Looking for opinions (good & bad) on photog whom r using quantum external power packs with canon flash.
Have heard can cause some damage to flash unit . Considering the "blade" model so I will not need a cable from battery pack on my belt connecting to the flash. thnx pete

What Neuro said.
Another advantage of back button focus on the 5D MK3 is it enables Zeiss manual lenses (at least the 35mm F/2 I have) to focus pretty damned accurately.

1) Tap shutter to meter.
2) Push and keep AF-ON button engaged.
3) Rotate focus ring slowly until focus highlight turns red and camera beeps.

I'm shooting at F/2.8 and F/4 and so far it works very reliably

ET

Greatland said:

I have used SanDisc cards since I switched from film to digital cameras. I shoot a 1Dx and a MKIV.....what is the absolute best card that I can put in my cameras?

Click to expand...

Be careful on the 1D MK IV, SD speeds are indeed hampered by the controller (in the camera). So doesn't matter what card you put in beyond a 20MB/s card, you'll find no difference. Which means if you are writing to both then the SD is a "bottleneck"

Both the MK IV and the 1DX can do UDMA 7 in CF so the latest cards will give you the best performance. Of course this is more in terms of how quick the camera flushes to the memory card. I recently tried a 60MB/s CF vs 30MB/s on the MK IV and was pleasantly surprised by the difference

Finally, you perhaps might want to consider trading off size of memory card vs speed. By this I mean I'm not happy with more than 8GB card for normal (16GB for sports nature) on the basis of how much data I am prepared to lose should a card fail. I've only had 1 CF fail - a transcend, which failed before I used it in anger (failed during soak testing)

Best therefore does depend, as mentioned, on your needs...

mikezphoto said:

Here is what I love about the 5D3 ....

Am I just oblivious to problems or a lot of people just suffering from "the grass is always greener" syndrome because of the rave reviews the D800 gets on websites like DXO?

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You've summed it up very well. I don't have problems with the 5D3 either, other than the black AF points. It is the best wedding camera I've ever used. DxO doesn't shoot weddings, so their ratings don't reflect important camera features that matter to me. I have lots of D800 files from a 2nd shooter and they are wonderfully detailed (if you make giant-sized prints), but the color is not as pleasing as from the 5D3. And Nikon doesn't have the medium raw file size option or the new flashes with built in radio.

A second hand 1ds mark iii. No idea why so many forget that.

I eventually want exactly that to go with my 7d. The 5d3 is out, I'll have more benefit with a 1d body. If that's the same for you, have a look. I know keh normally have some. Other options are a 1d mark iii maybe, but only because they're cheaper and the mark iv is still very expensive even second hand. However... It's not like its not worth looking.

I'm thinking one attractive value proposition for these guys is to use them remotely as slaves while keeping a genuine Speedlite as the master. Cost is attractive to buy two or three of the yongnuo's and you're still well below the cost of one speedlite. Use the Speedlite Master for fill (off camera using Syl's OCF ETTL cord), a pair of yonguos as the key, and a third Yonguo as a hair light. or if you are outdoors, use all four flashes together to fight the sun (key), a 5-in-one reflector for fill -- and you still have three light sources using the sun itself for the hairlight.

There are lots of good parts left, sell it for parts on ebay, and it may allow repair of several other lenses.

This is my first attempt of video on the Canon 5D Mark III.
Alot of room for improvement but I've been inspired by some of the people here to give it a go.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fergalocallaghan/8265738680/#secretfc61824cd1in/photostream

great video and review..

Canon 6D vs Nikon D600 vs 5D Mark III

Mine is loud too. It's normal for this lens.

Jesse said:

"When you are talking about the same framing, focal length and subject distance have equal and opposite effects, and thus they cancel each other out. When comparing lenses of different focal lengths for the same framing, DoF is determined only by aperture. So at f/2.8 for the same framing, there's no DoF difference between the 100mm Macro and the 135L, but the 135L can open up to f/2 meaning it can achieve a shallower DoF for the same framing."

Mind blown. So would this work for all lenses? Eg. a 24mm and 200mm?

Click to expand...

24mm f/4, 200mm f/4, 600mm f/4 - for the same FoV, the DoF will be the same (mostly...at very wide angles, the relationship breaks down a little bit, but even then it's <10% difference). Obviously, you'll be further away, the longer the lens. Also, different rules apply at macro distances (1:1 or close to it).

Not familiar with Tamron lenses. All I know is that I sold my Canon 70-200mm I to buy the II....and ever since then....every time I shoot with it and pull the images up on screen...I say
.."This photo is so sharp, I can't believe this is a f*#king zoom lens!!!!!"
I think it has to do with the contrast, too.
I can't say for sure as I have not tried the Tamron..but I will bet that it just does not have that WOW factor. My old version one did not have that WOW factor either.
Is the WOW factor necessary? No....but it is really nice to have!!!!!
I am sure that the Tamron is a very descent lens.

McCardie09 said:

I'm looking to sell at least one of my lenses but I'm stuck on which one. I shoot with a Canon 7d and here are the the lenses I have:

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

Canon EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS II USM

Tamron AF18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di-II VC

I just got the Canon 17-55 and I love it so I know I'm keeping that one. If it helps, 90% of the time I shoot family, baby/children and high school senior portraits.

Click to expand...

Is there a trick behind your question? This is ALMOST no brainer.......sell that Tammy

http://www.lenscoat.com/lenscoat®-canon-200400-p-1917.html?osCsid=a00e709987a0fa561de57d0b872a91ef
No price or date yet, but a very nice photo.

Pinchers of Peril said:

That is awesome!!! You should have painted on an IS button as well

Click to expand...

Regrettably, it is not mine

Sir laser was use many years before
but if You like learn please please read below ( I call this discovery below explain You why )

Why my GPS is cheaper ( I no need Nasa and GPS satelittes ) !!! My camera not cooporate with outside objecsts (how much cheaper I dont know) When You measure Earth Velocity
You always will be sure Your position ( the same vector but not the same position = different brightness special and only one ) Traditional GPS not work underground my without problem Underground You can measure Earth Velocity and Your own angle to velocity )

Why I want contact with canon or nikon ?
( they not have submit idea on web so I try forum !)

this what I done = new algoritms for measure where is Target ,
power of light -
I explain new mistake reason any instruments ( not only optica )

please read below and learn if You like know what I done and why I done ?

all books have below words ( main rules for physics ) ( below stars book's word after stars my own )

*********************************************************************************
" Galileo postulated his relativity hypothesis:

any two observers moving at constant speed and direction with respect to one another will obtain the same results for all mechanical experiments

(it is understood that the apparatuses they use for these experiments move with them).

In pursuing these ideas Galileo used the scientific method (Sec. 1.2.1): he derived consequences of this hypothesis and determined whether they agree with the predictions.

This idea has a very important consequence: velocity is not absolute. This means that velocity can only be measured in reference to some object(s), and that the result of this measurment changes if we decide to measure the velocity with respect to a diferent refernce point(s). Imagine an observer traveling inside a windowless spaceship moving away from the sun at constant velocity. Galileo asserted that there are no mechanical experiments that can be made inside the rocket that will tell the occupants that the rocket is moving . The question ``are we moving'' has no meaning unless we specify a reference frame (``are we moving with respect to that star'' is meaningful). This fact, formulated in the 1600's remains very true today and is one of the cornerstones of Einstein's theories of relativity."
**************************************************
MAROSZ DISCOVERY my words

please read what I done on my blog

http://tesla2.blogspot.com/

after this please read below and think where is true !!!

EARTH = SPACESHIP
We always travel in Universe 220 km/s ! and 30 km/s
Our rocket is very big and heavy has windows - we can see stars - We have a lot of space inside this is reason why we not feel like in ROCKET

What is Our velocity in Universe ?

" My train move or my station move? "
Can we use only outside stars ?

We move or stars move ?

MAROSZ IDEA : We can create small but own star
( One laser beam can be Internal star ? Why not , we knew power of light , main direction of light and move, Luminous Intensity )

GALILEO , EINSTEIN , MACH , NEWTON - IMPOSSIBLE !!!!

MAROSZ - I done this 08/09 of October 2012 ( everyone can repeat !!!) it is EASY

AudioGlenn said:

this is all good info. I'm selling my 10-22, 24-105, and 60D as well. I already have the 24-70 II but I think I need to take my lenses to Canon (down the street) to get everything calibrated. Do you guys think I should just get FoCal instead?.... or both Canon Service and use FoCal?

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I'd first do a AFMA. (Get FoCal). Only consider having Canon adjust your lens if it has a actual problem. Canon will put the lens on a reference body like a 5D MK III and calibrate it to that body. Your body might still be different, so don't bother. The next new body you get will need a different adjustment, so just use FoCal.

pengyifei said:

code UA0610

Click to expand...

= June 2012 much easier to decode than the serial number

I think the 100/2 is one of Canon's most underrated lenses. I prefer it to the 85/1.8 on FF. I found the focal length to be better for portraits, and the IQ, AF and sharpness are excellent.

I currently have the Sigma 85/1.4, but as good as it is I'm considering selling it and getting the 100/2 again.

Marsu42 said:

Fyi: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/11/canon-24-70-mk-ii-variation

I think this is really interesting and deserves a post over here, because Roger comes to the conclusion that even though the data shows a large variation, the real world difference (well, with the current mp count on Canon) is very small - though shows when pixel peeping or comparing a "good" 24-70 against a "bad" 70-200 or vice versa.

I think most people realize there is sample variation. But this provides a nice illustration showing just how random a test report comparing just one copy of each lens can be. Don’t get me wrong; those reports are totally worthwhile.

But we have to be really careful splitting hairs with camera lenses. With 70 copies tested, I’m comfortable the average (mean) resolution of the 24-70 Mk II is slightly higher than the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II at 70mm. But that difference is much less than the sample variation

Click to expand...

I'm wondering how much the difference between lenses will show up when used on the upcoming high mp ff sensors, or when being (dual-)used on crop with higher pixel density?

Click to expand...

I am not a scientist or necessarily a Canon fanboy (Check my lens list), but I recently bought a Canon 24-70 II(with reservations regarding price vs "variations" in individual lenses). To my eye, (which is getting old...LOL), the sharpness on my 5D III compares to my Sigma 50mm @F/2.8. I think that that is pretty incredible for any zoom lens.

I had the same with my 7D, turned out it was an issue with the focus system. The beast way to see if you have the same is to take the same picture once with live view and once with normal autofocus. The lieve view would be spot on, the normal focus would randomly miss the subject with several meters. I sent it to canon for repairs within the warranty period and it's always spot on ever since; I now keep 9/10 images, while I used to get only 5/10 in focus. with the ones missing now being hard to catch subjects or due to too long shutter speeds.

rafaelsynths said:

I'm mostly interested in the wifi and I mostly shoot in manual mode so the autofocus points don't mean anything to me haha. Upgrading from a film canonet camera.

Click to expand...

* This is probably the combo I'm going to get - but you're throwing part of the money away because apart from the better corner sharpness the 24-70ii has the added advantage of the most precise af system, but only in combination with a 1dx/5d3.

* Even if you mf a good af system might help with focus confirmation, so the 5d3/1dx should still have the edge if you use that.

* If mf'ing the 6d has the big advantage of taking a replacement screen, like the 1dx, but unlike the 5d3. For other advantages of the 6d see here: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=11309.0

* Read this: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/11/canon-24-70-mk-ii-variation

There is one thing that somehow disturbs me. The guy in the house is far away from the bride, she seems to be unreachable for him from his point, even with this huge kitchen knife. One could have placed him on either side of the house looking around the corner. This might have added some ""realism"" to the image...

I see BHPhoto and Amazon have the Canon SX260 for quite cheap at $199. Any thoughts on if that is an Xmas discount or inventory clearing price, preparing for an update?

I'm mostly curious if people think the successor in the ultra-zoom point-and-shoot category will just have some marginal improvements here and there ... say 14 or 16MP, or something more revolutionary [touch screen interface? controls revamped, appreciably bigger sensor/better ISO?].

At $199/small size, I'm ok buying/carrying it as a one-trick-pony ... 500mm zoom. Eventhough I'm pretty confident I'll feel the pictures will look very flat ... they're better than nothing. But I'd also be fine spending $300-$350 for something tangibly better.

Also, is it easy to do exposure compensation on this camera? I hate not having EV control on a dial. That and Aperture priority + easy to change f-stop are my two key control concerns.


[context: I often carry around my trusty G10. I have some mid-level Nikon SLRs/lenses but am looking at the D600 once the dust/oil issue is resolved ... I've been interested in something with more tele- than the G10 I can use casually ... small/cheap and can keep in the backpack permanently. It looks like it also uses the same battery as my PowerShot D10, another "one trick pony" ... that's also a benefit.]


Thanks for any thoughts or feedback.

--psb