ookkerpak, as far as i konw there's no way to claim your tax back unless you purchase something in Hainan province which is China's second largest island but it's far from Shanghai, so please don't get too exited about that.

If a brand new 5D3 (any Canon related product) is sold by Canon China, the package should always have two stickers, one on the top and the other on the joint where you open the box. There's a series of code on the top sticker, you can enter the code into this website http://www.canon.com.cn/support/authenticity/index.html to check its authentication. The joint sticker(once off) has to be removed before you open the package.

It has to be smuggle product if there's no such stickers on the package. They are a bit cheaper and most of them are still genuine products from Canon HongKong. There's no difference except the warranty.

But I still suggest you to go for the genuine Chinese stock for peace of mind.

Strange as it may seem, mine's AF works at f/8 (such as f5,6 lens plus 1,4 extender).

Did Mr Miranda try this ?

I don't shoot whole football matches , but use mine every day, no LV and I'm getting 1200... I miss the 2800 of the 1d3...

cogden said:

Thanks to all for the tutelage! I just tried it out the Oslo airport hotel window, with a loaner 800mm, at the planes landing/taking off and I think I've got it nailed.

One surprise discovery: if you press the LCD Light button while reviewing images, it brings up the Screen Brightness adjustment. (the tradeoff is that you lose the ability to illuminate the lower LCD to find the voice recorder button)

Nice easter egg (to me anyway).

Click to expand...

I worked ten years at the electronicsshop at Gardermoen (Osl airport) a few parties at that hotel, LOL.

KKCFamilyman said:

Thanks everyone again. I do agree that this will cover my immediate needs for reach beyond 105 mm. It will give me a budget toward a L prime. Or the 24-70 ii if it ends up great. I also like the weight. The Iq is sharp wide open on my copy. I also want the speed lite 600ex to add for low light and I think that will be a better combo than the 2.8 version. I do have the 50mm 1.4. I think I will go for 35mm for my next prime. What is there for beyond 200mm? That's semi affordable?

Click to expand...

That's the range where things get interesting. Canon options include using the 1.4x, 70-300L and 100-400L. You might want to try the 1.4x first and see if that is sufficient. With a 70-200, the 70-300 is not as good a choice because so much of the range overlaps. So, try the extender first, then the 100-400. Beyond that, it gets heavy and expensive.

bdunbar79 said:

marekjoz said:

bdunbar79 said:

What? You think you're cool just b/c you get well-lit stadiums and I'm shooting in the trenches at DII college sports? 8)

Just kidding!! Beautiful shots!

Click to expand...

Come on, your photos are much better even if your stadium is contrasty or weak lit
I'm really amazed what 1dx and 300 2.8 or 70-200 2.8 II can do in good hands! Pretty impressive your work!

Click to expand...

Have you seen gary samples work with the 1DX? Now that is good 1DX work!

Click to expand...

yes, he's freezing the world

85L is hot garbage. 70-200 is nice to have for ceremony coverage but that 85. So good.

Yeah... what they said. Send it in.

If you need the extra burst then 7D or 1DIV would be the way to go. If you don't then the 5DIII is really a great camera.

I bought one to go with my 1DIV for shooting wildlife (Birds in flight + Static), landscapes and real estate commercially. The details are so much nicer then my 1DIV especially at higher ISO (Over 1250) that I ended up selling my 1DIV and picked up a second 5DIII body.

If its all about the burst rate then your question is easy to answer. If other factors weigh in then it opens up your options a bit. Considering that you are coming off of 3.4FPS then the 5DIII at 6FPS will feel like a machine gun, however it is a far cry from 10FPS of the 1DIV.

Good luck and happy shooting,

Fatalv said:

Hi,

I'm a lighting newbie and have been searching around for some softboxes/diffusion for two flashpoint 1000 watt tungsten hot lights I have. The hot lights have worked well (for the price) for a product photography shoot I did with a custom light box I built.

I would like to be able to use these lights for some portrait shots of my fiance. Adorama has these softboxes listed as flashpoint accessories http://www.adorama.com/FPSBPZ2436.html but I'm wondering how well these would work since the lights get rather hot. I'd very much like to prevent the chance of a fire happening in my studio room

Is it possible to use softboxes with constant output lights like these? Any other good options for me? I'd really like to get into some Alien Bee lighting down the road when I have more $$ but right now the budget is very limited.

Thanks in advance for all the insight!

Click to expand...

This will work with the softbox; I'm told that it was tested for 20 minutes and using a 1000 watt bulb. Do email me directly if you need any other information: [email protected]

5Dc/2 + 50mm 1.8/1.4.

Done.

$1599 on ebay for the body. Buy a lens separately. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=2968
Or, $2639 for the kit at Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001G5ZTMM/cpw-20/?me=ATVPDKIKX0DER.

I think its very interesting, but it has been around for a year or two.
They are likely talking it up again because they need another government grant. University research projects compete for the government research money, and MIT has a really good PR department.
Its not actually photography at a trillion times a second, thats just part of the PR hype.

You see the same hype with Black Silicone, every time they need more research money, its suddenly in the news.

A couple of Olympics shots - one of Laura Robson, the GB No1 female tennis player, and one of the Beach Volley Ball "arena"


Laura Robson by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 70-300mm DO at 300mm, 1/2000sec, f8.0, ISO1250


Beach Volley Ball by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 15mm, 1/1600sec, f5.0, ISO100

The entertainment:

Beach Volley Ball - The Entertainment by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF Canon 7D, 70-300mm DO at 210mm, 1/800sec, f5.6, ISO100

The sport

Beach Volley Ball - The Sport by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 70-300mm DO at 300mm, 1/800sec, f5.6, ISO100

Richard

Hi all,

I'm about to buy a Zeiss 50mm f/2 Makro. I want to hear some pros and cons of using this 50mm for video, using the 5D mark III.

Thanks, have a nice day,

Dave

Mt Spokane Photography said:

I do not see any pink goop in the disassembly images, but there is a wire in that area with pink or salmon colored insulation.
Send the camera in for service, its possible the wire has the insulation pinched and pulled off.
http://gizmodo.com/5901323/canon-5d-mark-iii-partial-teardown-dont-try-this-at-home

Click to expand...

Great how this article ends with an advert of Knob Creek Bourbon.
After dismantling the 5D MK III, you can sure need a drink to think over how to put it back together again ;D

nikkito said:

pretty cool pics, but hey, that's not Football!!! ;-)

this is football ;D

i did not take this pic, it was taken by:
Photo: Alejandro Pagni/AFP/Getty Images

Click to expand...

Hell yeah!

khv3412 said:

Look through the viewfinder, I see 4 black specks. Had Canon store to clean the sensor but the specks still there. They said sensor is clean & nothing effect the images. Do I need to send it to Canon Service for cleaning? My camera still underwarranty. It is free for first cleaning. Any one have suggestion? thanks.

Click to expand...

The VF is dirty, it doesn't affect the images however it bothers the heck out of me, so I would send it back to Canon for a cleaning since it's still under warranty, especially if you have a back-up camera. You have to be very careful with these new electronic viewfinders (7D, 5DIII, 1DX), since they scratch very easily!

Rich

A panoramic photo from the top of Bald Mountain in Old Forge, NY. On the way up to the Rondaxe Fire Tower. This photo was selected by Google Earth to showcase the region.

SolarGravity
www.solargravity.com

I'm begrudgingly coming round to the fact that this is the camera I have to upgrade to.

I'm currently shooting off two ancient 1D mk2's, which have done me proud, but I'm getting left behind in the tech race. They're good for the majority of stuff I shoot, but lacking in other areas, and I'm having to hire cameras to cope with the shoots where I need more than the mk2's can handle.

I was going to upgrade to the Mark 4, and maybe get a Ds Mk3 as backup, but having seen some of the high quality ISO shots (in particular Andy Rouse's owl shots), I think I'm going to can the idea of the Mk4.. My work is pretty varied, and the idea of being able to shoot at that high an ISO in certain situations is very tempting.

Still maybe get a Ds3 as backup (although I'll reserve judgement after using the 5dMk3 I'm hiring for a shoot this week).

The X looks like a phenomenal piece of kit, and considering I was going to spend £2, 800 on a Mk4, I think I'm going to have to justify the extra £1, 200.

Now then... Anyone want to buy a couple of Mamiya RB-67's with lenses etc etc etc?

Nick

NickAdams said:

Are you serious? Damn, I just sold mine last week !!!

Click to expand...

That sucks, but I posted this more than a week ago, sorry you missed it.

You forgot to mention the incredible batterylife on the Odin transmitter

Nice set of shots Jan. Very well taken.

A full fram will tend to show up any vinegetting more simple because its a bigger sensor using more of the image supplied by the lens. Stopping down gets rid of it sometimes, as you have found, or you can revers it in processing.

degies said:

Thanks all for the advice. I did not go with topbuy.com.au , but with the dealer I got all my other gear from

There is a change in my signature below ;D

Can't wait for Friday!

Click to expand...

Congratulations ... may the 5D MK III serve you well

Thanks for the quick response. I am shooting pics of my daughter's soccer tournament game today and at the first game i did notice a lag in the focusing. I did not know about the reduction in the AF. I am going to her second game in a few moments and I think I will leave the extender in the hotel room. I kind of regret bringing my FF on this trip. I think next time I will use my crop frame camera.

canon816 said:

DMITPHOTO said:

I've been shooting a lot of birds lately and one problem I've been having is keeping them in focus while flying. I have tried al servo, regular etc, and once in a while I'll hit in spot on, but usually in a burst out of 15 photos 3 will focus on the bird lol. Is there a technique or tip anyone might have for all those fast birds out there ?

using mono pod or ball head w/ 500mm sometimes with 1.4 or 2x extender

Click to expand...

Are you using center focus point? If you are using any type of zone focus then your camera might be grabbing on to whatever is within other focus points, especially if the birds are smaller or farther away.

Using such a long lens can take a lot of practice. When I went from 300mm to 600mm I was like a monkey with a match problem at first. Not saying you have not spent lots of time behind the lens, but for me I just had to practice practice practice.... and still getting better at it.

Also a small tip on getting BIF into your viewfinder is to orient the knob on your lens hood so it is directly centered on top of the end of the lens barrel. This way you can look over your hotshoe over the knob and line it up with a bird. Then just tilt the lens up just a tad while looking into the view finder and you will find it much quicker. The sooner you find it, the easier it will be to track.

Click to expand...

Just the single center focus point. And the knob is actually a fantastic tip!!! Thank you! I will just keep practicing