Crap, no 1080p60 in their flagship HF G20, what gives?

thebowtie said:

Mencho(22) said:

an you please tell me what distance did you set your camera when doing AFMA with your 70-200?

Thanks.

Mencho

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Hi Mencho,
for the plain lens, I used the recommended 20-50x focal length rule. For 70mm I used 4.2m (60x), for 200mm I used 6.8m (34x) - that's all the room I had in my backyard.

When I attached the 1.4x, I did the AFMA at about 9.3m - 33x (I had to put the target at the end of the yard, and the camera in the house, shooting through the open door.

HTH

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I am trying to honor the 50x focal lenght with all my lenses... Besides I have doubts with focal lenghts larger than 200mm.

For a 300mm ... microadjusting at 15mm seems to be a lot.

I just buy my new 5d3 and making the comparison with my 1dsmarkIII in low iso , 1ds3 was superior specially in skin tones and sharpness I think cause antaliasing filter . But in high iso, day and night for 5d3 ,that make my main job back stage cine and tv photographer, a piece of cake from now on.
Sorry about my very bad English .

Dylan777 said:

IIIHobbs said:

I understand the need to raise funds for the zoom, but at the loss of the 24LII?!? That I think is a mistake. Being that the cost of the new 24-70 is steep, you may want to try it before you buy it.

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How do you know? have you ever try 24-70 II? I tried 24mm and currently own 24-70 II....IT'S NOT A MISTAKE.

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I use both the 24mm and 24-70 ii. They're different tools for different purposes. The 24mm lets in up to 4x as much light, and allows you to create wide shots with a shallow depth of field that simply cannot be achieved with the 24-70. If you don't use it for low light or shallow dof, say for example if you're mainly shooting landscapes at f8 then there's little reason to keep the 24mm.

However, the 24mm is a great lens which does things you cannot do with a f2.8 zoom. Whether its worth keeping alongside a zoom lens which covers 24mm depends on your style of photography/cinematography.

AprilForever said:

Those sort of lenses are in broadcasting. I once saw a 18-300 (I think...) f 1.4!!!

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These lenses are designed for 2/3 inch cameras outputting 1080p, not FF DSLR's resolving upwards of 20mp. It's much easier to design a lens for a smaller sensor.

The closer u fit the pixels on the sensor near each other the easier noise will start to appear. And any kind of noise even if so subtle means image loss.
In worst case u have a P&S camera with a really tiny sensor with many pixels so close to each other that it will be outresolved by the same sensor with less megapixels.
Some people even say the 1100D has the best IQ in the APS-C line due to this. It just got 12MP but "perceptual MP" is more like 16MP.
But i think this is really not an issue on APS-C or FF sensors. APS-C would be like 60megapixels or such before the pixels come too close to each other.

Lance James said:

Ryan, thanks so much for taking the time to respond. I bit the bullet tonight and ordered the Mark III =)

Can't wait to get it now and start learning how to use the dang thing. My next posts will be questions about how to use it.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Lance

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Hi, so that was april... Are you happy with it ?

my 10d is still working well, it goes with me everywhere since summer '03, just got new shutter for 86 bucks. other than that, it still a great camera !!!!

They extended most of the rebates to Feb. 2nd on Friday afternoon. I didn't pay attention and missed out on the 24-70 2.8 II but that was a separate promotion. Good luck with your purchases as it's one of the lens on my list.

EOBeav said:

awinphoto said:

For what it's worth... if F4 isn't enough to stop action, F2.8 likely wont either,

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Huh? Then why do lens companies spend the extra R&D money developing lenses an entire stop faster?

OP: For $1200, you should be able to get the 135 f/2 L as well as a 50mm f/1.4. Those two lenses would go a long ways in shooting the events you described.

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Exactly. 95% of my sports photos are at f/2.8. I wouldn't shoot at f/4 indoors; that's an entire stop of light!

Hello,

Are there any photographers in the Toronto area that are in need of an assistant? If so email me at [email protected].

Thanks,

littlepilotdude

http://www.stockhammedia.com/2013/01/06/amazing-landscape-photography-big-sur-monterey-san-francisco/

the 135L isn't the sharpest partner for a 1.4x TC:

http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=108&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=3&API=1&LensComp=687&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=0

The 1.4x TC is a much cheaper (and lighter) option than the 70-200 II, but if you can afford it and don't mind the weight, the 70-200 II really is something else.

Well... I finally went for the 600. Thanks for all the comments and help b

Scarpz13 said:

But does anyone know if you can control ETTL settings, etc, of the 580 from the camera with a 90EX as the master? I thought you could but again have no idea really

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Yes, a 90EX would provide full E-TTL or manual control of your 580EX II.

Single shot
1/1250, f/8, ISO 400, 70-200 f/4, 70mm, 5D3

Ok so it's not a 24-70 I don't have one and don't have the 70-200 any longer either!

Thanks for posting the pictures...

Hello,

I read some discussions about UV / clear filters for the 17-40L and wanted to share my experience.

I recently purchased 5DIII + 17-40L + B+W Filter UV (010) XS Pro Digital MRC Nano D77mm.

Yes, though it's a slim filter you CAN still attach the original Canon lens cap provided with the 17-40L. But the lens cap does NOT fit completely. The front thread is not deep enough.

So there was a problem : the DSLR is stocked all day in a top loader bag, pointing down. And there was a pressure on the lens cap due to body + lens weight. 3 days ago, I found the filter completely broken. And I could CLEARLY see that the starting point of the broken zone is on the border where the lens cap pushed...

Now, I'll buy a F-Pro mount...

Just to share my experience...

Cheers,

Could be lens size?
is the 24-70 matches the length to 70-200 when you zoom in 24-70 to 70mm???

wild guess

Mikael Risedal said:

I'm waiting for the Sigma lens and test it out on a d800, Im going on a long work trip in Vietnam,Kambodja and Laos in march and decided to have Nikon gears with me this time instead of Canon. First time since 2006 I will rely on Nikon and maybe also a Sigma 35mm. Compared to Nikon 35/1,4 and Canon 35/1, 4, all tests looks stunning good so far .

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I think you will be impressed by the Sigma. I haven't found a weakness yet. It's sharp across the frame at all aperatures, fast and accurate AF and I haven't even gotten it to flare so far. I think the bokeh issue is silly and subjective. Is March the rainy season? I mention this because the fit and finish of the lens makes it appear to be weather sealed, but, for some reason sigma didn't put a gasket at the lens mount...

I was just surfing around petapixel and ended up checking this out:
http://goo.gl/wbxIc
Truly amazing shots, once in a life time you are able to get such as pictures around that huge city!.. Truly amazing..

Looks like Canon no longer has to fear Sony, it has to fear Samsung.

FatDaddyJones said:

Diverman said:

I will definitely bring a CP with me, as well as a ND.

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A neutral density filter is what I forgot the last time I went to a national park... Yellowstone, in my case. NDs are a must for taking proper exposures of all the awesome waterfalls and rapids, if you want that soft, velvety water look. At glacier, you'll use it a LOT.

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Good point, but I kind of stopped using mine. A CP and careful settings seems to do just fine most of the time. Definitely not a bad idea to have one, though. Glacier is, IMHO, a water park at its heart.


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http://michaelhodgesfiction.com/

michaelstringer said:

I think you may have misread my review (or I wasn't very clear). The 5D IIIs AF is excellent and fast in all situations - including low light. Very low light is obviously more of a challenge but mostly it locks fine. The 6D however has a slightly better centre point in near darkness - it locks a bit quicker and doesn't seem to hunt at all (yet).

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Thanks for the clarification, but it was actually others in this thread that were complaining about the 5D3's low light focusing performance. =)

my stofen fits on both my 550 and 580... don't think that much difference either with the 600