Eye-controlled AF is coming to more EOS R cameras, but you’ll have to be patient
It's been working absolutely well in 2000 even on cheap EOS 30 film bodies. Just why did it disappear????
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I have the 24-105 L and the 24-240 "not L". And, since most of the time my photos have a subject somewhere towards the center 2/3rd of the frame, and the outer 1/3rd is bokeh anyway, I end up using the 24-240 almost always (when choosing between the two). (But at this point, I mostly use my Canon rig almost exclusively with specialty lenses (super tele, super WA, etc.), since I use my iPhone for walking around).I found the RF24-105 to be always a good enough focal length range whereas the 24-70 never was long enough.
In the 90s we really needed f/2.8 to fully enable autofocus, to have a bright viewfinder, and because fast film and slow shutter speeds looked absolutely horrible, and because film was anyway so grainy and lenses less sharp that the blurriness from shallow DOF wasn't so obvious. In contrast, with the R and especially R5, there's just no reason for f/2.8. Photos are so clean and sharp that the gentler bokeh from f/4 is still really noticeable and makes your subject stand out, and still is enough to differentiate the look from a cell phone photo. Super-high ISO and super-long shutters are no longer a problem, and AF works fine and the viewfinder brightness no longer depends on f-stop.
On an R5 the 24-105 is actually almost "smallish".
When I first got the R I got the 24-105 and 50/1.2, and after a year had only taken like three photos with the 50! So I sold it. After about 4 years with only the 24-105, I got a bunch of other lenses last year (I used to have 15 EF lenses in the 90s-10s) and don't use the 24-105 much but mainly because I have other lenses to explore. But frankly most of my good pictures would have been nearly as good with the 24-105.
If I hit hard times and had to sell most of my Canon gear, the 24-105 would be the last lens I'd sell. It's not a lens I love, but it's one that really works well for everything except obviously telephoto. It's not super-wide but it's wide enough. It's not super-sharp but it's sharp enough. It's not super-bokeh but its enough bokeh. It's not super-compact but it's compact enough, etc. etc.
Straight 10 for your deep-dive into the physics of this.The lenses have focus breathing since they focus in part by changing their focal length rather than move the whole lens away from the the sensor as they did in the good old days with bellows. The stated focal length is for infinity focus and it gets shorter for nearer objects. I actually measured the focal length of the RF 100-500mm from the size of the image of the moon on the sensor of the R5. The diameter of 3,474.8 km when it was 400,403.56 km away gave a diameter of 990 pixels. If the pixels are 4.39µ as usually stated (TDP etc), this gives a focal length of 500.8mm. However, they calculate the pixel size based assuming the image occupies the whole of the 24x36mm sensor. If I use instead Canon's stated value of 47.1 Mpx on the sensor, instead of the 44.76 Mpx that are actually used, the pixel size is 4.28µ and the calculated focal length 488mm. I'd be grateful if someone could tell me the true pixel size.
Bhphotovideo.com has an open box one for sale right now
ExactlyThe main drawback is you'll get more distortion with 35-350L, but the used price on it and the 1D iv are so low, that if it doesn't work out and you want to resell it, I don't imagine you'd lose much money.
I've started to take the brick stories with a grain of salt though. I mean I saw one poster here upset that he had to format his card in order to get the firmware update to read properly. While I believe bricking cameras is definitely a thing, I also think there could be more to each story in terms of people following Canon's instructions precisely.Not defending Canon here, but I wonder how they compare with Sony, Nikon and Panasonic regarding "technical oversights". It's a very competitive market, where goods have to be rushed out and are increasingly complex, so I'd imagine that the other brands have similar issues.
Given how it ended you didn't miss much.Somehow I missed all the news of this despite being on the forum 2-3x a week since 2018...
Sorry, I think I honed in on the possible time code issue after some Googling. However, Netflix gives some guidance. But it seems you may need an approved camera to serve as the primary. https://partnerhelp.netflixstudios....d-Cameras-Recommended-Settings-Best-PracticesCurious as to how the R5C is Netflix approved but the C200 is not. Anyone care to fill me in, and if so much appreciated!
I bought about half my lenses used. Even of my current outfit, I think only the 100-500 and 135/1.8 are new, the rest are used. It's not like used EF is suddenly unavailable. The main reason I wouldn't use EF is that in most cases the RF glass seems to bury it quality-wise. My 135/2 was the sharpest black Canon lens except maybe the 180/3.5, and possibly the 35/1.4 MkII, but the 100-500 is far sharper, as is the 100/2.8, and the 135/1.8 is massively sharper.EF lenses used the fill the middle until most were discontinued.
Sorry. It means they might be unbiased. They may also be completely unbiased.Reviewers make money through affiliate link purchases. Positive reviews benefit them. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re dishonest, but it does mean they’re not unbiased.
It was 6 years ago, visiting Sabah. I had a 5DIV + EF 400mm f/4 DO II + extenders, my wife a 5DSR + EF 100-400mm II. I don't recall paying camera fees then. The only thing that worried me was keeping the weight of the hand luggage for the plane within limits as we were told the cheaper internal flights would weigh the cases. If we were to go again, I would take the R5 and 100-500mm and my wife the R7 and RF 100-400mm for birding and also for bugs. We paid for an excellent local bird guide who arranged it all for us.Hi Alan,
Digging up an old thread here. I am planning a trip to Borneo. What did you take? What camera fees did you have to pay? The rules seem a bit weird to me.
I was thinking of taking my r5, 100-500, 70-200 f2.8 and 15-35. I was thinking about leaving the 24-70 at home and am up in the air about my 100mm macro.
I am interested in wildlife, landscapes and bugs. Any tips?
H-Jones! Can you please explain, step by step, just how to achieve allocation of the C1 customised shooting mode to the Multi-Function button? I have been trying to do this, and failure to achieve it is driving me MAD. (With my old 7D and 400mm telephoto is was able to toggle the mode dial until it stopped - because it could go no further. This could be done without taking my eye off the bird/birds that suddenly, as they often do, provide an opportunity for a shot/shots - if you're fast enough. The 7D enabled my BIF settings to be acquired without taking my eyes off it/them as the camera came up to a shooting position. an't do that - yet - with the R5.....) When I get to the customize buttons, in a bid to set the MF button for that purpose, I get a message at the bottom of the screen that registering for C1-C3 not doable. Please, what am I doing wrong?Professionally I'm a photojournalist that primarily covers breaking news, but I also do a lot of landscape and wildlife photography in my free time for fun. Most of my custom control choices come from what I need the camera to do on a work assignment since I really don't have time to dig in a menu.
Custom Buttons
Custom Dials
- Shutter button: Default, Metering and AF start
- Video button: Default, video start
- Mode button: Default, mode
- AF-ON: AF-off, I've always done this, I know people like back-button focus, but I photograph a lot of sudden, unexpected action at breaking news and I like knowing that the shutter is always linked to autofocusing, so that I don't end up hitting the shutter before focusing. Instead of back-button focus, I use the AF-ON button to turn off focus for times when I need a similar autofocus stop that you'd get using backbutton focus on a shot.
- AE Lock: Cropping/aspect ratio, I love that this makes it as easy as pressing a button to get the 17 megapixel 1.6x digital teleconverter mode. I've loved using the crop mode on wildlife so far, and setting it to a button makes it easier to switch in a second if the subject gets closer. Lot easier than digging through a menu.
- AF point button: Drive mode, with the different restrictions on FPS and bit-rate in drive modes in the R5 I find myself changing the drive more often, so I wanted a button dedicated to that.
- DOF preview button: One-Shot / Servo AF, I've always had this set like this on all of my Canon cameras. There's just certain situations where you want the confirmation of knowing your focus is locked, and this is a lot quicker for sudden situations where servo focus won't work. Normally, on other cameras, I have it only use one-shot when it's held down, but the R5 doesn't offer the condition that it only switches when the button is held, unfortunately. That just means I have to remember to click it twice to get back to Servo focus.
- Lens: Default, AF stop
- My favorite: M-FN Button: Switch to Custom Shooting Mode, set to C1 only, other C modes turned off. C1: Shutter Priority, 1/1000th, 12 FPS, Spot meter, auto ISO. Again photographing breaking news means things can go very badly in an instant. I like this button as my "emergency" button, all I have to do is hit M-FN and I instantly know I'll have a high enough shutter speed and automatic exposure to get an image of whatever is in front of the camera. That gives me more freedom to use slower shutter speeds when there's not much going on, knowing that in an instant I can have the camera properly exposed at 1/1000th if something blows up.
- LCD panel button: LCD illumination, I switched it to this because I never use the secondary display it offers by default, and this makes the button act more like the LCD light button on DSLRS.
- SET: ISO, hold button turn shutter, I've always done this on all of my Canon cameras, I always hated having to fish for the ISO button to change ISO, so this makes it a lot faster to do. I know the R5 has a dial just for ISO now, but I've left this button as ISO because it's stuck in my muscle memory and I find myself doing this instinctively anyway. If I get used to the dial, this might find a new use.
- Multicontroller, AF point selection
- Main dial, default, Shutter
- Top dial(Quick Control Dial 2), ISO speed
- Rear dial(Quick Control Dial 1), Aperture setting
- Lens Control Wheel: Select AF method, this has been a new favorite of mine. I love the Subject detection tracking autofocus mode on the R5, it works awesome and finds eyes/people/birds/everything very well and lets me reframe as much as I want, or lets a bird fly through the frame while being tracked. The issue is, sometimes this mode gets wonky in weird conditions, and if you change to One-Shot focus, it uses the whole sensor as an automatic detect one-shot mode. That's super annoying, I wish it was still based off of your initial focus point for one-shot. I don't have time when I'm taking a photo to change focus settings to switch to one-shot mode, so the moment I need one-shot or the tracking focus isn't working well, I can quickly hit the dial on the lens left or right and switch between the AF point focus or tracking focus. I disabled most of the AF modes except subject detection, default point, and expanded point focus, which makes it even easier to switch. I'll also add that the nice thing with the direct method is that it has "hard stops" on the left and right ends of the settings list, so if I roll the wheel left it'll always stop at AF tracking, and if I roll the wheel right it'll always stop at expanded AF point. Super intuitive to me and I love this set up a lot.