Threads

Jesse · Dec 6, 2013

Anyone remember the price for the IS primes (24, 28, 35) earlier this year when they were on sale? Thinking about buying the 35 (mostly for video) soon and wondering if there's a chance of it having a good price for the holidays.

LearningCameras · Dec 6, 2013

So just because I have a 5d3 doesn't mean I always want to use it. Sometimes the size and risk of carrying $4000 on your neck is just not worth it. Many people also can't afford an expensive full frame body. But that doesn't mean you can't get great images. So I took a $4,000 5d3 setup and my $400 eos M setup to take some pictures of $400,000 cars. I also have the original RAW files available for you to download and compare yourself.
Canon EOS M VS 5D Mark III - Can a $400 camera stand up to the $4000 champ?
http://learningcameras.com/reviews/4-dslrs/193-canon-eos-m-vs-5d-mark-iii

Canon Rumors · Dec 6, 2013

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<p><strong>From B&H Photo

</strong>B&H Photo has posted a nice article about the coming of the original Canon EOS 5D camera body. At the time, it was the first full frame camera that was “affordable”.</p>
<p><strong>A snippet from the article

</strong><em>“Most photographers in the mid 2000′s had developed their eye using 35mm film cameras. When they attached a 50mm lens and looked through the viewfinder, they expected to see a 50mm focal range. However, nearly all the DSLR cameras available at the time were using APS-C-sized sensors, which introduce a significant amount of crop factor. The classic nifty fifty is cropped to 80mm. This compromise threw many people off, and proved to be a persistent nuisance.”</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p>The original Canon EOS 5D was the first full frame camera I ever used. I borrowed it a lot from the photo store I worked at, I just couldn’t go back to my EOS 40D, which was a great camera in its own right. I didn’t actually own a full frame camera until late into the life of the 5D Mark II, as I was using APS-H for a long time with the 1D3 and 1D4.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/insights/blogs/photography/history-canon-5d-it-arrived-2005.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Read the full article</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon Rumors · Dec 6, 2013

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<strong>Super telephoto patent</strong>
A new Canon patent showing other lens formulas using a built-in 1.4x teleconverter. Two of the primary lenses are an EF 300-600 f/5.6L IS 1.4x and a 600 f/4L IS with a built in TC.</p>
<p>The same patent also shows the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/973129-REG/canon_5176b002_ef_200_400mm_f_4l_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x TC</a>. Perhaps Canon sees value in this setup for longer lenses? Here’s hoping so.</p>
<p><strong>Example 2</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Focal length f = 585.10mm</li>
<li>Fno. 4.12</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 2.12 °</li>
<li>Image height Y = 21.64mm</li>
<li>The overall length of the lens 467.32mm</li>
<li>BF 83.15mm</li>
<li>Teleconference insertion</li>
<li>Focal length f = 819.00mm</li>
<li>Fno. 5.77</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 1.51 °</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Example 3</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Zoom ratio 1.90</li>
<li>Focal length f = 307.50 – 585.00mm</li>
<li>Fno. 5.88</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 4.02 – 2.12 °</li>
<li>Image height Y = 21.64mm</li>
<li>The overall length of the lens 405.00mm</li>
<li>BF 75.70mm</li>
<li>Teleconference insertion</li>
<li>Focal length f = 427.00 – 812.33mm</li>
<li>Fno. 8.17</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 2.90 – 1.53 °</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-12-06" target="_blank">EG</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

KKCFamilyman · Dec 6, 2013

I just got the sony alpha 7 with kit lens. I was hoping to replace my wife's nex 6 with this since it will hold her 16-50 collapsable zoom and be a FF travel camera for me. Not the case so far.

Cons:
Iq worse with apsc e mount lenses
Auto-mode wife would use starts the shutter usually 2/focal length.
Phase detect is poor or does not come on during low light.
The two main dials sit in front and back of shutter release making this camera akward to hold.
The grip is tall but way too shallow.
Lack of speedlites and lens choices
Finally the awb and standard picture style make the reds look orange.

Sooooo I grabbed my 5d and all I can say is ergonimics and good glass make the weight and size worth it. Like anything other manufacturers will follow but this needs time to evolve. Now I see the light on Canon's choice for the Sl1 and 6d since they are smaller and lighter but are more functional. I do own a sony nex 6 but again the lens selection is low and as said many times on this forum good Glass is important than just a sensor alone. Just my 2 cents.

jrista · Dec 5, 2013

Samyang 10mm f/2.8 Manual Focus Wide Angle Prime

This looks pretty impressive. Samyang has made excellent wide angle primes for a while, but this is the first time I've seen one with a nano crystaline coating on an internal lens element. Canon and Nikon have been using nanocrystal coatings on internal elements for a while, and it has a truly amazing impact on reducing flare (total transmission loss is in the range of 0.1%, vs. often more than 1% for basic multicoating.

For rectilinear wide field astrophotography, this lens could be a true dream come true...not to mention the applications for high quality ultrawide landscape photography (especially on full frame!)

Curious to see how corner performance is. If it is anything like the 14mm and 24mm Samyang lenses, it should be phenomenal...but 10mm is pretty darn wide...

Standard · Dec 5, 2013

I know this may be very simple to many of you using the 5D Mark III but I can't seem to figure it out so your help is greatly appreciated. I've spent a good few hours flipping through the manual and scouring Websites but can't seem to find anything.

I find myself at a lost today trying to take some architectural/environmental shots with the Mark III and the Samyang 14mm. Try as I might, I can't get the camera to take the shot. Pushing the shutter button does nothing. I have gone through the Live View menu and tried adjusting the various settings but they haven't helped. I have the camera on a tripod using Live View, ISO at 100, aperture at f/16 and is using both manual focus magnification along with hyper focal techniques. Normally, this is a non-issue with my 5D Mark II which I have been using exclusively for landscape/environmental photography up until today.

What I believe the problem maybe is that the camera is trying to focus with AF rather than letting me manually focus BUT since the Samyang 14mm lens is a fully manual lens and do not have a manual switch, I can't change to that to let the camera know that I want to focus manually.

What am I doing wrong? Do I need to activate mirror lockup (I'd assume that Live View is a better option since it reduces/eliminates vibration)? How do I go about setting the camera to manual focus?

Any help in shedding light to this is greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I've just tried this with the Canon 24L and was able to take shots. This helps confirm that the issue lies with setting the lens to AF/manual but how does one goes about using manual lenses that do not have AF/manual switches with the Mark III?

toodamnice · Dec 5, 2013

What does that mean??? How can I tell if it's gray market? It's a split kit and it is new looking. I am worried that Canon won't fix it if something happens. It was hard to pass on $1400 for such a great camera and I'd hate to send it back. Thanks for your advice...

cheeseheadsaint · Dec 5, 2013

With the 6d on its way, I definitely want to try using video. I know the 6D is not the best option for shooting sports video -but that's ok. Mainly I will use the 6D for sports stills. But I still want to make the most out of shooting video on the 6D.

I am not sure what settings to use. I've read some articles and old threads and came to the conclusion that probably 30fps at 1/60 is better than 24fps at 1/50 for sports. I've read some articles that recommended higher shutter speeds. And then there's the question of aperture settings. Since there is no autofocus in video, how would I go about doing that manually? Any tips? Or should I just use a large depth of field(what would be good? is f/4 too shallow? would f/8 be better?)

And settings for the video itself. It seems that a lot of sites are recommending to lower contrast, saturation, and sharpness and then "grading" it in post. I have Adobe Premiere Elements that I haven't touched(included on my computer). Can anyone give me a dummies version of grading? I'm used to editing exposure and stuff in lightroom so any analogies to that would be awesome!

canon23 · Dec 4, 2013

Ok ok, so the Sigma 24-70 f/2 doesn't exist, yet. But it's rumored to be in the works and might be available next year. So this begs the question...

would you buy the Canon for $1700 or wait for the Sigma (f2!!)?
I'm starting out as an events photog, mainly weddings and currently have:

5D Mark II & III w/
Canon 24-105 (will sell this once 24-70 is purchased)
Canon 70-200 2.8 II
Sigma 35 1.4
Canon 50 1.8

Your input is much appreciated!!!

cep500 · Dec 4, 2013

Heard unfortunate news that a good friend and very capable marketing rep for Canon USA was recently laid off. Did Canon do a larger round of layoffs, and if so, why? Or was this just a "spot" reduction of people.

Between this and the lack of DSLR product coming out of Canon right now, I'm feeling less than enthused about this company's direction.

entlassen · Dec 4, 2013

Does the Test Fire button on the Yongnuo YN622C act as a standard wireless shutter release?

1) Can you half-press the button to make the camera Auto-Focus, and then full-press the button to take the shot?

2) If you hold down the button, can you shoot in continuous burst? (assuming no speedlight mounted, so no power cycling cooldown)

Basically I'm trying to figure out if the button on the YN622C acts exactly like the camera's shutter button.

Note:
I made a similar thread regarding the Canon 600EX-RT at http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=18425d
A poster replied that the 600EX-RT's release button has neither of the two functions I asked above.

The problem I'm trying to solve is that many standard wireless shutter releases (e.g. Satech WRT-A, Vellos Wireless Shutterboss) require a receiver brick to cold-mount onto the hot-shoe, which means I can't mount a speedlight onto the hotshoe. I am trying to find a wireless shutter release solution that allows me to have a remote release button that acts exactly like the camera's shutter button yet allows me to have a speedlight on the hotshoe at the same time, should I have need to.

Thanks!

StickToYourGuns · Dec 4, 2013

So, over the last few months I've taken an interest in Photography. It's a long story but needless to say I work at best buy, and unlike most of the Best Buy horror stories, our store is lucky enough to have a seasoned photographer who has 30+ years of experience and is just a pleasure to talk to and be around.

He has honestly brought out the photo bug in me that has honestly been wanting to come out for a long time, and with that I want to purchase a camera. I've racked my brain for these few months with all the most popular questions, Canon vs Nikon, APS-C vs FF, and the like, and still cannot honestly come to a conclusion.

I want to shoot:
Concerts (Primarily)
Portraits
Street Photography

Now with the types of photography I want to do, obviously low light is huge. At first I was leaning towards a nikon D7100, as its AF assist lamp seemed like a huge benefit to low light, however for street photos or concerts I won't be using this and therefore renders that point moot.

I'm basically down to the Canon 70D or the Nikon D7100. I know what the basic turnaround here is, "If you want to do any kind of video, go 70D, if you want pure image quality, D7100." Is this the bare bones answer? Working at best buy I have tested them both, and honestly the Ergonomics on the Canon feel much nicer and I enjoy the layout, but if someone can convince me that the features and overall quality of the D7100 is all around better, I could easily be swayed in learning to deal with the layout and feel.

And as a final note, my budget basically is enough for either the 70D or D7100, so roughly $1150 or so. Since this is my first camera, is going with either the 70D or D7100 the smart choice, or should I honestly just save up for the Full Frame, like the D600 which is only $1500 currently? My brain hurts guys, help!

tiger82 · Dec 4, 2013

My new camera fund has reached $3000, barely enough for a used 1D4 or a new 5D3. Looking around, I can also get a Sony A7R with 36MP, ISO 25600 and a 24-70 f/4 FF lens. Or do I keep going and hope to get a lower priced or refurb 1DX for another $5000. I would like a camera for low light stage events.

entlassen · Dec 4, 2013

I know that with two 600EX-RTs or one 600EX-RT + ST-E3-RT, that the off-camera flash unit has a button that can act as a remote shutter release.

My questions are:
1) Can you half-press the button to make the camera Auto-Focus, and then full-press the button to take the shot?

2) If you hold down the button, can you shoot in continuous burst?

Basically I'm trying to figure out if the button on the 600EX-RT acts exactly like the camera's shutter button.

Thanks!

CarlTN · Dec 3, 2013

Hello all, hope you're having a great holiday season!

I am on the fence, can't decide what to buy next. (I know I want the 70-300L, but only at a good price.)

Pardon my long-winded-ness. You're welcome to just skim over this and focus on the parts in bold, or else not read it and just tell about your favorite compact camera(s).

I recently bought a small powershot camera as a gift, refurbished via Canon's website. So far I think it will work well, and for approx. $49.50 including tax and free shipping, I thought why not take a chance? It might get some rough treatment, and very likely will get scratched up, so that's why I didn't want to spend more. I can't believe the little viewfinder zooms! And the tiny lens is f/2.8 at the wide end, faster than my SX150IS.

I guess my question is, is there a viable cheaper alternative to the Sony RX100? (The goal being a somewhat pocketable compact camera with very good image quality). I notice the Samsung NX300 appears to have the same sensor, as does the (perhaps older?) NX1000...which seems to be approaching "nice price" level, close to $350 new via amazon. If this is the same sensor as in the RX100, then that seems like a lot of image quality for the money. I notice the white color version of the NX300 is $50 cheaper than the other colors, as well as the Sony RX100, at $499.

It's likely the NX1000, as a camera, is somehow no good, but I thought I would ask the opinion of the smartest and most insane camera people I know of, so I am posting this here!

I will admit that, given the large 20-50 lens that comes with it...it makes it a lot less pocket-able than the RX100. So that's not good.

Ideally I would like to spend a good bit less than $500. I figure it's either this, or a Canon Rebel T5i refurb body (as a "backup" to my 6D) for $419 (if any more magically become available at that price)...or perhaps both a Rebel and a compact camera...or neither?

For a while I thought the Pentax K-01 looked interesting, but no longer. In the past I've owned the Nikon P7000 (which I felt was better than the G12 or G13, given the longer zoom and the lighter weight...and the 40% cheaper pricetag). Also I owned the Sigma DP2. The Sigma could have fantastic image quality, but I was happy to churn out about 6000 images and then sell it a year and a half later. Recently I printed a lot of 16x20 images on metallic paper, and the ones from the DP2 are mind-blowing! I used PR 7.5 to scale them, but PS would have done about as good.

I would like to own the DP series Merrill camera(s), but that's just a lot of money for a pocket camera, for me right now. Especially considering I've spent like $3500 to $4000 on cameras and lenses over the last year or so...which is huge money to me! Obviously I plan to sell a couple of those lenses...

The only compact camera I have now is the SX150IS. Laugh if you must, but I absolutely enjoy the ergonomics. Admittedly it's a tiny sensor and there's no RAW capture, and it's "only" 14.1 MP within that small sensor. But from ISO 200 and below, it's printable to 16x20. That's a lot of camera for $135 new (or the current refurb price of what, $80? $70?). I've made money with this camera...Oh, and I almost forgot the image stabilization. In my opinion it's approaching 5 stops, at least at the telephoto end.

I also came across the Fuji XF1 via amazon at only $199 (originally it was like $500). However, having read about its problems, I decided not to bite. I highly doubt its sensor compares to the aps-c one in the Sony RX100...since it's smaller, etc.

The reason I don't mention the G15, is because it seems like the image quality is low for even the discounted price of around $299. I also don't like that its zoom range is so short. If I'm going to give up a wide range zoom, then the image quality needs to be a couple of levels above the G15.

I'm most grateful for your thoughts and input!

revup67 · Dec 3, 2013

Before considering a purchase of this lens, it was highly recommended to obtain a rental or loaner. I joined the CPS program, paid the annual fee and requested the 600mm as a loaner. The time period was from its arrival on 11-22-13 to 12-3-13.

My intent was to man handle this lens without use of a tripod or monopod for the entire duration on a Canon 5D Mark III. This would include 1-4 hour segments most every day including hiking on dirt trails, paved trails and the like.

I found one key trick to this whole process and that was to use a 3/8" male threaded cone shaped handle that would screw into the lens foot. (see attached photo). Along with the lens strap and camera strap, this was going to be my sole means of trekking with this lens. (I'm a 54 year old male, about 175 lbs. and workout approx. 2x a week for the past 13 years). I've only offered this info for no other reason other than to help formulate what it might take "should you desire to carry this lens hand held" vs. using a tripod with Gimbal or monopod. Let's put it another way, weight and cardio training will be to your advantage. Some of us out there would not buy such a lens if it is going to require anymore than carrying a lens and camera body though I know many that wouldn't consider it any other way than have a tripod/monpod and gimbal. A close friend of mine carries around a 1D IV and a 500mm on a Gitzo tripod with a high end gimbal head. I thought that was far too cumbersome for my personal taste so opted to hand hold the entire time. Again, that's just me and just trying to offer some confidence for those of you used to carrying around a 100-400 or a 400mm prime..this is solely the point here and potentially do able but testing this scenario first is recommended.

If you've not seen the lens in person, it extends with the lens hood about 28" with camera body total was close to 31".

Overall, I had excellent success (about 95% wild birding shots). I found that by using F4 was a disadvantage as when focusing on the birds eye especially at close range the DOF is wafer thin. So shooting at 1/1000 or higher in Tv mode and letting the camera select the Av was not a good choice. I reverted to Manual, F8 most of the time with a shutter of 1/1000 or higher and saw a significant improvement on my birding photos. If you are not familiar with the DOF calculator online, this would be wise to look into especially in using this type of lens.

In using the 5D Mark III my choices outside of the shutter and aperture were of course AI Servo, Case 2 tracking, Faithful, Evaluative and Auto ISO. On the lens itself, I was mostly on Mode 1 (sometimes Mode 2 when tracking birds in flight), IS was "on" (though I am aware of using IS beyond 1/640 shutter. I did try with IS off and noticed my hit rate went down quite a bit as to be expected.

I noticed "this lens" was quite slow "initially" finding a bird in flight. More specifically, a bird in flight against the skyline. I am unsure if this was my particular loaner or a possible camera choice. In either case, outside of this skyline issue, the focus was extremely fast and the drain on the battery was minimal. On average about 33% battery drain per day. I did encounter yesterday a lockup on the camera with a flashing "A" in my view finder. A simple reboot cleared this and I went on with my shoot. In calling Canon, they had not heard of this flashing "A" but are going to check the 5D this afternoon.

All in all, its quite impressive as you would imagine and if you have your eyes and wallet set on this, I would strongly recommend renting or acquiring a loaner first. Buying this sight unseen (for those that have never used a lens of this magnitude prior) may not be a wise choice as I wish to emphasize it's very cumbersome. For those of you coming off a NON IS version or Version 1 you'll notice a big improvement in weight distribution. its truly well balanced in that respect.

I hope this write up will help anyone out there considering the 600mm IS II lens. If you're interested in seeing some birding photos and similar with this lens my flickr account is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/revup67/with/11185308965/. Thanks for reading.

Rev

entlassen · Dec 3, 2013

I'm looking for a wireless remote for the 5D Mk III. I looked at the default option, which is the Canon RC-6. It's relatively cheap ($20) and has the Canon brand, but after looking at many reviews on Amazon and B&H, it seems to have a few problems:

A) It uses the IR receiver on the 5D's front, which anytime you shoot from behind, you have to annoyingly and awkwardly angle your arm around the front of the camera if you want the signal to go through.

B) You can't trigger the AF by half-pressing the remote button; all you can do is press it the full way and take a shot.

C) You can only use the remote in conjunction with the 2-sec delay and 10-sec delay modes.

With all these problems, I'm looking for an alternative to the RC-6.
My questions:
1) I know an IR remote will probably always encounter Problem (A). But can anyone recommend a well-reviewed IR remote that doesn't have Problem (C) and especially Problem (B)?
2) If I want to bypass Problem (A) I'm guessing I need to buy a remote that requires a wireless transceiver module attached to the 5D. All the ones I've seen are big, bulky bricks that mount to the hotshoe and require me to run an annoying wire between it and the camera. My buddies who have Nikon D800 all seem to use the RFN-4s, which is a tiny receiver that doesn't need to take up the hotshoe and doesn't require the wire.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PCDSBQ/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've tried to find if there's a version of the RFN-4s that works for the 5D but haven't found one. Does anybody have any recommendations?

Thanks!

Canon Rumors · Dec 3, 2013

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<p><strong>From our own Justin Van Leeuwen

</strong>Our reviewer Justin spent some time with the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/973129-REG/canon_5176b002_ef_200_400mm_f_4l_is.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296/kwid/justin" target="_blank">Canon EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x</a> and <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/reviews/review-canon-ef-200-400-f4l-is-1-4x/" target="_blank">did a review that didn’t include birds or bears</a>. One of the shots was a unique model shoot using the lens as well as the PocketWizard Plus IIIs so he could trigger his light from 1600 feet away!</p>
<p><strong>Says Justin about the PocketWizard Plus IIIs

</strong><em>“What impresses me though, is that those PocketWizard’s made it from transmitter on the camera to receiver 1600 ft away, over a moving river, up to a cliff, and set off my Elinchrom Quadra pack reliably and consistently. Wow. I highly recommend these if you ever need to shoot between provinces or states.”<strong>

</strong></em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://blog.pocketwizard.com/?p=7550" target="_blank">Read the story at the PocketWizard blog</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/844969-REG/PocketWizard_801_130_Plus_III_Transceiver_Radio.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">PocketWizard III at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p>Get more of Justin Van Leeuwen on <a href="http://jvlphoto.com/" target="_blank">his site</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/jvlphoto" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, and <a href="https://twitter.com/justinvl" target="_blank">Twitter</a>.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

JohnDizzo15 · Dec 3, 2013

So over the Thanksgiving weekend, I finally gathered the nerve to just let go of my 5D3 as I was offered a fair price for it. That, in conjunction with the deal for the 6D at $1400 pushed me into pulling the trigger on the swap out. Done and done.

Some things I'm struggling with, some not so much. Either way, I think the decision was the right one for me (for now).

Wondering if anyone else has given the same move some thought.

Canon Rumors · Dec 3, 2013

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<p><strong>From Canon USA

</strong>Myself and <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=8488" target="_blank">Bryan over at TDP</a> were told by Canon USA contacts that there was “no announcement of the EOS M2 by Canon USA planned.” I also spoke with contacts in Norway and the UK, and both also said the same thing. I spoke earlier today with a contact at Canon Canada, and he hadn’t heard about the M2 until I mentioned it.</p>
<p>So it looks like the EOS M2 is going to be an Asia only product for the foreseeable future.</p>
<p>I was so bummed about the news <a href="https://twitter.com/canonrumorsguy/status/407949554605375490/photo/1" target="_blank">I went and picked one of these up</a>……..</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Mick · Dec 3, 2013

Hi all. My neighbour passed away and when her son was clearing out the house they found an old camera and gave it to me. It's a German 1950"s Dacora 1. It's an old medium format film camera and it's got a roll of old unused Kodak 120 Codacolour film. Anyone know anything about these old film cameras and where ca n I get instructions how it works? It's a cool looking bit of kit with a vario 75 mm 6.3 lens. Always fancied medium format and doing some old mono film.

mackguyver · Dec 3, 2013

I'm not sure if anyone else has posted this, but looks like a LOT of Canon gear used this year! Incredible photos as always:

Reuters Best Photos of the Year 2013

J.R. · Dec 3, 2013

Hi Guys,

While I am presently saving up for a 300mm f/2.8L II (almost done), my mind is dwelling on its bigger cousins and I am not sure which to get first. I plan to get a 300 and a 500/600 next year in any case so it is basically an issue of which one to get first.

I can probably get the 500mm by early February next year if I do decide on it and the 300 can follow up later. However, a 600mm will be a step too far right now and my wait will probably be longer.

Of course the biggest differences between the two are the 100mm of FL and $$$. Can you guys please advise whether there is any other reason to buy the 500 over the 600?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cheers ... J.R.

Scarpz13 · Dec 3, 2013

Hi Everyone one… going to be fortunate enough to have a little commission/Christmas bonus money left over after taking care of all the gifts for the wife & kiddies, family and friends….

Haven't added to my lens collection since about this time last year; and will have around $1000 or so to spend. Considering the lenses I already have, my first inclination was to pick up a 100L Macro, since none of my lenses are macro. Then I considered the 135L because I don't have a long range prime, and like everyone, I like fast glass.

But as my kids are getting older and into dance recitals and indoor sports, plays, etc… the 135L might be good, but I am considering on of the new Tamron 2.8 zooms. I used to own a 17-50 Tammy for my 60D and found it was great… and I know Dustin from TWI has posted some great reviews here on the Tamron lenses.

I know everyone is going to say the Canon is better, but I'm not in place to spend 2K+ on a lens, at least not without taking away from more important things- I feel guilty enough as it is not spending all my extra money on the kids!

I appreciate any thoughts- and I am a bit concerned that I am more likely to get a "bad copy" of a Tamron, but I think it may be the best value right now. In Toronto they are on sale everywhere… $1000 or so for the 24-70 and $1300ish for the 70-200

thanks!

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