neuroanatomist said:

Ok, I'll correct you.

Click to expand...

Thanks for correcting me. I guess I am so used to Canon not doing what they say, that when then do I don't recognize it! I guess less than a month to go. At least my backup 5D3 is working better

xps said:

Some month ago, the GO where I am working bought some Cams for documentation. There we were definitifly told, that it is technically impossible to use the AF on an lens thath has an beginning aperture of >=8 on the 5D MK3. - Now it is possible. Interresting.

Click to expand...

The af performance with narrower aperture simply drops, meaning slower (with a Canon tc) or less reliable (with a Kenko tc) af. As proven by the pin taping method, simply disabling af in these cases is mainly marketing to sell the 1d/5d3 cameras and more expensive (i.e. wider aperture) tele lenses.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

That's a feature in Magic Lentern that seems useful to me, but I haven't used ML.

Click to expand...

The big disadvantag of the ml software solution (and manual focusing) in comparison to a macro sledge is that the former has to reconstruct data that isn't there since the size of the image changes when focusing - in some cases this will show, esp. when having a object in the foreground occluding the non-bokeh background. Magic Lantern works great for "simple" shots of a tilted plane like this watch.

is it just me not remembering or the display for shutter and fstop has changed when you hit the Q button display them on the rear lcd screen?

I remember seeing that type of display on the 6D

ie when after selection where you can make changes.

Videoshooter said:

Personally, I would rather see the video improved so that they offer proper 1920x1080 video (or perhaps even 2K - for that little bit of extra res for slight framing adjustments). The C100 footage is a whole lot sharper, as is the GH2 - especially hacked - and I wish Canon would at least attempt to get their DSLR footage up to this level. It is just frustrating that, aside from the moire-free (albeit softer) video of the mkIII, Canon has done absolutley nothing to actually improve the processing and image quality of their DSLR video performance since the mkII came out all those years ago.

Click to expand...

Honestly I don't see how you can say that there are no improvements to the 5D3 over the 5D2, the footage is MUCH cleaner on the 5D3. Sure it wasn't a tremendous jump, and probably not worth $1500 more than the 5D2 initially, but for $2300 refurbished I think the 5D3 is a huge step up from the 5D2 (on the stills side mainly). The only real gripe about the 5D3 was the price really, but now that it's $2300-$2500 I don't think anyone can complain. All I know is I'm much happier shooting video with the 5D3 than I was the 5D2, and neither have inhibited me from producing quality work.

Nishi Drew said:

Yes the price increase is bogus, but there's definitely physical improvements to allow the camera to output that kind of high bitrate high res video, even with 1080P on the other DSLRs they struggle with overheating, but even with quality components added for heat dissipation I don't see any of that adding beyond $1K.
Also, EOSHD reports disappointment with a test shoot using the 1DC, rather soft output similar to how the 5DMarkIII video looks, doesn't make any sense...

Click to expand...

They must have been talking about the 1080p video because the 4K footage is world's better than any 5D3 footage I've ever seen, but for $12k I'd still expect more out of it. 8-Bit 4:2:0 can only get you so far I guess...

Thanks, looks like you're right about it being the same as the Oloong and Calumet flashes. Both look fairly well reviewed but they're missing high speed sync, which might be a deal breaker for me.


Actor Headshots NYC | Gotham Family Photos | NY Wedding Photographer

I would love to see this lens released in the next year or so. But expect it to cost $2,500+. Though I would gladly pay that... <24mm presents a bit of a hole in my camera bag. Even with the Sigma 12-24mm... I'd love to have something faster with better corner performance.

D n L Photography said:

I just bought a canon 50 L lens and was checking it over this evening; I shook it lightly, and it rattled a little bit. I also have to micro adjust the focus on it on my 5D Mk III 15 points!! Never had to do it that much with any of my other lenses! On my 1dx I have to adjust it the same direction 5 points. Should I return the lens? Or send it to Canon? Or just live with it? I need some advice from someone with a little more experience.

Click to expand...

Mine doesn't rattle and I was fine leaving it at +/-0. I'd have it replaced. The latter doesn't matter much - the rattle does.

I use the 24, 35 and 50 when shooting the kids, I used to own the 85 (a bunch of times) and it doesn't keep up with two-three year olds. The 35 L is my favorite, I like the contact you get with the subject with wide apertures and that focal, really pops. I have gotten a few fun, cool images laying on the floor with the 24 also. i recently bought a 24-70 mk1, and that is veryvery useful with kids, I set my desired focal and move my feet to frame instead of zooming to frame, that way you can control the perspective and best of all, change it in a split-second. I find the 70-200 also very useful (and I am a prime guy) and I see people mention the 135, I have also owned that a few times, but for ME I can't really find a place for it, it's too long or too short for me. The 70-200 on FF is awesome for all sorts of people shots.

Unfortunately there's no right answer for you.
It will all depend on the location and the event.
How far is the stage, how big is it
How near can you get to the speakers.
Are you allowed to go up on the stage.
are you allowed to go all the way to the front and not block the people who are attending the event.

If you can answer those questions, you will know which is the best lens for you.
In a big ballroom or conference hall where the stage is huge and you are always standing far away, you will need a 70-200.

I believe most event photographers will have a medium zoom and a tele zoom just in case.
Wedding photographers will use the 24-70 because it's sharp

I've used the 24-105 to shoot corporate events before but that's because it's in a small ballroom (think hotel rooms) where i can get pretty near to the speakers. But i also did one in an open area like a stadium and that time, the 24-105 was as good as useless.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I'd Skip the PW. Too many issues with a third party unit. ... Some have been waiting 7 years for a new 100-400L. However, it currently had no real competition, its the best of its kind.

Click to expand...

Agree with the 3rd party flash. I waited a few years hoping for the RT's and they did deliver, so I plunked down for three units plus the ST.

I'm one of those still waiting for the 100-400 though It's OK, no rush.

Yesterday I did a portrait shoot with a a model. Mostly to use for an upcoming exhibition I have in a few weeks, but also for her to get some photographs for herself. I have been experimenting back and forth with the grain effect in LR to find the right amount of grain to get that film look.

I shot with my 5D3 and the 35L, it gives a nice perspective that I like and it fitted her face perfectly although it's wide to be a traditional portrait lens. I will make prints around 50x60 cm, fitting the whole picture in and leave white frames around it for the magnets at the gallery.

I am wondering if you have any recommendations on how far to go on the scale. Any pointers? I am experimenting back and forth but just can't tell when it gets perfect. Any tips are welcome.

cheers
J

I have a Nexus 7 32GB and I'm very happy with it - very good value for a high quality, fast, well specced tablet. I have a long train commute to work every day so I watch movies on it mostly but I'll use it for remote camera control when I get a body that supports it.

This and other posts helped me to decide on buying the 100-400 now instead of waiting to see what the vs ll will be like.
I saved Money with the instant rebate. I haven't had it long enough to find anything wrong. The pics are good and I think I got a good copy of this lens. I just need to practice with BIF pics. I'm sure when vs 2 comes out my wallet will be happy I bought when I did.

faustino said:

I thought the focus had to be "precise" at the point where one is focusing, and that the field curvature would affect the remaining area of the frame.
I mean:
1. if I focus in the center, the field curvature would make closer the "focus sphere" (should be "focus plane") at the left and right parts of the frame;
2. If I focus on one side (e.g. left), the side where I focus should be spot on; while, the field curvature should make closer the focus sphere on the other side of the frame (center and even more on the right).
Isn't the above correct?

Click to expand...

My experience shows that it's not correct. For a weird reason (caused by the lens's spherical abberrations, as far as I know) you should have differenet compensation adjustments for each focus point. Or shoot using one focus point. Otherwise you'll have those focus issues.

faustino said:

To compensate I have to set a +4 in the microadjustment settings; in that case I end up with the center point front focusing.

P.S.
I brought the lens to the Canon Service Center in Milan (where I live), they said that the softness on the corner is normal. Anyhow, it seems they misunderstood the issue.

Click to expand...

The dispersion is within the specification. I have AFMA range of ~7 steps accross focus points (from -3 to +3).
That's the price you pay for the bokeh you get with this lens.

wickidwombat said:

Snook said:

IThe amount that I want to spend is tentatively $2000, but I could see myself selling the Tamron, and forking up a little bit more to get a 6D w/ 24-105mm f/4 IS, but then again, I don't know if I could justify the price for essentially a "first-time" DSLR. The GPS feature will be great for traveling being that I will be in 7 different countries while I am in Europe.

Click to expand...

this is the best option in my opinion

the tamron 18-270 is possibly one of the very worst lenses ever made by anyone

even though you have the 50 1.8 I would still recomend the 40mm pancake on the 6D just because that lens on a high iso FF camera is such a nice light walk around combo that would be prefectly suited for travel and 50mm can be a little tight also you need to stop the 50mm 1.8 down to around 2.2 anyway

Click to expand...

The OP said he is going to buy a 6D, this is a full frame camera. The Tamron 18-270 will not work on the FF body. For Full Frame bodies like the 6D he should be looking at the Tamron 28-300mm XR Di VG, This combo would make a excellent walk-around lens for European travel. I would also take a ultra wide angle too. I think a Canon EF 16-35mm 2.8L II would be great. The building are so close together, and close across from each other a ultra wide is needed to get good shots. Like the plaza in Rome with Trevli Fountain is very tight with close in buildings all around.

I did see an ad for the 6D at a ebay store for about $1500, body only. They also have a new 7D for $859, but this is a crop sensor, and the Tamron 18-270mm will work fine with this camera. I own a 18-270 and it is a great walk-around lens, for Europe, I would get a Canon EF-S 10-22mm for those close in shots.

I think you should ensure you set the camera on 'show all focus points'. Try that. Regards.

JonB8305 said:

Damn I'm really trying to avoid buying another Profoto Kit. I need some back light alternatives.

Click to expand...

If you were doing video shooting, I'd suggest picking up a $30 halogen work lamp from Home Depot and clamping it to a mic stand. Unfortunately, as soon as you add flashes into the mix, that sort of setup probably won't be very user-friendly.

Hey Paulie, long time no see! Hope all is well and GLWS!

x-vision said:

So, the T4i -> T5i rebadging went smoothly, after all. Geez, how did they do it.

Click to expand...

They missed a few places though. Noticed this on the "Beautiful Dreamer" T5i commercial this morning:

jebrady03 said:

Ok, so I could see using gels/filters to make the light on the subjects match (or at least approximate) the proper color temperature of a setting sun. And off axis lighting definitely makes sense. Can you folks toss up a couple of pics of it being done right? Because thus far, everything I've seen looks unnatural (ie, color temp is off, wrong lighting angle, light too strong and the subject is overexposed compared to the scenery, etc.).

Thanks!!!!

Click to expand...

That's the thing - done right, you wouldn't notice it at all. It would look natural and effortless. Look at some wedding work by Clay Blackmore, almost everything he has is fill flashed, and you'd probably never notice it. It doesn't matter if its a sunset, cloudy day, high noon, in shade or not, or even in a snowstorm. Dialing down the fill, matching (or un-matching) color temp, diffusion (and source size), as well as proper angle makes the difference.

I'm 15mins away from service center in Irvine, CA. I'm happy with their service.

Can this somehow be related to all these rumors about the full frame Pentax DSLR? If Pentax expects to attract many new users by introducing FF camera, it may sound reasonable to increase the lens prices. Regarding 645d, a decrease in price may be related to the release of Nikon 800d and/or rumors about the expected 60 mp 645d ii.

You are missing a lens in the under 40mm range. I'd buy a wide angle lens before 85mm, which you already have.

I'd not recommend buying a wide aperture lens for a 60D, simply because you cannot fine tune the AF of the camera to give the sharpest focus at wide apertures. Stick to f/4 or smaller.

The 17-40mmL might be a good choice.