To assist in LV focus verification in bright light, I just use a Hoodman loupe. Works great.

jfretless said:

The word "megapixel" was a god send to the camera makers. It was a way that they could easily show people, 4MP is better than 2MP. ...and people would buy new cameras solely based on that.

In the film days, I think technology reached a plateau. Look at the flagship Canon EOS 1v HS. 10FPS and 45 AF points. ...and that was in the year 2000.

What has canon really improved in? Sensors. We still are around 10FPS and 45 AF points. in 12 years?

oh and...

...everyone knows that once a new camera is released, the previous model is rendered useless and unable to produce usable images.

The past couple of generations have been trained to consume, consume, consume.

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Actually, we are at 12/14fps and 61 AF points. AF sensors are also sensitive to far less light than they used to be, down to EV -2 in Canon 1D and Nikon Dx models. We have far more high precision cross type points, and Canon is the first to offer double cross type points for even more AF precision and speed. Dynamic range has improved from maybe 5-7 stops in 2000 to around 12 stops or more today. Pixel densities have increased with a concurrent improvement in IQ. We've gone from around 4 megapixels in 2001 to 20 megapixels or more today. We've gone from a max native ISO 1600, to a max native ISO 51200 (thats a full FIVE STOPS, or 32 times as much light sensitivity!), with maximum ISO settings of today offering better IQ than the max ISO settings from a decade ago. Today, people are happily asking for fewer megapixels and better IQ from the megapixels they have (hence the 18mp 1D X and 22mp 5D III...both of which maintained the megapixel status quo while improving IQ...in the case of the 1D X by a very considerable degree.)

Its incredibly naive to say we've made no progress in the last 12 years. We've made tremendous progress. The type of images we can capture today outpace anything in history, including film (and yes, even LF film with 300dpi drum scans...you get "large" images with that, but IQ...although excellent, no longer holds up to the likes of what you can get from a modern full-frame sensor, particularly the D800's Exmor sensor...there is a lack of deep contrast and still that grain that is entirely absent from a modern high-res digital sensor). We have made phenomenal progress in the last decade plus.

danski0224 said:

B.Lee said:

danski0224 said:

B.Lee said:

So I just purchased the 16-35 II and to be completely honest, I was kind of disappointed to learn 16mm isn't as significant a difference from 24mm as I had hoped.

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Huh?

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Huh?

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I have a 16-35 and see a pretty big difference.

Also a big difference between 14mm and 16mm, but I do not think the 14mm is a general purpose lens.

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+1 The 14mm is great for getting up close to something to distort the perspective.

Brandon, could post a photo or two of yours where you felt that 16mm wasn't wide enough?

HarryWintergreen said:

Street photography is something different. DSLR here isn't the best choice. Fuji seems to have taken this into consideration.

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The best "street shooter" camera is something with a waist level viewfinder such that the camera need not to be raised to the eye level to draw any attention. Therefore some canon DSLR is best for the job, e.g. 60D and the T4i. Some mirrorless with swinging screen will do too. In the old film days, both the Hasselblad and Rolleiflex will be excellent choice, dispite of the larger size of the camera, due to the 6 X6 cm waistlevel view finder.

I went for a walk across the River Thames today, near where I live:


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Dmkiii, 24-105mm 67mm, f8.0, 1/400 sec, ISO100


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: as above, except 58mm, 1/500 sec


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 24mm, 1/1250 Sec, f4.0


Bisham Church, nr Marlow by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 55mm, 1/800 Sec


Marlow Bridge by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 24mm, 1/125 Sec, f18.0, ISO 640


Marlow Weir by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 67mm, 1/160 Sec, f22.0

Last one:


Marlow Bridge by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 105mm, 1/250 Sec, f8.0, ISO 100

willis said:

bdunbar79 said:

Whatchoo talkin' about willis?

I couldn't pass that up, sorry.

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Yeahh, heard that so many times. ;D

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Oh I bet and now you got one more idiot to say it again ;D

Yeah, a 17-40 F4L will be your best UWA except if you really need a faster lens which I doubt if you're into landscape photography. Hold on to your 50mm 1.8 yet (unless you're planning to upgrade to 50 1.4 or 1.2L). This will be one of your most used focal length with full frame. It's also so cheap that you'll not regret keeping it.

killswitch said:

Great feedback as usual. It left me thinking, maybe save up and get the 5D mk iii later. Have they fixed black AF point issue, also how do I make sure I dont end up getting a body that has the light leak issue?

verysimplejason said:

Technically, the images will certainly be better but will still be dependent on your creativity if you're looking at it aesthetically. Upgrading is good but it also depends on your financial capability. It will still be better to build your lens list first before you upgrade to a better body and just keep on shooting. After you buy your lenses then I think it will be the best time to upgrade the body. The body by that time will either be a lot better than the current or a lot cheaper. Please remember that most of the time, it's the lenses that will limit your ability to take photos and not the camera body especially that it's 60D, still one of the newest camera body in Canon lineup.

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Yeah, I was going that route before deciding to change the body. I have noticed I really really struggle with reach even with crop body. I initially planned to get the Canon 70-200 f2.8L (non-IS) but held out thinking telephoto of this range would probably be better with IS (to reduce camera shake) given I avoid bumping up the ISO in my 60D to avoid grains/noise. I have the following lens at this time

1) Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX Pro
2) Canon 24-70mm f2.8L
3) Canon 50mm 1.8 II (which I am selling off as I barely use it)

So if end up not purchasing a new body, I will most likely eye 70-200 f2.8L. I see myself selling off the Tokina IF I do go for a full frame, even though that is by far my most favorite lens. Maybe replace it with Canon 17-40 f4L?

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Need not be "too good to be true". Things happen and people need cash. As PeterJ says this guy probably still needs a camera but also some cash.

I recently bought a 50D with less than 3000 shutter counts for $380 on craigslist.


However, if you choose to buy/trade up to the 7D in question, make sure that you put the camera through every possible workout before you agree to the trade. Meet somewhere in public and tell the guy to come with at least 45 minutes in hand (to allow you enough time) to let you test the camera thoroughly. In fact I would suggest you to sit down with your own camera and a 7D manual and make a list of tests that you would like to perform and how you would like to do that test. Take that list with you on the day of the trade if possible or memorize it.

preppyak said:

Actually, if you check the rumor again, he says that the sensor is most often cited as 22mp. I really can't imagine them doing the R&D for a whole new sensor for a cheaper camera.

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Me neither - but I can imagine them tweaking the existing sensor a bit so that the nominal mp count is somewhat lower than 22mp for the tech data sheets. They did the reverse strategy for the 21mp 5d2->5d3, and that's no sensor redesign either.

Or maybe they really added live view like on the 650d, that might eat up some pixels that wouldn't count for still shots? Quite possible, because that's a tech where Canon has an edge unlike Nikon in iso/dr.

bkorcel said:

Yeah they tried that already. It was called the Philadelphia Experiment. ;D

marekjoz said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

marekjoz said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

RLPhoto said:

This tech will in military and security use before it will ever hit the consumer market.

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Yes, DARPA gives out quite a few grants for research to both Universities and to companies. In fact, thats how we got the internet.

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.... and a few other technologies beyond Internet

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Yes, I've visited the DARPAheadquarters and bid on some projects as well as briefing them on our research before I retired.
I first used the internet back in the mid 1980's before it really caught on. Back then, it was unix commands only. We had dumb terminals networked to a VAX.

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I'curious when They finally will find a way to diffract the light using elecromagnetic field with a reasonable about of power the other intersting solution would be spherical sensors. Anyone knows about sth like that?

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And we don't want them to repeat it, as we'd like to see Canon labs not to dissapear

I have the SBH-300 and the thing is built like a tank. I probably could have gone with the SBH-100 and been fine, but, I got it like new from Amazon Warehouse for the same price, and it'll be nice for video work.

I've been looking at the 263AT's for when I upgrade my tripod legs. The lifetime warranty is a nice perk

neuroanatomist said:

HSS should work fine with radio control from a 5DIII (or 1D X or T4i/650D), but with a pre-2012 camera you need to use optical control for HSS.

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thanks neuro definitely an option for me now

I Cannot recommend the 5Dc highly enough. Its ISO performance is still better than any APS-C camera canon makes.

Take that extra 700$ and get an used 135L or 85mm 1.8 or towards some good glass.

Possible Sensor defect, Get a new body.

I would be careful of buying used cameras on ebay... except from a dealer with an actual location listed.

A mint condition SLR with only 300 actuations could easily be 10'300, 20'300, 30'300, 40'300, 50'300, etc, especially if its been used for timelapse...

distant.star said:

paul13walnut5 said:

I wish there were more pics of me with my grandparents, but money wasn't abundant in the west of Scotland in the early 80s and film and printing wasn't cheap.

Moral, that cliff in your sunset will be there in 10'000 years, take more photos of and with the people you love.

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Amen, brother!

If you were to take away every picture I ever made, the last one I'd give up would be one I took of the family in July, 1967 just before I went to Vietnam. There is nothing to recommend it photographically/artistically, but it's the best picture I ever took.

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Im currently in Vietnam. I missed a great shot the other day up outside A Luoi going back from Hamburger Hill. The sun came
out through the clouds over the valley. But I was soaked and my 24-105 had given up as it was also soaked. I did stop the motorbike and enjoyed the moment so I guess I have the image in my head instead.

Mike Miami said:

To get the money paid instantly he would have to have at least 25 positive feedbacks as a seller, not total feedbacks.
If not, then the seller has to wait until the buyer receives the item and posts positive feedback for the seller before PayPal transfers the money to the sellers account.

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I wonder if that varies by country or if there are other rules? I've sold a few things on e-bay recently and got paid straight away but just checked and have only had 9 feedbacks as a seller. I have a total feedback of over 140 positives at 100% but mainly as a buyer, I've probably only ever sold 15 items or so and got no feedback for the others (so assume all was good).

hhawk said:

Since posting this message, I made contact with Canon support again and this time I actually received some logical answers. The shutter count sub- menu within the battery info menu measures battery condition by counting how many shutter actuation's you have taken per battery. Every time you recharge a battery, the count goes to 0. Over the life of a battery this number will drop. To measure the actual shutter actuation's , I had good results with EOSCount.com. Its cheap and accurate. : )

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Lol did you even read any of the responses? Two people answered this for you....

I had good results with EOSCount.com. I got a brand new 5d MkIII with 0 Yaaa! : )

As Mt. Spokane says, one must be careful with this configuration. If the manual flashes illuminate the subject at all, the exposure will be increased by that amount. If none of the manuals are on subject however (ie: background gels, etc) this mixed setup can work quite well. This presumes the manual flash triggering method ignores the (E)TTL preflash like many optical triggers don't.

I use this setup with Phottix Stratos on remote manual flashes and my 580EXII in the hotshoe.

Help with what? I don't ever use P mode, I use Manual and Aperture modes. Most of the settings stay the same as you switch between modes but you will have to set some things with the different modes.

Re: G12 Successor what Preview?

update,
according to some birdy here on Canon rumours a G12 successor is 'likely' to be announced in the week prior to Photokina!
We wait with bated breath!
Will it be another EOS M type announcement?
Announced now,

available xmas?

I've seen them on eBay for either $2699 or $2799 (can't remember, but I want to say $2699), so at this price I'm sure it's legit. It kind of tics me off that I paid almost $3800 for mine after tax not even 6 months ago. I'm honestly very surprised the price has come down this much.

Probably why Canon has decided to move toward on camera tutorials. Next will be to just provide a PDF on the CD and omit the printed version...

MKIIIphotographer said:

Another case of RTFM !!! "Why are my images soft?" "5D3 ignores microadjustment in LiveView", and on and on... seems to be a endless parade of users that spend big money on professional equipment thinking it will make them professional photographers.

There should be a whole nother thread just for newbies with great cameras who don't read the manual and are frustrated because ... "Manuals, we don't need a stinking manual !!!"

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You can report it, but Canon may not do anything. I'd return it to the store and complain. It is very possible that they did not know and it was supplied by a crooked wholesaler. They will tell you that in any event.
It will probably work fine, but you overpaid for a poor imitation. The AC section looks poorly designed, and might be a fire hazzard.