Another for the anything shot with element.

Dylan777 said:

I like this photo surapon

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Thanks, Dear Dylan.
That is my front door Neighbor's Home in the late evening at golden hour.
Have a great work week .
Surapon

Mantadude said:

sanj said:

Well done!! Tell us more:
1. Tripod???
2. How did you manage to catch the moment?
3. Where?
4. How?
5. Which?
6. When?

Want to know it all.... Very impressed.

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Thanks for watching and your interest.
I used the xit404 tripod. It was at the end of a dive, and was filming the marionia, by an outcropping of coral. This was in Anilao, Philippines in March 2013, and it was almost dark when I surfaced. I was using a 100mm macro lens with my canon 5d ii. I also used a subsee +10 wet flip on diopter on some of the shots.

Dustin

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Thanks Dustin.

Of bit off topic but suppose this lens cannot be repaired, would you then buy it again?
Or could you go for the 17-40 due to the lower price?

Gino said:

Dylan777 said:

Gino said:

I'm planning on purchasing the Sony RX100 MK II, and I'm looking for some advice on a LCD screen protector and lens filter.

I'd like to purchase a LCD screen protector, and I'm considering the Giottos SP83015 LCD screen protector, which is supposed to fit the RX100, but the reviews on the B&H website state that the SP83015 does not fit the LCD screen exactly. Is there a different Giottos model number that will fit the RX100 MK II better...how about the SP8306?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/746398-REG/Giottos_SP83015_Aegis_Multi_Layer_Screen_Protector.html

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a lens filter for the RX100 MK II, or should I go without one?

Thanks

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I bought the original Sony version, couldn't be happier: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/907016-REG/Sony_PCK_LM15_LCD_Protective_Cover.html

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Dylan, thanks for the reply. Does the Sony LCD protector have an anti-reflective coating i.e. how does it perform on sunny days with glare/reflections?

I was leaning toward the Giottos LCD protector, because it has an anti-reflective coated, which is supposed to help cut down with the glare in sunlight.

thanks

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I'm not sure it has anti-reflective, but I see fine outdoor.

Google it. Screw mount, no aperture control/fixed aperture. Used for x-ray and other medical imaging equipment. Maybe a frankenlens candidate.

On Friday I received a promotion from a local reseller for the Jinbie Discovery 600 flash, reviewed here at Lighting Rumors.
http://www.lightingrumours.com/jinbei-discovery-dc-600-review-1412
Out of curiosity I emailed them and asked if they had tested any of the Jinbei flash units for HSS capability.
To my amazement I actually got a reply, and he had done actual tests himself in response to my query.
Here's his reply:

I have taken four shots with a Jinbie Discovery 600 with a Yongnuo YN-622C HSS type wireless trigger that we stock and here are the results below straight out of Lightroom with the Meta data shown.

Shot with a 5D Mkiii quick and crusty (sorry) anyway, the first shot is 1/4 second no flash, 2nd shot 1/200 of a second (technically the actual flash sync of the camera), 3rd shot is 1/500 and the last is 1/8000. All synced fine as you can see

I did these four shots on 600 ws, and 400 ws settings and turned the 400 ws setting down 5 stops which is technically 12.5 watt seconds and it still synced at 1/8000. If i put the flash in the second socket which is 200ws it did not work as the flash duration is obviously becoming too slow, I think it would only handle 1/500 before sync issues.

So it's clear that we can add the Jinbeis to the HSS-capable studio-flash list, along with the Elinchrom D-Lite RX4. Good! Personally I'll probably pick up the Elinchroms for the HSS function. I know that they'll deliver HSS with Photix Odins, but has anyone successfully achieved HSS with the D-Lites with the Yongnuo YN-622C which I already have.

FWIW I have had a previously excellent experience with Jinbie flash gear. About ten years ago I bought a couple of high output Jinbie porty monos that ran off heavy lead-acid batteries (which were cheaply user-replaceable) They came with a 3 year warranty and were cheap. Zero street-cred, but they performed perfectly for years until I replaced them with Einsteins and PCB Mini-Lithium batteries. I gave them away and to my knowledge they are still going strong.

-pw

The three companies are all authorized Canon dealers. Generally, Canon will service any new product bought from a authorized seller, just be sure you have the receipt. They have been said to service gray market from authorized dealers as well, but right now, prices are lower on USA models.

The warranty card does not give you a warranty, its misnamed, since all it does is register you as a buyer. Canon asks for the receipt for warranty service but so far, they will service any camera within a year of sale. They have been good about that.

So, I have been a long time Canon Camcorder user, Canon Elura-100, Canon GL2, Canon HV40, and now I finally have entered into the world of DSLR video production. I have been impressed so far with this camera, and I am excited to master it. I have been using my Canon HV40 to film my little cooking show on Youtube, but now the Canon 70D adds to the creative possibilities. I used the 18-135mm STM lens. I can't wait for my Canon 1.4 50mm USM lens to get here.

Check out the video!
How to Make the Best Ham and Potato Soup for Cheap!

dak723 said:

It took me 3 tries to get a 6D that exposed properly!

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What was wrong with your 6d - was the exposure completely broken, or were the problems more subtle?

I have shot a 5DII for the past four years. My backup was a 40D which I recently sold to a friend. I wanted to replace my crop camera but wanted something smaller. I had tried a NEX 5N but hated wading through menus. When I picked up the Fuji X-E1 and played with the controls I thought "this might work." There's a dial for almost everything you need for spontaneous shooting. Set the menus when you first set off to shoot and most everything can be adjusted in field with the three analog-type dials. So old-school, it feels very comfortable. And the size was perfect! When I looked at the first out-of-camera JPEGs, I was sold. They were almost as good as my full frame Canon.

I have since picked up a refurb 7D and after comparing the IQ with the Fuji, sent it back. No more noisy crop Canons for me. If I want to just take some "happy snaps" I grab the Fuji. If I have an event to shoot, it's the 5D plus/minus the Fuji. Much lighter combo than before. I can't speak to the SL1, but I've stopped looking for a CSC/mirrorless solution, because I feel I've already found it. If I had it to do all over, though, I'd definitely pick up an X-E2 for the speedier AF.

I have an SX1 and love it dearly. Since it came out many other powershots have come out. I keep waiting, and ::sigh:: what I'd love to see may never happen. But, I think it is worth throwing out valid ideas, and here is a wish list for a SX1 Mk2.

1. A larger CMOS sensor. Not massive, but bigger.
2. The 50 times lens from the SX50, but, bigger diameter, so faster
(yes I know it means bigger and heavier, but if you had that 50x and one stop faster than the SX50 would you care?)
3. A new battery idea. Keep the proprietary battery, but shape it like 4 AA batteries. Now you would be able to put in 4 AA's in a pinch, and still enjoy the power of lithium.
4. HDR
5. Yes, keep my precious remote, but make it just a little bigger, just a little.
6. Keep the 1080p 30fps
7. Give it real threads up front for filters instead of needing an adapter.
8. Put a focusing ring on the lens for manual focusing. It could also kick in manual focusing just by turning the ring.
9. Spend a couple extra bux a camera on packaging that will protect the camera. The paper mache was split on my SX1.

Well that is a sweet wish list. But I'd like to say I'm still thanking Canon for my SX1.

tc,

Rich

I didn't actually raise sharpness, so it's interesting. I might have to check again what's going on. It might be due to the difference in converting RAW to JPEG though. I will have to research on this more...

You already have the 70-200 f2.8 and 300 f2.8, which can be combined with extenders very well; the 300 f2.8 with a 1.4x will yield you a hand-holdable 420 f4 with still very good IQ; the 400 2.8 will slightly better in the IQ and AF departments (plus it's a sop faster ofcourse), but not with an order of magnitude and at the expense of hand holdability.

The 200-400 will do well for your sports shooting due to its flexibility. But it will not open new focal length ranges that you do not already have covered. Have you though about a 500 f4 or 600 f4?

Northstar said:

I live in the north where it's regularly 20 degrees (-7 celsius) this time of year, and I'm regularly moving my gear from outside to inside.

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Is it really necessary to take special precautions with this temperature difference?

I'm living "semi-north" :-o but usually it's some months well below zero, even up to regular -10 celsius... and I admit that when going back into 20 celsius inside I just remove my sd card and then put my camera inside the bag, it's usually additionally wrapped with towels because I'm transporting it by bike. This lets the camera warm up slowly in the next hours... is this method careless?

The humidity inside my flat is "normal" I guess unless I happen to take a shower or cook ... but much much lower than for example when going from outside to a tropical expo in the zoo, *that's* when I use a plastic bag.

Click said:

Very nice Petach. Lovely B&W.

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cheers

Re: Tamron 150-500mm f/5-6.3 VC on Thursday

9VIII said:

While I really doubt this will outperform the 400f5.6+1.4xTC, having autofocus at that focal length would be nice, even if it isn't good enough to track a bird.

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It would surprise me if the centre 1/3 of the Tamron frame at 600mm when stopped down to F8 is at least as sharp as the 400f5.6+TC @ F8. We are now comparing a 20 year old prime + TC to a current zoom. Lens technology has changed over the past 20 years.

You also gain IS and AF with the Tamron.

I made this shot with 70D and 100-400L (I don't own 70D, though):

AF Servo, f/5.6, 1/1000, ISO 500

Hubby and I make an annual trip (pilgrimage) to Crescent Heads a surf spot north coast, NSW Australia. Not much around except school vacation time.
This year we stayed two weeks, two long weeks of nil surf he was a bit grumpy, but I spent countless hours on top of the rocky headland watching
for humpback Whales and saw dozens while I waited for them to show there was a Sea Eagle family to watch for, if I did not have a reasonable lens on my
camera I would have not seen as much of these wonderful animals. One look at these photos and I am right back on the headland salt breeze in my face.
Memory still works

ryllz75 said:

All thanks so much for all of your feedback....! I truly appreciate and will end up keeping the 70-200 2.8 MK II.

another quick question.. since I have the Sigma35 1.4 and Canon 50 1.2.. Do you guys think that selling off the 50 1.2 and replacing it with the 85mm 1.2 is a worthwhile move? Again the sole purpose of wanting the 85mm 1.2 is for portraiture... im thinking that the 35mm and 50mm is so close FL wise that i can probably lose the 50mm and replace it with the 85mm. Again if you have experience on both would love to hear from you!

As for the sigma 35mm 1.4, i just got that a month ago and crazy in love with it. It actually has been my lens of choice for environmental portraiture..

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It depends. The 50L is a lens for 50mm freaks and the 85LII will suit better for portraits. I tend to find 85mm still to short for a tight portrait and too long for a wider portrait.

puntti said:

It's definitely not firmware. CreationHeart did you notice any symptoms similar to this before it died? https://vimeo.com/76656998

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i have not noticed any errors prior it's just a one off silent death. After heart surgery with a donated heart from japan my 1Dx is surviving fine now.

this will be an amazing lens for low light photogs, will be available in eos m mount + fuji-x and others!

http://www.fujirumors.com/worlds-fastest-lens-for-fuji-x-mount-announced-the-ibelux-f0-85/

http://kipon.com/en/articledetail.asp?id=60

Well at infinity in the mid-ranges it's not extreme corners and not even close to ok. If one wants to save the corners with this one it seems you'll have to focus a bit past center's infinity and sacrifice the middle some. Here is a 50mm example at F4.

100% crops. Number 1 is from the center and 2 with it reframed to the upper left corner....so that closer tree is actually even further out in the frame. Yet once it is in the corner the closer tree gets better as the further stuff goes to hell. The field curvature is just bending back towards the camera a good bit. Does it both sides like that and from other reading it sounds like just design related.

http://www.extremeinstability.com/1.jpg
http://www.extremeinstability.com/2.jpg

But again, on number 2 that is the furthest upper left corner. The tree is pretty dang great for extreme corner, but alas infinity areas have gone to hell out there. If you focus using the corner out there you can pull them in good but you then sacrifice the middle sharpness.

Starting to think this lens isn't out of whack and that is just how it is using it at infinity.

More talk on it here: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52164436 THink that was the place I saw someone setting their afma purposely off a hair to help the corners.

mackguyver said:

$2,080, but wow f/0.85 - check it out:
http://kipon.com/en/articledetail.asp?id=60

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Thank you very much, Dear mackguyver
Sound great, But we must wait next 5 Years for MK III improvement ( For $ 2,000+)---But If the Chinese people sell for 600 to 800 US Dollars at Amazon, That will fly off the Shelves like Hot Cake.
Have a great weekend.
Surapon

fantastic Neuro!, Thanks!