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D20 Dead in the water?

kidnaper said:
pdirestajr said:
Recently picked up the D20 for a vacation. I was seriously impressed. It's a great simple camera that is perfect for it's intended purpose. Yes a few quirks, but nothing that is a deal breaker for this type of camera.
I saw your photos in another thread, and they are fantastic. Amazon finally shipped my TG-1 today so Friday I should be able to test it out a bit. Your pictures definitely convinced me that if I'm the least bit not pleased with the Olympus, it will go right back in exchange for the Canon.

Thanks!
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Which body is best to combat the primary color problem?

Hi everyone!
I use a 30D. It's a grand camera, definitely a great first DSLR, etc etc. As I've been with it for a while I've gotten accustomed to how it handles things, and one thing I notice is that shooting primary colors always turns out badly.

I figure that's due to the mosaic pattern of the sensor, giving 1/4 resolution for blue and red and 1/2 for green. Day to day it doesn't show up much, but at a party or concert you can see the lumpiness of the primaries even at a normal viewing size. Which new body handles this best? The best I can come up with is that this is when megapixels start to matter, since a higher resolution would make that quartering (or halving) of resolution more negligible. I've been thinking of new bodies for a while since I want to take video, but this is something that I've thought of before and is tough to find mention of online anywhere. What do you think?

Upgrade 70-200 2.8 is to version II and add 2x TC, or get 100-400L?

drjlo said:
For me, it would be much more annoying if I had to carry 70-200 II Plus a 300 or 400 mm lens.

Well, there is the 70-300L which is rather inexpensive in comparison to the 70-200+tc alternative and more suited for travel. But the 70-300L is a less frightening travel/walkaround lens with a native/fast af @300mm, and not designed for low-light shooting when the (max.) open aperture matters. For professional use and manual exposure, the way to go is a fixed aperture lens.
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1DX on preorder

I need a zoom & the 70 - 200 2.8 is pretty perfect.

I'm pretty disappointed in the 1D4 at 6400 so I wouldn't go any higher with it.

Black leotards in at EV5 is probably not a good mix.

My photography will pay for the 1DX so I figure I'll get one the second they're available. I ordered two in October last year & paid deposits in January so I reckon I've waited long enough and I have faith that Canon have the bugs sorted. My 5D is also over its rated shutter actuations so I've had my use from it. :)
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Is there any reason EF mount lenses couldn't fit mirrorless cameras?

I can sort of see your confusion, it's just in the way I worded things and the way you interpreted them. That point 3, was referring to Canon and not Leica (I thought this was more obvious considering it referenced new & mirrorless and the topic of this thread is about Canon doing a new & mirrorless system).

Sorry for any confusion but my original intention in posting, no matter how convoluted or obviously worded it may be, has been the same on this one from the start. I hope you can see that, but if not at this point I really don't care and have no interest in doing any further Abbot and Costello routines with you, or anyone else. Thanks.
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Dual Card-Slot Workflow?

Mt Spokane Photography said:
I make a jpeg copy on the SD card, but its just a emergency copy, and is never used, but is there in the event I were to lose my raw image card. I have a 64 GB Sandisk SDXC 30mb/sec SD card, its plenty fast for me, but I do not ever use the high speed fps for more than three or 4 shots without pausing. The SD card never leaves the camera.

basically the same as this for normal use
I have some 32GB sandisk 45 mb/s SD cards
for my CF cards I use transcend 400x 32GB cards, probably the best value for money
for a wedding though i will shoot raw to both the CF and SD for added protection
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Your dream 50mm f/1.4

avatar13 said:
I too have been shooting a bit lately with my 50 1.4 and my new Mark III and have noticed it tends to focus hunt when lighting is not optimal. So ideally I would like sharper center at 1.4 and faster and improved (low-light) AF.
lol mine hunts like a blind dog in the same circumstanses , using just the center point helps a great deal.
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Looking for EF 24-105 f4L aftermarket replacement...

SpareImp said:
Yeah, my impression is that the 24-105mm is a great lens, based on what I’ve read. But again: the copy I had didn’t convince me. It possibly could’ve benefited from MFA, but after I was aware of the problem I did some tests with manual focus, aided by LiveView, and it was still pretty soft wide open. I really want to try a new copy now, to see if I was just a bit unlucky. After all, the build quality was excellent and I do miss the weather sealing.

Regarding the Tamron 28-75mm, you are depending on getting a good copy. I did, and was also able to buy a wider prime for landscape-photography for more or less the money I saved/made from the purchase and selling of the 24-105mm. I would definitely try the Tamron out before I buy it. They do make some great lenses, but are often overlooked because of a lower re-sale value, inconsistent quality control and not-as-great build quality. I’ve read online about photographers doing blind-tests with the Tamron 28-75mm and the Canon EF 24-70mm, without being able to find a clear winner. These specific photographers skill levels are unknown, however.

I wonder off hand maybe there was some fungus or maybe the lens was dropped by the original owner and moved an element or two? That's one of my pet peeves... The last lens, way back when I bought used on ebay, the lens stunk of cigarette smoke (an old tokina)... It took literally a month for the smell to fully go away after cleaning it over and over... It operated just fine but for the first few shoots it was obnoxious. Couldn't be happier with my copy of the 24-105 for what I use it for...
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Recommendation for backpack

neuroanatomist said:
Jotho said:
But I haven't done with serious camera gear. This time I will travel with a 5D3, 24-105, a longer zoom - probably 70-300L, maybe the 35L, S100 and a 270EX.

Jotho said:
About the DryZone, I had a look at that also and it seems a bit small. Will likely go for the ProTrekker and pack the gear in plastic inside.

Can you clarify - is the backpack for your camera gear, or for your camera gear and a whole bunch of other stuff? Your 'serious camera gear' is what I'd consider a light load. The DryZone 200 interior size is just slightly larger than the Flipside 400AW. In my Flipside 400AW, I can fit a gripped body, 70-200/2.8, 100-400, three lenses the size of the 24-105mm, and a 430 flash. That means what you list would fill less than 60% of the DryZone 200.

Hi Neuro, thanks for that input. I had a look at then DryZone on the LowePro webpage and it seemed so small. Not sure it is though. 'Serious gear', well for me as an amateur and new to the game I guess I mean that I can't really afford to get it soaked in water :D . about the actual packing, what I am looking for is a backpack where I can
safely carry my gear and still some other stuff, mainly some extra clothes. I am experienced with this kind of travel, but not with photo gear. I just want to make sure I can easily reach the gear, but still keep it protected. Is it you that often recommend the Flipside? It looks good, also for using while on a motorcycle. Do you think it would stand up to tough weather? I would be able to modify it with extra rain protetion for a very small amount where I live.

Please keep in mind i'm not a native English speaker, I understand my questions might not be chrystal clear.

thanks
Jotho
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Some questions about 650D, Help me!!!

tomfu said:
1, Do the 9 cross points have a big difference compare to 600d?
It depends what you are shooting. What it will help do is lock focus faster, and its useful for shots where things are moving (people, cars, animals, etc), since it has more points to differentiate what is what.

If you were using a 600D right now, you'd probably notice it gets focus correct a little more often; but it's not what I would call a big difference (the 600D v 7D or 5dIII AF would be a BIG difference). But, as features go, it's one of the more useful areas to have an upgrade in, since the AF is one of the biggest elements that decides whether or not you get the shot.
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Anyone heard of this problem before???

Marine03 said:
I was shooting a wedding this past week and had 2 instances with my 450 where I knew I had turned it on and a min or two later, it wont do anything, no LCD turn on or focus etc, even after turning the switch on and off a few times. Then magically it came back to life. OOO and I have way less clicks than you so doubt thats the issue.

That's exactly it! makes me feel a wee bit better, though i could just mean both or cameras are dieing! :)
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Which lens lineup for 5D3?

I honestly believe that if the 24-70L II lens is as good as it is hyped up to be, there would be absolutely no reason to buy a 35 or 50 prime lens IMO. Unless you need 35 and 50 at very low lighting conditions, it would be redundant. That's why I'm not buying the 24-70L II lens right now; I have the 35L and 50L already. If money were no object and I were staring out, I'd of course have the 16-35L II, 24-70L II, and the 70-200L II. And that's all I'd shoot with for a very long time. When I first got into digital photography, I only had a 24-105L zoom lens and that's all I used for about a year. It was a great learning experience. I agree with the poster who said to then purchase a prime at a focal length that you shoot a lot but you must also consider lighting and type of photography you do. If you find yourself shooting a lot of indoor basketball for instance, get an 85 f/1.8 and the 135 f/2L and also bring your 70-200L zoom lens along. Of course, most recent cameras have such high ISO quality performance that maybe f/2.8 is wide enough even for that. Things have come a long way since my first 1D Mark III :)
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Canon EOS-1D X Manual Posted

LetTheRightLensIn said:
Here is some more info on a few scenarios:

"The Lexar 1000x honestly didn't really do any better than a Sandisk Extreme Pro 90MB/s card with a 5D2 or 7D (or surely xxD) cam but with the 5D3.... WOW. And it lets the 5D3 deliver best in class buffer and longer contrinuous shooting times than either the 5D2 or 7D.

A few numbers (all tests at 1/800th shutter, no IS, no AF, no NR or any other in cam jpg special processing options, max continuous drive mode selected (7D pointed at a bright light so as to maintain max frame rate)) with the raw number being number of shots before you hear it slow down shooting and timed number is the continuous time you could shoot non-stop at the camera's max frame rate (derived by a simple frames/max fps of camera):

Test 1 (lens cap on or super underexposed near black frames (i.e. with requiring minimum for storage) at ISO100 on 5D3):

14 shots with a slow Lexar 16GB 200x card
17 shots with a 30MB/s SanDisk Extreme III 8GB card
20 shots (3.3s) with a 32GB SanDisk Extreme Pro 90GB/s card
35 shots (5.8s) with a 32GB Lexar 1000x card (whoa! 35! vs 20! 5.8s of continuous shooting vs only 3.3s!)

(so the Lexar 1000x makes a surprisingly large difference on the 5D3 and is well worth the $ if you seriously shoot action with the 5D3, do note that the 16GB 1000x card is said to be slower than the 32GB and larger 1000x cards so the advantage may be less if you go for the 16GB size; with this speed card the 5D3 continuous shooting time easily beats the 5D2 and 7D)

Test 2 (as above but on a 5D2):
16 shots (4.1s) with a SanDisk Extreme Pro 90MB/s card
17 shots (4.3s) with a Lexar 32GB 1000x card

(so the extra $ for the Lexar 1000x makes no difference on a 5D2; with this speed card the 5D3 actually lets you shoot continuously for less long than the 5D2 or 7D)

Test 3 (as above but on a 7D):
29 shots (3.7s) with a SanDisk Extreme Pro 90MB/s card
28 shots (3.5s) with a Lexar 32GB 1000x card

(so the extra $ for the Lexar 1000x makes no difference on a 7D, same result)

Test 4 (these have an actual image being shot and the ISOs are higher so each RAW file is larger, the performance drops considerably, especially above ISO800 and NOTE that the numbers will vary depending upon the scene shot as different scenes and exposures will produce different file sizes and any given scenario may bump all the numbers noticeably up or down; all are on the Lexar 32GB 1000x card):

ISO3200 5D3 - 20 shots (3.3s) - a big drop from the 35 for ISO100 black frame
ISO1600 5D3 - 24 shots (4s)
ISO800 5D3 - 30 shots (5s)

Test 5 (as above only this time a SanDisk Extreme Pro 90MB/s card was used in all cases):

ISO3200 5D3 - 14 shots (2.3s)
ISO1600 5D3 - 20 shots (3.3s)
ISO800 5D3 - 22 shots (3.7s)

Test 6 (as above only this time a SanDisk Extreme III 30MB/s card was used):
ISO800 5D3 - 15 shots (2.5s)

So yeah for most Canon cameras the Lexar 1000x will not be worth the money at all (unless you are want to pay that much for faster transfer speed to your computer and your computer supports USB3 and you have a USB3 card read that also takes full UDMA 7 advantage) but for the 5D3 wow if you are serious about shooting action and dont want to be saddled with a shorter shooting time buffer than the old 5D2 or 7D then get the Lexar 1000x, suddenly you actually can shoot for longer times non-stop than with the 5D2 or 7D and often by a large margin. So for the 5D3 and action it is well worth it."

That is a ton of useful data. Your observations on the 5D3 using the SanDisk Extreme Pro (32GB in my case) match well to my own, 20-22 shots in the ISO 800 to 1600 range.

Since I do use the 5D3 in sports situations, the Lexar 1000+ 32GB makes sense for those conditions. I ordered one this morning for that purpose, it should be enough for my typical work, and yes, the slower observed speed of the 16GB model does not make that an option.

Now, if Canon had not capped the damn SD card speed at around 30-40 MB/sec....because that will be a bottleneck if shooting RAW backups to the SD. And it's pretty much a waste to get anything in the SanDisk Extreme Pro SD line as it's never going to reach the 95 MB/sec rate. I picked up a 64GB one on sale for video work, but could have spent less than 1/2 that for a 45MB/sec one.
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Canon EOS-1D X Availability [CR3]

emilio_n said:
stoneysnapper said:
Not sure if you were referring to my statement on the timescales or Emilio's, if you were referring to mine then I am merely using dates announcement dates which are published on DP Review to show what the update frequencies have been for previous Canon Pro Models. This was in relation to a previous answer which stated it could be 4 years to the next version of the 1Dx which in my opinion is not a duration Canon would opt for.

My statement on the timescales is just a joke. 9 months since the 1DX was announced, means that the timescale will be also 9 months shorten.

Emilio I was asking Joe J who he was referring to not you, I knew what you meant and I agree.
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Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 L USM Macro lens discontinued ???

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Its due for a update, maybe they will announce it soon, and deliver in a few years? I'm getting pretty cynical about Canon lens announcements. I am equally cynical about Sigma vaporware lenses.

Sigma Vaporware? The 150mm macro lens is a stunning lens and just got an update to include OS. For me this is the number one macro to get these days. (With the exception of the MP-E65 which is just too difficult to work with for me)
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PDF of 1DX-AF guide-Black AF Point fixed?

pwp said:
Here's the link to Canon's paper. It's there under Additional Resources.
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/1dx_guidebook.shtml
I did not see the earlier 1DX AF Guide, but this is different to what I see in the regular 1DX User Guide.

Just about every one of the colour illustrations pointedly shows a red AF point. If the focus points are in fact black, this would be highly misleading. The way this is presented, I see it as reasonable to assume that the shipping 1DX will have the hoped for red AF points.

PW

They turn red when focus is acquired and you are using one shot AF. Do you also think the surrounding ones are blue?

The original manual has the same.

BTW, there are no blue AF points either.
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