A real good idea,thank you for the pictures.
And it gives an answer too how to fix the CP E4s without harming their cables.

Dylan777 said:

SJTstudios said:

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a new prime or two before I upgrade to a pro level body. I'm looking to get a 5d/ 6d or 70d/7d. I have a 28mm 1.8, 50mm 1.8, the 100mm l macro, and some lensbaby stuff. Anybody have some advice on primes that work well on both formats?

I've been thinking about the 135mm f2.

I like the 28 on my rebel

I like the 35mm and 50mm on ff.

But I'm lost at this point

Click to expand...

50mm f1.4 is great lens. I had this lens for years before jumping over to 50L. The copy I had was great @ f1.8 - smaller. 50mm on FF is easy to shoot.

135L is a super lens. It's sharp and AF is fast. Huge benefit for both crop and FF. Just keep the shutter speed @ 1/125 or faster.

I had bad experience with 28mm. Soft - soft and more soft

Click to expand...

+1 on the 28mm. It's soft until you stopped down a little. From 2.2 to 2.8, it just keeps on getting sharper. @2.5 or 2.8, it's IQ is very good already and much better than the 18-55 kit lens @5.6. In my experience, it's sharper than the 17-55mm head-to-head, same camera, same focal length and same aperture.

Here's the comparison from the-digital-picture lens tool.

17-55mm and 28mm @ F2.8, 60D.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=398&Camera=736&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=253&CameraComp=736&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

It's even close to the 24-70II though the CA degrades its quality. If you reduce the CA in PP, it'll be a little bit closer though of course, 24-70II is still better especially if you pixel peep.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=787&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=0&LensComp=253&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

In the US, CPS offers similar service. I am okay shipping my equipment back and forth (though I often insure a $1,000 or 1,500 when shipping bodies to be cleaned) - since I believe my all risk rider would cover this. I guess I should call my agent to be sure.

Of greater concern is when I borrow equipment, then (the few times I have done this) I insure the lens or body for replacement cost. WHich according to CPS is much above the street price.

Probably because it wouldn't sell.
Ricoh has had a wonderful camera on the market for the last several years where you buy the "body"
and a "lens/sensor" combination that is interchangeable. Ever seen one? That's why!

You are welcome, dear friend , Pedro.
Here more Photos of The beautiful SIN CITY , in USA, Las Vegas in the night time.
Enjoy
Surapon

Vivid Color said:

Dukinald said:

Vivid Color said:

I just ordered Canon's 100L Macro lens at Best Buy for $899.99 plus tax. Assuming I get the rebate, the effective price will be $803. So, at the time of my order, 2:15pm Eastern Time in the U.S., the price mistake had not been fixed.

Click to expand...

I also ordered a 100L but I made it as store pick up. Now I'm thinking I should have let them ship it direct to me so they won't have time to rescind the price (crossing my fingers).

Click to expand...

I had my order shipped to the store as well. I have a receipt with the order price and I assume you do too. I think it would be very bad faith if they try to raise a price on an existing order they accepted and I really don't think they will do this. That said, it's pretty easy to return an item to Best Buy, especially when you are already in the store to pick it up!

Click to expand...

I already received my 100L and presubmitted the rebate in canon's website. So all is good so far and it would seem I can really double dip.

btw the price at bestbuy site shows the correct price for this lens now ($1049).

neuroanatomist said:

105mm is the 'total' optical length of the lens (physical length plus backfocus distance), not a 35-105 zoom.

..................

Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks

This is a followup to my initial posting.
So I got another brand new 600-ex-rt and tested it again versus my old 580exii.
Same problem... i.e. 600 recycles slightly faster with freshly charged batteries.
This seemed good at the beginning but when I repeated the test with batteries charged 2 days ago,
the 580exii became slightly faster.

This is a bit puzzling so I checked out the spec of the eneloop AA battery. It said 0.025ohms for internal resistance.
Then I tested my 2-3 years old eneloop AA's; surely enough, they have degraded to a range of 0.080-0.120ohms.

Ah... my eneloop AA batteries are old and have higher internal resistance!

So this seems to be telling me that for recycling time alone, the 600ex-rt works well with batteries with low internal resistance but
it doesn't work so well compared to the 580ex-ii with older batteries with increased internal resistance.

Is anyone seeing the same thing? I start questioning if 600ex-rt beats 580exii hands down in all categories.

The dock allows you to adjust focus at four predetermined distances. Since I posted about my initial experience with the dock, I've actually made an adjustment to the furthermost focus distance on the 35mm, as I found it was slightly front-focusing at distance. The dock enabled me to change only the furthermost setting, leaving the closer settings as they are, because they were already fine.

But yes, I know what you mean. My decision was to use the dock to make relative adjustments as above, plus global adjustments to all the distance settings only if the lens was clearly out of step with the rest of my lenses. As it happens, my copy is not out of step with my other lenses. It requires no AFMA on my 5D MkII, in line with most of my other lenses. On my 7D, I settled on -3 AFMA, which didn't surprise me as more of my lenses seem to require a little correction on my 7D compared with my 5D MkII.

Canon 14-24 said:

privatebydesign said:

Why doesn't somebody over at Fred Miranda mention the Fotodiox solution. There is no limitation to tilt and or shift. I am not a member there so can't.

As for an expensive never arriving Lee "solution" with limited usability, it is a joke. Go on Amazon and just buy a ready made high quality solution, I just did and the Fotodiox Wonderpana just works.

Click to expand...

privatebydesign would you have sample images of the fotodiox setup on your 17mm at max -12/+12 shift? at f/8 and/or f/16? I am curious to see if there is any vignetting with the fotodiox setup+filter attached.

I am also curious to your opinion on the fotodiox 145mm filters in particular the full ND as there aren't many reviews on it. Comparing prices on Amazon I see a regular photodiox nd8 for $80 and a Lee ProGlass 0.9 for $180! Almost 2x the price, not sure if there is a significant difference in quality between the two brands?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Sorry it took so long to follow up on this.

First image is an overlay five shot (not blend) with the Fotodiox Wonderpana and CPL in place, shot on 1Ds MkIII TS-E 17 @ f16. Unshifted is the red rectangle and the four ears are 12mm shift in each direction. The shadowing on the extreme corners is the effect of the light falloff, not vignetting, it is apparent in the set I took without the Wonderpana in place as well, the second image.

Even reverse tilt can be used at 12mm shift up to about 4º, or if you need the 6º tilt then 8mm shift is where you start to get vignetting. But these are very extreme uses, with 4º of tilt you are looking at a J point less than 12" below the camera.

All in all I am very happy with the performance of the Wonderpana and I wish somebody would post about it on Fred Miranda board.

GuyF said:

adebrophy said:

Legend! thanks for posting that - you're a scholar and a gentleman (and a menace to my bank balance).

Click to expand...

Glad to be a menace, wotcha bought?

Click to expand...

Nothing on the 600RTs - looks like I dodged that bullet!

mwh1964 said:

Buy now if you need it. Whatever few bucks you may say is not worth the wait, if you really want best possible IQ in your images now.

Click to expand...

I agree. I don't need it though. I want it!

Thanks for the support.

jdramirez said:

wickidwombat said:

look at a canon ex90 it will master control your other flash
give full ettl and hss is cheap and does have enough power to give that extra fill you are chasing
they are also tiny weight next to nothing and take up little space in the bag

Click to expand...

I thought about that, but I didn't want to go back to triggering my off camera flash with another speedlite like I did with my 60D. Actually, the yongnuo's weren't that bad, when they worked.

Click to expand...

i thought you wanted the fill flash too? or did you mean additional off camera fill flash?

kirillica said:

jdramirez said:

I used the 100L for sports as well, tracking football players at all distances... and the lens is a champ when it comes to ai servo. I had significantly more keepers than not. I've since sold it... but indoor and our... works like a champ.

Click to expand...

It's not I think 100L is not capable to do that, but it's not aimed to do that. IQ from 70-200F2.8IS m2 I love significantly more for this (again, except portraits and macros).

Click to expand...

Over the time I had the 100L, it outperformed the 70-200mm f/4L usm and the f2.8L usm, though the latter has some front focusing issues. But the 100L was a beast with how impressive it really was. I used it indoors and out... it is a surprisingly versitile lens.

Thank you.



Mike Doran
D&W Images
www.dorancreatives.net

Thanks Neuro and Gmw! You're right, I do want to get closer than close up so the 24-105 won't be enough. I have a perfect place for some bee shots and I'm itching to take some!

I checked out the Canon 100 non L at your suggestion but looking at the reviews, blogs etc I don't think I can justify the extra $220 or so over the top of the Tamron. Unfortunately used versions here seem to be going for the same price or more here.

Keep in mind what opinions are like; I like this one for the composition but not so much the light. The sky is pretty colours but all the shadows are a bit of a distraction. I'd sure like to see the area in person though.

Jim

Re: New York....New York.......

petach said:

Drizzt321 said:

Love that first shot. Nice bright colors & sun, water reflection. Very nice day to day, regular stuff going on shot.

Isn't the 17-40 a good value lens? Love mine, I should shoot with it more often

Click to expand...

Thanks, yep the 17-40 is almost a permanent attachment. Won't bother with the 24-105.

Click to expand...

Well now, the 24-105 is a good, general purpose walk around lens. That said, it doesn't necessarily promote being 'artistic' in the same way being able to go superwide like on the 17-40 does. Also it's bigger and heavier by some, and fortunately doesn't extend to zoom

Thanks for the answer and the info. It's appreciated.
Regards,
James

No Mayo said:

I believe that you are right about this. It must be making more money for someone or they would just keep it simple and do it at the point of purchase. Every procrastinator that misses the submit by date keeps that money in Canon's pocket. Lots of other stats are probably providing an incentive for them to do it this way. I will climb back on the rebate horse (probably for that 24-70 2. 8) if and when B+H puts it on sale. I sure hope that my experience will be better this time around. Thanks to all for your responses.

Click to expand...

Absolutely, many do not bother to jump thru the hoops and fill out the paperwork to get a rebate, particularly if they work for a company and won't get anything back personally. I'd be surprised if half the buyers filed for a rebate. That's why Canon can afford to pay a rebate company to process them, they still save a ton of money.


As with most of the newer rebate schemes, you can logon to the rebate web site and see that your rebate was received and that nothing happens for weeks, then it says approved, but nothing more happens for weeks, until you finally receive it one day, and then it changes to mailed status a few days after that.


Some people then post complaints about the seller, who has no part in the rebate process except to post the form on their site and advertise it. its no wonder so few ever get their rebates, so many don't bother to read.

Sporgon said:

duydaniel said:

maybe not necessarily MF
but something like crop factor of 0.8 or something would be nice

Click to expand...

Why ?

Click to expand...

I think MF would discourage users due to its size.
FF size camera is perfect and I think you can squeeze in a larger sensor without compromising the size.

I'm sorry for those that have had problems with this lens. It has been a go to lens for me.

2n10 said:

I save my conversions at 72dpi, 1024 long edge and 10 quality. For printing you will want to save at full size, 10 quality and whatever dpi your printer needs.

Click to expand...

Keep in mind dpi is really just "metadata" to imaging software. It's pixels and target dpi that determine downsampling or scaling needed by the software and/or printer, so don't worry too much about the dpi when exporting from Lightroom.

At most, dpi in the JPEG will be used to tell you the default viewing size based on pixels and dpi, which is meaningless for everything except some desktop publishing apps. Even then you can change the dpi any time without re-sampling the pixels in any imaging software.

I have a G10 my ex has a later model both have the same problem. His later model, not sure which one, the scratches are worse than mine.
I agree Shame on Canon

The second set of pictures are much better than the first set...

BTW... for focusing, when most people look at a picture with a face in it, they seem to be drawn to the eyes to check for focus... makes things a lot harder when you want to also get the water being splashed up in focus too