2003 vs 2013 17-40/4L

I have worked a 17-40 pretty hard since I bought it in 2003, and it still works like new. Even so, they're inexpensive and you may as well get a new one. You'll know its history, and benefit from the possible silent updates Dr Neuro referred to. The 17-40 is a beauty. It's light, takes 77mm filters and matches the 16-35 f/2.8II from f/5.6 - f/11. However if you're hoping for stellar output wide open, you'll possibly be disappointed.

-PW
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January 8th Lens release rumor... a dud or a ruse?

The poster apparently thinks that rumors posted here are due to some magical link into Canon.

There is no such thing. The rumors are based on input from e-mails, and receive a CR rating based on their reliability, CR1 being the lowest reliability, while CR3 means a sure thing.
Its all for what -if and fun, and if you have to take it seriously, a rumor site will definitely leave you unhappy.
Canon is extremely protective about letting information out, and lenses are the hardest to predict. Usually, the CR3 rumors happen because someone somewhere makes a accidental slip and posts embargoed information.
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Want 400mm reach (FF) - 70-200 2.8 IS II + 2x III or 400 5.6L?

thebowtie said:
Folks,
Thanks to all for your advice and opinions - it has helped me make a simple (mostly financial) decision - I'll add the Extender EF 2x III to my collection.

An additional benefit will be that I will be able to take the 70-200 lens and get into a venue (I live in Sydney, Australia) for Twenty20 cricket whilst keeping the 2xIII in my pocket - and not get hassled for a too-large lens.

I already have a Manfrotto CF monopod and head - hopefully the gate people won't give me grief about that (no problems last time - I extended it and used it as a walking-stick on the way in!)

Cheers

I would have done the same! :)

Having said that, a used 7D can be had for $800-900 these days. If you use that with your 280mm, you get about 450mm and an extra body :)
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Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG HSM First Impressions

Just unboxed my copy this night. It is not a picture to remember, but to my unskilled eyes it looks quite sharp. Camera 5D II and ISO 100, AWB. The first is the original downsized to 150 to get the file small enough, and the other one is a 100 percent crop of the first knife in focus.

G.

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Canon 6D review with lots of images and tests

It is unfortunate that the 6D feels like it was designed in a board room and not by engineers trying to bring the best tech possible to a $2000 camera based on the needs of photographers using $2000 cameras. Fortunately for Canon, Nikon continues to struggle when it comes to video and the D600 was a pain to use for video giving the 6D an edge. Though Nikon is still killing canon in dynamic range, especially in the shadows. I'm having a difficult time recommending the 6D to anyone who shoots primarily photos unless they NEED wifii. And even then...
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AFMA w/ 1.4 extenders

thebowtie said:
Mencho(22) said:
an you please tell me what distance did you set your camera when doing AFMA with your 70-200?

Thanks.

Mencho

Hi Mencho,
for the plain lens, I used the recommended 20-50x focal length rule. For 70mm I used 4.2m (60x), for 200mm I used 6.8m (34x) - that's all the room I had in my backyard.

When I attached the 1.4x, I did the AFMA at about 9.3m - 33x (I had to put the target at the end of the yard, and the camera in the house, shooting through the open door.

HTH

I am trying to honor the 50x focal lenght with all my lenses... Besides I have doubts with focal lenghts larger than 200mm.

For a 300mm ... microadjusting at 15mm seems to be a lot.
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Canon 24-70 II Or Primes Particularly 50MM 1.2L

Dylan777 said:
IIIHobbs said:
I understand the need to raise funds for the zoom, but at the loss of the 24LII?!? That I think is a mistake. Being that the cost of the new 24-70 is steep, you may want to try it before you buy it.

How do you know? have you ever try 24-70 II? I tried 24mm and currently own 24-70 II....IT'S NOT A MISTAKE.

I use both the 24mm and 24-70 ii. They're different tools for different purposes. The 24mm lets in up to 4x as much light, and allows you to create wide shots with a shallow depth of field that simply cannot be achieved with the 24-70. If you don't use it for low light or shallow dof, say for example if you're mainly shooting landscapes at f8 then there's little reason to keep the 24mm.

However, the 24mm is a great lens which does things you cannot do with a f2.8 zoom. Whether its worth keeping alongside a zoom lens which covers 24mm depends on your style of photography/cinematography.
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DxOMark "Perceptual Megapixel"

The closer u fit the pixels on the sensor near each other the easier noise will start to appear. And any kind of noise even if so subtle means image loss.
In worst case u have a P&S camera with a really tiny sensor with many pixels so close to each other that it will be outresolved by the same sensor with less megapixels.
Some people even say the 1100D has the best IQ in the APS-C line due to this. It just got 12MP but "perceptual MP" is more like 16MP.
But i think this is really not an issue on APS-C or FF sensors. APS-C would be like 60megapixels or such before the pixels come too close to each other.
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Don't want to make a rookie mistake

EOBeav said:
awinphoto said:
For what it's worth... if F4 isn't enough to stop action, F2.8 likely wont either,

Huh? Then why do lens companies spend the extra R&D money developing lenses an entire stop faster?

OP: For $1200, you should be able to get the 135 f/2 L as well as a 50mm f/1.4. Those two lenses would go a long ways in shooting the events you described.

Exactly. 95% of my sports photos are at f/2.8. I wouldn't shoot at f/4 indoors; that's an entire stop of light!
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