Threads

Don Haines · Jan 25, 2014

I spend a lot of time here in the spring, summer, and fall. This is canoeing and camping paradise... What's your favourite photos of the park?

Otterslide Creek
Cedar Lake
Grand Lake
Barron River panorama

Neutral · Jan 25, 2014

Sony is pushing limits with it's new MF 50mpx CMOS sensor - vey high IQ at ISO6400:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/iq250_back_announced.shtml
--------------
The IQ250's new Sony-built sensor offers options for medium-format shooters, including high-sensitivity performance up to ISO 6,400; exposures as short at 1/10,000 of a second and as long as one hour; and a dynamic range spanning 14 f-stops for a better ability to capture details in both shadows and highlights. It doesn't take advantage of CMOS sensors' superior ability to shoot video, but that's no surprise or even shortcoming given that Phase One sells machines designed solely to capturing the best still photos possible.
---------------
http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-cameras/phase-one-iq250/4505-6501_7-35834930.html
http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/01/24/phase-one-iq250-medium-format-camera-back-faster-better-in-low-light

surapon · Jan 25, 2014

Dear Friends
in 2007, I have a chance to go on top of Washington Monument and Use my dear Canon 20 D shoot these Pictures.
Sorry, The Dirty of the Glass window make the Photos not quite good.
Enjoy.
Surapon

garlictrucker · Jan 25, 2014

There have been rumors of Canon developing a medium format system. The possibility of them buying an existing camera manufacturer (possible Phase One) may have been buried yesterday (Jan. 24, 2014) with the announcement of Phase One adopting the Sony sensor in their new CMOS camera system. Now Nikon and Phase One are in the clutches of Sony. There is no doubt that Canon is behind in development of a large sensor camera. Any thoughts??

bkpr100 · Jan 25, 2014

Hey all!
I'm a newcomer to the forums and a radio documentarian that's been expanding my storytelling to video over the last 5 years.

I've been seeing a few Nikkor/Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8's (specifically the AF edition) going used within the $500-$600 range and was wondering whether it might make sense to pick one of these up as the closest comparable lens in the Canon lineup price-wise is the non-IS 70-200 f/4 (??).

Acknowledging the tradeoff of losing A/F and 10mm of focal range (70 vs 80) while gaining an extra stop (f/2.8 vs f/4), do the Nikkor/Nikons become a good option in that price range?

This would be for video exclusively.

Appreciate any critical assessments that can be offered!

JVLphoto · Jan 25, 2014

HTML:

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<p><a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-01-25" title="Egami" target="_blank">Egami</a> has shown that Canon has filed a patent for an ultra-wide angle zoom:</p>
<p>(Translated)</p>
<p>Description and self-interpretation of the patent literature</p>
<p><strong>Patent Publication No. 2014-10286</strong>
</p>
<li>Publication date 2014.1.20</li>
<li>Filing date 2012.6.29</li>
<p>
</p>
<p><strong>Example 1</strong>
</p>
<li>Zoom ratio 2.06</li>
<li>Focal length f = 11.30-18.00-23.30mm</li>
<li>Fno. 4.10</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 62.42-50.24-42.88mm</li>
<li>Image height Y = 21.64mm</li>
<li>172.19-161.28-162.86mm overall length of the lens</li>
<li>BF 38.82-52.31-63.15mm</li>
<p>
</p>
<p>Canon users have been left out in this focal range for quite some time. With Nikon and their legendary 14-24mm f/2.8G ED and  other third party offerings filling up the gap in the market. Can Canon produce an optically superior lens that also has such a shallow depth of field? Until they do, the only wide-angle zooms that Canon makes that come close are the <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/reviews/review-canon-ef-16-35mm-f2-8l-ii/" title="16-35mm review" target="_blank">16-35 f/2.8 L II</a> or the <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/reviews/review-canon-ef-8-15-f4l-fisheye/" title="8-15mm review" target="_blank">8-15mm f/4L Fisheye</a>.</p>
<p>[<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-01-25" title="Egami" target="_blank">Egami</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

blindcat · Jan 25, 2014

Hi there,
inspired by the Still Photo Series Time is a Dimension by Fong Qi Wei I created a Film that travels through the Time, Light and Night. It was shot with a 5D Mark II. Enjoy:

Time Reloaded on Vimeo

(click on the link below the video when embedding has an error) Thank you,
- Frankie

AlanF · Jan 25, 2014

My son has just got a holiday home by a lake in Halifax Nova Scotia and invited us there for August. My wife and I are into bird photography. All advice welcome please, bearing in mind I am a fit 70.

schuy117 · Jan 25, 2014

So let me start be saying:
I shoot as a hobby and don't think this will change.
I own a 450D/RebelXSi I bought in 2009 (my first ever not point&shoot camera) and now I am looking for a new body. Last weekend a friend let me use his 7D 24-70 2,8 combo and my eyes where really pleased with the results, but my wrist was not. I really would like to upgrade to FF but I think the whole combination of FF bodys + FF lens is not suited for me and my wrist. So crop sensor is the way to go for my, and thats ok.

Now back to the topic:
Canon mananged to put a crop sensor like the one in the 7D into the body of the 100D/SL1 and personally I think that is awesome.
Do you think Canon could fit a FF sensor like the one in the 6D into a body like the 700d/T5i?
Could you imagine them planing such a step in the near future? Would there by a market for such a product? Would you by one?

I think the 100D/SL1 sells quite pleasingly for Canon (i have no data on this) and I would buy a 700Dish body with a FF sensor and can imagine others would to.

Thoughts?

edit:
Size comparison
http://camerasize.com/compact/#380,154,449,448,ha,f

strangelove · Jan 25, 2014

My wife commented, before she asked me why I was having such a tough time choosing a camera.

You see, I was a Nikon shooter for several years, and owned everything from a D70, all the way through to a d700. I finally jumped ship a couple of years ago and got a 5D mark III.

I'm certainly not a pro, well I am, a pro high school teacher, but not a pro photographer. I used to shoot 10,000-15,000 shots a year for the district. Sports, events, portraits, you name it. Funds were short a few months ago and I had to sell my 5d, with the understanding that I'd replace it when we had the money. Now we have the money.

These days I run a program, and my shooting needs have gone way down. I do however have an 8 month old that refuses to sit still and an apartment with no overheads that seems to be dim and dingy no matter how many lamps I add.

So, here's the actual question part:

As a Nikon shooter, I never even questioned that I'd have a few cross type points to be able to use to accurately compose a shot as I saw it in my mind. Now, I no longer really need the bad-ass 5d3 61 spread AF system. But I rented a 6d and, well, frankly, it blows.

No offense to anyone, if I shot landscapes, I'd love it. But I can't quite believe that I can't compose a shot unless I use the center point. I have to shoot at mainly f1.4-f2 in my apartment, and with that sort of thin DOF, focus and recompose just isn't going to cut it with a moving kid.

So, in short-- I guess I can't quite believe that to get a FF camera with more than 1 cross-type point, I have to spend $3300.

I think a lot of Canon users are ok with it because, prior to the 7d certainly, it was sort of the norm for Canon AF. In fact it still is for the rebel crowd.

Coming from Nikon however, it's like asking a surgeon to perform a transplant with a butter knife.

My wife has a 70d for video of the kid, and we have a 24-105 and a 40mm 2.8. No other investment in Canon glass.

I guess my options are:

1. Suck it up and drop $3300 on a semi-pro 5d, just to get say 5 or 6 more accurate cross-type points across the frame.
2. Stop being an AF namby pamby, and just man up, get a 6d, because "real men do it by hand anyway"!
3. Grab one of those mighty tempting D700's on CL that go for around $1100 (in which the sensor still out performs anything from Canon) grab a couple of primes and go on my way, using the 70 as my video cam.
4. Do something really cool that I never thought of that you all are about to suggest to me.

I'd appreciate any input you guys might have...

rs · Jan 25, 2014

http://www.canonwatch.com/canon-patent-11-24mm-f4-lens/

growler · Jan 24, 2014

Hi. I'm hoping to prevail on the collective wisdom of CR regulars for advice on building my lens kit after making the change from crop sensor to FF (I've got the 6D - great camera). I got rid of the last of my crop sensor lenses, leaving me with the following lenses: 24-105 f4L, 50 f1.8II, and an older Sigma 70-200 f2.8 APO HSM (no OS) that I've had since my Elan IIe days. I shoot landscapes, occasional portraits, and I would like to get into macro. I don't shoot sports and don't plan to. I see two possible paths forward: go mostly with primes or rely mostly on zooms. In either case, I plan to keep the 24-105 because of its versatility as a walk around lens.

Plan 1. Add the 24mm f2.8 IS, 35mm 2.0 IS, 100mm f2.8L IS, and 200mm f2.8L. Sell the Sigma. Perhaps add a Rokinon 14mm manual focus later. On hikes when I want to keep the weight down, I could go with the 24, 35, and 100 and have most of the bases covered.

Plan 2. Add the 17-40mm f4L, 70-200mm f4L IS, and 100mm f2.8L IS. Sell the Sigma 70-200 f2.8. I don't want to buy the Canon 70-200 f2.8L (IS or non-IS) both because of the weight and the fact that for most landscape I don't need shallow DOF. Similar comments apply for the 16-36mm f2.8L. On hikes when I want to minimize weight, I would go with the 17-40, the 50, and the 70-200 f4L. I suppose that I could add macro ability by swapping the 50 1.8 for a 50 2.5 macro.

Any thoughts about either of these plans or other recommendations? Thanks.

Ron in AZ · Jan 24, 2014

I am a photo enthusiaist with $1800 to spend on new gear. I am considering a Canon D6, a Canon 100-400 L, a Tamron 150-600, or wait until the Canon D7 Mark ii is released. I currently own a Canon D7, a Tokina 11-16, Canon 17-40 L, Canon 24-105 L, and a Canon 70-300 L. I like to shoot with a minimal of gear and usually shoot with only one lens - part of the reasons for the zooms. The video capabilities of a camera are of minor interst to me. Any suggestions?

mackguyver · Jan 24, 2014

I'm just wondering if anyone has tried stacking their Mk III extenders with the 12mm extension tube and attaching that to a Mk II super telephoto. I realize it would compromise image quality considerably, but I have all the parts other than the 12mm extension tube, and could see myself using it in some situations. I ask because I see George Lepp using similar combos with good results (see below) and wonder if it's worth getting the 12mm tube to use the extenders with my 300 2.8 IS II. I plan to use it for its intended purpose, but was curious about stacked TC results, too.

http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/shooting/extreme-close-up.html

pdirestajr · Jan 24, 2014

If you want a good laugh.
Fstoppers Nikon DF Digital Camera Hipster Review

unfocused · Jan 24, 2014

Well, that should stir things up a bit.

Here's the setup: Phase One and Hasselblad have announced 50 mp sensors for their large format (I really don't feel that we can refer to these as "medium" format anymore) cameras.

Some may see this as a sign that Canon "must" now offer a high megapixel sensor. I think just the opposite.

We have discussed to the point of nausea the idea that the larger sensor size of "full frame" cameras will always outperform APS-C. So the same principle applies here. There is simply no way that a DSLR sensor can match the performance of these large format sensors. Scale up a 19 mp APS-C sensor and you get to just under 50 mp., so you are talking about pixel density somewhere between that of the 7D and 70D to match the new 50 mp of these large format cameras.

If Canon cannot compete on quality, they can only compete on price. So, then the question becomes, what percentage of the large format market is price sensitive? I'm guessing that few current users of either Phase One or Hasselblad would be convinced to switch based on pricing. That, in turn, leaves the sales potential only for new users. The point is we are talking about a niche, within a niche, within a niche.

Now, if Canon were to take one of their APS-C sensors and simply scale it up to full frame they might be able to keep their development costs down, but would it be low enough to turn a profit on the body? I don't know. And, you'd have to account for the extra waste that would occur with the larger sensors.

All in all, I'm thinking that a high megapixel body is becoming less and less appealing for manufacturers.

Let the flame wars begin!!!

surapon · Jan 24, 2014

Dear Friends.
Yes, I love to recorded the Old-Beautiful House in the rural small town in North Carolina.
Enjoy.
Have a great Weekend.
Surapon.

http://www.historicjacksonnc.com/

Jan 24, 2014

HTML:

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<p>The <a href="http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/cinemaeos_white_papers.shtml" title="Digital Learning Centre" target="_blank">Canon Digital Learning Centre</a> has published a new batch of white papers on their EOS Cinema system including:</p>
<p>NEW: Personality of the Canon Cinema EOS Lens: Design Strategies

The newer generation of Cinema EOS lenses came from multiple optical design resources within Canon, such as ourEF Lens and Broadcast Lens designs.</p>
<p>NEW: Personality of the Canon Cinema EOS Lens: Image Sharpness

A design goal with the Cinema zoom lenses was to achieve an overall optical performance that would equate with the best of contemporary prime lenses over their respective focal lengths.</p>
<p>NEW: Personality of the Canon Cinema EOS Lens: Color Reproduction

The new generation of Canon Cinema lenses paid high attention to optimizing color reproduction of the lens-camera system, such as how it reproduces skin tones of various ethnicities.</p>
<p>NEW: Personality of the Canon Cinema EOS Lens: Contrast

Achieving a high contrast ratio is universally sought by cinematographers and is always a central design goal for the optical designers.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p>Via [<a href="http://www.canonwatch.com/canon-dlc-publishes-cinema-eos-white-papers/" title="Canon Watch" target="_blank">CW</a>]</p>

Jan 24, 2014

HTML:

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<p>Took them long enough. Apparently Gitzo has caught onto what the rest of us have known for a while: That Arca-Swiss plates and quick/releases are the way to go for ultimate camera stability and security while on a set of sticks. Full press release below:</p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<blockquote><p><strong>GITZO UPGRADES HEADS AND TRIPOD KITS WITH A NEW QUICK-RELEASE SYSTEM COMPATIBLE WITH ARCA-SWISS PLATES</strong></p>
<p>TORONTO, ON., January 23, 2014 – Gentec International, the exclusive Canadian distributor of Gitzo products, announces a new quick-release system that is being introduced across many of Gitzo’s heads, Traveler tripod kits, and accessories. Compatible with Arca- Swiss plates and most other manufacturers’ Arca-Swiss style plates, Gitzo’s new system also offers a number of significant advantages over alternative quick-release systems.</p>
<p>Gitzo’s new system is easier to use during set-up and changeovers, and offers failsafe support of camera equipment. The camera/plate can be snapped into the head from above, which is faster and easier than trying to slide it in from the side. When a Gitzo plate is used, the quick-release system’s secondary safety pin will also engage to prevent camera equipment from falling accidentally from the head, even if the plate locking lever is not fully locked.</p>
<p>The plate also features Gitzo’s new camera screw design. To make it as easy as possible to use, no matter where you are and what tools you have on hand, the screw can be tightened by hand, using a coin or with the supplied allen key.</p>
<p>The hybrid system, used on many of the new models, will also take traditional Gitzo C-profile plates, making it especially useful for photographers who already own and use Gitzo C-profile plates as their standard equipment. To accept Gitzo C-profile plates, the adaptor is simply removed from the clamp.</p>
<p>The new quick-release system includes three standard centre ball heads (GH1780QD, $379.95 MSRP; GH2780QD, $479.95 MSRP; GH3780QD, $549.95 MSRP), two Traveler centre ball heads (GH1781TQD, $319.95 MSRP; GH2781TQD, $359.95 MSRP), a Systematic head (GH5381SQD, $669.95 MSRP), and two Traveler tripod kits (GK1580TQD4, $1,039.95 MSRP; GK2580TQD, $1,149.95 MSRP). Accessories are also available and include quick-release adaptors and plates, plus a panoramic disc.</p></blockquote>
<p>JVL’s take:

I own a Gitzo tripod and love it, there are many good tripods out there, but this one is mine. I gave up on Manfrotto and Gitzo’s own ballheads a while ago though. I found I could never place my camera *just* right (especially with added weight like a grip and telephoto lens). The worst problem I’ve experienced is over torquing the plate to your camera’s tripod mount, leading to a stripped thread and a costly replacement. I’ve personally been using a combo of Acratech’s ballhead and Really Right Stuff L-Plates, but as long as it works, and works well, I’m not too brand specific.  As Gitzo is owned by Manfrotto, maybe we’ll see even the entry level line with improved mounts soon as well.</p>
<p>While not online yet, you can check out a wide assortment of <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Complete-Tripod-Systems/ci/9941/N/4232859862/bi/2466/kbid/3296/kwid/justin" title="Gitzo" target="_blank">Gitzo products at B&H</a> and <a href="http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=itemlist&cat1=Tripods?kbid=64393%20%26%20Supports&cat2=Tripods&feature1=gitzo" title="Gitzo" target="_blank">Adorama</a>.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

jd7 · Jan 24, 2014

A question for anyone who has the 40mm pancake and the Canon 35 f2 IS: do you see yourself keeping the 40 and 35 in your kit long term or do you see them as largely redundant? Which of the two do you prefer? I realise the 35 is a stop faster before you even take into account the IS, while the 40 is much smaller and lighter (although I gather the 35 is still fairly small and light), but I'm keen to hear from anyone who's used them both.

I've currently got a 40mm pancake, a Sigma 50 1.4 and an old Canon 28 1.8 (which I used as a general purpose prime on crop, but which hasn't seen much use since I got a 6D). I'm planning to sell the 28, and I'm thinking about getting the 35 f2 IS but I wonder if I need (can justify!) having a 35 and a 40 (And a 50!). I'd be using the lens mostly as a general walk around/street/low light prime when I want to go small and light (so something like the Sigma 35 1.4 isn't so appealing to me despite it's IQ reputation). Another option is to sell the 40 as well as the 28, and replace them both with the 35. Or I could just forget the 35 and stick with the 40. To the extent relevant, I do have a Sigma 24-70 2.8 HSM as well. (I'd actually like to reduce the number of lenses I own, but somehow I seem to find buying easier than selling!)

Thanks for any comments you can offer!

Jan 24, 2014

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<p>Gura Gear, a CR favourite, has launched a new bag which is sure to be a hit for professional photographers everywhere. From their release:</p>
<p>“We are excited to introduce the newest addiition to the Gura Gear product line, the <a href="http://www.guragear.com/uinta/" title="Uinta" target="_blank">Uinta adventure backpack system</a>. Named after the majestic Uinta mountain range located right in our backyard of Northern Utah, the Uinta is the ultimate adventure pack ready to haul camera gear and hiking essentials wherever your travels take you.</p>
<p>The Uinta is an adventure pack designed to utilize our new modular photo inserts and tripod and hydration system. Small Pro and Medium Pro Modules as well as a Tripod & Hydration System (THS) are available as separate components.”</p>
<p>JVL’s take:

We all tend to pack our bags to capacity, or even beyond it, often forgetting we need basic survival gear for ourselves. A bottle of water, an apple, maybe a sweater. The modular nature of the Uinta gives you the opportunity to choose how much space you need for gear, and how much for everything else. I could have used this bag when I went to Iceland a few years ago. I also know CR swear’s by his GuraGear packs and won’t hear about anything else from anyone else. From what I can see (I don’t own one myself) I tend to agree that if you need to max out your gear in a bag that works perfectly, GuraGear is the choice of many pros and amateurs alike.</p>
<p>Gura Gear has a special when you purchase a Uinta with the Small Pro and Medium Pro Modules; you receive a free Tripod & Hydration System when you <a href="http://gallery.mailchimp.com/4707c2be1fbe4fc633df71224/files/MailinRebate_Uinta_RBT_2014_0125.1.pdf" title="Mail In Form" target="_blank">mail in this form</a>. (Valid until February 28th 2014)</p>
<p>You can see full details on the bag, including many photographs on the <a href="http://www.guragear.com/uinta/" title="Gura Gear" target="_blank">Gura Gear website</a>.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Pjay · Jan 24, 2014

Hello,
So I've been surfing the internet for few days now and trying to find a good strobe for ~300$. Im from Europe so, for example, getting an alienbee is not an option for me. Are there any other good flash units to choose from for that price? Thanks for any kind of help

amoore00357 · Jan 24, 2014

I am wanting to buy a couple flashes and I'm not for sure what to do. I don't get paid for anything so I'm trying to keep it a cheaper setup. I already have the canon 430exII. I want to buy two more flashes so I can have the 3 flash setup for cars, family pictures, ect. I still want to have the ETTL ability so I can adjust power levels from the camera (transmitter). I have been looking at the Pixel King transmitters/receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Trigger-Flashes-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B005TQFRTY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1390569022&sr=8-4&keywords=pixel+king

I think that would be a good system from what I read is it will be able to the the ETTL things I want it to do.
So the 2nd part is what type of flashes would you recommend. I am thinking about buying 2 of the Yongnuo 560 III flashes.
Would that work for what I am wanting to achieve? Thanks

José J. Soto · Jan 23, 2014

Hi, first post. I purchased a Yongnuo YN-568 EX in June through Amazon. The flash was working great until about two weeks ago when it started locking up/freezing, and the controls simply refused to work. I would remove and reinsert the batteries, turn it on again, and I would get a few flashes before it would lock again. Off-camera it would fire once or twice then lock up, and won't cycle through the menu.

I simply don't have the money for a good Canon flash and I don't want to purchase another unit if I can get this one serviced/fixed. I sent an email to Yongnuo today but I'm not holding my breath. Anybody else with the same issues?

My bodies: EOS 60D & EOS Elan 7N film. Flash was working just fine with both until two weeks ago.

(P.S.: How can I get rid of the "PowerShot G15" line under my name?)

weixing · Jan 23, 2014

Hi,
Do anyone of you know is there any EOS camera that had MF (Manual Focusing) peaking??

I was reading the DIGIC 6 image processor page and in the MF peaking section, it's mentioned that "with MF Peaking, a concept inherited from EOS cameras", so I just wonder which EOS camera had it?? My 60D and 6D don't have it.

Have a nice day.

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