Lytro is Leaving the Consumer Camera Business

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It looks like Jason Rosenthal, the CEO of Lytro has decided to switch gears and focus the company on developing a light field virtual reality platform.</p>
<p>Jason Rosenthal writes on his blog:</p>
<blockquote>
<p id="a3fe" class="graf--p graf--hasDropCapModel graf--hasDropCap graf-after--figure"><span class="graf-dropCap">A </span>little over a year ago at Lytro, it became clear to me that we needed to drastically change the direction of our company. We’d already built two generations of consumer Light Field cameras and were deep into development on our third and fourth generation models. But I was increasingly filled with doubt about our product strategy and direction. Were consumer cameras really our biggest and best opportunity? If not, what should we be focused on instead? Could we pivot dramatically with so much invested in our current direction?</p>
<p id="d952" class="graf--p graf-after--p">I’d joined Lytro in early 2013 with the conviction that Light Field technology had the potential to be even more transformative to imaging than the transition from film to digital 15 years earlier. Lytro initially gained attention for the ability to refocus pictures after the fact but the implications of Light Field technology run far deeper. <a href="https://backchannel.com/war-stories-why-i-lit-up-lytro-b46124da32a6#.9ipjrq7tn" target="_blank">Read the full story</a></p>
</blockquote>
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Storing Pixma Pro-10 for a few months

I was recently given a Pixma Pro-10 for a birthday gift a week or so ago, and so far I am really enjoying it!

I do, however, live out of the country for several months at a time, and I've heard that these things can get clogged heads fairly easily.

Does anyone have any advice on how I should store the printer/ink tanks/head while I'm away to prevent this from happening?

Cheers.

Review - Canon EOS 80D

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Bryan at The-Digital-Picture has completed his review of the brand new Canon EOS 80D DSLR camera body. It’s definitely a camera that is an evolutionary upgrade over the 70D, and there may just be enough inside it to make it a worthwhile upgrade from the 70D. The EOS 80D could also be a great option for first time DSLR buyers.</p>
<p>From TDP</p>
<div>
<div>
<blockquote><p>The 10th model in the line, the 80D has history that dates back to the 3.25 mp D30 (yes, “D30” – the 30D came years later). Over these many years, Canon has continuously refined their design and added in a huge array of technological advancements. The result is a feature-packed, great-performing camera with a wide range of usefulness and a price tag that isn’t bad.</p>
<p>Whether you are a first-time DSLR buyer, you are interested in upgrading to a more feature-filled and capable camera, or if you are adding an additional camera to your kit, the Canon EOS 80D is very worthy of consideration. <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-80D.aspx" target="_blank">Read the full review</a></p></blockquote>
<p>The Canon EOS 80D is currently in stock at most authorized retailers.</p>
<p><strong>Canon EOS 80D</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Canon EOS 80D Body: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1225875-REG/canon_1263c004_eos_80d_dslr_camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo </a>| <a href="http://amzn.to/219QR6F" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA80D.html?KBID=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://bit.ly/1KrpP6K" target="_blank">Canon Store</a></li>
<li>Canon EOS 80D w/18-55 IS STM: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1225876-REG/canon_1263c005_eos_80d_dslr_camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://amzn.to/1U9mSKb" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA80DK.html?KBID=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://bit.ly/1Xz4hXD" target="_blank">Canon Store</a></li>
<li>Canon EOS 80D w/18-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1225878-REG/canon_1276c002_ef_s_18_135mm_f_3_5_5_6_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://amzn.to/1VoTfmz" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA80DKU.html?KBID=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://bit.ly/1KrpyRk" target="_blank">Canon Store</a></li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
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ShutterCount Now Available for iPhone & iPad

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<strong>From Dire Studios:</strong></p>
<p>My <a href="http://www.direstudio.com/shuttercount/" target="_blank">ShutterCount</a> app is now available on iOS!</p>
<p>It runs on 64-bit devices running iOS 9 or later (that is: iPhone 5s or later, iPod touch 6, iPad Air or later, iPad mini 2 or later, iPad Pro).</p>
<p>Since Apple does not provide a way to control a camera via USB from an iOS device, ShutterCount Mobile relies on Wi-Fi or Ethernet connection and thus supports cameras having one of those. Either built-in, or utilizing an external Wireless File Transmitter.</p>
<p>So at the moment it will work with the following Canon EOS cameras: 6D, 70D (using built-in Wi-Fi); 5D Mark III, 7D Mark II (using WFT-E7 transmitter); 1D X, 1D C (using built-in Ethernet or WFT-E6 transmitter).</p>
<p>Feature-wise it is equal with the Mac version – besides a simple reading it sports history logging, with the ability to copy the logs into Apple’s Numbers or Microsoft Excel. Plus you can access these logs through iTunes file sharing.</p>
<p>Because of the network connection required to the camera, you’ll need to do an extra step before the reading – pair the app and the camera. ShutterCount relies on the camera’s more advanced EOS Utility connection mode (and thus will not work with the simple smartphone connection mode). Mind this when establishing the connection.</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<p>I’ve recorded a short video showing the entire pairing and reading procedure between an iPod touch and my EOS 7D Mark II. The camera is connected through a Canon WFT-E7 transmitter using an Ethernet cable to our office network, while the iPod is connected to the same network via Wi-Fi.</p>
<p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w3y2ofcWVlM" width="728" height="409" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
<p>Towards the end of the video I make three test shots and power cycle the camera to show the updated shutter count. Note that the camera needs some time to register itself on the network, and that pairing needs to be done once – the next time the app will automatically recognize the camera.</p>
<p>This automatic connection remains in effect until you either pair the camera to another app (<a href="http://www.laszlopusztai.net/tag/kuuvik-capture/">Kuuvik Capture</a> for example), turn off the network connection on the camera, or quit (I mean force quit, pressing the Home button is not enough) the app on the iPhone/iPad.</p>
<p>You may want to read <a href="http://www.laszlopusztai.net/2016/02/25/kuuvik-capture-2-2-released-with-wi-fi-support/">my previous post</a> on Canon EOS camera pairing and the<a href="http://www.direstudio.com/shuttercount/faq/#q12" target="_blank">ShutterCount FAQ</a> for additional pairing tips.</p>
<p>ShutterCount Mobile is <a href="http://www.direstudio.com/download/shuttercount-mobile" target="_blank">available on the App Store</a> for $2.99 / €2.99.</p>
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Tamron 85mm VC

Got this new lens in the mail this evening. I had a chance to take all of a couple dozen frames, but some first impressions:
- It's neither large nor small, but it's lighter than I expected for its size. I guess I'm used to Sigma packing glass into every crevice. It makes it handle very easily, and even well with the SL1.
- It appears to be as sharp as I'd hoped. I can't wait for daylight to really test whether that crazy MTF chart is based in reality. From the pictures I took tonight, it seems it might be.
- I was specifically looking for color aberration in the corners, as that is the weakness of the 35mm little brother. I was able to cause CA, but only when I really went out of my way to do so, with bits of metal shining, etc. It is really quite decently controlled in these first examples, all correctable. Significantly better than the 35mm, at least in my small sample.

In the Future, We Will Photograph Everything and Look at Nothing

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When Google bought Nik Software in 2012, I think a lot of knew it was the beginning of the end for the beloved software. I am still a bit ticked off at Google for basically killing it with no new versions and now giving it away for free. Since there is no hidpi version of the software, I can no longer use it on my Windows laptop, and there will never be an update to correct that issue. Rest well Nik Collection, I’m going to miss you.</p>
<p>Below is a great article from The New Yorker on the topic.</p>
<p><strong>From The New Yorker</strong></p>
<blockquote>
<p class="descender" data-wc="61">Today everything exists to end in a photograph,” Susan Sontag wrote in her seminal 1977 book “On Photography.” This was something I thought about when <a href="http://www.theverge.com/2016/3/25/11303094/nik-collection-free-google-photo-plug-ins" target="_blank" data-smart-underline-link-background-position="69" data-smart-underline-link-color="rgb(0, 0, 0)" data-smart-underline-link-always="">I recently read</a> that Google was making its one-hundred-and-forty-nine-dollar photo-editing suite, the Google Nik Collection, free. This photo-editing software is as beloved among photographers as, say, Katz’s Deli is among those who dream of pastrami sandwiches.</p>
<p data-wc="117">Before Google bought it, in 2012, the collection cost five hundred dollars. It is made up of seven pieces of specialized software that, when used in combination with other photo-editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Lightroom, give photographers a level of control akin to that once found in the darkroom. They can mimic old film stock, add analog photo effects, or turn color shots into black-and-white photos. The suite can transform modestly good photos into magical ones. Collectively, Nik’s intellectual sophistication is that of a chess grand master. I don’t mind paying for the software, and neither do thousands of photographers and enthusiasts. So, like many, I wondered, why would Google make it free? <a href="http://www.newyorker.com/business/currency/in-the-future-we-will-photograph-everything-and-look-at-nothing" target="_blank">Read the full article</a></p>
</blockquote>
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Selling my 7Dmk2 for the 1Dx

Hi everyone,

I am the lucky owner of a 5D3 and a 7D2. I bought the 7D2 last year as most of the time I do wildlife photography. The 5D3 replaced 2 years ago my 7D. I have never been very happy with the results of my 7D2 and the Sigma 150-600 Sport lens. Because of that, during my trip to Namibia last year I even used the 150-600 on the 5D3 and my 70-200 f2,8 on the 7D2. When I am not shooting wildlife I use the 5D3 all the time.

In Europe nowadays, I can afford buying the 1Dx as its price has decreased.

I am afraid to loose the crop factor of the 7D2 because here in Belgium getting close to wildlife is a challenge. I am also afraid to invest so much money on a camera. But I know that i would not be disappointed by the IQ.
Maybe I should wait for the 5D4 that will certainly come close to the 1Dx in terms of IQ and offer a small bump in burst performance.

What are your opinions and thoughts? Anyone has used the 1Dx with the Sigma 150-600S ??

Thanks

Vincent

What is everyone's experiences on graduated ND filters?

I am looking into purchasing some graduated ND filters and it seems like there is quite a variety out there with significant cost differences. I've read about the color changes etc. I wanted to see if there was anyone actually using the various filters that may give their experience. I would be most commonly using them for sunrise/sets or water scenes. I suspect most commonly on my Canon 16-35mm F2.8L II or 24-70mm F2.8L II.

These both have 82 mm filter sizes, so do you need another bracket to go to 77mm?
What filter stop difference is most commonly used 3? 6? 10?
Any other words of wisdom?

Thank you!

Canon 24-70 f/2.8 II Lens Hood Falls Off?

I've owned the ever popular 24-105 f/4L IS Lens since early 2010. It has seen it all. (Literally! LOL.) After 6 years of good service, it still works like new. No creep, etc.

The 24-105 Lens Hood (Bayonet style), if anything, is TIGHTER than when it was new. That hood has endured a lot of abuse to protect the lens. It has never fallen off. Sometimes it can be a pain to get it lined up when I flip it around to reattach it to put it back in the lens bag. But I can always rely on it to stay attached like it's glued on.

I was excited when I received the new 24-70 f/2.8 II with the button lock hood and easier/smoother attachment. (Since I have had great luck with the 70-200 f/2.8 II hood which is similar.)

Unfortunately, the 24-70 f/2.8 II button lock lens hood falls off easily. It's too loose and when hanging at my hip, it has fallen off numerous times and no, my hip is not hitting the button, it is always positioned to the outside.

Anyone else have this problem? The hood doesn't look broken, cracked or otherwise compromised. It just doesn't stay attached as well as the 70-200 hood. Why?? I think it might flex a bit easier but I'm not sure.


Thoughts?

Hyperfocal Lens Geeks - ASSEMBLE!

Hey guys, I've a Q about hyperfocal distancing that is frying my brain a little.

I shoot my evening shots flash assisted. Using the 16-35mm lens I set the aperture to F8, adjust the ISO and flash power to suit and set the lens manually at 1.5m. Simple stuf.

Generally everything is in focus front and back for dance floor shots. Which suits me fine. However, I would like a longer focal length with the same functionality.

Is there a difference between how wide a lens is and its hyperfocal distance? For example, is a 135L lens different from a 35-300mm lens at 135mm?

I'd like more reach around the 50-85mm mark and sometimes it's a little too dark for my 85mm to acquire focus. The other way is to stop the aperture down further but that taxes the flashes more.

Thanks!

CPS late returns

I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with how CPS in the U.S. handles slightly late returns of trial equipment. The trial period is very brief and since it includes shipping time, it can be hard to evaluate a piece of equipment and meet Canon's deadline for returns. Has anyone had experience with not getting a lens or camera body back to Canon on time and what were the consequences?

Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Coming Early?

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We’re told by someone that they’ve been informed by B&H Photo that the first shipments of the EOS-1D X Mark II camera bodies were received by the retailer on April 1, 2016. The customer spoke with a rep at B&H Photo and they were told that some of the preorders will be met with the initial shipment of cameras. To further the good news, the customer’s credit card has been charged for the camera and they’ll likely receive a shipping notice today or tomorrow.</p>
<p>We do not know how many cameras B&H Photo has received.</p>
<p>If any other retailer has received the camera, please let us know.</p>
<p><strong>Preorder the Canon EOS-1D X Mark II</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Canon EOS-1D X Mark II Premium Kit $5999 (Reg $6299): <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1221604-REG/canon_0931c016_eos_1d_x_mark_ii.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60085/51926/1036?u=www.adorama.com/ICA1DXM2KP.html" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://amzn.to/1m9GcsS" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a href="http://bit.ly/23Mjw42" target="_blank">Canon Store</a></li>
<li>Canon WFT-E8A $599: <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1221610-REG/canon_1173c001_wft_e7a_wireless_file_transmitter.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">B&H Photo</a> | <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICAWFTE8A.html?KWID=64393" target="_blank">Adorama</a> | <a href="http://amzn.to/1POf7D2" target="_blank">Amazon</a> | <a href="http://bit.ly/23MjDMI" target="_blank">Canon Store</a></li>
</ul>
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Anyone have two bodies & have them have a different shutter sound?

So a few months ago I had a problem with my 5D3's having different shutter sounds after sending it in got a shutter repair once, so I sent it in again and they fixed it but didn't tell me what the cause of the problem was.


So now after taking advantage of the incredible price decrease on the 1DX with the MK2 coming out I went ahead and purchased a new one & noticed the shutter sounded completely different to the one I already owned since October, it's... best described as less clicky? and more of a deeper sound, I've tried shooting off a few bursts at 12fps to see if it's affecting anything and so far 9/10 tries have been that it would take 31 pictures and the newer one would take 32-33.

Does anyone else have this problem & should I send it in to cps or just ignore & and accept it's because it's a older camera with close to 45k shutter shots?

The Follow-Up to the EOS 5D Mark III Will be Called...... [CR2]

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<p>We’re told by a couple of people that they’re 100% sure the follow-up to the EOS 5D Mark III will be called the “EOS 5D Mark IV” and not the reported “EOS 5D X” moniker. Unfortunately, there is no other information available at this time about the EOS 5D Mark IV, which tells us there is no imminent announcement for NAB.</p>
<p>We’re still placing our bets on this camera being announced in August and showcased at Photokina in Cologne, Germany in September, 2016.</p>
<p>More to come…</p>
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15-85 Equivalent on Full Frame

Hi All,

I am currently a 7D owner and am going to upgrade to FF this year. Probably to a 5D 4 when it comes out, if the specs / price work for me.

I currently use a efs 15-85 as my general purpose lens and absolutely love it. I am struggling to find something equivalent.

My 15-85 gets treated poorly and would like to be able to do similar with the new lens. I would also like to be able to take just one lens on holidays with me, so a bit of extra reach would be great.

I would like it to have IS and be at least moderately weather sealed and be under 1500 AUD.

I have considered:

Canon 24-105 - I hear mixed reviews, is it too old in the tooth and will be crappy on a modern FF camera?
Canon 24-70 f4 IS - I hear it has some sort of optical issue, that I could understand
Sigma 24-105 - I hear better iq than the canon but no weather sealing
Tamron 24-70 - generally well reviewed, af issues? Probably my current front runner, even if it tops out at 70.

I had considered the canon 16-35 f4 as I plan to get a copy one day for landscapes but thought it would be too short as a general lens and would have to bring my 70-300 L on every holiday.

If it helps my other lenses are:
Tamron sp 35
Canon 50 L
Canon 100 L macro
Canon 70-300 L
A bunch of smc takuma adapted lenses.

The reason I ask now is I am going on a holiday in a couple of weeks so I could get the lens in advance of the camera tax free.

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Has anyone else gone through the same thing? What did you choose and are you happy?

Cheers

Petja

Upgrading from 5DIII to 5DIV -- your probable reasons?

So curious as to which reasonably probably improvements would motivate you to upgrade?
I don't want to read "zero noise at ISO 64,000" or "eye focus" like my A2e film bodies or ...
With three "C" modes, I can utilize so many of the 5DIII features with a minimum of diddling -- so I feel that my upgrade from 70D to 5DIII would be a good investment at today's prices. I already have FF glass.
Waiting for some Holy Grail costing over $3,500 for the 1st two years seems senseless.
Your thoughts?

yet a crop vs. full frame question (500mm f4 + 7d) vs. (500mm f4 + 1.4x + 1dx)

Sorry for it, but I have question that may again raise the crop vs. full frame discussion.


I own a 500mm f4ii and I am wandering which would be the best setup if I need additional reach among the two options, crop vs. full frame:


CF: attaching to the lens a 7dii
FF: attaching to the lens a 2xiii and a 1dxii (a setup equivalent to a 700 f5.6 lens)


I know that the full frame option gives a setup equivalent to a 700mm f5.6 lens on a 20mp sensor, while the crop option will give a setup equivalent to an 800mm f6.4 lens on a 20mp sensor (somewhat different).


Apart from the difference in the equivalent focal distance and aperture, is there any major advantage of one setup vs. the other?


The question is not theoretical for me. I will later this year buy a 1dxii, and I was thinking to buy also a 7dii to be almost permanently attached to the 500mmf4ii, except from when I need less reach, when I would use the 1dxii.


Thank you very much for your recommendations!

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