Great Joy EF Mount 1.8 Anamorphic Lens: For Stills, how to do a RAW workflow with de-squeeze of anamorphic image?

Once you desqueeze it and save it, its no longer raw. Saving to Tiff or PSD does not result in raw files. You can save as DNG if you select the option to embed the original raw. That makes it a huge file but its one way to get everything in a single file. If you can keep the sidecar file with desqueeze settings with it or incorparate them in the DNG, then you can develop the raw with desqueeze settings from the sidecar. Those settings can't go into the original raw file though.

Adobe Lightroom gives you the option to embed the settings in your DNG file so you can preserve the raw plus the settings. My file size from my R5 went from 54Mb to 115 MB so there is a cost. Its close to actually including the edits in the raw file but just a trick to make it work that way.
No, of course the TIFF and PSD files are not Raw files. I don't use Lightroom enough to work out the various minuets one might employ in it. But shouldn't smart objects in Photoshop retain their connection to the .cs2 or .cs3 file plus settings sidecars?

And even if not, couldn't you just bring the new Raw edit into the PS file and apply the adjustment layers you have already used on the old smart object? The Raw files don't go away just because you have used them to create something else. The aspect ratio change does produce pixels, but it takes less than 30 seconds to do. So it is not worth jumping through a lot of hoops to keep from having to do it again once you have reedited a photo.
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R5 LR noise

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but the default sharpening in LR can emphasis shot noise on the higher mp cameras. I find it’s best to mask slightly with the 5DS if I’m processing in LR. On a Mac if you hold the alt key down whilst moving the mask slider you get a black and white image of what’s being masked. I find this useful.
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R5 or R5c?

So with all the new information and experiences, what would be the best pick right now?
I am actually moving to 50% photo and 50% video right now.

I totally understand how Canon (unfortunately) tries to triple the camera's by making the R5 focussed on photo and R5c on Video.

I'm afraid the overheating and record time of the R5 are going to limit my video capabilities.
I'm also afraid the lack of IBIS and weather sealant are going to ruin my photo's.

So for me as a hybrid shooter, what would be the best pick?

I had this same dilemma. I decided to go with the R5 paired with the Atomos Ninja V+. B&H has the Ninja standard and + models on sale right now —> Link . I purchased Ninja V+ Camera Ready Bundle. Here are some links on how the Atomos supports the R5 video capability. Link 1 Link 2 Link 3 if you weren’t already aware. I decided against the R5c due to the lack of IBIS as I shoot more stills than video. Probably 70/30 stills. Also, the thickness of the R5c was a turn off for me when shooting stills.

Good luck! Both camera bodies look amazing!
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Industry News: Fujifilm announces the XF 150-600mm f/5.6-8 R LM OIS WR & XF 18-120mm f/4 R LM PZ

Canon definitely created huge buzz for wildlife with animal eye detect and 600 f11. Now everyone is trying a different approach and consumers definitely win.

The lens looks the game; also quite extreme long range at 900mm equivalent. 2.4m mfd and 225mm short end are big counters.. if it’s also soft on the long end then it’s losing quite a bit appeal.

Nice comparison between rf 100-500: equal to 160 to 800 equivalent with r7 32mp traditional sensor… vs 225 - 900 on a 26mp meh-stacked sensor (worst read out of any stacked sensor according to dp review) package price is absolutely identical.
But 100-500 is also a benchmark full frame lens when you don’t need tiny subjects e.g. people and landscape details.
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Has anyone found a strobe that will keep up with high speed continuous shooting?

I think you are missing a fundamental aspect of strobes. They will all hold enough power for a single full power output, which is the same as two half power flashes, four quarter power flashes etc. So it is no coincidence you are getting 8 flashes at 1/8th power!

It has nothing to do with recharge times as no strobe will reenergize its capacitors in a fraction of a second.

If you want more flashes in a burst turn the flash power down to 1/16, then you will get sixteen flashes in a second, well something close to it but you will get some fall off. If your strobe isn’t outputting enough light at 1/16 you need to open your aperture, raise your iso, or get a more powerful (higher output) flash.

If your current strobes are 600ws then no 600ws flash, however much you spend, is going to give you 12 flashes at 1/8th power in one second, you need a 1,000ws strobe set to 1/16. If your current strobe is 200ws then any 600ws flash will give you the same power you have now but for 12 consecutive flashes in one second.
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Multiple Slow Motion Settings on the C70?

Not sure whether this answers your question, but I’ll share what we do: set 60fps in the menu and shoot that way as default method; set custom button 7 to “Slow/Fast” and custom button 8 to “Slow/Fast FPS”. So when we do slow motion we hit 7 to enter S&F then immediately hit 8 and scroll to 120. If you wanted to do 30fps you’d do the same thing and in the last step scroll to 30. It’s a lot faster doing it than describing it in writing. Hope this helps.
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Effects of diffraction and R5/R6 sensor on resolution of f/5.6, f/7.1 and f/11 lenses and TCs

I am with you - Bryan Carnathan has already calculated that the diffraction limited aperture (DLA) is f = 5.2 only. That's the price you pay for small pixels. So, if you choose e.g. f/8 to get a nice sharp tele shot, if the light is good, you already left the range of maximum resolution. Well, at least, if you downsize the image to the level of a 20 MP sensor, you'll have no losses but the image quality should beat the old 20 MP 7D. Maybe I'd reside more frequently to MRAW images than with my 7D2, when I upgrade.
For people like me who use mainly telephotos with apertures narrower than f/7.1, the the resolution of the R10 is good enough. But, if you are using f/2.8 or f/4, lenses or wider then diffraction isn’t much of a problem.
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AWAKENING | A Short Film shot on the Canon R6

Over the past month I've had the pleasure of going out and capturing a ton of footage and putting it together into this short film. I spent a lot of time waking up at around three in the morning, driving out to Shenandoah National Park, and filming with my Canon EOS R6, but it was time well spent. God revealed the beauty of his creation over those trips and I can't wait to return to the mountains and capture more! Until then, enjoy 'Awakening,' my latest short film!

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R7 Autofocus

There is info about the new Canon R7 here, including a reasonably helpful description about the R7's AF / autofocus.


"
The EOS R7 gains the same autofocus system as the R10. This dispenses with the separate Face/Tracking focus mode and instead lets you engage tracking as an option when using any of the AF area or zone modes. This means you get the choice of how to initiate tracking, using an AF target that's a good fit for the subject you're trying to shoot.

The AF areas now include three customizable AF zones whose size and shape can be adjusted.
You can set the camera to recognize humans, animals or vehicles. The human-recognition mode is distinct from the face/eye detection that remains available, even if the recognition mode is turned off.

In addition, the EOS R7 has the subject recognition modes inherited from the EOS R3, letting you choose to prioritize people, animals or vehicles. Given the slower read-out of the R7's FSI-CMOS sensor, we don't necessarily expect the same AF performance as Canon's sporting mirrorless model, but the R7 should be just as good at identifying subjects of the type you select."
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Unconfirmed Canon EOS R7 Specifications [CR1]

A matter of opinion, indeed. Let’s not forget that the 7D series was so successful it was refreshed even less frequently than the 1-series. That’s fact. Let’s not forget that the 7D series was so successful that Canon didn’t bother releasing a MkIII model and instead brought out a 90D with many of the 7-series features. Also fact.

Hundreds of thousands of bird & wildlife photographers that would snap up this camera? Not fact, merely your opinion.

You’re right about Canon knowing the market, but that really doesn’t bode well for the CR forum members who want a ‘cropped pro camera’, of which over the past 13 years Canon has launched only two.
Looks like that’s about to change!
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Patent: A new optical design for Tilt-Shift lenses

operated with lens rings
Like these:


Tilt without any [normal] shift would be a mighty specialised lens.
I expect a fast tilt only prime for event and sport photography a135mm 2.8 e.g.

A zoom would probably to large, to heavy, to expensive and to fragile to get in the market.

Another question: which body could handle a electronic tilt lens?
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