I shot a mitzvah and a wedding this weekend with an upgraded 1DX and a 600EX-RT flash with mostly low-light setting and I can confirm a substantial improvement with the speed of autofocus lock. It's soooo nice to have make my subjects wait any more for that painful pause while the camera locks in focus.

Pi said:

Another thing - do not leave too much empty space above the head. This is a common mistake when using the center AF point - I know because I have done it. Read this, for example:

http://www.gieson.com/school/photos/

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lol @ Don't be a "grid nazi." hahahah Great tips!

Nice video!

phixional ninja said:

karminator said:

It really depends on what you are shooting. I would consider the 135 f/2L. Amazing lens. It gives you two more stops, and isn't a big white lens to attract attention for street photography.

However, if most of your shots are at 200, you would need to be getting in a bit closer to the subject.

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I've looked at the 135mm. It looks like an absolutely stunning lens, but I don't know that it's different enough from the 100mm f2.8L to justify buying it. I really like having the 200mm reach, both for street photography and wildlife.

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A 70-200mm close to min focus distance looses a bit of focal length. The Canon variants are better than most in this regard, but it does loose a bit. Neither of the primes loose much focal length at MFD, but it's interesting that the 135L close to MFD needs only a few steps forwards to make the same framing of a 70-200mm lens on the same subject @ 200mm. So often at weddings, I get more milage out of the 135L and moving about abit.
If you are in a fixed position and don't have the luxury of moving about then a 70-200 makes more sence.
The non is F4 lens is very capable, although it's quite old. The newer IS version is a toally new optical design and is a peach of a lens. It's optical quality close to the mkII f2.8 version, although it looses a stop but is a heck of a lot lighter and smaller. Given my choice I'd have the 135L. if I needed longer, pop a 1.4x TC on it or pop it on a 1.6x crop camera. If I needed a zoom, then either the 75-300L (a very underated lens) or the 70-200mm f4 L IS would be my choices. Naturally, its' your money and your choice....only you can work out what you really need. If you are caught between two lenses it's usually becuase you really want/need both.

I haven't posted in awhile but I thought I would post up my most recent work. This event was shot with my 5D on my jib with a motorized head while all of the pans and dolly shots were shot with the C100. Some people would say why not put the C100 on the jib but it will slow down my workflow and just cause alot of setup and breakdown time and plus I can also shoot 60fps on the MK3 which I cannot on the C100. The footage cuts very well together after sharpening the MK3 footage. Check it out!!
Nickelsvision | Wekfest Long Beach 2013 | A Video About Cars

my sigma doesn't have any CA problem, and neither did photozone's or lentip's. was that " longitudinal chromatic aberration" or " lateral chromatic aberration" that was bothering you? either way, it shouldn't be.

and the answer to your question is no, sorry. you'll have to find a RAW solution.

My recommendation is to shoot Manual exposure with Manual power flash. From the problem you explained it doesn't seem like time is an issue since you took multiple shots testing things out. 99.9% of the time that should fix your problem from my experience.

Having crawled out of bed late today, we bombed out of Versailles, took a stroll onto the islands, Notre Dame, Ile Stait Louis, Justice Courts, then over to the Louvre... After a rest back at the hotel, been back up to Montmarte and Sacre Coeur to get some dusk photos, get robbed in a local resturant etc ;-) took my Eos M as a low profile shooter and thankful that I did, so many shifty looking characters at Savre Coeur, pickpocket types, people selling Paris tat, laser pens, flying things, beers from 24 packs etc - thankfully the Police kept rolling by and scaring them off, grabbed a few photos as the lights on the basilica came on, then beat a hasty retreat to Montmarte around the corner where the local resturants and bars appear to keep the dodgy characters at bay - taxi back to the hotel from there.

'The future is a big place'

Awe, I like the
now to find a picture that fits the words....

procentje20 said:

Ah, i see. Its jargon. Not very scientific, but hey, i'll adjust to it. If this is the way cameras are compared it will just be confusing if I stick to my method.

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Not jargon, but rather comparing apples to apples. In this case, that means a comparison based on capturing the same subject framing and perspective with both cameras.

A comparison that involves different framing or a different perspective doesn't make much sense.

I'm very interested in the 28-200mm for my 5D MkIII. Hopefully the lens will be L quality, and weigh less than 900g, which would make for a great walk around lens.

Dantana said:

RGF said:

Singsling said:

Forget all the high tech guff for a minute...go out and buy a 100D/SL1 slap on a shorty forty, walk down the city street and shoot, shoot, shoot. Go on you know you want too....it's called fellin gooooood! Don't be shy post them here.

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Is this combination good for BIF (birds in flight) or macro or landscape. Street photographer is a narrow field

Might I suggest you buy a 1Dx, 600mm II, Wimberley head, TV 2x, ... and shoot birds

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Great point that the OP's version of "happy" is a narrow focus.

Although to be fair, the original idea is a bit more budget friendly than what you suggest. I'd love to take the advice though.

I'll stick with option C for right now, which is trying to get the most out of the gear I've got while saving up for a new rig.

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Agree that there is more than 1 one way to fun. And if I knew more than nothing about street photography the rig would be great. It always fun to try new things.

risc32 said:

i'd love a zeiss 15mm but decided to slum it with a samyang 14mm. It gets it done just fine, better(sharper) than my 16-35mmv2 was. The build seems okay, but Roger at lensrentals says internally it's not so great, but as he points out, one could buy new replacement for the cost of a typical repair to something like the canon 14mml.

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Thanks - I must say I am not a fan of use and toss lenses. If they will not hold up, I'll tend to skip them

Awesome! -- Thanks.

eml58 said:

lilmsmaggie said:

Sorry, this question is a bit off topic but what Nikon-Canon lens adapter are you using with your Nikkor 14-24?

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Novaflex, You can find them here


http://www.novoflex.com/index.php

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interesting but strange. Not sure the article accurately reported all the details

Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study

dirtcastle said:

Jent said:

LOL eyeland ;D

In all seriousness, as Phillip Bloom said, it is an awesome accomplishment for ML and it is phenomenal that they have allowed DSLR owners to shoot RAW. However, do most people need to shoot RAW - no. Unless you're super well off, you are going to be blowing alot of cash. I'm gonna wait to get a 5DIII after they fix the kinks.

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That word "need" is a funny one. Six years ago, there was no "need" for a smartphone. Now everyone "needs" a smartphone. It might take more than six years for RAW video to be a "need". But it will probably happen.

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Yeah...I keep thinking that this color TV thing is still pretty much just a fad that will fade away myself....

Thanks!

As you might imagine, something that expensive not working correctly can be stressful.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

You can check out a Tamron 28-300mm zoom. Much cheaper. You get what you pay for and its a lot less expensive than a pro grade lens. Good luck at finding a competent review, the better reviewers don't have time to waste on bashing a lens.

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I believe I shot this whole set with the Tamron 28-300 on my 5DIII if you want a sampling of what it does:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brand_b/sets/72157632198594770

You can see what he means, it is definitely a few steps down from something like the Canon 70-300L.

It is, however, reallly compact, and for the price, a decently built and performing lens, and the IS is pretty decent. Has a lock switch so it doesn't droop on you. I used it happily for a few years before I got my 5D and some better lenses.

bholliman said:

I would also recommend the 430EXII, but the 600EX is even better if money isn't an issue.

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Not necessarily - the 600rt on the 60d is rather unbalanced and large, no fun to hold for extended times - I'm always amazed how light the camera feels when I switch my 600rt for my old 430ex, esp. at the end of a flash bracket. Plus the larger flashes aren't as easy to store, so to have at least one smaller flash around is a definitive plus for me.

I would invest in the Canon line up if I were you.

Thanks folks. I cant rest my mind for now. I will be giving it another thorough check to make sure its nice and clean.

I just checked my wife's refurbished T3i, it has an almost imperceptible little pin mark by the serial number. Also checked my refurbished 600 RTs, they also have a little pin mark. So tiny, you'd never notice it if you weren't looking.

Another way to know, I think, would be if the owner still has the original box. Refurbished never come with the original box, but always with the "generic white" Canon refurbished box.

Really though, if you are buying used, it doesn't matter much whether the seller bought it refurbished or bought it new. In either case, you don't really know anything about the history of the camera and can only judge by the apparent condition, the price and what the seller is telling you.

Also consider this, even if the camera was once new, you have no way of knowing if you are buying it from the original owner, or if they just bought it used from someone else.

At any rate, if the seller isn't offering the item at less than what you can buy refurbished then they are asking too much, regardless of whether they bought it new or not.

As an aside, I recently saw a new phenomenon on eBay -- people re-selling refurbished items still in the sealed Canon refurbished box. Looks like they bought them during the recent 15% off sale and then when the items were sold out at the Canon store, they were selling them for a slight markup.

Chuck Alaimo said:

Drizzt321 said:

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

Chuck Alaimo said:

I rented a 6d and am 90% sure I will have one of my own in the next week or 2 to be a backup body for my 5d3. the one thing that kind of disappointed me with the wifi, and kind of potentially ruins one of my plans with it is -- for weddings I had had the idea to set it up in an area I can only access before the ceremony (like behind the altar). The problem is after like 5-10 minutes of not being in use the camera and phone lose connection and there is no way to reestablish the connection without direct access to the camera. It can still be done, set up, then just make sure to snap a shot every minute to keep the connection active.

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Another valid point. Have you tried changing the Auto Power Off setting? You have a lot choices there, including never shutting off. I haven't tried that, but I suspect it should keep the camera live and thus the connection on during that time.

BTW, that is a very clever idea and use for the Wi-Fi connection, particularly considering you can you change DOF and lighting on the fly.

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I forget the name of the device, but there's a thing floating around that connects via USB and supports a variety of remote control functions. Sounds pretty analogous to the 6D + WiFi + Canon Remote app for anyone who doesn't have a 6D or can't use their phone (non-Android, non-iPhone user here).

I think turning off the auto-power off might do the trick for you. Probably kind of distracting to try and work both that and shooting from the normal angles. How do you manage that? Or is it simply knowing which parts of the ceremony are better captured from the alternate camera and using it then?

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I tried turning the the auto power off off...camera did as it was supposed to, it stayed on, but the connection still timed out, and you need access to the camera to reestablish connection. I only had the 6d for a few days so my tests were less than scientific...lol.

As to " Probably kind of distracting to try and work both that and shooting from the normal angles. How do you manage that?" Specifically I was thinking about Catholic weddings, where the ceremonies are long and the B&G are up by the altar kneeling for a half an hour, I can only take so many shots of their backs! So my idea was with the 6d, get there early, talk to the priest and ask him if setting up the remote camera was allowed...on that kind of wedding there are plenty of moments where you just have to chill out and wait because again, how many shots do the B&G really want of their backs? The remote came would be able to get their faces. So I don't think it would be too distracting for me, at least on those kid of weddings.

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Ah, I see. That makes total sense. I've never been to one of those big, formal, drawn out weddings before. Good idea though!

neuroanatomist said:

The spectral sensitivity curve of digital and film are fairly different (and films differ widely, too, which is why there were so many types available). The CFAs differ between cameras, too, so you'll even see differences between converted dSLRs of different models.

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Thanks.
Possible to develop filters matching some film frequencies to emulate the same look?

This lens is on my to buy list- good optically, light and compact walkaround lens with IS which will make an excellent c. 40mm (ie, slightly wider than standard) equivalent on a crop camera. I live in hope the price will drop a little more in the next 12 months or so!