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dochawk · May 16, 2012

Just thought people might be interested in Jay Goodrich's practical field test of the 1DX

http://jaygoodrich-blog.com/2012/04/field-testing-the-canon-1dx/?utm_source=May+2012+Participant+Mailing&utm_campaign=March+2012+Newsletter&utm_medium=email

solargravity · May 16, 2012

Wow, what a fascinating and informative thread. I have been waiting to make a decision on this exact topic and I can't tell you how much this helped me.

I will post my experience as soon as I pull the trigger.

Thanks again!!

www.solargravity.com

kdsand · May 16, 2012

Automated is great but but usually only up to a point & then there are always trade offs. We do not yet have robotic engineers and maintenance personnel not yet. For now you increase automation and you also increase the need for more maintenance personnel and quality control personal.

I believe it's still generally the most -effective- having work cells with human elements.

Sadly skilled trade workers are often replaced with totally incompetent & untrained so called production workers.

No insult meant for any of you mechanical engineers out there but....... :

I've seen far too many cases of engineers wanting show off or impress and end up totally totally screwing up production lines. :'(

Sometimes the better mousetrap is quite simply still a cat.

I'm guessing - I'm hoping that Canon will do it right and do a good job of it. I also doubt that it's actually going to be completely automated. Not like they're making pop bottles................. :-\

dunkers · May 16, 2012

PerfectSavage said:
neuroanatomist said:

PerfectSavage said:

The 7D has a better build quality and sealings than the 5DII and equal to the 5D3 and 1Dx.

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Ummm...no. The 7D has better build quality and sealings than the 5DII and equal to the 5DIII - that part is true. The 1D X is a substantial step up in both build quality and weather sealing. The ranking is 1-series >> 7D = 5DIII > 5DII = 50D/60D.

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Hard to say exactly given the production 1Dx isn't even out yet, no? What is going to be different in the 1Dx from the 5D3 sealing-wise?...because my 5D3 is exactly the same as my 7D in terms of housing (from what I can see/touch at least)

I've had the opportunity to play with the 1DC (essentially a 1DX) and it feels substantially beefier than the 7D.

I'd have no qualms about using a 1DC as a blunt object to fend off thieves. I'd be a little hesitant to do so using a 7D. But then again, there are plenty of DigitalRev videos that show just how durable a DSLR can be.....

May 16, 2012

Northstar said:
I wound up buying a Lens Align kit from michaeltapesdesign.com and a WhiBal as well, and found several lenses front or back focusing.

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when using one of these kits, how long does it take per lens?

Takes me about 30 minutes per focal length tested using the LensAlign Pro. FoCal is not that much faster - the difference is that I can do something else during the calibration.

bdunbar79 · May 16, 2012

HarryWintergreen said:
Marsu42 said:

ssrdd said:

its too expensive.. [its not wide and close enough focal length].

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As far as I see it, the 24-70ii is designed as an event and wedding lens to work in combination with Canon's other standard for these occasions: the 70-200ii. I guess Canon figured that when shooting people, you don't really need IS for this zoom range because of the min. shutter speed for moving objects, and that for professionals it's in the exact 70-200ii price range they're used to get for their work.

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I agree with you guys on this one. Clearly the 24L, 35L and 70-200 L II IS are very, very good lenses. Maybe Canon designed this one for those that need not go below f/2.8 and don't have the 24 and 35L's? If you had the money, I'm sure it would add flexibility if you don't want to keep changing primes. Me personally, I enjoy my 24-70 and 70-200, and I also have the 35L because I shoot a lot down there, and having all 3 gives me great flexibility. At 50mm, my 24-70L performs just as well on IQ as the 50 f/1.4, however, I cannot go in lower light as the prime. Just some thoughts!

very good point!

May 16, 2012

Drizzt321 said:
PhilDrinkwater said:

Drizzt321 said:

You can actually, in the camera flash control menu, turn off the flash firing although the focus assist will still work.

Click to expand...

Really? I've literally never seen that - or is it a new 5d3 feature I've just not spotted yet? And I thought I'd been through every setting

Click to expand...

No, I've seen it on my 5d2 as well. It's in the External Flash control menu. I think. Maybe it's elsewhere, but I've used it in the past.

Thanks! I'll take a look..

May 16, 2012

This can be seen more when doing video as the camera is constantly on....

Quite simple to test this....charge a battery, go to the menu > battery level and note the % charge. Then, record video and let it continue until it stops at the 29xx mark. Then, note the battery level. Continue recording and repeat until the battery fails and the camera turns off. Note the battery % each time the camera stops recording. If you have another camera that accepts the LPE6 batteries, when it fails in the MIII, see if another camera can pull a charge and note the battery level in that camera.

JerryKnight · May 16, 2012

revup67 said:
You can still get around the 7 bracketed exposures. Not sure what the big deal about doing that is - quite simple. Put the unit in 7 bracket mode as mentioned above. Go to Exposure Comp./AEB setting and choose how you want the 7 laid out. Ex. all in 2/3 EC stops starting from 0 backward (Move M-Fn wheel until the layout is as you want it - in this case -4 would be the last one and 0 the first). Make sure camera is on tripod with release cable (best). Take the 7 shots. Go back and move the M-fn wheel so that +4 is the last one with the same 2/3 EC spread. Follow same procedure. Boom - done. Now you have 14 bracketed shots with two overlapped on 0. Simple.

That's great, but it's not only about the number of images, it's about the total dynamic range you can capture. From what you describe, you're getting a +/- 4 EV range. It should be possible to get, for example, a +/- 10 EV range. It doesn't have to meter to -10 EV; it just has to meter the scene normally and subtract 10 stops and increment from there.

Honestly, since you can do this exact procedure by hand, I think the simple (and obvious) solution is to get a solid tripod (which you should already have for landscapes), meter the scene and then slide the shutter speed as far down as possible and start manual shooting with faster shutter speeds. That's all they would have to do in firmware, so it's confusing why they always choose to limit AEB to +/- 3 or 4 EV.

Slashp · May 16, 2012

Mt Spokane Photography said:
neuroanatomist said:

Slashp said:

Should I return it to canon or the the dealer (B&H) since I received this lens with the 5D Mark III less than a month ago ?

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I'd start by calling B&H to see if they'll just swap out the lens for you. Else, you'll need to contact Canon Service.

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Looks like decentering to me, swap it out if possible, or send to Canon, but do it!

Hi,

I sent my copy yesterday. I'll keep you posted when it comes back to see if it gets any better.
John

criza · May 16, 2012

ontarian said:
If you decide against, please PM me the link, One of my two lens copies was destroyed during testing by a careless drop.

Ouch, I am sorry about the drop, and also that I bought it now. 8) Together with a A-1 from the same seller, so I can use the lens till your adapter is finished! Cheers.

bycostello · May 16, 2012

lot to be said for using the same camera, all menus buttons etc in the same place...

May 16, 2012

As I understand it, you'll lose dynamic range since ISO50 is a pull from ISO100. That means highlights will be less recoverable.

Not really my area but it's what I've heard.

davidbellissima · May 16, 2012

Check this out - possibly the best resource for newbie wedding photographers out there:

http://photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/?category=First+Timer+and+Newcomers+to+Wedding+Photog%2e

May 16, 2012

I use the set button to change ISO - you hold down set and use the front dial to move ISO up and down. It means, in manual, you can see the meter and therefore see what's happening with your exposure.

It's a function I use a lot and something I've wanted for years!

JerryKnight · May 16, 2012

Hardly worth its own post, but since you brought up annoyances...

Possible annoyance #4 - When shooting a burst, the LCD does not show any preview until the last shot of the burst is saved. It should show at least one of the earlier shots in the burst, so that you can quickly see the histogram. The workaround is to force it to preview by hitting the play button, but it should also work automatically.

robbymack · May 15, 2012

Buy the 17-55. I have one and it's awesome. Worst case you want to sell it in a few years (highly unlikely), if so the used prices of that lens will mean you're only out a few hundred at most. Consider it a long term rental fee.

Razor2012 · May 15, 2012

wickidwombat said:
Razor2012 said:

I just picked up the 100 2.8L, can hardly wait to use it.

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let me know if you get any funny noises from the IS on the 5Dmk3

None that I have noticed, did you get some?

May 15, 2012

justsomedude said:
Got an error 80 during a shoot last night. Camera totally froze... fixed it by popping the battery. Anyone seen this one yet, or know what the cause of it is?

Thanks.

Yep i had this with my 5D MK III I call them and they told me error 70-80 it is some kind of electronic failure
Sent it back to canon to fix I hope to have it back tomorrow

Iahcon · May 15, 2012

I dont know the lighting rules for Bar Mitsvahs but for the situations that you will be using lighting, for example your scenario in taking family photos, your thoughts are in the right direction. Since you already have a 580 I feel that you can get away with renting 1 more 580, two light stands and preferrably a couple of soft boxes, although umbrellas will do fine. This way you can light up the group with the 2 stands and fire them with a camera mounted transmitter. No flash required on camera with the stands. Your 24-105 will work fine for these shots. As far as renting other lenses, you need to consider your lighting in areas where flash will not be allowed. Your 85 will work good in dimly lit areas and be great for portraits, with or although flash. I understand you are on a budget so my recommendations are based on that. Since I own a flash bracket I would use it for this event. But still have it set up to bounce whenever possible. You may want to consider renting one of these as well but that all depends on your budget and ask yourself what are you going to be doing with these photographs. In other words, how important is it to achieve the absolute best results and at what cost.
As far as prints go, I use Mpix and have had good results with Adorama's services as well.
I hope all goes well!

JoeDavid · May 15, 2012

Does anyone have a more exact description of this problem? I have a 200/2L IS that is in the "affected" serial number range but, when I put it on my 5DM3, it autofocuses just fine with the IS enabled and there are no unusual noises; just the faint IS sound that you always hear. Is there a specific combination of IS, metering, and AF modes that the cameras and lens have to be set on for the "loud noise" to be emitted?

HurtinMinorKey · May 15, 2012

Thanks for all the advice! That Arri-Manual was great. I Plan on shooting with a c300. I have a 5D2, but I wanted to avoid using it as a B-Cam.

I plan on using QPCARDs for some general consistency throughout.

May 15, 2012

B-Man said:
almograve said:

Hello,

I'll be traveling to Singapore in a couple days,
I would like to take the opportunity to get a Canon 17-40 f4 L while I'm there.
Could you please advice a location where I could get good service and best pricing?

Thank you,
Almo

Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, why you need it to buy in Singapore? Is there no camera shops in your country that sell 17-40?

Thank you for the great help guys!

I do have shops that sell the lense in Spain where I live or in France (I'm French) but it is cheaper there and I don't really have the time to go bargain until I leave to SG on Friday

May 15, 2012

I've tried this too. So far my conclusion is: the Master is default to Group A, you can't change it. Keep in mind all groups are relative, I actually put group letter stickers on my 600 EX-RT to make it easier.

May 15, 2012

I have two 600EX and the ST E3 RT. I've experience various situations (10% of the time) where the radio transmission doesn't work or stopped in the middle of a shoot. I can't exactly replicated it yet, but in all cases the Connect Ready Light on the upper left corner are lit; which should indicate connections are online.

In all cases my batteries are freshly charged, and I don't do consecutive flashes and don't hear beeps. The Radio Transmission stops working sometimes when:

1. I switch from ETTL to Group mode, and setup up a mix of ETTL and Manual, and switch between difference modes even more (I like to experiment!)
2. When my flashes are in sleep mode, I press the shutter button half way to wake them up, then no slave flashes triggering anymore

I fix this by:

1. Sometimes turning the Master or Slave flash off then on again.
2. Or sometimes just unplug and plug the Master into the hot-shoe again.

Possible Cause:

I read the troubleshoot section throughly, and it indicates the slave may not be triggered when the Master is not FULLY plugged into the hot-shoe. So this is possible as replugging the Master does seems to fix it. However this is misleading as:

1. I always lock the hot-shoe, so it "should" be firmly connected.
2. It doesn't explain why sometimes turning the flash off and on again will fix it
3. The ready light is on, which should indicate connections are made
4. Master is fully functioning and flashing still

I'm wondering anyone out there having similar radio connection inconsistency issues.

Aaron

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