Sigma 12-24 or samyang 14. I have the samyang on my wishlist.

So the rebate is 200 off the 2999 msrp? Bah that's lame but whatever I guess it's an ok deal still.

Fantastic news, I can certainly live with the issue until the next firmware release, thanks for letting us know.

I thought I would give an update to this saga.

I ended up going for the 200mm f/2.00 lens and I got it for a lower price than I had expected. Leaving some pennies in the bank. Now I just have to wait for Fedex to do their stuff (and the guy to leave it at the depot as promised today) Sadly there seems to be a dearth of demo and hire functions in Finland compared to the UK and USA (lucky devils!).

Motivation was, after reviewing a lot of my past year's photographs, a lot of portraits and some internal shooting where the light was not so great (but the distance further than the 85mm f:1.8 I have. Plus in the winter I have some plans to photograph indoor sport. It was a tough call, but I tipped it to the 200. I will look at selling the Sigma 150-500 and some other bits and then to pick up a 300 or 400 f/2.8 when a great deal comes along and the pennies permit.

So thanks ! Come on Fedex! With my luck it will arrive on Friday in southern Finland and then they sit on it until Monday

hmmm, if my mum lets me 'borrow' hers, i could compare it to a 7D...

The Bad Duck said:

Ok, this is Canon rumors but you should take a serious look at the Sigma 120-300 /2.8 OS.

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Lots of options for you! The Sigma was a nice suggestion (never used one myself, but it looks all right to me)... 100-400 is a serious option too...

good luck

With my high-precision screen on my 5DMKII, I meter +2/3 stop and exposure is perfect.

The bodies go for $800 and up.
Summicron 50 F/2 close focus lens is worth the most, probably $1000+ depending upon condition.

I looked at a 1957 model with the close focus "eyes", a 35mm Summaron and a 50 Summicron.
As Charlie mentions, you really need to get it serviced and appraised.
It could be very expensive junk.

Ken Rockwell has a couple of places he uses and recommends on the East and West Coast...

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/repair.htm#gus

buyers guide too...

http://www.kenrockwell.com/leica/m3/buyers-guide.htm

HTH

ET

I just recently brought my f4 is back for the 2.8 is ii because I need the extra stop and I should not have to worry about upgrading for a while in that range. Just my op.

incidentally, more to your question sparkle999 according to this review:

http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-DSLR-Camera-Review.aspx

the 5D3 has an additional fluorine coating intended to provide additional incremental improvement, compared to the 5D2 The comment is buried deep inside the review, so here is the text (emphasis mine):

"A clean sensor is a strong contributor to good image quality. The 5D III inherits the 5D II's Integrated Cleaning System with the addition of a dust-avoiding fluorine coating. I have read in Canon documentation that the 5D III's self-cleaning sensor system incorporates a more efficient ultrasonic vibration but I'm not certain that this is correct. It was perhaps copied in from 1D X documentation...I have changed lenses on my 5D III a huge number of times and have not needed to clean the sensor since I blew the single factory dust bunny out when the camera first arrived."

How about going closer than 1:1? Do either work well with extension tubes?

102 AF points with only 11 cross looks like more of a headline grabber to me and I have my doubts it'll be the preffered tool of action photographers with Sony's weakenss on long lenses and the SLT mirror robbing 2/3 of a stop of light.

The answer depends on the software you are using. Some software (DPP for example) will read the camera settings and apply them to the imported raw file.
There are only a couple of settings that affect raw files in camera, so you want to be aware of them.
Highlight tone Priority will capture the image at one stop lower ISO. Turn that off.
Long Exposure Noise Reduction will affect the Raw file, but that might be a good thing as long as you understand when to use it, and what it does.

If you want to dig a little farther, and understand why your camera can only sync the flash at 1/200 and slower, here is a great article: http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/tech/fp-shutter.html

Same for me, sent it to canon then they changed it. it's been almost a year now.. and it's getting loose again..

+1 on the ND filters.

Another alternative is to move the lights closer, and just shoot using the modeling lights.

For me Tokina, all the way. I have had the same dilemma as you when I was hunting for a UWA for my crop body. I returned the Canon 10-22, as it felt like a plastic toy beside the tokina which is built like a tank and was not as sharp as the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX Pro. Solid construction, and razor sharp. Yes that 1mm difference is what you loose if you get the tokina, but the sharpness you get from this beast is razor like ( even at f2.8 ). The color rendered from the tokina is amazing given it's a 3rd party lens. Also it gives you awesome 8 stars on street lights/light source when stopped down. Pair the tokina with a multi-coated circular polarizer from B+W or Hoya and you will love what it spits out.

The only thing that had me thinking is the lens flare. Yes, Canon controls lens flare a bit better, but it is not too bad in tokina. I have been shooting over 1.5 years with the tokina and so far lens flare has never given me any trouble. Also, depending on what you are shooting you can use the lens flare generated from UWA lens to your advantage as an aesthetic element in your composition. Also, I thought the shorter focal range in tokina might come off as a disadvantage for me when composing. So far, I have shot mostly at 11mm and wish I could go even lower/wider and not up. Tokina's 11-16mm Mark II now has a built in AF drive hence it is also a lot quieter.

cliffwang said:

Thanks for the information. I will keep my eyes on it. The good thing is Tamron provide 6 years warranty for repair and adjustment.

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6 years.... and it is better than the 24-70 I, has IS and is cheaper.... depending on how often this happens, i don't think it has put me off too much... not that i'm in the market to buy one any time soon!

You may well be correct about the authorised dealers, however when I spoke to tech support they made no mention of this, just the requirement that it was paid for in Pounds and Pence

I've found that the list of 'authorised dealers' (e-tailers) is not the easiest thing to locate, especially when you are purchasing from a web site

Annoying, isn't it...

You can set 1/3-stop brackets, and if you use 10 s timer from LiveView, you can get several frames taken from the one shutter press (may want to set 2 fps).

I plan to pick up a hähnel RF trigger, or a PocketWizard pre-trigger cable and use a MiniTT1 as a remote (most likely the hähnel as it offers extra functionality).

I think that this 100% crop of an image of the night sky may show the same issue... Just left of centre of the image about half way up you can see what looks to be a white cross. Zooming past 100% and it appears to be a white pixel which has 'bled out' into surrounding pixels. There is another smaller anomaly above and to the left again.

Just out of interest, will my 300mm fit into this case (the original leather one is near its end)?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280944711454?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_13088wt_1050

I love my 1Dx but miss a couple of things from my 5DMkII...

Does anyone know if it is possible to have a beep with the 2 second timer?

Is there a way to have the exposure meter appear in the top window when shooting in manual?

Cheers

jdramirez said:

I have to agree, I don't really see a point in this. We all know that the conversation factor of 1.6 turns a 16mm to a 24mm and a 24 to a 38 or something like that.

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Field of view changes the lenses are still the same magnification. FF gives a wider field of view, crop gives the perception of a longer lens. There's no magic magnification conversion.

why on earth do they squeeze 20 Mio pix on what really looks a decently sized sensor.
12 would have improved noise a lot, and if you compare picture sharpness off center, Oly XZ-1 looks pretty decent to me. A better lens on the G1X or a lager sensor behind Zuiko Glass will do the trick for me.