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Neewer TT560 as master?

I'm a newb with flash photography -- I was given a canon 430exii and a Neewer tt560 along with some cowboy studios remote transmitters/receivers. I can figure out how to trigger both of the speedlites off camera when hooked up to the transmitter on my camera, but what I cant quite figure out is how the heck is the Neewer speedlite used as a master? Can it even trigger the canon 430exii (acting as slave) or can the master/slave function only work with other Neewer tt560 models?

I'm completely confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated --I have been scouring the internet as the manual that comes with the neewer speedlite is pretty lame.

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Bokeh: better f/2.8 wide open than f/1.4 stopped down?

I get tired of the ultra shallow, only one eye in focus, super wide aperture shot. Not to speak heresy, but if you routinely stop down a bright lens to get a workable DOF, are you not better off using a 2.8 lens or even an f/4 and shooting it wide open?

From a bokeh standpoint that is. Not all lenses have rounded aperture blades, but even with them aren't you still seeing little septagons or hexagons, etc. around highlights? Wide open (at whatever aperture that is for the lens) you get circles, at least in the center. You can still blur the background if you use a distant background and get in a bit close to subject, use telephoto, etc.

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MIT study about online reviews & fanboys

Self-Appointed Brand Managers
The second explanation is in some respects the reverse of the upset customers explanation. It is possible that these customers are acting as “self-appointed brand managers”. They are loyal to the brand and want an avenue to provide feedback to the company about how to improve its products. They will even do so on products they have not purchased.9
We can further investigate this explanation by asking: when would a self-appointed brand manager be most likely to write a review? One possibility is that customers are more likely to react when they see a product that they did not expect. If a customer, who has only purchased women’s apparel from the firm, is browsing the firm’s website and notices that the firm now sells pet products (for example), this may prompt the self-appointed brand managers to provide feedback by clicking the button inviting a review. Why would self-appointed brand managers be more likely to write a negative review? The French have a phrase that may help to answer this question: “Qui aime bien châtie bien,” which translates (approximately) to “your best friends are your hardest critics.” We investigated whether there is a relationship between the number of items that customers have purchased and the reviewers’ product ratings. The pair-wise correlation between a reviewer’s average product rating and the number of items purchased is 0.048 (p < 0.01). In other words, the most loyal customers are the most negative reviewers.
10
Prior Units Index: The total number of units of this item sold by the firm in the year before the date of the review. At the request of the retailer we index this measure by setting the average to 100% for the reviews with a prior transaction. We investigate this possibility by calculating the following measures:
Niche Items: Equal to one if Prior Units is in the bottom 10% of items with reviews, and equal to zero otherwise.
Very Niche Items: Equal to one if Prior Units is in the bottom 1% of items with reviews, and equal to zero otherwise.
Product Age: Number of years between the date of the review and the date the item was first sold.
New Item: Equal to one if Product Age is less than 2 years and equal to zero otherwise.
New Category: Equal to one if the maximum Product Age in the product category is less than 2 years, and equal to zero otherwise

In the Table 9 we report the average of each measure for reviews with and without prior transactions. The findings reveal large (and highly significant) differences on all of these measures. Reviews without a
prior transaction are more likely to be written for items that were introduced recently. They also tend to be niche items with relatively small sales volumes. These findings are all consistent with the prediction that customers are more likely to provide feedback on items they had not purchased when they see the firm selling a product that they did not expect to see.

something interesting to read.... i bet it fits many members here.....

http://web.mit.edu/simester/Public/Papers/Deceptive_Reviews.pdf

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A New Flash by Years End? [CR2]

HTML:
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<p><strong>A replacement to the 430EX II?

</strong>We’re told a new flash could be announced before years end, though it wasn’t said whether or not it would be replacing an existing flash or being added to the lineup. The lineup does need a less expensive RT capable Speedlite.</p>
<p>We’re also told that the EOS M lineup will also get a new flash above the 90 EX. I think all it needs is the ability to bounce, not sure why they still make flashes that cant be tilted upwards.</p>
<p>More to come I’m sure..</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p> </p>

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What do you think will be the Shelf life of the EOS 6D ?

Hi,
I was wondering if you could give your opinion on that? ???

On one side, the 6D is a full frame. The life of such products is around 3 years (on average) until now.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/Canon_rumours.html

But on the other side, Canon seems to consider the 6D as a consumer camera.
Marketing, button layout, build quality, fps, SD card, same level of CPS support than APS-C, and so on are not definitively on the pro side.
“the EOS 6D is truly the Full-Frame DSLR camera for everyone.” From canon’s website.

So roughly, my question is?
Will the 6D last at least 3 years or will it be renewed every year (like rebel/XXXD) ?
Thanks to share your ideas.

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Which photographers do you admire or are influenced by?

I picked up a camera because I was interested in the power of photography. I became interested in gear, but really a great image interests me more than a great new innovation.

I've listed a few photographers who's work I admire, would be interested to see who other forum users list.

http://www.martinparr.com/ I admire his cheeky, punchy, observational images. Divisive. To me he is the photographic equivalent of Nick Broomfield or Jonathan Meades.

http://www.oscarmarzaroli.com/ Some of the best known images of Glasgow old meeting Glasgow new (well, then, new) from the old industries and slums to the brave new world of motorways through the heart of the city.
Not a photographer of exceptional vision or talent imho, but he documented a place I know well and love at a time before I could know it.

http://www.rockarchive.com/jill-furmanovsky-photographer.html She documented most of my musical heroes. On stage but also around the bands, personal and intimate. Off-guard. Part of my thinks i should judge such musical heroes on their music, part of me wants to know a bit about them, and that part of me seeks out the images of Jill Furmanovsky.

http://www.colinprior.co.uk/portfolio/ When I dabble in landscape I try to pick a spot that Colin hasn't been to. He sets the benchmark in Scottish landscapes. Nobody else's work will measure up for a given location. His work was over-franchised a few years ago, and the camera club crew seem to want to replicate his every shot (a compliment) but the quality and craft endures. I try (without any great success) to learn from his approach but would never tackle one of his subjects, except for fun.

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Canon Sale?

So for the past couple of weeks, I have been trying to save some money to buy a Canon 16-35 and 70-200 f2.8. I arranged the money so that I would be able to buy the two lenses and two Heliopan ND filters for the lenses.

I got the money arranged two days ago, However when I went on the B&H to buy the lenses, the prices were increases on both lenses. Apparently Canons Sale was over on the 7th of July. All together this increases the total price by $500. I mean I could still buy the lenses but I wouldn't have enough money to buy the filters and it would be $500 spent on nothing.

What do you guys think I should do? Im not in a rush to buy these lenses but it would be good if I could get it by the first week of next month. Do you think Canon will have another sale on these lenses in the upcoming weeks? OR should I just buy the lenses without the filters (How useful would a 70-200 be without an ND filter)?

Thank You Very Much!!!

***

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With the 70D en route... what should the price of a 7D be?

I know the 70D has a better/new sensor and wifi, but I can't imagine the original 7D should be priced less than the initial asking price for the 70D body, which will be $1200 at launch, and probably settle around $1100 after 4 or 5 months with rebates and dealer discounts on packages.

But I'm looking at Craig's List and Amazon and I know a ton of people are jumping ship for full frame with the 6D being an excellent low light camera and the 5D mkiii being better in regards to image quality, low light performance, and while it has a slower shots per second, it isn't a slouch at 6 fps.

The 7D launched with a price of $1700 in 2010 (per Canon price watch, I really don't care if I'm off by a few months), and the price has dropped for a new body for as low as $1100 at one point.

I'm seeing used prices around $850 and even some people selling theirs for around $700. I find it hard to believe that the 7D isn't the preferred option over the 70D. I can people shying away from buying one new for $1200, but I feel the used price for a really good condition 7D should be around $950 or so... unless the people are just wanting to drop their old gear and don't care about the $250 or so they are losing.

Maybe there isn't that big of a difference between $850 and $950, but between $700... it seems like a huge gap.

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The Lumia 1020...final death blow to the Point and Shoot?

I just read some of the reviews on the Lumia 1020. I have to say, from a photography standpoint, I am REALLY impressed. It finally brings the true PureView 808's 41mp sensor, the 6-element Zeiss lens from the 925, and full Xenon flash to a phone pretty much built for photography. Their pro photo software looks rather nice, giving you complete control over all the standard aspects of exposure (i.e. want to do a long exposure and blur people walking by...you can). I love the fact that it has the extended battery "grip" accessory, too.

http://www.nokia.com/global/products/phone/lumia1020


So, does this mark the true end of the point and shoot, and the beginning of full blown photography phones with all the features we *photographers* have come to expect from an actual camera? To date, phone cameras have been geared more towards the instagrammer crowd...the Lumia 1020 seems to be positioned more for pro photographers who want something simpler, but still just as capable, for a handy every-moment alternative to a DSLR.

Is it only me who thinks this?

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Next purchase?

Hello all,
I've been reading this forum quite a bit, and I have to tell you that all the great information I've found has helped tremendously. I decided I wanted to venture out a little further into my photography hobby, and I'm hoping you guys can give me your opinions.

I currently have a 7D (10000 actuations), with a Canon 17-85, a Sigma 70-300 F/4.5, a 50mm F/1.8, and 580EX II. I'd like your advice on which would be the better option. A good portion of my pictures will be portrait, with a mixture of indoor and outdoor (think family pictures)...a good portion lower light. I'm really disappointed with the quality of almost all of my lenses. I've budgeted around $2K.

Option 1: Keep the 17-85, and get a 70-200 F/2.8L IS Mk II. I'd have the long range for candid outdoor photography with tack-sharp focus.

Option 2: Get rid of the 17-85, in exchange for a 24-70 F/2.8L Mk II. Since a larger number of my pictures will be in this range, get a great lens for indoors and close range, while sacrificing on the long range side (since my 70-300 is not a great lens.

Option 3: Get the 24-105 F/4L, and a 70-200 F/2.8L Mk I. Compromise...I get good lenses for each. I keep hearing that the Mk II 70-200 is such a better lens than the Mk I, makes me think I may not be happy with the focus of the Mk I.

Of course, there's always the option of selling my 7D and getting a 5D with an F/4L lens.

Thoughts?

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Lee Filters for Wideangel

Hello guys,

I'm looking to purchase the lee filter system and am confused about what i need.
I'd like to use it mostely with the 16-35 II, so i certainly need a 82mm wideangel adapter.

What i'm confused is that i don't know what i need as a holder, there are some sets available like:

Lee Professional Set,
Foundation Kit,
Lee 100mm push on holder (for the ultra wide-angle, large and medium format photography)

And i suppose the filters are 100-150mm!?

Your help is really appreciated.

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Strange blue in place of black

Hi guys,

I'm very new to video, I'm moving over slightly from a stills background as I've received funding to direct my first short film (of a screenplay I wrote) as a pitch for a feature.
I'm shooting on a Canon 60D, and I have the latest version of Magic Lantern installed. The only Magic Lantern setting I'm using is the cropmarks overlay, so I can see the camera LCD in the cinescope aspect ratio. Everything else outside of the Overlay tab hasn't been touched at all, it's the firmware default.

I'm getting this weird blue where (I assume) there should be total black. I've noticed it on the edge of a bowel, inside a coke can etc. but it's most noticeable when shooting these drawings (as shown below). Since I'm also new to the 60D I don't know if it's an ML issue or an issue with the 60D's settings.

It's not a software issue as the files look like that straight out of the camera, they look like that in Sony Vegas and they look like that after being exported.

However, I do notice that they slightly flicker on the page when the pencil is pressed down. Could this maybe be a reflection issue with the lights I'm using in that location? I'm not using any special lights, they're just the ones that are in the kitchen all the time. The flickering isn't noticeable unless I watch it on my 21inch screen (full screen) or larger.

Here's sample shots of what I mean:

The blue lines:

9lew01.jpg


The flicker of the blue lines: (watch the arm in the drawing)

jsdcbb.jpg


2ugyrh3.jpg


Can anyone offer a little bit of help as to how to get rid of this or what it might be?

(I only notice the colour difference now, that's because the very first image is from the colour corrected final product. And the other two images are SOOC)

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Just For Fun!

I thought just for fun I'd post the top things I'm sick of hearing in the world of photography. Here are some that come to mind:

1. You can shoot better shots with a P&S than a 1Dx if you understand lighting
2. Gear doesn't matter, it's the photographer
3. Well, back in the film days...
4. RAW is a crutch
5. If you get it right in camera you don't need to do post-processing
6. Canon's falling way behind in sales because of the D800 and DR
7. L-glass is ALWAYS better than non-L

That's all I had right now.

Thought of another one:
8. If you have to ask questions about the <insert gear>, then you don't need it.

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"Hints from Heloise" type of tip!

Here is a little tip that I have been using and it may be helpful to others.

I use a label maker for my equipment for a lot of things because it doesn't mar the finish, and it is neat.

I can label +/- signs for battery compartments that are poorly labeled (pocket wizards etc).
Here is a really cool one. For my 400mm 5.6 l tele, I find that the AFMA for close in work has a different adjustment compared to far away. I calibrated it and I put the figure on the lens hood, so I can quickly change it out as needed. The label is easily changed as calibration changes.

Obviously, not a permanent identification, but that is the point.

I hope this is helpful, and I would be interested if anyone else uses this and if so, there are other uses for it.

sek

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reassuring stories

Hi everyone-

So, I took my 7D fishing this morning, which had two unfortunate results.

1) I jinxed myself and did not catch any fish, since I was prepared to photograph one well.

2) I slipped on a rock and fell in the river. 7D, on, with 28 1.8 mounted, took a quick plunge.

I figure about 1/2 second in the water, another second later it was switched off, battery out. Wiped down the entire camera using the dry part of my shirt, came home, put it in rice. Now, when it switched off, I did see the "Sensor cleaning", so I know it didn't immediately short. It was also a very clear stream (which probably contributed to fish seeing me and swimming away...). While drying it off, there was 1 drop of water (probably 5-10 uL) on the mirror, but nothing else in the mirror box. CF card and compartment were dry, etc. Battery compartment looked fine- there was one drop on the clock battery that worried me a bit, but not much I can do about it...

So, on the "not much I can do about it" note, anyone have reassuring stories for me? Camera and lens are in a crock pot with a bunch of rice, cover on, and going to stay there at least 5 days no matter what you tell me. But, I'd probably sleep better tonight knowing other peoples' cameras have survived worse... :-)

Also, I've got the camera upside down, because it is a 7d, and has a popup flash. I figure if there's water anywhere, it's in the flash, and I'd rather that drain out, rather than into the camera. But I can't pop the flash open because it's off. And I'm not about to power it up just to pop the flash open.... If anyone has thoughts / insights in that area, I'd appreciate them.

Thanks for helping me through this troubling time!!

-Brian

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70d + 70-200 II vs. 5d III

Hey Forum,
I've been shooting a lot of concerts for a radio station and am about to start working as a 2nd shooter with a wedding photographer, in addition to all the work I do for my high school (I'm 16).

My current gear lineup is as follows:
Rebel t3i/600d
Tokina 11-16 2.8
Sigma 50 1.4
Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC
Canon 70-300 4-5.6 IS

Obviously, the biggest weak point is that 70-300 followed by the t3i. I'm selling a bunch of stuff that should give me close to a $3000 budget for upgrading some gear, so that begs the question: would I benefit more from a 70d + 70-200 2.8 IS II or a 5dIII body?

While nobody knows how the 70d is going to perform, I'm leaning towards that combination, simply because better glass means better images, plus upgrading to the mark III means my lenses get wider so I'd have to use the 70-300 more, which basically defeats the purpose of full frame image quality, especially since the majority of my work is in very low light (meaning I have to shoot it close to wide open).

In any case, let me know what you all think, and if you want to see the work I'm doing, please head over to my blog, http://silvestography.tumblr.com

Thanks!

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300mm f/4 L IS vs 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS vs 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II +1.4 TC II

Currently I've a 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS and a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II +1.4 TC II in my kit. Both of these cover the (near) 300 mm focal length reasonably well, but...

I'm wondering if a 300mm f/4 L IS would be a useful tool to add to my lens line-up.

The objective is motion-stopping speed for animal photography (mostly in the zoo) and that 3D 'pop' that seems to be lacking from my 100-400 most of the times.

What are your experiences with these lenses ie would it make sense for me to get the 300 mm prime?

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1Ds Mk II wireless remote

So like the title says, I have been trying to find a wireless remote that works with the N3 connector and/or hotshoe of my Canon 1Ds Mk II.

So far I have tried the following:
[Pixel Pro - had high hopes as it was well rated](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049HCSM8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), might try it again.

[Aputure 2.4Ghz Trigmaster Radio Remote Flash Trigger and Shutter Cable Release](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FLC7YC/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), no the name is not mispelled.

I have the following 3 in my Amazon Wishlist to try in case anyone has experience with them:
* [Opteka 650' Wireless Radio Remote Shutter Release Control](http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Control/dp/B005ZH2YYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?...

* [RainbowImaging 100 Meter 2.4GHz Wireless Remote Shutter Release](http://www.amazon.com/RainbowImaging-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Replaces/dp/B004EDMSO0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_...

* [Cowboy Studio Wireless Remote Trigger Switch](http://www.amazon.com/Cowboy-Studio-Wireless-Trigger-RS-80N3/dp/B002X7FSO6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie...

Not looking for anything fancy but would be willing to spend a couple extra bucks if I can get one that will allow for a flash on top of it (plan to get a flash unit sometime).

Please note, I cannot afford to buy the Canon Wi-fi adapter thing, not to mention it has terrible reviews.

Thanks!

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