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Canon EF 11-24 f/2.8L Coming [CR1]

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<p><strong>*UPDATE*

</strong><em>This lens is now being reported as an f/4</em></p>
<p>We’ve been told that a Canon EF 11-24 f/2.8L lens will be coming, although we weren’t told when. Pricing for the new lens will be around $2800 USD.</p>
<p>The same source says to expect price drops on select Canon L lenses around September 1, 2014.</p>
<p>More to come…</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

6D+7Dii Vs 5D mkiii

My 500D, noble beast that she is, needs to be retired.

Her AF isn't sufficient when trying to catch quicker birds in flight and when it comes to low light photography, anything over ISO 800 affects image quality.

So I decided, that I wanted two cameras to replace her and set my sights on the 6D for the full frame goodness and 7Dii (yes, I know it's not out yet :D) for frames per second, AF system and so on.

But a friend is now messing with my mind. His advise? Get the 5Diii instead.

His contention is that the 5Diii will give me more bells and whistles than the 6D offers and provides sufficient resolution that would allow me to crop an image to equal the 1.6 "zoom" of a crop body.

But I'm not so sure that cropping an image shot at 400mm (FF) would give me the "fill" of a 640mm (APS-C) without negatively affecting image quality.

What would you guys do? If the 7Dii isn't announced this year, I may go for the 70D instead.

I'm really in need of some convincing that the full frame can replace a crop body.

Thanks in advance :)

Canon 70-200 f4 IS vs Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC

Hi,
I have the opportunity to sell my Canon 70-200 f4 IS L at a fair price. I was thinking about selling it and buy a new Tamron 70-200 f2.8 VC.

I know the Tamron is bigger and quite heavier, but that wouldn't be a problem. My doubts are:

1) Image quality: I don't think the Tamron is as good as the Canon
2) Colors: I don't know about the 70-200, but I have a Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC and though it's very sharp and has a great stabilizer, it has bland colors. I also have a Canon 16-35 f2.8 L and the colors, compared to the Tamron 24-70, are immensely better, richer, brighter.

Any advice? Thanks!

Which Lens to Take

Hi All
I am new to the forum i just wanted to pick a few brains about what lens would be best to take with me on my Himalayan trek at the end of the year.Here is a list of the gear i have.Canon 5dmk11 and 5D mk111,Canon 17-40 l lens,Canon 24-105 l lens,Canon 70-200 is mk11 lens and my nifty 50 canon 1.8.At the moment i am thinking the 24-105 to take but i am willing to invest in a new lens i have been thinking about Canon 24-70mk11 or the Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD.Obviously weight is the key thing so thats why i am limiting myself to one lens for trip.Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated.

Happy Shooting
Neil

Canon 85 1.8 to replace 50 1.4?

Hello everyone!

Ever since getting my Canon 35mm f2 IS and 100mmL IS I have found my Sigma 50mm 1.4 classic not getting much use. On my 6D I prefer the 35mm FL over the 50 and just generally love everything about the 35 IS.

I like my lenses to have specific uses and it is meant to be:

35mm f2 IS: Walk around/general use
50mm f1.4: Portraits (I generally prefer half to full body and don't do portraits a great deal)
100mm: Macro, Products and the occasional portrait (which it does an amazing job at).

The reason I consider the Canon 85mm 1.8 is purely because of the price. If I sell the Sigma, there isn't much of a price difference I have to put in and I don't have the budget to spend any more. If budget wasn't an issue, I would be selling the 50 for the 135mm f2L.

How does the 85 1.8 compare to the Sigma 50 in terms of sharpness and bokeh? I've seen some amazing stuff with the 85 1.8 and considering the longer FL, I would probably be able to get a shallower DOF when doing half to full body portraits.

Yongnuo YN-E3-RT misaligned focus assist problem.

YN-E3-RT misaligned focus assist problem.

I know everyone has been irritated about the misaligned focus assist beam, if the 1 you got is slightly pointing upward, then I would like to emphasize, your device is not faulty. Because that is what everyone is having, and I believe there is none YN-E3-RT corresponded to the focus points of your camera, never exist. You are not alone with these issues it’s not an isolated issue.

Light travel in straight line and the beam is always few inches above the centre point of your lens, is always parallel to the lens, and that is why it is pointing slightly upward. We are talking about laser beam here. And that is a simple physic knowledge, 2 parallel lines will never meet.

They are making right decision for not fixing the beam to certain focus distance, because it will cause more problem as the beam would not be straight anymore.
Canon & Nikon use few laser beams to solve this problem in the flash gun, and their beams are more powerful, if Yongnuo apply few beams on the trigger, the size of the device will be huge and need more battery to operate as more power is needed. The canon’s beam is very strong, and it causes discomfort to the model sometimes.

YongNuo includes the laser in the device to fully utilize the space of the device & the battery power, that was really a nice job.
Just use 1/3 of the focus point above, and the problem fixed. As an event photographer, I shoot in clubs & pubs, this device never fail me. Laser travel in straight line, always remember that and use the upper part of the focus points. But if you are using cropped censor camera, then you will struggle a lot, and potentially, you wouldn’t be able to use the focus assist beam

There is no problem with the quality control of YongNuo. Please understand the physic
But Yongnuo is making a HUGE mistake by not telling everyone upfront that the laser is likely to point slightly upwards and only 1/3 of the focus points are useable. If YongNuo been frank enough, they will make more sales, as people lost their confident.

A big store just told me they are not planning to sell this trigger as there is a potential that a lot of customer will think there is a faulty with the device and ask for refund.
Canon told us 2nd curtain cant be used, and we all accept that. Yongnuo should tell us upfront by saying only 1/3 of the focus point can be used when using focus assist beam
There is nothing wrong with the device, I love it and left my original canon STE3RT collecting dust at home.

Lens security

Does anyone know of any type of security devise to secure a lens to prevent it from being removed. I just purchased a 16-35 F2.8 and only had it 2 weeks when someone distracted me ans a second person removed it from the camera body. I was in Russia and knew pic pockets were a problem. I did not think it possible to remove the lens without me knowing it, while I had it in my hand.

Cold shoe recommendation for 600EX-RT

I'm finding it difficult to reliably attach my 600EX-RT's to generic cold shoes (e.g. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/743061-REG/Vello_CS_Universal_Accessory_Shoe_Mount.html/prm/alsVwDtl), and last week I had a flash slip off and hit the floor after I though it was tight. No damage, amazingly, but very worrying since these flashes aren't cheap!

Has anyone found a cold shoe that works well with Canon's quick-release mounts on the 600EX and 430EX-II? I didn't have this much trouble with my old 580EX and 430EX with the screw plates.

Thanks.

More on Hollywood Filmmaker's Albuquerque Landscapes

Last month I posted a short video on a retired Hollywood filmmaker's HDR panoramas of Albuquerque. However, the video only touched on his finished results. This link will take you to his site and some of his work:

http://www.unit16.net/Adobe%20Web%20Gallery/content/index.html

After viewing his work, you will understand why I picked ABQ as my retirement home. Our Fall is usually spectacular, and the winter and spring scenes can be quite good as well. If you like thunderstorms, July and August can produce some intense weather formations and plenty of lightning!

PocketWizard MiniTT1 & FlexTT5 Now Compatible With More Canon Cameras

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<p>PocketWizard has added more TTL support for the Canon camera lineup when using the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605715-REG/PocketWizard_801_143_MiniTT1_Radio_Slave_Transmitter.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">MiniTT1</a> and <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605720-REG/PocketWizard_801_150_FlexTT5_Transceiver_Radio_Slave.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">FlexTT5</a> radios.</p>
The PocketWizard Utility also enables you to configure your settings in the ControlTL firmware found on the MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 radios.</p>
<p>August 5, 2014: Full compatibility for the Canon 1D X*, 6D*, 70D, T5i / 700D, T4i* / 650D, T5 / 1200D and SL1 / 100D.  <em>* Now with TTL compatibility</em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.pocketwizard.com/support/downloads/" target="_blank">Download the firmware</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605715-REG/PocketWizard_801_143_MiniTT1_Radio_Slave_Transmitter.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">PocketWizard MiniTT1</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605720-REG/PocketWizard_801_150_FlexTT5_Transceiver_Radio_Slave.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">PocketWizard FlexTT5</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon Doing Market Research on Medium Format?

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<p><a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon_medium_format_2ff.html" target="_blank">A new report</a> suggests Canon is sending out questionnaires to “key users” which includes some questions about medium format. Most of the questions were gear towards <span style="color: #000000;">image quality, usage scenarios and lens requirements. Most of the questionnaire was still about DSLRs and video, and that the “MF stuff was new”.</span></p>
<p>Rumors are running rampant that Nikon will launch a medium format body using the 50mp sensor that everyone else is using, and we’ve heard the same about Sony entering the field. Canon has been looking at the feasibility for years, and have said they want to enter more “professional” markets due to the declining consumer market.</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon_medium_format_2ff.html" target="_blank">NL</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Anyone Doing 3D Scanning?

Being a core member of the local hackerspace (Danbury Innovation Center), it was inevitable I'd end up dealing with 3D scanning. I got tired of the MakerBot Digitizer sitting there, next to one of the 3D printers, and I decided to take it upon myself to get to know it.

I sat down with it last night, prepared for a marathon of adjustments and 'did everything right' -- that is, I set myself up the same way as I did for FoCal with proper lighting, making sure the surface was solid etc. I only had one hitch in the setup and that was that it wasn't meant to be done in an optimized environment.

The halogens I was using were far too bright for the 'eye safe' lasers used (because apparently everyone tries to stick their face in the thing).

Having now read 99% of their website, the manual etc. the list of limitations are as long as my arm (not too big, not too small, not too dark, not too furry, not too much detail, not too shiny etc.).

For an $800 rig, they're calling it 'for early adopters', beta testers, etc. Glad it wasn't my money ;D

So, has anyone else done anything with 3D scanning? Seems like it should just be an offshoot of macro, no?

here we come, 6d AF problems

I want to hear some feedback on AF issues with 6d.

The problem with mine is that it sometimes can't focus (I use 99,9% the central cross point).

I never thought about it like as if it was a problem until last weekend when I mounted my 35mm 1.4L on my friend's 5dm3


I WAS SO SHOCKED. Okay, it can focus perfectly, but hell why it's 10000 times sharper?

I'm considering to sell my 6d in prior to buy 5dm3 this summer and want to know if it's usual and normal to have the AF issue.

LensRentals.com Tests, and Then Takes Apart the Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS

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<p><a href="http://www.lensrentals.com" target="_blank">LensRentals.com</a> has put the new <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051475-USA/canon_9518b002_ef_16_35mm_f_4l_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS</a> through IMATEST against Canon’s other wide angle zoom lenses. As expected, it has come out on top when compared to the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/279582-USA/Canon_8806A002_EF_17_40mm_f_4L_USM.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 17-40 f/4L</a>  and the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/486708-USA/Canon_1910B002AA_EF_16_35mm_f_2_8L_II.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 16-35 f/2.8L II</a>.</p>
<p><em>“I set a high bar for new Canon lenses. I expect them to be excellent and generally their recent releases have been. Since this was a wide-angle zoom, though, my expectations were lowered a bit. Canon has always struggled with wide-angle zooms. The 17-40 is a good, not great lens. The 16-35 f/2.8 II is better than the Mk I replaced, but I’d consider it, at best, adequate considering its price.</em></p>
<p style="color: #4a4a4a;"><em>The 16-35 f/4 IS changes that. It’s a superb optic — as good as anything else available. Of course, a lot of people want an f/2.8 zoom. But for many, like me, f/4 with IS is just fine for wide-angle shooting.”</em></p>
<p style="color: #4a4a4a;">Once they were done reviewing the EF 16-35 f/4L IS, they decided to take one apart. The LensRentals.com teardowns are a lot of fun, but also give us an idea of how durable the lens is going to be in real world use.</p>
<p style="color: #4a4a4a;"><em>“Now that I’ve seen the insides I’m very optimistic that this lens will be less likely to deteriorate optically over time, and will be more easily corrected when it does. We won’t know for sure until we’ve got a year’s experience with it, of course, but from a design and assembly standpoint it looks really, really good.”</em></p>
<p style="color: #4a4a4a;"><strong><a href="http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/07/canon-wide-angle-zoom-comparison" target="_blank">Read the review</a> | <a href="http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/07/of-course-we-took-one-apart" target="_blank">Read the teardown</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051475-USA/canon_9518b002_ef_16_35mm_f_4l_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p style="color: #4a4a4a;"><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Problems with my new IDX a new Canon user not happy

Hi I live in Victoria Australia and purchased a Canon 1DX but all is not well, the camera shuts down telling me to recharge the battery but the battery that came with the camera is fully charged, I went back to the supplier of the camera and he sold me another battery to see if the problem is the one that came with the camera from canon, I charged the new battery and installed it in my new !DX, but the problem exists I believe in the camera being faulty, I have been using Fuji cameras for the past few years without any issues and traded my Fuji sd20 as a deposit payment for my new canon, I took the camera back to the place of purchase here in Melbourne and they said it must be returned to canon for repairs, so I looked across the web for more of the same problems as I have got with mine, to my surprise I came across a professional in new south wales that took canon to court over his new 1DX and lost the court case. is this what's happen when you get a lemon, also when formatting a new SanDisk card it now does not work even in my PC . what would you do.
the link below is from the NSW court case that canon refused to fix.
Canon warranty dispute leads to claims of fraud
http://www.photocounter.com.au/2013/canon-warranty-dispute-leads-to-claims-of-fraud/

Lens setup for wedding photography

Hi,

I will attend to a wedding ceremony on the next weekend. However I'm an unofficial photographer I would like to use the right gear to optimize my work. I have the 700D body and the following equipment.

  • EF-S 10-22
  • EF 50 f/1.8
  • EF 70-200 f/2.8L
  • EF-S 18-55 IS STM
  • EF 100L macro
  • Speedlite 430 II

Considering I would like to spare weight, what combination would you use?

Thanks for advice

Remote Shutter not firing on Rokinon 14mm 2.8

Hello,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a 6D and bought a Rokinon 14mm 2.8 lens for shooting the milky way. Unfortunately, neither of my 2 remotes work and I was hoping one of the knowledgeable folks on this forum could help me. I've searched and found people have recommended adjusting the custom function for "release shutter without lens" - however I can't find that menu option on the 6D.

Here's what happens when I try my remotes:
- the wired remote does nothing (Zeikos brand). Press and hold it, and nada.
- the wireless remote (Pearstone Freewave brand) will immediately release the shutter as soon as I plug the receiver into the 6D. Hitting the remote does nothing, and the only way to close the shutter is to unplug the wireless cord going into the 6D remote terminal.

These issues occur regardless of what mode I'm in - M, Av, etc. I'm able to fire the camera normally using the button on camera, but want to reduce any camera shake with the remote.

Has anyone come across this, or know how to fix/resolve it so that I can get back to using my trusty remotes?


Thanks for your help in advance!

7DII - where are the leaks ??

Everyone is convinced that the 7DII will be announced next month.
And yet, there hasn't been a single leak so far - just wishlists and conjectures.

As per this rumor from December 2011, the 7DII was supposed to be one of the big items at Photokina 2012.
We know how that turned out 8) .

If history is any indication, no leaks - no announcement.
So, where are the leaks ??

Airshow Photography - Big Whites vs Small Whites...

Over the past few years I have shot a handful of airshows, first with the t2i and a 70-200 + 1.4x (blue angels below), then a few with the 7D + 100 -400 and even with a 6D + 100 - 400 (thunderbirds below). For the upcoming Chicago Air and Water show I have been thinking whether there are any equipment upgrades I can make to increase the quality of my images. The 100-400 is by and large THE airshow companion for good reason, its reasonably priced, flexible (wight and zoom), and has IS. I have been considering picking up a 400 5.6 for some time now to see whether I like it better than the 100 - 400 or not; though the IS in the 100-400 is key for panning shots. However, today I got the idea to maybe rent a 300 2.8 IS II with a 1.4x or 2x. I am not normally a fan of renting; I'd rather take the money and spend it on something I can keep..but that's neither here nor there.

Obviously shooting airshows can be hit or miss due to perspective, lighting, weather, and atmospheric conditions..luck...

So the question is what are the advantages of using say a 300 2.8 + 1.4x or 400 2.8 over a 400 5.6 or 100-400 to shoot an airshow? Obviously DoF isn't an issue since you are shooting near infinity, though the lower f/ will allow you to use a higher shutter speed and/or lower ISO. The real difference is probably in the sharpness; so the question is to anyone who has used a lens from both categories, is the IQ gain really worth the hassle of renting/twice the weight? I know for birding the IQ gain is very noticeable, but for airplanes?


Thanks in advance.

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Canon Image Gateway Down Can't use Wi-Fi

I finally got the Wi-Fi up and working on my G1X after the delivery of a new Wi-Fi access point on Saturday. Then the power went out until midnight Sunday.

Now, I can't use it to transfer images to my computer wirelessly. The Canon image Gateway returns this message.

This site is currently not available due to maintenance.

Whoever is responsible for setting up a system that requires a unreliable site to be up and running in order to use Wi-Fi on a camera should be fired.

I like my G1X, but surely other cameras have Wi-Fi that is not set up by someone without a clue >:(

Speedlite zoom setting in flash modifiers and camera ISO (with test results!)

Hello dear fellows,

In the last few months, I've been eager to start artificial lighting more seriously and I've been looking around for general knowledge on how to light my subjects correctly. Now, I think the cosmetic part of lighting I can deal with. However, now that I've acquired a pair of light stands and flash modifiers for my speedlites (nothing fancy really, just a pair of small 33'' umbrellas and two brolly boxes, 1 is 33'' and the other 40'') I'm a bit underwhelmed by the light intensity I'm able to achieve. Admittedly, I was expecting those modifiers to be a bit big for a single speedlite. Yet, the 33'' brolly needs to be at about 1m max to have somewhat decent exposure and this seems close to my untrained eye, not much room for composition if I want to avoid seeing the box in the image.

I've mainly tried to shoot in a dark room (light colored walls so stray light is bouncing all over) at ISO 100 and apertures from 2.8 and up. The flash unit is a Sigma EF610DG Super. Supposed to output GN61m at 105mm zoom, but I've mostly tried with the head at the 24mm setting to reduce the hotspot in the brolly. Now my questions are, as the title says:

1 - What zoom setting is best to maximize brightness in a light diffuser?
2 - Is it reasonable to shoot ISO 100 for a single off-camera speedlite?

I've tried some guesswork in playing with the various settings at hand, but since I've not been systematic enough, I did not come to any valid conclusions. Researching the web on those topics also provided me with all and the opposite as an answer. Possibly this post by Neuro was the most helpful I've found, but I'm not sure how this relates to big modifiers (http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=18529.msg346022#msg346022 ). Therefore, I'd be interested in hearing how people around here set-up.

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