Just wanted to add in on the subject. I just got the 600ex rt and the st-e3-rt and used them for the first time on a wedding shoot.

I can confirm that you can enable high speed sync on the st-e3 and it will allow high speed shooting on the 5D mkii... I did syncs in the 1000s and the flash still served well as a fill in daylight sunny.
The mains issue though being that the flash gets hot fast and the batteries last somewhere around 500 shots.

Nevertheless... it possible. I did notice on some of the smaller speeds around the 200/500s that there is some power loss, but I can work out how this all fits together.

EDIT: by the way... I also got the Lastolite Ezybox (38cm X 38cm) and had the assistant fire it up in the air in the churc. At full power, even through the Ezybox, the flash provided a very nice ambient fill!

Also for getting colours right think about getting a screen calibrator - colormunki or Spyder are two of the most well known as sometimes what you see on your screen isn't what your camera captured.

drjlo said:

Did anybody hear any confirmation about the T4i sensor being new, old, "improved"?

Click to expand...

It's definitely no very big improvement at medium or high ISO shooting RAW, but serious reviews should come out any day now.

A couple legit authorized US dealers (Profeel or PhotoVideo4Less) have been selling it in the $3250 range, and have touched as low as $3149. You just have to watch and wait, as ebay prices fluctuate a lot.

I suggest using canonpricewatch -- they track the authorized dealers who sell using ebay too:

http://www.canonpricewatch.com/product/03868/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-price.html

Marsu42 said:

n0iZe said:

Cameras don't fix pictures, they just take them.

Click to expand...

While it the shortcomings of the op's shots are obvious and don't need to be discussed further, I disagree with you on this one: Of *course* I want my camera to fix my pictures = enabling me to fix errors in post!

Exposing correctly might not be an issue while shooting landscapes, but if you shoot events then you're quite busy with the things around you, so a lenient camera (good af, much dynamic range beyond the scene dr as a fix for wrong exposure, low noise at high shutter speeds to fix my shaking hands while holding heavy gear for hours).

I'm sure future camera bodies will cover up photog's lack of experience even more in the future, so as a pro it's less and less about exposing correctly by running around with a light meter...

Not too long ago I even saw a sensor concept enabling you to shift the *focus* in post, so you can just shoot away and wonder what to focus later on. But for the moment, this was a proof of concept and made for mobile phones rather then dslrs.

Click to expand...

Of course you do want them to do fix the pictures. However, they are just not capable of this at this point.

I do not question that it's not always an easy job. However I feel free to question it when it comes to still photography - afaik neither flowerpots nor flowers move a lot. So you have all the time you want for exposing, taking several photos at different exposures if necessary. Digital photography gives you way more space for trying out things. It won't harm your CF card if you take three different shots when not sure about exposition.
I catch myself doing this sometimes aswell, since the display on my Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II is so poor you can't actually judge the photos in daylight. Indoor, it's okay. But never try to judge the photos outside, lol. It doesn't work well.

Regarding shifting the focus after taking the actual picture, I think you refer to the Lytro. However I'm not sure how great the photos will come out: check out the "Play with the picture" function on the right of the main frame on their website lytro.com . I think sharpness is really poor. Also this is an easy picture since you can't really play with focus - you have two choices; either you focus on the girl or on the guy / wall. No matter what you focus on the girl, ring, tea cup or face - it always looks the same to me.
Don't know if this is a problem of illustration or if it's actually that bad in real life use.

GaryFong said:

I spent four hours at the Canon booth, and they couldn't figure it out either until the second day when we discovered - and this is important - that the 600ex/rt on Master setting has to be on infrared (not radio) mode when using with a 580exII or 430exII. Little is known about this (because Canon really doesn't do a great job with instruction)

Click to expand...

This is embarrassing for the Canon staff - with the 600rt display, most things are self-explaining. For using the 600rt with older optical remote flashes there's even a custom function to disable the radio part (and features that depend on it like group flash), so the 600rt basically behaves like a prettier 580ex2...

pwp said:

I wouldn't shoot events without the Gary Fong modifiers.

Click to expand...

There seem to be very split opinions on this, and I'm not sure what diffuser to get. Some people saying these are extremely overpriced and you can re-create the collapsible Gary Fong with plastic for $1 yourself - but I guess that's paying for r&d.

But many people seem to rely on the less expensive and less bulky Sto-fen Omni-Bounce - could you please share your experiences about the differences? Or do you have even both for different occasions?

I want to thank all those that kicked in their 2 cents. Looks like it's a mixed bag. I want to replace my kit lens from a Rebel XS. I am not making money on any of my photos, and have no delusions about that, so spending 2.5 times the coin on a Canon lens of comparable status, is out of the question.

I just took delivery of this lens, and I have to say, the build/construction of the lens is not what I expected.

1. It's heavier than any of the Canon lenses I own. This is not a bad thing, but it did surprise me.

2. When I unboxed it, I found out why... The lens is a whopping 72mm in diameter! I wasn't sure how it would fit on my Rebel XS... but of course it was fine.

I have taken some indoor shot of my lazy cat, and have plans to take it out "in the wild" this weekend, but so far I am happy with the lens.

As stated in the manual - which is a boring read, but necessary - the VC kicks in a split second after the shutter button is half depressed, and last for a split second after you release the button. I find it far more smooth than the Canon 55-250mm IS lens once it gets started. The stabilization on that lens hops all over the place when racked out to 250.

Beautiful

While I agree with your flash set up as is, I have never found when I liked photos from my 7D in flash situations or low-light situations. The 5D Mark III is the camera you'll be wanting to use in those situations. 7D works great and is a lot of fun in situations where ISO is 100-200. I was unhappy with cropping and higher ISO's.

Thanks Axilrod. The ideas are perhaps thousands of years old- updated with our current understanding of the universe, iterative computation, and biology.

The script for the next episode discusses the nature of the universe in more detail. Later scripts will discuss mind/body/nutrition, probably with documentary style interviews. All of it relates back to the two generative concepts in the first episode.

RLPhoto said:

But the 10-22mm has almost no distortion. :'( It'd be hard to part with w/o renting the tokina first.

Click to expand...

If you rent it, please let us know your findings - I'd be very interested since you seem to be very specific about the lenses you use. But everything I've read about the Tokina is very favorable (it's nearly a prime lens with the tiny zoom range), it's f2.8, it's very sharp and while Canon might be better the little distortion is simple to correct in post.

Lol I just a CPS rental from them! I love CPS, There awesome.

...now what?

I'm a video guy first, stills is a hobby for now. I was taking a few shots under a tent and everything was so ridiculously dark, no matter what settings that I realized just as with video, light is really important, so I got myself a flash. The latest and greatest bad boy.

So, now what?

The manual is huge, way larger than that of my 60D, and I would like some help as to where to begin. Do I start with the manual and learn how to sync up with the camera and how to use it? Or are there websites that are more valuable in giving me a crash course. I think I won't actually use it until I have some understanding of it, even though I am the type of person that usually likes to "figure it out" I realise this may be a bit much to just simply figure out.

So, just looking for suggestions on how to proceed. I also bought a flashbender, if that matters.

Cheers!

Limited options available 14mm f2.8 or fisheyes 15mm and 8-15 zoom(12mm)

Interesting article....that the T4i may have clean HDMI out...but possibly not true HD.

http://nofilmschool.com/2012/06/did-canon-give-t4i-clean-hdmi-out/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+nofilmschool+%28NoFilmSchool%29

From the read, I gather that this limitation, on say the 5D3, is purely software related and the camera is crippled by Canon.

Hoping Magic Lantern can fix this!!

Interesting read on the findings of the pre-prod releases of the T4i...and various findings in the wild on these.

wellfedCanuck said:

Nice shots. I love YYC this time of year- whenever I'm in town I walk up to the Eau Claire Y for a workout then have subs from Thi Thi's. I've passed overhead 6 times this week- one of those contrails is probably me.

Click to expand...

It's definitely a beautiful city this time of year, for sure. Eau Claire is a great place to hang out too

wickidwombat said:

1 question that worrys me with the touch screen is the nose interface
more specifically the nose on my face interfaceing with the screen

any comments or issues here?

Click to expand...

Not an issue. you have to hit the Q button on the screen to activate it and its located on the bottom right corner. Its very difficult to hit accidentally.

Very smart for canon to do that.

Interesting, but short article about sharpening in post using Canon 1Dx video, from "EOSHD"...

http://www.eoshd.com/content/8299/does-the-canon-1d-x-sharpen-as-well-as-the-5d-mark-iii-plus-bonus-1d-mk-iv-comparison

Read all about it ;D

Archangel72

jaduffy007 said:

"That Nikon Guy" on youtube has part of what you want, a Canon 24-70 L vs Tamron 24-70 VC comparison. Very in depth.

Click to expand...

... though one doesn't necessarily has to agree with nikonguy's conclusion, nice videos, but he's very amateurish, I agre with Albi86 on that. Don't miss his bonus video "how to shoot a model"

Esp. him saying that the vc is great for handheld video - I could not second to that, because while the frame is more stable, it jumps around like with any IS, no substitute for stabilization gear. And he only tries very few "walk in the park" situations, so every potential Tamron buyer has to figure out how much the "onion" bokeh concerns his/her shots.

Digital zoom? Never used and never will. If moire wasn't bad enough you then want to stretch the resolution of the lens to breaking point. It's a bullet point to hook consumers, nobody serious about video would entertain a digital zoom IMHO.

bkorcel said:

The IS at 200mm or more with the extenders makes up for it though.

Click to expand...

Shooting at 400mm (with 2X TC III) hand-held is greatly helped by the excellent IS on the 70-200 f/2.8 II. Carrying a tripod is often talked about but seldom done IME.


DZ3C4750 by drjlo1, on Flickr

briansquibb said:

holzphoto said:

Support of "discontinued" models usually last around 7 years.

Click to expand...

I believe it may have to under EU law

Click to expand...

With the 1DX's rolling in, that'll mean more 1D4's for Brian and me

wockawocka said:

It's not about the lack of pixels but the space it affords them.

The pixels are what? 10% bigger than the 5D3's?

ISO stops = 100,200,400,800,1600,3200,6400,12800,25600,51200 - 10 stops.

10% bigger pixels = extra stop of performance.

Click to expand...

This is irresponsibly terrible logic. You found the number 10 twice (incorrectly, and in arbitrary places, I might add) and concluded that there's a relationship. I'm not sure if you're parodying terrible logic or are serious; my apologies if your post was a joke (subtle humor is lost on me over the internet!).

Assuming gapless microlenses, the 1DX has pixels that are 23% larger by surface area (5760/5184)^2, not 10%. And it doesn't matter because the surface area that collects light is roughly the same on both cameras. If the 5D has smaller pixels, it has more of them, and this cancels out almost exactly except maybe in terms of collecting light at very oblique angles. The D800 is maybe 3-4% less light efficient than the D4 despite having more than twice as many pixels--that's the tiny extent to which megapixel count effects light sensitivity (assuming you have a very clean ADC, as those cameras do).

The issue is likely with read noise. The 5D III (if I remember correctly) is >50% efficient, an improvement over the mark II that is achieved with gapless microlenses, but it has very high read noise. There 1DX likely has very similar quantum efficiency but a better ADC. It obviously has a better sensor but not because there are fewer pixels.

cszy67 said:

As I understand it, the introduction of the APS-H was largely a business decision used to maximize profit and had nothing to do with addressing the needs of the consumer. It was a solution looking for a problem.

Let's be honest, no one else offers anything in that particular size. Canon made a business decision, attempted to be "first to market", the market responded with a "meh," and now there is the odd-ball APS-H sensor that really has no place.

I imagine the owners of APS-H rigs feel quite differently but the truth is the truth.

Click to expand...

Damn I dont think all the sports shooters and associated press photographers got that memo, you better go let them know they should be shooting rebels instead :

I had a different problem: I had put the firmware file on the CF-card, but had a SD-card in the camera as well. As soon as I chose update from the menu, before even being asked which file to use, the camera appeard to freeze. After taking the battery and cards out, it eventually returned to normal state and I could continue using it, but, of course, I had to try again. In about the 5th try, I found the solution:

The camera seemed to be looking for the firmware on my SD-card. When I tried upgrading from the CF-card, without the SD-card present, the upgrade procedure ran straight through as expected, no problems!