How to LOCK Exposure with only the Shutter-button MarkIII?

traveller said:
Here's another question, if you use the default AE lock (i.e. * button), is there any way to disable it without turning the camera off and the back on? Maybe I'm being stupid, but I've never found a way! (Personally, I generally use back button AF, with AF disabled on the shutter button and AE lock on half press).

You have to set the shutter to AE lock while pressed, then the * button will do the same.
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Carl Zeiss ZE Apo Sonnar T* 135 f/2 Announced

Last week I phoned one shop in Helsinki and asked when the Zeiss 135 mm APO Sonnar will be available. Availability was on December, so I thought that they would now know more detailed date. They said that they got news letter from importer that new APO Sonnar will we available on January 2013.

Maybe on meantime I'll buy older C/Y version of 135 mm Sonnar... :P
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New RED One Price

Mt Spokane Photography said:
Its only part of a camera, when you put all the pieces together, the price is a bit more, in fact, a lot more.
All camera manufacturers are hurting for sales. Prices will keep dropping.

But for $5000 + lenses you have a workable kit. Sure maybe if you want to do documentary stuff it's not the best option. But it pretty much burys the c100-c300 for dramatic work.

https://vimeo.com/25482306

^You can't get images like that with Canon gear, no matter how much you pay.

I've been kind of a RED hater for years, but this pricing move totally flipped the script for me.
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SenScore.org

dr croubie said:
There's a very good Firefox Add-On that I use, called Ad-Block Plus.
In short, it blocks ads.
But one very useful side-effect of it is that you can see *exactly* what sites are looked up on each web page. You'd be surprised how many websites are referenced on one single page.

Anyway, there's the "big" 3rd-party advertisers that are on almost every page, google ads, tribalfusion, doubleclick.net and all the rest. Just block these 3rd-party sites and you block most ads.

You know what's interesting about www.senscore.org?
They don't use a 3rd-party advertiser. There are No links to anything else on their page.

You know what that means?
Those ads for nikon aren't just random "it's a camera page so we'll assign it a camera ad" links like you get on place like here.
Those ads for nikon reside on the same website as the scores.

You know what that means?
Nikon are paying that site directly.


nikonfail.

Now, if they are paying for one site they may as well pay for another ::) (just saying there is an "if' in the beginning of the sentence)
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G1x Vs. G15

I've the G1x and a G12. I upgraded to the G1x for the IQ and am not disappointed. The G15 has a closer macro, but one can easily purchase a macro lens or filters. The G1x is not going to fit in your trouser pocket and the G15 will. Thought about replacing the G12 with a G15 for when I wish pocket carry, but the lack of an articulated screen has been holding me back.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
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EF-M 55mm f/1.3 Coming in 2013? [CR1]

louislbnc said:
One of the primary thing that determines the noise level is the pixel size.

Actually, pixel size in and of itself has no bearing whatsoever on noise. Once again, it's entirely a question of (absolute) enlargement.

The only reason pixel size appears to relate to noise is that people like to compare noise at a 100% pixel view. But, right there, you're now comparing different enlargements. A 36 megapickle full-frame camera has twice the linear resolution as a 9 megapickle full-frame camera. To compare the noise, you'd need to either show the one at a 50% view (turning the noisy small pixels into unnoticeable fine-grained smoothness) or the other at 200% view (thus making the noise in those big pixels much nastier and blotchier). Or, much better, by actually making prints and comparing the prints. But, then again, your 24" x 36" print (or whatever) is going to be done at 300 ppi by the one camera and only 150 ppi by the other.

The short version is that there will be the exact same S/N ratio (all else being equal) between the two; you just get to pick between more fine-grained noise or less large-grained noise. If it helps, imagine scanning film at different resolutions; the grain is still there no matter what, and all you get to do is decide how faithfully you want to render the grain.

And, of course, the usual engineering caveats apply. Newer cameras are made with more megapickles and thus smaller pixels, yes, but also with newer and better and more efficient electronics that's therefore less prone to noise. And there may well be engineering matters that make it easier to design bigger circuitry and so forth.

Cheers,

b&
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5dm3 picture style for video

I've experimented with all the 3rd party Picture Styles, Cinestyle, and the built-ins. I hated Cinestyle, it made post a real pain in the ass. Out of the 3rd parties I like Cineform/Lightform. Built ins I generally stick with Faithful, Sharpness at 1, Contrast and Saturation at -2, I stick with this when I'm trying to keep color correction to a minimum.

In general, keep the sharpness as low as possible and the contrast/saturation down. Like it was mentioned before, make sure your white balance is spot on because there is a limited amount of color correction work you can do so you don't want to waste too much of it getting the white balance to the right place.
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Rebel t4i - near 10% price increase??

on Amazon and else where, body only went up from 739.00 to 799.00 overnight. Wonder if this is Canon's new pricing policy.

I remember back in the '70's electronics mgfrs would fix the min price I forgot the term for it,,, Fair Trade or some such thing in the USA. Then it was declared illegal....it was restraint of trade..... you can't tell someone else what to charge..... Now it seems like they've found away around it. BTW, looks like a fine entry level camera, but I will not pay 800.00 for body only Rebel....no way.

Portrait Lens

neuroanatomist said:
sdsr said:
...portraits at a wide aperture you might find yourself hooked by what you can achieve that way (and not just on people - flowers, pets, buildings etc. can all benefit) and wish the 24-105 were faster than f/4 (I seldom use my 24-105 for that reason, excellent though it otherwise is).

Indeed. I use the 24-105mm for portraits when I have a studio-type backdrop, in which case I'm using f/8-10 with strobes in softboxes, and it's great:


EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM @ 105mm, 1/200 s, f/9, ISO 100

You can get a nicely blurred background with f/4, but you've got to be really close to the subject, and ideally have a relatively distant background:


EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM @ 105mm, 1/160 s, f/4, ISO 100

But for portraits (since that's the title of the thread), I'd really recommend the 135L over either the 24-105L or 100L Macro, assuming you're shooting FF. It's great for melting the background in action shots, too:


EOS 5D Mark II, EF 135mm f/2L USM, 1/1600 s, f/2.2, ISO 100

Of course, if you want to really melt out a background, try the 85L - it's great for portraits on both FF and APS-C:


EOS 5D Mark II, EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM @ 1/60 s, f/1.8, ISO 400


EOS 7D, EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM, 1/2000 s, f/1.6, ISO 100
Neuro, these made me smile, totally captured the sweetness and beauty of this child in these photos!
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Canon Can't Even Make a Billion Dollars Anymore

Doesn't affect this amateur a whit; as for pros, I'll defer opinions on that to you pros. If I can afford it and the Director of Acquisitions (my wife) is okay with it, I'll buy it. I'll shop around and then find a way to pay over time for no interest if it's a big slug of bucks. Dealers will find a way to add value to the deal to make for an attractive package at Canon's MAP. I don't mind using 'last year's technology' if it works for me. In a year the 5dIII won't suddenly stop taking nice photos, anymore than my 40D did after getting a 60D. Improved lenses are a different animal, the best is really worth ponying up for. I can see that MAP may help smaller and more local retailers who find it difficult to compete with the big boys.
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24-105L Lens Creep

Just posted in another thread.

But if you wrap a Livestrong bracelet at an angle so that only half is on the zoom ring and the other half is on the barrel, it adds enough friction so that it stops the zoom creeping. It does add more friction to the overall ease to go between the different focal lengths, but you can adjust it by sliding the bracelet on or off more.

I havent tried it with the 24-105L lens as I dont have enough creep to make me care about it but it works wonderfully on my 24-70L lens.
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