teddywish said:

I found that there's a huge difference between the image preview (RAW) on the rear LCD

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You're not looking at the RAW image, you're looking at a jpg preview image processed in-camera and stored within the RAw container. That jpg is converted using the picture style and other settings (e.g. ALO) that you have set on the camera, and note that the jpg is used to generate the histogram, too.

sanj said:

I have had a super duper experience shopping for 5d3 at Adorama. No one else seemed to have one in stock but Adorama shipped me promptly. This is just few days after 5d3 started selling...

I am so impressed by them that I have changed my loyalties from B&H to them. Will do all my future purchasing from them.

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I did that a long time ago when adorama started offering free shipping where BH made you pay for shipping... Now BH is offering free shipping on certain items, like adorama but its too late.

@DB

The cable I showed in the picture above has -25dB attenuation (really to avoid the problems of AGC in the 7D), but it introduces zero noise whatsoever.

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No, I suspect the -25db attenuation is to reduce the level from the zooms headphone out to an acceptable level for microphone in.

A constant -25db attenuation would have no effect on AGC, as it would a) boost the noisy pre-amps to compensate and b) still be all over the place between noisy and quiet bits.

The AGC disable function of the beachtek pumps a constant signal on the left channel (which is actually the channel the AGC uses to meter) just above the audible range, which ticks the AGC into staying at a fixed level, you can now use the clean right channel for sound, with the level controlled via the beachtek. At a push you can also use the left channel, though you'd want to run a low pass filter on it.

The cable on it's own will not solve the 7D agc problem. None of which is relevant to the OP, who is using a 5D3 with manual levels.

Well, since you already have the 70-200 I would suggest against 300mm lenses. Yes you will get more reach, but it's not going to be that much more.
Sigma's 150-500 is certainly going to give you the most reach that is realistically affordable for the average joe. I have not heard much good about that one however. Lensrentals rated this one with a failure rate of 45% before they took them out of their service. Normally I am a fan of Sigma, but in this case I did not go for it.

I recently purchased Canon's 100-400 4.5-5.6 L and absolutely love it. I find it's an extremely versatile and fast lens and while it's certainly not a lightweight it is considerably lighter than Sigmas 150-500 monster. It also works with a teleconverter and actually does produce some really nice images with it. (Be aware though, at the long end you'll have a maximum aperture of 11 and no AF throughout the whole range) This is what I recently captured with my Sigma 2x converter:

(See larger version here)
Yes you might loose some IQ, but less than what you would get when blowing up the image by a factor of 2. (Though it is of course not useable at all when trying to capture action)

If you really need the reach you might want to look into Sigma's 50-500, this ones seems to be a bit more reliable. (But even heavier and more expensive than the 150-500)

I have my 5DIII set to dual card recording - RAWs on CF and JPEGs on SD for periods when I need photos right from the camera. The problem is that sometimes I delete failed shots right after viewing them on the camera's LCD screen, but they are deleted only from one of the cards. Is there an option to delete both files from both cards?

Sorry if it's been already asked, I have failed to find similar topics despite my best efforts :<
Thank you.

I've just seen it rumoured in the press here that Canon is to inject cash in UK retailer Jessops photographic. Jessops have been going through some tough times recently.

Bennymiata said:

Sorry to sound dumb, but what is SDK, and what does it do that the normal 5D3 doesn't?

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SDK is Software Development Kit.
Basically, it allows software developers to do things to the camera while it's plugged into a PC via usb.
In short, you don't need it.

But software like Lightroom and Capture One, to use the the 5D3 in tethered-mode (like you can do with Canon software already, whatever it's called), or for the Reikan FoCal auto-AFMA software to do its thing.
So you may not need it, but you're more likely to use some software that couldn't be made without it.

Still, once the SDK is released it could be anything from a week or two of testing to a few months of full software development before we see anything based on it...

Generally, you are on your own. Canon is probably not going to license anything to you, but they will sue you if you infringe on any of their 50,000 or so patents. As far as their SDK, you can view the agreement when you download it, there are several businesses that sell software that makes use of it.

There is a reason why Camera makers avoid getting involved, they want to be able to change their design whenever they have a better one, and not be getting sued for making someone's device or software unusable. Thats why Adobe does their own software, and the third party lens makers are totally independent, they get no help or information.

If you design and sell something, and a week later, a Canon change renders your item non functional, its totally your problem to deal with.

Imho, importing them directly from the camera is not the best way (a understatement). Get a card reader, most modern computers have one built in.

As to importing images over and over, if you have deleted them, or moved them to a different folder or location, that would possibly cause this to happen.

After you have imported your photos and backed them up, format your card in the camera before taking more images.

Software like Adobe Lightroom will recognize that you have imported them already, and skip them. Thats assuming that you did not delete someof them from the computer.

As much as I love my 85L II for portraits, its AF is *just* slow enough to end up in missed shots with active children not to mention moving bees.

135L is not called the "magic prime" for no reason, and its price is certainly THE bargain in the L lens lineup.
Below is 135L shot wide open at f/2.0, and below that is 100% crop (!). I really don't think even 85L has melting cheese like these.


World Melting by drjlo1, on Flickr


100% Crop! by drjlo1, on Flickr

cayenne said:

cpsico said:

What is an easy to use program i can use to burn dvds from my .mov files from my canon 5d II? I am new to video and would really like some help

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What OS are you working with? Windows (which version?), OSX, or Linux?

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I am using 64bit vista ultimate sp2

you can see photos of my "modified" L brackets here
http://peakdesignltd.com/blog/2012/04/26/l-bracket-compatibility-for-capture
I also had to take the dremel to the lip around the thread and shaft of the BR TR-1 connector too to help it fit

another thing i have noticed that the rough metal to metal interface locks it in so tight they have zero chance of accidentally coming undone Its actually a bit of a pain to take them off but i take the L brackets off the cameras so rarely its a non issue.

RLPhoto said:

gizzy said:

i need help here
i just boght canon rebel t3i and need to know what is the best lens
for jewelery shots with great details
im looking foward for answers so i can finally buy the lens
as i been in the look for over 3 month but in the stores they just want to sell a lens

pleasee osme help

thanks!!!​

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Easy, the very best macro lens for you camera is either the 180mm 3.5L or the 60mm mp-e.

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MP-E 65

Too easy...not worthy of a great complaint

razbo said:

I accidentally formatted my cf card In my canon 5dmk2 and lost all my video files, can these be recovered in anyway,


Thanks

Raz

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Raz, i've used Recuva (http://www.piriform.com/recuva) in the past. It's free and it worked for me.

Chris

Yeah I agree, it definitely does benefit from a bit of sharpening, and I wouldn't say it looks over sharpened. But there may be areas of the image that aren't responding as well to the sharpening, effectively over sharpening parts of it while the rest of it looks just fine.. I'm not sure what's causing the specific issue with the reds, but I'll check out some footage and see if I'm getting similar issues.

Canon teleconverters work only with specific Canon lenses. All other teleconverters are fine I guess (You can check with the Tamron 2X you mentioned- but don't get it back from your sister ;D )

Camera Raw 6.7 Update
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5371

Support for the following cameras has been added in this update.

- Canon EOS 1D X
- Canon 5D Mark III
- Canon PowerShot G1 X
- Canon PowerShot S100V
- Fuji FinePix F505EXR
- Fuji FinePix F605EXR
- Fuji FinePix F770EXR
- Fuji FinePix F775EXR
- Fuji FinePix HS30EXR
- Fuji FinePix HS33EXR
- Fuji FinePix X-S1
- Nikon D4
- Nikon D800
- Nikon D800E
- Olympus E-M5
- Pentax K-01
- Samsung NX20
- Samsung NX210
- Samsung NX1000
- Sony Alpha NEX-VG20
- Sony SLT-A57

For Adobe Creative Suite 5 or Photoshop CS5 software.

untitled10 said:

A while ago there was a suggestion the the 17-40 f/4 would be upgraded to a 17-40 f/2.8-4, if this happened I would stick to the f/4 edition

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Well, you could always set the aperture to f/4, then when you zoom out it doesn't go out to f/2.8 it just stays at f/4.
Noone's forcing you to use the f/2.8, but if the max is f/2.8 at the wide end and you're only using it at f/4, then it'll probably be sharper than using an f/4 lens at f/4.
(of course, it'll probably be more expensive, but that's another story)

I could have sworn it has happened when turned off. I pull out the CF card, upload it it to computer, put it back in the camera, all the while the camera is off and it switches to slot 2. I could be wrong on this though, I just tried it half a dozen times and it is not happening.

It makes sense that the card slots would be non-revertive - I would design it the same way to be deterministic.

Marsu42 said:

briansquibb said:

The PW mini/flex system has its own HSS implementation that uses less power and gives faster recycle time. Their approach means the switch to HSS is seamless in that the shutter speed determines whether HSS is to used or not, whereas on the Canon system it has to be physically turned on

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Thanks for the information! Since the Canon radio tech is so expensive and still doesn't to remote 2nd curtain sync I guess it's still the best option to get the older IR tech with radio addons ... at the moment at least, when Canon starts only selling 600rt/440rt the 3rd party solutions might be a dead end?

Pushing one button on the flash thus isn't the biggest problem (it still does x-sync up to 1/250s), but it's indeed strange that Canon lets users push a button anyway now that you mention it.

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The PW approach means that any eTTL flash can be used - including for example the non HSS, non IR speedlite such as the Nissin 622 - which means cheap speedlites can be used.

Currently the Canon 600 doesn't support the old IR speedlights will need to be supported for some time. I currently use a mixture of Nissin/430EXII/580EX/580EXII speedlights. I need quantity of lights so the ability to utilise cheaper speedlights is good news for me.

At the moment 550EX are very cheap so I might be adding several of those.

It is the ability to seamlessly move to HSS which is a big plus to me - I shoot a lot at 1/1000 - and the low power take/quick refresh is important to me

Having used the 1 series for some time I dislike the toylike size of the 7D.

I hope the high mp uses a full size body + a joystick in portrait mode

Shooting your son playing soccer at wide open may be a challenge. What's your requirement of sharpness, the body, face or the eye? Using AI Servo mode (Menu P. 70) and High speed continuous shooting (Menu P. 112). You may try AF point expansion and set the AI Servo AF to case 4 (Menu P.85). Depend on your sharpness requirement, you may choose to set AI Servo 1st/2nd image priority accordingly (Menu P.94)

I used 5D II shooting my 3 year old son running in park. To get sharp focus on eye with aperture wide open was difficult. Just got my 5D III and hasn't tried it yet.

I think Canon should not bill us fully for making us wait so long for the 1DX since it was delayed and we had put money out. Maybe take $300.00-500.00 off... but this is wishful thinking... We won't be billed until it ships so maybe bill us at lower price and credit the amount... ;D

hawkins132 said:

I used to use 580 EX II as a master to trigger slaves as well, and I turn the 580EX II master flash to off. It will still pre-flash. It shouldn't contribute to exposure, as I've never noticed as issues in the end result.

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I tested this last week when someone else had posted it - I pointed my two 580EXII's at a mirror, one on camera and one off camera. I changed between the master being on and off and in both cases there was a hot spot in the frame - the only difference being when off the hotspot was slightly smaller. I tried it with both a 40D and 5D3. Someone else chimed in to say their 5D2 and 5Dc behave the same way.