The 1D II and III and IV does not display top LCD exposure information in manual mode. Unless I've spent countless hours pointlessly searching through menus on the 1D II when I first got it and not found the setting that enables that particular function, which I find quite useful.

The Samyang 24mm f/3.5 tilt-shift lens looks real interesting though, wonder what the cost will be?

I sure hope no one is expecting 200+ MP in a 35mm format sensor... heck medium format may be too small... sensors can always improve, DR can be steadily increased, but sensor density, for this size format and quality, is starting to get to max out otherwise as we see with the 24MP APS-C sensors, they just get crappy quickly.

A camera with a larger sensor does not overcome the diffraction problem.

Reason being - with a FF camera (and same 100/2.8 lens) you'll be closer to your subject for the same framing (field-of-view) which reduces DOF. This offsets the gains made by higher fstop permitted by lower pixel density.

Same goes for landscape photography.

pwp said:

Richard Lane said:

Here's a few shots from yesterdays Varsity Scrimmage shot with the 1DX and 500mm f/4L IS II:

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How is the AF compared to an f/2.8 lens such as the 400 f/2.8?

-PW

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I don't own the 400mm f/2.8 but I have demoed it, however I do have a 300mm f/2.8L IS version one. The AF on the 500mm f/4II feels equally as fast as the 300mm f/2.8 during the day. I haven't tried the 500mm f/4II at night yet. The AF of the 500mm f/4II is extremely fast and feels instantaneous, whether in AI Servo or One shot. When I press the shutter button in One Shot the AF confirmation beep occurs simultaneously with the shutter press. There is no lag whatsoever, as a matter of fact it does feel "a little" faster than the 300mm f/2.8 and I can't believe I just wrote that (all bets are off for night games). When I press the shutter button in One Shot with the 300mm f/2.8I, the sensation is shutter-press then an instant beep, with the 500mmII it feels as though the shutter-press is actually causing the beep without any lag.

Now, with the 500mm II in AI Servo when tracking the player, if you loose the player for a second and then have to reacquire him, there is a longer delay with the 500mm f/4L as the glass moves forward and backward to reacquire focus (I have focus search off which is recommended for super-telephotos in order to prevent extreme de-focusing, for extreme de-focusing I reacquire with the Manual Focus ring). I don't view this as a concern with it's AF ability, as I feel it has more to do with the longer focal range, just taking a little longer to re-lock onto the target. In other words the de-focused 300mm f/2.8I will move back and forth faster so it re-acquires faster and of course it's also easier to track your subject with a wider FOV angle.

Rich

lopicma said:

This would be a problem if the lens/body combo is supposed to be weather sealed! I was under the impression all the white "L" series lenses are water sealed. I don't know about the 5D.

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They are weather sealed, not water sealed. Dust, sand, mist, rain etc.. are mostly blocked. They are certainly not weather/waterproof and care must still be taken. I have been in steady rain as well as off road dust storms without anything getting into my 1 series bodies.

Even with some wiggle I have not had any issues whatsoever with weather getting into the body and affecting the images. A bit of wiggle in the lens/body mount does not mean that it is not still weather sealed.

Phottix have stated that they are working on 1d x ettl support, but for now only manual works. However you can still use the ettl communication line to remote adjust power in manual mode.

I understand from your post - that your basic next step is to upgrade the canon 50mm 1.8 by adding additional fast primes, for people pictures.

You seem to have a nice collection of glass - in quality zooms.

The 85mm L is a slow focusing lens, probably not best for shooting kids, who tend to move around and require a more casual style of shooting.

I would recommend the 35L and 50mm 1.4 - both very useful on a crop for portraits and kids shots. I have them both used on a rebel. The 85mm 1.8 is somewhat tight but also an option. On a FF is more usable.

Canon is very tight lipped.... they are not know for uncontrolled leaks. A few happen... but they have at times totally bewildered the photo trade as well. I attended dinners, as Canon's guest, back in the 70's and 80's, for product rollouts that we had ZERO clue on. Other items, my rep would say, "we're gonna have a new (whatever) out in the fall... maybe Photokina, maybe PMA", and that was that.

Didn't they knock one out of the park with the Rebel/300D ? That was a leakproof milestone for Canon.

So, ya just can't tell.... ya gotta wait.

LostArk said:

STOP THE PRESSES

Click to expand...

So can we tell from this photo whether it offers the flexibility of the Canon TSE II or if it is limited to a switchable 90º setting like the older TSE and Nikon lenses?

Because if it's the former...I'm ordering one.

from backstage at event I am involved in Korea, the choir and a very enthusiastic drummer. Have processed in colour and black and white and like both. I suspect the colour is stronger but still like the black and white:

Canon 5D mk III Zeiss 35 f/2 at f/4 1/80 ISO 400


drummer-and-choir-colour by singingsnapper, on Flickr

black and white:


Drummer-and-choir-bw by singingsnapper, on Flickr

and a colleague of mine backstage:

Canon 5D mk III CZ 35 at f/2 1/25 ISO 2000


Chris-backstage by singingsnapper, on Flickr

ookkerpak, as far as i konw there's no way to claim your tax back unless you purchase something in Hainan province which is China's second largest island but it's far from Shanghai, so please don't get too exited about that.

If a brand new 5D3 (any Canon related product) is sold by Canon China, the package should always have two stickers, one on the top and the other on the joint where you open the box. There's a series of code on the top sticker, you can enter the code into this website http://www.canon.com.cn/support/authenticity/index.html to check its authentication. The joint sticker(once off) has to be removed before you open the package.

It has to be smuggle product if there's no such stickers on the package. They are a bit cheaper and most of them are still genuine products from Canon HongKong. There's no difference except the warranty.

But I still suggest you to go for the genuine Chinese stock for peace of mind.

Strange as it may seem, mine's AF works at f/8 (such as f5,6 lens plus 1,4 extender).

Did Mr Miranda try this ?

I don't shoot whole football matches , but use mine every day, no LV and I'm getting 1200... I miss the 2800 of the 1d3...

cogden said:

Thanks to all for the tutelage! I just tried it out the Oslo airport hotel window, with a loaner 800mm, at the planes landing/taking off and I think I've got it nailed.

One surprise discovery: if you press the LCD Light button while reviewing images, it brings up the Screen Brightness adjustment. (the tradeoff is that you lose the ability to illuminate the lower LCD to find the voice recorder button)

Nice easter egg (to me anyway).

Click to expand...

I worked ten years at the electronicsshop at Gardermoen (Osl airport) a few parties at that hotel, LOL.

KKCFamilyman said:

Thanks everyone again. I do agree that this will cover my immediate needs for reach beyond 105 mm. It will give me a budget toward a L prime. Or the 24-70 ii if it ends up great. I also like the weight. The Iq is sharp wide open on my copy. I also want the speed lite 600ex to add for low light and I think that will be a better combo than the 2.8 version. I do have the 50mm 1.4. I think I will go for 35mm for my next prime. What is there for beyond 200mm? That's semi affordable?

Click to expand...

That's the range where things get interesting. Canon options include using the 1.4x, 70-300L and 100-400L. You might want to try the 1.4x first and see if that is sufficient. With a 70-200, the 70-300 is not as good a choice because so much of the range overlaps. So, try the extender first, then the 100-400. Beyond that, it gets heavy and expensive.

bdunbar79 said:

marekjoz said:

bdunbar79 said:

What? You think you're cool just b/c you get well-lit stadiums and I'm shooting in the trenches at DII college sports? 8)

Just kidding!! Beautiful shots!

Click to expand...

Come on, your photos are much better even if your stadium is contrasty or weak lit
I'm really amazed what 1dx and 300 2.8 or 70-200 2.8 II can do in good hands! Pretty impressive your work!

Click to expand...

Have you seen gary samples work with the 1DX? Now that is good 1DX work!

Click to expand...

yes, he's freezing the world

85L is hot garbage. 70-200 is nice to have for ceremony coverage but that 85. So good.

Yeah... what they said. Send it in.

If you need the extra burst then 7D or 1DIV would be the way to go. If you don't then the 5DIII is really a great camera.

I bought one to go with my 1DIV for shooting wildlife (Birds in flight + Static), landscapes and real estate commercially. The details are so much nicer then my 1DIV especially at higher ISO (Over 1250) that I ended up selling my 1DIV and picked up a second 5DIII body.

If its all about the burst rate then your question is easy to answer. If other factors weigh in then it opens up your options a bit. Considering that you are coming off of 3.4FPS then the 5DIII at 6FPS will feel like a machine gun, however it is a far cry from 10FPS of the 1DIV.

Good luck and happy shooting,

Fatalv said:

Hi,

I'm a lighting newbie and have been searching around for some softboxes/diffusion for two flashpoint 1000 watt tungsten hot lights I have. The hot lights have worked well (for the price) for a product photography shoot I did with a custom light box I built.

I would like to be able to use these lights for some portrait shots of my fiance. Adorama has these softboxes listed as flashpoint accessories http://www.adorama.com/FPSBPZ2436.html but I'm wondering how well these would work since the lights get rather hot. I'd very much like to prevent the chance of a fire happening in my studio room

Is it possible to use softboxes with constant output lights like these? Any other good options for me? I'd really like to get into some Alien Bee lighting down the road when I have more $$ but right now the budget is very limited.

Thanks in advance for all the insight!

Click to expand...

This will work with the softbox; I'm told that it was tested for 20 minutes and using a 1000 watt bulb. Do email me directly if you need any other information: [email protected]

5Dc/2 + 50mm 1.8/1.4.

Done.

$1599 on ebay for the body. Buy a lens separately. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=2968
Or, $2639 for the kit at Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001G5ZTMM/cpw-20/?me=ATVPDKIKX0DER.

I think its very interesting, but it has been around for a year or two.
They are likely talking it up again because they need another government grant. University research projects compete for the government research money, and MIT has a really good PR department.
Its not actually photography at a trillion times a second, thats just part of the PR hype.

You see the same hype with Black Silicone, every time they need more research money, its suddenly in the news.

A couple of Olympics shots - one of Laura Robson, the GB No1 female tennis player, and one of the Beach Volley Ball "arena"


Laura Robson by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 70-300mm DO at 300mm, 1/2000sec, f8.0, ISO1250


Beach Volley Ball by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 15mm, 1/1600sec, f5.0, ISO100

The entertainment:

Beach Volley Ball - The Entertainment by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF Canon 7D, 70-300mm DO at 210mm, 1/800sec, f5.6, ISO100

The sport

Beach Volley Ball - The Sport by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 70-300mm DO at 300mm, 1/800sec, f5.6, ISO100

Richard