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rmfagan · Nov 15, 2013

Few more...

ecka · Nov 15, 2013

Ruined said:
I think this answer is a bit more complex than simply answering "body vs lens".

If you are talking about a Canon 70D with a 50mm f/1.8 vs. a Canon T3i with a 50mm f/1.2L , then the answer will be LENS.

But, if you are talking about a Canon T3i with a 50mm f/1.2L vs a Canon 6D with a 85mm f/1.8, then the answer will be BODY.

While the LENS has a huge impact, so does the BODY. But, the biggest impact the body has is FULL FRAME vs CROP. So, you are probably better upgrading the LENS instead of upgrading to another crop body. But if you are moving to FULL FRAME, you may get superior image quality by upgrading the BODY instead of the lens.

+1

Been there, done that. No more crops for me. Basically speaking, FF+zoom ~ APSC+prime, but FF+prime level is unreachable for crops. Maybe the new Sigma 18-35/1.8 on crop is close to f/2.8 zoom on FF (still not as good), but it's size (as big and heavy as 24-70LII) and price ($900) puts things back in their places. No free candy there.
On the other hand, any decent modern lens can produce decent quality images. The new EF-S 55-250/4-5.6 IS STM is considerably better and cheaper than the older EF 70-300/4-5.6 IS USM and, in many cases, it's not bad enough for upgrading to 70-300L.
IMHO, upgrading is not about mixing priorities, "FF vs better lenses" is like "bees vs honey", they should go together. Every L lens deserves a FF body

. Size matters, specially in physics. Bigger sensor will always give you more ... , due to either bigger pixel size or their quantity.

wopbv4 · Nov 15, 2013

Hi, it took me sometime to find this as well:
Custom menu settings , second tab, AE Microadjustment, see manual page ~329.

After you have set it, it will be confirmed in the "info settings" on the lcd, so press the info several times until you look at the window that starts with WB shift,
Then look at
third row down is says AE +/_ "value you have set it at"

Hope this helps

Ben

Nov 15, 2013

My Fiat Panda 4x4 review.

Wanted to use an alternate opening shot as I wasn't happy with the light (sun flare, or reflection from building) or level of traffic noise, however Presenter wasn't happy with appearance in my preferred take (UWA lenses can do that) Otherwise I'd stand up in court and defend this quite happily.. Quite a cool wee car, I know the yanks just won't get it at all.

http://youtu.be/RMy4zmuVdZQ

petach · Nov 15, 2013

pelebel said:
I don't like the focus, but I like the composition. The image itself, too.

You mean it looks soft? Most of my shots (hand held) are like that. Parkinson's and photography are not happy bedfellows, even fast shutter doesn't seem to help much......especially with small cameras. The smaller and lighter they are, the more motor function is needed to finesse it. It is rapidly progressing and it won't be long before street work becomes impossible hand held. Thanks for stopping by to comment, appreciate it very much.

Pete

petach said:

6D + 17-40L

Chinatown - Street by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

Click to expand...

Methodical · Nov 15, 2013

I say cut it loose now or wait until after the holidays to see if fierce competition continues. Price it right and in different forums at the same time and it will sell. If you do sell, do when while Canon doesn't have any deals on them. I recently sold mine for $650 and there was a lot of competition out there from the used market, kit lens sales and Canon refurbs and 15% off deals. Mine was in pristine condition though. I ate the shipping and paypal fees to sweeten the deal. I also sold the 200 2.8 and 50 1.8. The 50 went fast, but the 200 took a couple weeks or so to sell. The competition is fierce this time of year though.

vlad · Nov 15, 2013

Love this lens. Focus isn't ultra fast, but works fine for most scenarios. Quality at 1.4 is quite good. Bokeh is lovely. I haven't used the Canon 50 1.4 and really don't have much curiosity about it

mkabi · Nov 14, 2013

Mt Spokane Photography said:
mkabi said:

Why ask here, instead of google? or any other search engine? What compelled you to ask this question here? And are there any follow up questions?

Click to expand...

Probably not, since he asked almost a year ago.

lol... I didn't even look at the date, I never do...
Who keeps reviving old topics?

digitalpuppy · Nov 14, 2013

It's been a few days since this update has hit the streets. Do those who have upgraded to 1.2.3 have any more data to report? I was going to do the update in the next day or so unless people were having overtly negative experiences.

Can anyone chime in with their experiences with 1.2.3 after a couple of weeks of use?

Aglet · Nov 14, 2013

Once again, evolutionary improvements on an already good Nikon consumer series body leave competitors behind in many metrics.. and price.

One of these is on my xmas list. 2 more if it performs really well.

They seem to have changed the grip to body spacing a little from previous models, I hope it's still comfortable to hold like the 5100/5200.
WiFi and GPS abilities, + 1080P at 60fps will be features useful to some.

serendipidy · Nov 14, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Eldar said:

I had Gitzo heads (still have actually, because nobody wants to buy them), but gave up. Replaced them with RRS and the only thing that irritates me is that I didn´t buy the right thing in the first place.

Click to expand...

Indeed. I have two ballheads, a monopod head, and a gimbal head from RRS, and all are top notch. As for RRS being conservative in their support ratings, this is their TQC-14 travel tripod, which is rated at 25 lbs.

I don't know how much RRS owner Joe (pictured above) weighs, but I'm 180 lbs and couldn't resist trying that when I got my TQC-14. There was a little flex in the legs, but only a little (nd those legs are far less robust than those on my TVC-33).

That's pretty convincing.

sandymandy · Nov 14, 2013

well...

StudentOfLight · Nov 14, 2013

dolina said:
35/1.4, 135/2, 180/3.5 Macro, 200/2.8 and 400/5.6 are prime candidates for an update.

I agree that these are the prime suspects. Canon is definitely losing sales to Sigma's 35mm.

Just as a side note, here are my three dream primes:
EF 105mm f/1.4 L IS
EF 200mm f/2.8 L IS Macro
TS-E 90mm f/2.8 L II

Rienzphotoz · Nov 14, 2013

Zv said:
Rienzphotoz said:

"Kiss X7", sounds and looks a bit too kinky, for my taste.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, as I live in Japan I had to buy a Kiss X4 as my first DSLR. I always referred to it as a T2i or 550D. Eventually had to man up and get a 7D!

I've never been one for taping a camera up but if I were to start it would be to hide that ridiculous name.

I always wondered about that name coz, I have many Japanese colleagues in my office and my immediate boss is Japanese (so were my 2 previous bosses before him) but none of them seem the kind who like such mushy/girly names .... but do the Japanese, in Japan, prefer "Kiss X" whatever instead of say 700D or 100D etc? (for that matter I don't get why the american versions are called "t5i" "sl1" etc (those names also sound a bi weird), I mean they have 5D, 7D, 70D etc and then suddenly the entry level DSLR's are named with strange robotic sounding names ... what's up with that!

JVLphoto · Nov 14, 2013

7enderbender said:
Zv said:

Or .... ND filter and add more flash power? Not ideal but certainly a cheaper solution to the sync speed conundrum.

I mean really? Medium format just to get faster sync?

Just buy a fuji x100s and be done with it.

Click to expand...

I'm over-complicating, am I? Again.

Would love to have the Fuji and not just for that reason.

I'll go the Medium format leaf shutter any day... if money grew on trees and I had a forest.

chris_w_digits · Nov 14, 2013

I shoot a lot of bands and musicians under stage lighting, but sometimes the stage lighting is in a constantly flashing or changing mode. I'd imagine that the types of shooting you're doing would be more like trying to get pictures of the crowd away from the stage lights, which is harder. I find that with my 5D3, with the performers themselves, just using the center focus point with 1/160 shutter speed works wonderfully. I run my lens wide open and put what I want it to focus on in the center and that works quite reliably, even when the performers are moving around. It breaks down when they're doing a lot of quick movement but backing off and getting a wider shot helps it a lot. A lot of my photos are facial close-ups of the performers while performing, and head and guitar shots, taken with the 70-200mm f/2.8L run wide open. The 1/160 freezes the performers unless there is something in fast motion and it gives that part a nice visible motion blur (drumsticks are a great example, and hair flying in a "headbanging" motion).

When there's not hardly any light hitting the people I'm wanting to photograph, the 70-200mm f/2.8L doesn't give good results and I often switch to the Sigma 85mm f/1.4. If it will autofocus, the results are a good bit better due to 4 times the light being captured. That's the problem, though -- if the light is too low, autofocus breaks down (it's slower anyway with that lens) and my vision isn't good enough to focus through the viewfinder (heck, I can't even see and detail what I'm shooting through the viewfinder if it's too dim to autofocus in a lot of cases). The 135 f/2L is a fast autofocusing lens and sometimes works well in dim light, and has allowed me to shoot in dim light and get decent results. In once case in a parking lot (outdoor show), it was the only lens that would work for me since I had no flash. The 50mm f/1.4 is another choice but it just can't seem to focus sharply in a reliable way with autofocus, plus it's a bit wider shot than I usually take. Take a lot of extras to be sure you get some in focus if you use that one.

The only good way to get good photos in your case may be to use the Speedlight flash units. If the venue is going to be dimly lit, like the venue I shoot in was for Halloween, I'll carry 2 Speedlights and the transmitter and bounce the light off the ceiling. The indirect light avoids redeye and harsh shadows and doesn't blind people so badly. If your venue doesn't tolerate flash, then you're out of luck with that approach. Just experiment and see what works best for you.

JVLphoto · Nov 14, 2013

stein said:
why make the review when you obviously dont like the making of the lens?? this is agreat tool for 5D and 7D alike, IQ and the size makes a good travel lens!
Stein, Norway

I happen to agree with you. I had a 70D for a few weeks and the 40mm rarely left it.

globalphotobank · Nov 14, 2013

Had the 70 since June, July. The 70 is still lacking in many ways, such as headphone jack, HDR RAW (like the Pentax K3), focus peaking for use with manual lenses and 2.5 or even 4k. Even other companies are doing so via firmware updates. I think I may be getting board of my Canons, as much as I love them, others have more. Take the new Panasonic G4 for instance have you seen some of the specks, All I have to say is DrOOOOOOOOL! I would be content with the Canon 1D C. Possible for a year or two.

setterguy · Nov 14, 2013

Great pictures above on this post of the hawk. Attached are photo's taken of an adult with D7and Sigma 70-200 mm 2.8 DGHSM with a 1.4X multiplier. The branch that the hawk has to be 3-4 inches in diameter so this is a pretty good size bird. Hope you enjoy. Carmine

Aglet · Nov 14, 2013

I've got a few Pentax lenses that test poorly yet produce nice images so it's not always about ultimate corner-to-corner sharpness and low CA.
Still, however good this new 58mm is, I'll be hard pressed to buy it to get just a little more something from it over my old 50/1.4. UNLESS I actually need it for night photography where I need the pinpoint lights to look as crisp as they should.

sanj · Nov 14, 2013

yeSSSS!!

thx

scottkinfw · Nov 13, 2013

Imitation=flattery?

RGomezPhotos · Nov 13, 2013

Not surprised for this segment. That dual-pixel tech is quite amazing. The camera made it on Popular Photography's best for 2013. Good stuff.

RGF · Nov 13, 2013

wearle said:
I had a similar problem after receiving mine. After going through extensive testing, I felt it had to be a problem with the lens itself so I sent it to Canon in late April. It was returned a week later, and the difference was phenomenal. I'm finally getting the results I should have gotten in the first place: very sharp images and a significant increase in the number of keepers.

According to Canon, "It was found that the adjustment of the circuit board was incorrect causing inaccurate auto focus."

Before the adjustment, I was getting about 10 percent keepers. Now, I'm getting about 70 percent. The 30 percent I end up deleting are mostly repeats and/or poor technique (excitement causing vibration) with probably 30 percent of those due to an actual miss in focus. This is probably more in line with how the lens should perform.

It is possible you got the same initial guy that adjusted the circuit board on my lens.

Wade

I just got mine - have not tested it. Better do it soon.

Drizzt321 · Nov 13, 2013

It's a fantastic lens. If you're at low ISO and decent lighting the differences will probably be unnoticeable in practical terms. When you start getting up into low light and high ISO, the 6D will trump the 5d2.

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