pierceography said:

Bokeh looks surprisingly nice too... I might have to consider this lens over the 35L. Would be curious to see a side by side comparison of the two from someone on this forum.

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Maybe not what you're looking for, but you could always use the comparison tool on TDP (I would link to it but I'm not sure if that counts as advertising another site).

I think the problem mostly lies in the fact that you lose a lot of the sensor's dynamic range when you're at higher ISOs. I'm not sure what gear you're using, but if it's possible to get a faster lens so you can drop the ISO, that might make more difference than where you're pointing the spot meter.
Just a thought.
-Raj

simonbratt99 said:

I am a pixel peeper for a very good reason. Stock sites are pixel peepers so i need to be.

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They may be, but our company sure gets a lot of stuff with a lack of critical focus. Good images, not perfectly sharp.

if u can afford the 600, then get it. the range is really nice and the exposures are excelent in ttl. i own 2 of them. u should try using a quantum turbo sc battery. u can just ut it in your ocket while u walk around or stick it on a leg of a tripod. they make a tripod clip for it. ur recycle times will be bistering fast. one of the features that is nice on the 600 is it will cut-off if it gets super hot. i don't believe that is the case with the 480. if u shoot with a quantum battery know that the flash can get really hot quickly. the battery is good for 100's of shots before u need to recharge it.

Such a creative invite in my mind would mean that it's for the 7d successor instead of the 60d's

Quite a ''revolutionary'' invite, should be followed by the announcement of a 'revolutionary' product!

Dantana said:

Does anyone that has used it have an opinion on the Canon 200mm 2.8 L, paired with a 1.4x?

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Loved the combo on the 7D and T1i, the 200/2.8L is the one lens I have wanted back ever since I sold it.

Long lenses to also consider, Sigma 50-500 and Tamron 200-500mm, but they may not be ideal for the situation.

bwfishing said:

The only thing bad about renting is when you rent something too good that is out of your price range to buy.
I'm still trying to recover from the Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM that lens is amazing!

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Give up, there isn't any recovery from the 300/2.8, especially once you've handled the mk II version.

I don't know why people keep banging on about the price,the RRP is high but street price's are 25% lower in the UK and europe..

neuroanatomist said:

The 28-300L is convenient for travel. If you mean the MkII versions of the 24-70 and the 70-200, the IQ will be much better. Yes, you can shoot them wide open. I suspect you'd be fine cropping the 70-200 II images vs. 300mm, or you could add a 1.4xIII down the line for a 280mm f/4 lens that's still a stop faster than the 28-300 at 300mm.

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+1

I just picked up a refurb 70-200L f/2.8ll to play with so I'm done for now. Pretty good deal for those in need...

Forgot to mention that's from Canon...

My money is on:

OMD size, possibly retro looking, weather sealed
EOS M mount
APS-C sensor
On chip PDAF like Fuji X100s
EVF centrally mounted DSLR style
Physical controls, except for ISO
Rotating and flip large rear touch LCD

Is the studio strobe [supposed to be]synching with a wire or radio?
I assume you find it works without tethering.

Can't be intended...

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Yes, I shoot wireless and it works fine as long it is not connected to the computer.

Thanks for your reply.

Thanks for your reply.

I use it with my Elinchrome wireless EL skyport.

Just a word of advice from 25+ years in professional sales (computers, insurance, real estate). Follow up with a phone call to each person/business you mail a card to. This will approximately double your sales ratio from the cards. Good luck

Primarily Left handed, but a stronger right hand...
I could shoot with either eye now (previously one was weaker than the other) so I use my right eye as that is easier with the camera!

Awesome

Any rumors of an 18-200 f/2.8 L

Jonathan,

Thank you for clarifying that the focal point is behind your intended focus point. Yes, I would expect as I have personally experiencing a need for a negative number coming out of FoCal, with one exception...

I am starting to believe from purely anecdotal evidence (I've tested eight lenses on two bodies numerous times in FoCal and added more actuations to my new 5D3 than I'd cared to) that positive and negative AFMA settings, especially within +/- 5 are more of a 'secret sauce' that translates into a formula the camera uses when giving instructions to the USM focus motors within the lenses.

In other words, just because you select a positive AFMA adjustment for a lens (which should technically focus it FURTHER BEHIND your focal point), does not necessarily mean that it will and could actually bring the focus FORWARD/CLOSER to the camera. Here's why I believe this...

Using the AF Consistency test within FoCal, you can see that certain AFMA values deliver far more consistent AF results than other. There will almost always be at least one ore more "outlier" results at certain AFMA settings where the autofocus missed significantly compared to the exposures.

I always take the AFMA result given to me by FoCal from the Fully Automated test, and go into the AF Consistency test. From there, I select the "AFMA Range" option and enter for the minimum, a value 2 or 3 points FORWARD (subtract from the AFMA result given to you by the Full test) up to 2 or 3 points BEHIND (add to the AFMA result), in steps of 1, with 10 exposures at each AFMA increment.

You may be surprised at the results. The POSITIVE numbers you are getting from FoCal may actually yield more CONSISTENT focus results than negative numbers (which we would expect).

Give it a try at least for one of your lenses and see what you get and set the AFMA setting for that lens in your camera to the AFMA setting which gives you the *most consistent* result with a high QoF (Quality of Focus) score.

If your images continue to miss the mark and focus behind your subject, you may seriously want to consider sending your camera body into Canon for them to calibrate it and ensure it is working to spec.

-Darius

I thought the tech might be wrong/confused. I have been saving the outflow of images to that SSD. the C drive is an SSD too, but I want them separated. This isn't about installation, just tethered image flow and chosen destinations.

I just reported it so we'd all know where they stand.

jonathan7007

Phil,
I think I said above that I don't think this [previous]owner ever used live view. It's so much a studio or location "set" function and he is a retired doctor who loved photography. I don't blame him and he asked me to keep him informed about what I learned bout the problem. All my senses and experience lead me to believe he did not sell me the camera knowing it is flawed.

And it might not be flawed.

In another thread I added my testing that showed the card that ws in the camera -- a Lexar 64Gig 400x UDMA7 -- was faulty, and I hope that the Error30 was brought on by screwed-up communication between the camera and laptop caused by the card. Swapping cards and lots of shooting with the body has NOT shown any problem since. And today I ran through FoCal testing with three lenses; target aiming calls for live view use. I was worried but again, NO problem so far.

So, if the card was all the problem I had (and Amazon is replacing the card) then hooray!

I really like this body. It feels and sounds great. The files are wonderful at lower ISO and with plenty of light, or more exactly, exposure.

Others with this body have communicated their good service records: few issues and lots of live view without ANY hiccup. I did do a lot of reading before deciding to buy a 5 to 6 year old model of Canon. It fits neatly into a kit that includes a 5DMk3.

I now have to decide -- if going out for a third body -- backup -- which I'd buy? I don't shoot sports so no 1DMk4. Not going to worry about it right now but that decision will be upon me soon, and this 1Ds is wonderful as long as the Error30 was a false alarm.

Thanks for you comments, Phil.

jonathan7007

Found this video. Maybe it will help!

https://vimeo.com/40759341

I am currently looking for advice on this too. There are so many options on this camera so I think it may take a while for me to figure out what I like.

jrista said:

I do, however, also take photos of landscapes, in which case ISO 100 is king and better DR is the most important thing. I am not one to push around shadows by four stops...I think that makes a photo look terrible. I would, however, like to be able to push my shadows around as much as I need without having to bother worrying about banding noise, or have to deal with running my RAWs through a tool like Topaz DeNoise 5 to get rid of any banding that exists in the shadows. I can recover a LOT of DR in my Canon images these days with a tool like Topaz DeNoise (at least a stop, if not two with some careful and meticulous tweaking), but...its extra work. It takes extra time, and isn't quite as good as a better sensor that doesn't have banding noise in the first place.

That said...clean, random noise in the shadows (i.e. once you have removed banding) can, as Ctein's article states, actually help improve "DR", or what he calls Exposure Range. Adding a little bit of noise back into shadows when you have to apply heavy debanding can actually help restore detail and extract even a little bit more dynamic range. (That was really the point I wanted to make by posting the articles, guess I should have known it would create a monster DR debate.)

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Agree ... If I were shooting primarily landscapes, I would choose the D800 over the Canon offerings.

BTW, i dont agree that this is a "monster DR debate". on the contrary, this is the most reasonable DR debate I've seen on this forum for a long time.

Thanks for posting the link!

Both the lens and the camera can be adjusted, but only Canon can adjust the lens, while those with AFMA in their body can adjust that body for a particular lens.

You can send your 60D and lens to Canon, and they can adjust both of them to specification. I had my 35mmL adjusted at Canon Irvine, and now it is right on for all my camera bodies.

Most of the time, new lenses are pretty close to perfect as received, but I have received a few that are off by enough to be detrimental to my images.

I don't recommend getting a fast f/1.4 lens for a 60D due to no AFMA, and its a particular issue for third party lenses, because Canon will not adjust them to match the body, so you must send the lens to its manufacturer and the body to Canon, and hope that fixes things.

Sigma has a new lens adjustment tool that works with their new high end lens models, so that should help if you pick one with owner adjustment capability. In that case, the adjustment is in the lens. The drawback is that the lens may need different adjustments on different bodies, so its not a ultimate solution.

Hmmmm... Just my personal opinion, so please take it with a grain of salt. But overall, this image is fairly uninteresting. The sky is lacking of any detail (not your fault, obviously), so I wouldn't worry so much about keeping the exposure there and try to boost the exposure in the barn. And while I realize you mentioned you're not a fan of PP, I would add a gradient to the sky to keep it from blowing out if you do attempt to boost the exposure of the barn.

Increasing the contrast couldn't hurt either, since the image feels a bit flat to me.

Just my $0.02.

Here are some shots I got with my S100 last summer at the St. Louis Zoo

J.R. said:

There is so much that is ignored these days - composition, lighting, shot set up and so much other relevant important stuff that makes you wonder what the hell is going on.

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That pretty much describes every watermarked snapshot ever posted online. I suppose watermarking snapshots is some bizarre form of self-flattery I've yet to fully understand ;D

Watermarked snapshots for life ;D!