This is simply amazing!

Unfortunately, most of us don't have this kind of dedication or patience.... and not all subjects could be shot this way.

Thanks for sharing!

wickidwombat said:

consider just getting the phottix odins

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I'd go for these too when in doubt - the new canon tech still doesn't support remote 2nd curtain x-sync!

If the Tamron was previously used on the Sony, it would mean that its a Sony mount, so no, unfortunately it would not mount on a Canon body


There MIGHT be adaptors available, but not sure how good/how useful

There are no cameras and you want grips? ;D

I have had the 60d and got rid of it within the first month of ownership. AF problems during low light, dead pixels and a shutter which I believe was on it's way to giving major problems. Granted, it could have been a lemon I would say wait for the 600d replacement rather and save some money on the xxd range to spend towards lenses

Market share is a cold comfort when you've just spent thousands on a new camera and it all goes South. Then to top it all instead of assistance you get arrogance. This made me take my money to Nikon. Now I am by no means a Canon hater. I just refuse to support people who have no time for me when I have issues with a product which they manufactured.

Daniel Flather said:

Jon Gilchrist said:

Just for fun, I went back through the camera listings on DPReview and based on past new body announcement dates, here's what I predict for the next announcements:

650D 5/6/2012
70D 2/24/2012
5D3 10/14/2011
1D5 10/26/2011
1Ds4 1/31/2010 (obviously way overdue)

I have no guess on a 7D2 because it's the only model in that line.

My methodology: I took the average number of days between announcements for a given line and added that number to the last announcement date.

For what it's worth, there have been zero announcements in months 4, 5, 6, 7, 11 and 12. Other months as follows:

January, 2
February, 6
March, 1
August, 9
September, 5
October, 1

So August is usually the month to watch, probably between the 19th & 26th, then September sometime.

I didn't include the 1xxx line, or the D30 and D60.

Not that I really care, I'm not looking to upgrade anytime soon. I love my 60D.

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Your scientific announcement date prediction needs moar work.

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Daniel - how did you digg this 10 months old post? ;D Do you have it in your calendar? You're dangereous man

and while you are at it, it will shipping the 1DX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:

Thanks.
My assumption was mostly correct, save for the long exposure NR.

t.linn said:

The ol' "only affects users who leave the lens cap on" bit may make you feel better about your 5D3 but even a cursory investigation will demonstrate that this is simply not true. There are plenty of examples where this design/manufacturing flaw (take your pick) makes a difference. Here's one:

http://www.cameratown.com/reviews/canon5dMKIII/light_leak.cfm

Now obviously this isn't an issue that's going to affect most users most of the time. If it were, it would have never made it past the testing period w/o being corrected. But it can be a problem and should be fixed. Smug comments implying that people actually taking photographs won't be affected is wrong.

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You do realize that the behavior that's shown in that link is how ALL TTL SLRs behave. Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, it doesn't matter. Nor does the model. When you remove your eye from the view finder, you allow more light to enter the viewfinder which is where the meter is, as a result the meter reading changes. This has been the case going back to well as long as cameras have had metering mounted in the viewfinder and is, in part, why SLRs have built-in viewfinder shutters or covers to black out the viewfinder.

Edit to add:

This is exactly the problem with "cursory investigations" when it comes to cameras, or any other complex system, when you don't control all of the variables you have no idea what is actually going on, and any conclusion you draw from the test is just as likely to be incorrect as it is to be correct. And just because you don't think the environment is such that there is sufficient light entering the viewfinder to affect the metering doesn't mean that there isn't.

A very thought-provoking and thoughtful review. I'm not sure if the final test of camera build holds up though. While I can appreciate that a 3yo maybe tougher on a camera body than a sledge-hammer wielded by an 11 stone man, I really think that both camera bodies should have undergone the sledge-hammer test . . . in fact we should demand it!

Yeah, and with our luck maybe the 1DC will out before the 1DX!!!!!

:-[

Well if the mkiii is indeed being recalled, i guess it mean the mkii will live officially a bit longer

THIS is the camera the C300 *should* have been. It's an impressive and rich feature set. Unfortunately, I bet it will cost closer to $30K.... :-\

As for the EOS 1D C....it's just a 1Dx with a much better codec/chipset. Allowing for 4K capture and Full HD capture at 60fps...for an extra $8K

Yes, it did not do what I wanted either. Maybe a bump in the thread will attract other users' input.

altenae said:

Everybody is defending his gear.

Both are good cameras.
Buy what you need.

For me (will say it again) the AF of the 5D mark III rocks.
And yes I also have the 1D mark IV.

And when focal length is NO issue then the 5D mark III will deliver better IQ.

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This isn't defending the gear - this is reputing the myths that get uttered about other kit to justify their own purchases.

To say that the only differences between a 1d4 and a 5DIII apart from fps is pure bunkum. The metering on the AF point is significant for the majority of shooters and to be dismissed as 'trivial' is nonsense.

On the other hand you will have seen me sugesting the 5DIII is a better buy than a 1Ds3.

I have nothing against a 5DIII as I believe it is an excellent camera, but it does get on my goat when Rockwellisms are uttered to rubbish a body.

Currently, I own the Rebel t2i with the 17-55, which fits my needs. However, I'd like to delve into FF. I am pretty much dead set on getting the Mark III. Question is whether I should get the body only or the kit. I currently own the 50 1.4, 85 1.8 and 135L. I mainly shoot indoor, low light type concerts but also bring it out for family events, vacations, walking around during the day type situations. For the low light shows, I don't really take many pictures of the actual show. During the performance, I'm usually video taping. The pictures come into play before and after when the artists need their pictures taken.

1) I was leaning towards the kit because I figure I can sell the 24-105 if I don't like it. I hear the lens is pretty decent all around but it's a slower lens so it probably won't work for my indoor, low light concerts. However, I do tend to use flash at these shows so maybe the fact that the lens is relatively slow won't matter at all since I have an available light source in the flash readily available.

2) On the other hand, I can just get the body and use my existing primes on the Mark III until the 24-70 II comes out. And I can keep my Rebel with the 17-55 and use two bodies for the concerts. Also, with this setup, I was thinking I could pick up a UWA/WA prime like the 24L II or 35L, or something versatile like the 16-35. Or maybe even take a chance and leave the 17-55 at home and use the 24L on the crop body and use the 85 or 135 on the FF. As I said before, I guess at these concerts, I'm taking more portraits of the artists and others more than the actual performance. And I know the traditional portrait range is like 70-135 or something like that. However, I feel that in an interior area, the portraits I take are usually in the 25-45 range, hence why I would use the 24L or 16-35L on a crop to take the portraits and the 85 or 135L on the FF for long-range type circumstances that might pop up.

Sorry for the long-winded post. Does this seem logical? What would other people do, especially low light concert photographers.

Re: Cinema EOS 1D & EOS C500 for NAB

Ranga said:

This is what the Sony FS700 has to offer for $8000 but 4k would come as a firmware upgrade that has to be purchased.

This is what u get for the price......

BNC connector offers 3G/HD-SDI and a planned future firmware upgrade will enable 4K data-stream output

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Yeah, I love that Sony put out their specs originally to get people to go "holy crap, 4k video for $8k", and then the truth is that they took the RED approach. For an additional x thousand dollars, you can get a camera that actually does what its supposed to do. With proprietary connections that change your workflow

Also, I figured to get that kind of FPS, they've be giving up on something...looks like low ISO is what they gave up. Should be a good camera for someone shooting action, but, impractical for most other shoots.

spielberg said:

Thanks for the advice guys. The kit lens with a good prime sounds good. I'm actually still deciding whether to go for the Canon or the Panasonic GH2 which I've been recommended by a friend who's been shooting films a lot longer than I have.

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Part of it depends on your work. You'll probably get a more cinematic look with the 5D, but, the GH2 (hacked) has much better resolution and sharpness. If you're doing narrative work, its one thing (go 5D). If you're doing event shooting and some corporate stuff, the GH2 might be the way to go. Plus, you'll save $1000 on the body and you can use it to get even nicer lenses (Zeiss, Nikon AI-s, etc).

I ultimately went with my 60D over the GH2 because I use it for stills as much as video, and the GH2 is not as well reviewed on the stills end. But if I was doing 90% video, I'd have a GH2 with a Nikon adapter and a bunch of the older Nikkor glass

briansquibb said:

This applies to the Series 1 only

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I have never even seen a series 1 camera, so had no idea about this feature. I was only talking about EOS 40D. But good to know. Thanks for sharing the info.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Some people buy a new car and do a major modification, however not many. If you want to spend your money to do it, fine. I would save money and get a D800E and have a warranty, as well as support in processing software, etc.

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The reason many of us did not go for the D800E (apart from being Canon fans); is the significant loss in arbitrage of switching to the overpriced Nikkors and the 75mb file sizes. As it is I am still reeling form the 25mb raws of the 5diii coming from a 5dc. Otherwise... the 800E itself was always cheaper than the 5diii.

TexPhoto said:

With 180 degree field of view, no filter is going to be large enough, even if presses against the from element.

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Good catch, thanks!

FWIW, the 10-22mm is an excellent UWA lens (despite how light it feels in your hand - the bottom line is that a small image circle, relatively slow aperture, and short focal length mean there's just not a lot of glass required, thus the lens is light). Much less barrel distortion than the 16-35L which is the FF-equivalent AoV.

Before getting a FF camera and 16-35L, I had the 10-22mm - I sold it for just $50 less than I paid (bought new from Amazon) after a year of use, pretty cheap 'rental'.

if i look at the cinema EOS cameras i don't think the 650d/t4i will be anaunced et NAB. But i hop it will be soon.

prestonpalmer said:

Same problem here. It seems the screen does not change brightness live. It take a reading when you hit the preview button, then doesn't adjust brightness after that. Try making sure your hand or thumb is not over the sensor. What you are experiencing is not a malfunction in my opinion.

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Thanks a lot for this info! Yes I tested the auto brightness control again and it is fine now. Just not real time like the 5D2.

Hi,
the newcamera told on their webside, that´s the new book "650d pour le nuls" / "650d for dummies" is avaiable for preorder.
http://thenewcamera.com/?p=10025

Maybe something happens soon