Horrible experience with Adorama camera

eml58 said:
I've been reading this whole thing with interest, still waiting for "Wonder Woman" Helen to pull the Ops cherries out of the Fire, hopefully it'll happen after the Adorama People have had a relaxing weekend, hate to think of the Ops weekend, 27k in the Wind.

According to the OP's bank, the money will appear back in his account tomorrow. A check for $25 is on the way to him, from Adorama, to cover his wire costs.
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$1550 for a used 85L f1.2 II

jdramirez said:
Very nice. That is a pretty bokeh... and I guess I will have to break it to the wife that I am not done with buying lenses... she'll be mad at you.

Go for it...I'll take a blame. ;D

For now, I'm good with lenses. I'm going to add another FF body some time this year. Not sure which model yet - 1D X, 5D III or just simple 6D to save money for L lenses.

The new 200-400 and 400mm f2.8 IS II are next on my dream list. I will have to pick one :P....
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String contraption to help keep camera steady...?

It was only a piece of string, no name really. He demonstrated this on one of the episodes of "Seeing Scotland", a very good landscape photography series that I would highly recommend. All the episodes are available on You Tube.

This is the link to the first of the six episodes.

Seeing Scotland - Season 01 - Episode 01

Dave T-W
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70-200L f/4 IS vs 70-200L f/4

Frodo said:
Frodo said:
One thing not mentioned is lens flare. I had a non-IS 70-200/4 for years, but could not shoot into the lght, especially with the sun in the frame, without having objectionable flare.

I don't have this problem with my 70-200mm f/4 ... perhaps your filter caused the flares (or the lack of one)?

While I keep filters on most of lenses most of the time, I remove them when shooting into the light. Here is the best photo of a series shooting into the rising sun. The subsequent photos when the sun rose further were unusable (and deleted). This was 200mm @ 5.6 on a 5DII.


[/quote]

fantastc picture!
I don't use filters anymore... I had some good quality ones but I was never satisfied...
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Best solution for really shaky hands

noisejammer said:
My first suggestion would be a monopod - it doubles as a club for when you get out of line. :) A $1 alternative is one of these .... $1 Image Stabilizer For Any Camera - Lose The Tripod/Monopod[/url] - I find this works quite well. ...

+1 to the monopod and +1 and an "I'm going to make one of those" for the $1 alternative. (I'll do a lashing too since since I'm an Eagle Scout as well.)

I've used one of these before to get a better grip:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MZO5TA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Need help with 5DMKIII focus issues with 50 1.2L

The 50mm 1.2L is one of the hardest lenses to focus, no matter which camera u are using.
At F1.2, the distance between focus and blur is probably 1/8"... I am guessing, but it certainly looks that way.
I bought one a few years back and the next day I returned it. I don't use or have time for manual focusing, so I have to rely on the camera. I always used 1D bodies since 2003 so it should be the best focusing but I would get 5 out 10 shots out of focus...
Lens looks great and has an amazing sharpness at F4.0 and up but not wide open.

Cheers

P
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Camera for Granny

I would check if your grandma
* will use an optical viewfinder or the display
* needs a zoom or will prefer a prime lens
* has problems with small (or tiny) buttons
* want's to go the digital route (=data management) or
can use a bunch of cards e.g. with a flat screen with card reader.

Perhaps the combination of a medium large camera
with a large Li ion battery and a bunch of 4GB cards
with mechanical write protection might be a good
solution. Cards can be used like film cardridges and
- if it is a 100D - the camera has a large capacity
battery + can be used in a full auto setup.

Just provide a little bit time to make backups of the
cards ...

My 2ct - Michael
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Can a (DSLR) flash cause permanent eye damage?

Well, i'd say after more than 2 years it can be considered quite permanent (even if minor).
But once again, it was handheld, so regular use with camera body regulating it and not held so closely and not focusing on it in the night should be fine...
Mt Spokane Photography said:
Jules said:
Answer is plain and easy : yes, it can ! And I know the effects firsthand :-(

Some would say it looks like one of these Wile.E Coyote cartoon ... but recipe is easy... wanting to experiment with Photography can be tempting....
Take somebody who is a bit light sensitive (years in Texas with probably poor grade sunglasses didn't help), have fun at night with photo friends for a "lighpainting session" (ie. taking picts with lights effects at night), and fire a 430EX external flash at your face from 30-40cm below, and don't close your eyes ....
=> result is really cool "ghost like picture" like in the books (ie. your camera set on long exposure takes picts with 3 times your face for example if you move and redo it, just the face that was under flash exposure, rest of the body is invisible and you see the background thru ...), but better if you close your eyes and/or look up instead of looking in front or worst, low at your flash (like the first tries to see where to position it best, etc ...)
=> side effect after multiple attempts in the evening is darker spot in your eyes, showing "paler" zones when looking at lights (and having focus shift left/right) as if you had a water spot on the eye diffracting light a bit, and showing "greyer" areas when looking at uniform white wall (or blue sky) with high luminosity ...

Seeing dark spots after being exposed to a bright light is common, but its not permanent damage to your eyes.
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5D markIII Live View noise

I guys

I got a new 5D mark3 and yesterday i realize the same problem, a lot of noise in the live view when is dark.
The problem is that its happening in really high ISO setting H1 anf H2 and even in low range 200-400-800
I got a friend that have the same problem.

I realize that if you dont expand the the ISO Range to L-H1 and H2 the problem is much less

I was not able to facus in manual with the live view in x5 and x10 becouse to much noise

is it a limitation of the body or actually a problem that probably Canon dont know yet?


I gona take picture and send it to Canon and in as many bloog i can

Let see what's happen

Cheers

Keep in touch
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Fast AF Canon compact for under £100

M's af is pretty decent if:

You use oneshot rather than servo
Use single flexi zone rather than auto flexizone
Switch off continual af
Switch off touch af+shutter (use bin button to centre af spot)
Are happy to confrim af and recompose

And in this mide it is set to get even faster with the new firmware.

It's not a compact, it wasn't £100 and nor is it an SLR.
Enjoy it for what it is. The IQ is brilliant, especially with the 22mm!

Enjoy and welcome to the m club.
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Seeking Recommendations regarding camera upgrade

Sebring5 said:
Zv said:
Sebring5 said:
6d although I recommend primes instead of zooms.

I disagree, limiting yourself like that can be creative but sometimes a job calls for the flexibilty of a zoom. Now, I reckon just one or two zooms will do it and then build up your primes. A 24-105L is prob all you'll need. Then decide what focal lengths you are drawn to. Don't get a 35mm just because it's cool to have one. You'll have to analyse your shooting and framing styles over a long period of time. And it's ongoing. You may find that this year you are more of a tele kind of guy.
I have a 400mm f5.6, 135mm f2, 50mm f1.8 and 17mm t/s f4. I rarely use the 50mm. Maybe later on I'll get a 600mm or 800mm. I'm definitely either medium to long telephoto or ultra wide angle. Later on I may end up in shooting differently.

Sorry that post was not aimed at you but rather the OP!
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5D Mk III Vs. 7D Vs. T4i VIDEO ONLY

BokChoiTV said:
The T5i's cost is way too much for so little difference over the T4i

But it's a really nice embossed dial.

BokChoiTV said:
Hopefully the T4i will be friendly too, haven't used a Rebel in years.

It'll feel small and flimsy at first, but you'll get used to it. ...there's a joke in there somewhere...
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Canon SE-E3-RT and Sekonic L-478DR together?

Canon only plays nice with Canon RT. I called Sekonic and asked if they were planning to build a Canon friendly RT module and they said no. They are in bed with PW. That was 4 months ago and you never know.

When in manual I carry my STE3 and L-358 with me. Flashes in group mode and I use the test button on the STE3 to fire the flashes. I set them all at each location using this method. When done I put the STE3 back on my camera.

I modified the foot stand and attached a spare BR connector.

_S7A9539.jpg
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