canonrumorstony · Apr 17, 2014

Vivid Color said:
Does anyone on this forum have experience with Kenko's mc4 model?

Sure, have a look at this Spotted Towhee shot:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1233294/1

canon1dxman · Apr 17, 2014

Thanks for the replies guys. I tried 3 cards, all the same. I will try to format one on the computer shortly.

Don Haines · Apr 17, 2014

bholliman said:
My recommendations would be the EF-S 15-85 and EF-S 10-22 and maybe a fast prime like the 35mm f2 IS for low light or shallow DOF shots. When I had a 550D and 7D, I had both lenses and used the 15-85 for the vast majority of my landscape and other outdoor or flash photography. Its a terrific lens. I borrowed a friends 17-55 2.8 quite a bit and loved it, very sharp and f/2.8 came in handy for lower light photography. To me its focal range was just too limited compared with the 15-85 however. For most landscape photography the wider aperture of the 17-55 will not come into play.

The 10-22 is a really good UWA and I'm sure you will have plenty of opportunities when it will be useful. My oldest son (age 15) and I do a lot of 3-4 day hikes (nothing like your 221 mile adventure however) and I took the 15-85 and 10-22 on most of them and really felt I had everything covered. A few times I wished I had more reach for wildlife, but otherwise these lenses covered 99% of what I wanted to shoot.

I agree with NancyP and Don on the extra batteries and SD cards! A small, really light weight tripod would also come in handy.

Don Haines said:

If you do stay with a crop camera, the 17-55 is a better lens for landscape than the 15-85. It is faster and it is sharper on the wide end....

Click to expand...

Sharpness looks pretty close to me in the TDP crops at f/4 and f/8. However, the 17-55 does control distortion better.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=675&Camera=736&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=1&LensComp=398&CameraComp=474&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=1

When I did my comparison of the 17-55 and the 15-85, I observed that the sharpness was a bit better on the wide end of the 17-55 and was a bit better on the long end of the 15-85. The differences were noticeable if you looked closely, and in the long run, I would call it a tie... one a bit better wide, one a bit better long... It was the faster lens that won out in the final decision as I would be using it at sunrises and sunsets, and also in some poorly lit areas...

Ultimately, you can't go wrong with either lens.....

skullyspice · Apr 17, 2014

mackguyver · Apr 17, 2014

Just saw the updates to this thread - great photos privatebydesign (the hot air balloon and terminal shots in particular) and now you and Tex have me thinking more about the fisheye. I had planned to buy the 15 2.8 but Canon stopped selling it...and the new L isn't exactly cheap. I think I'll try a CPS loan to see how I like it.

mackguyver · Apr 17, 2014

MTL18 said:
Thanks for all the replies. I tried both and bought the Sigma. It was heavier, but the metal construction and internal movements justified the weight. I really liked that the lens didn't expand/shrink as zoom changed, and the image quality was excellent.

So far I am very impressed with the colours in the pictures. They appear so bright, vivid, and crisp. I'll learn more over time but so far so good!

MTL18, welcome to CR and congrats on the new lens. It looks like quite a package from what I've seen. There are lots of photo threads on this forum and people are positive and friendly with feedback 99% of the time, so we'd love to see your work as you start using the new lens.

bornshooter · Apr 17, 2014

eml58 said:
bornshooter said:

These are all nearly 100%crops with the 2xIII and 1dx.

Click to expand...

Ummmm, Bornshooter, these are real "Birds".

From you ?? Real Birds ??

I know edward but these birds do not complain haha

GMCPhotographics · Apr 17, 2014

StudentOfLight said:
GMCPhotographics said:

9VIII said:

The trick here is you have to realize that optical designers can do very funny things with focal length, like making an 800mm lens that's only 461mm long, or "retrofocusing" design with an effective focal length that exists entirely outside the lens.
The "focal length divided by aperture" rule is true, but the definition of focal length is more than meets the eye.

I'm sure the video guys here would point out we would all be better off using T-stop anyway.

Click to expand...

The word "telephoto" indicates that a lens' focal length is longer than it's physical length. So a 135L is a telephoto lens, but a 85L isn't. Many photographer's assume that a "tele" indicates a longer focal length, but it doesn't. It is possible to have a fairly wide telephoto lens.

Click to expand...

I learnt something today. So the 40mm pancake is in fact a telephoto lens. Who knew?

Yup! While the 50mm f1.4 USM isn't a telephoto either!

Posts

Posts

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics