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Canon Rumors · Jan 14, 2014

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<p>We’ve received conflicting information about which body is going to get announced for CP+. Two sources have said it won’t be the EOS 7D Mark II, but something “not professional”. So perhaps we’ll see a new Rebel?</p>
<p><span style="line-height: 1.5em;">We’re told that a new APS-C body will be used at the Olympic games, but won’t be announced beforehand.</span></p>
<p>More to come…</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

DaveMiko · Jan 14, 2014

I have all the gear I need now. ... Said no photographer (or keen enthusiast) ever.

Boyer U. Klum-Cey · Jan 14, 2014

Yesterday, I got a letter from Canon Rebates telling me that my "UPC" code for a recent lens purchase was invalid. Today, I called and said: "Whattz up?". The rep solved my issue in 4 minutes, and admitted that it was a problem on their end. Well done, Canon!

procentje20 · Jan 14, 2014

I noticed my copy of the 8-15mm fisheye is not centered. The distance between the image circle and the left side of the image is shorter then the right side. Top and bottom is correct.

Can other owners check their copy?

I'd expect an L lens to be flawless in build. So if others dont have this, I'm exchanging it at the shop.

JPlendPhoto · Jan 14, 2014

I don’t want another f/4 lens; I want something faster like an f/2.8 or f/2. Yes I shoot some weddings and the last one I shot I used both my Canon 17-40mm f/4 and my Canon 70-200mm f/4, both good lenses but both are f/4 also the 17-40 is a wide angle lens.

If I had the money I would love to buy the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 II lens, but I also noticed in a previous topic someone mentioned the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 and from my research yes overall the Canon is a better, only just, than the Tamron, but not £1000 better! I am very impressed with what I am reading about Tamron. In terms of quality and performance I am reading that the Tamron fits in between the Canon 24-70 MK1 and the 24-70 MK2.

So I think you get the idea I would like a general purpose lens which is good in low light, f/2.8 is not bad, and one which is more suited to weddings than my 17-40mm. I have read a lot of reviews comparing the Tamron 24-70 to Canon’s and as I have said, the Canon is better than the Tamron but only just and I am very close to buying the Tamron. My dilemma is I love the look of the Canon 135mm f/2, the price is not that much different to the Tamron 24-70. So both are very good lenses but I am not sure which one is best for me right now. I am leaning towards a 24-70mm as it would sit in nicely between my 17-40 and my 70-200, also the fact it is more versatile than the 135mm.

I would appreciate your views on this, thanks!

mackguyver · Jan 14, 2014

I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues with the 2x extenders - both Mark II and Mark III sticking. The locking switch and/or pin sticks on them and prevents the lens mount from locking. This is really disconcerting with thousands of dollars attached to the end of it.

What happens is you twist your lens on until it clicks and all seems good. Then you touch your lens and it begins to twist off the extender or you get an error saying to clean your contacts. Either way, the lens is not secured! The pin/switch move, but I guess it gets stuck around 90% of the way to the full lock position and doesn't lock completely.

I had read that the Mark III was supposed to fix this, but my 300 f/2.8L IS II nearly bit the dust the other night due to this issue. A tiny drop of WD-40 took care of it, but I've never had this issue with the 1.4x Mark II or III and find this really disturbing. Has anyone else had this issue?

JumboShrimp · Jan 14, 2014

DxO has just posted their test of the venerable 17-40/4 L.

Richard8971 · Jan 14, 2014

I had been interested in getting a 1.4x teleconverter for my lenses but I don't own any lenses that are compatible with the Canon brand tele's, so that leaves the A/M ones like the ones made by Tamron. I currently own the EF 70-300L IS USM, EF 100 Macro and 28-135 IS USM. I wanted to try it out using my Canon 7D.

I have a photography friend who owns a Tamron 1.4x MC4 (non pro) and she let me borrow it for the day at a trip to our local zoo. It was overcast so it was going to be a great test to see how well the AF worked in lower light situations. I have to say that I was very impressed with how quickly it locked on focus 99% of the time. Only at full zoom on my 300mm did it hunt on occasion, but even then, it locked in pretty quickly.

I got home and went through the photos and the image quality was incredible. The images were very sharp and detailed.

I did a search and found a used Tamron 1.4x at KEH for 65 bucks. I used it this past weekend and it worked fantastic. It correctly metered the aperture ( I.E. f4 instead of 2.8 ) and worked well with all settings (I.E. Av mode) I couldn't be happier and would recommend getting one if you have been interested.

The extra reach on my zoom was worth the couple of times it had trouble locking on. The way I look at it is that I can always take it off if lighting is really poor or if I can't risk not getting the shot. I also really enjoyed using it on my 100mm macro, it not only gave me a longer working distance from the subject, it had a magnification factor as well that was awesome.

Just FYI in case anyone was interested in getting a 1.4x tele.

D

marcm1 · Jan 13, 2014

Ok awhile back I was shooting in teathered mode to my laptop and while shooting a had a little kid trip on my cord and pulled it at an angle and I think it stretched my plug on my camera because ever since it fits in it loose, my question is, can I attach my camera by way of a hdmi cord to my laptop and will it work the same as the av cord while shooting in teathered mode while in lightroom???

Thanks,

Marc

jalbfb · Jan 13, 2014

Nikon's have a way of shutting out light through the viewfinder via their eye piece. With Canon we have to use the device on the strap, or a piece of gaffers tape. Does Canon or anyone else make an eyepiece for Canon with a similar mechanism as Nikon?

Jay Khaos · Jan 13, 2014

Hey,

I just got a new 35 f2 IS (the newer one from late 2012), and when I mounted it to my 5dIII it felt unusually tight... almost as if there were a rubber gasket between the body and lens or something. I'm sort of afraid to take it off and on now... Is this common with some lenses?

Not sure if this might be relevant, but I've only mounted a few lenses on this body (70-200 2.8, 85L, 24-70 f4 IS, 50mm 1.8) and none of these have given any kind of resistance when trying to mount.

- Jay

sanjosedave · Jan 13, 2014

When I switched to the Manfrotto 057 Magnesium Ball Head with Q5 Quick Release, I expected the droops to go away.

On top of it I use a 6D with 70-200, and sometimes with the 2x.

I was set up this weekend for some countryside landscapes, and had to keep framing higher than the image I wanted because of the continual drooping.

Any thoughts?

JohnDizzo15 · Jan 13, 2014

Over the weekend, I did some thinking about whether or not I wanted to finally invest in an interchangeable lens Fuji body since I have been very pleased with the performance of the x100s.

After reading some generally good reviews on the X-E2, I decided to do some more research and found that there are adapters for EF to X mount (albeit relatively restrictive ones without a ton of functionality).

There are the tilt adapters without aperture control and regular adapters with aperture control via a separate iris in the adapter itself (not the best solution since vignetting appears to be a major problem after the first stop down). For the time being, those look like the primary options available.

The tilt adapters intrigued me the most as I would be able to basically use any of my Canon lenses or even adapted lenses with 8 degrees of tilt albeit with the aperture value preset unless you want to shoot wide open.

To the BH site I went with credit card in hand. I've ordered the all black body along with the 35/1.4 as I figured having at least one native lens right now would be nice. I have also ordered both types of adapters all of which will be arriving by this Friday.

In the meantime, I was curious to know if any of the Canon guys around here have tried adapting lenses to a Fuji body and/or have used a tilting lens adapter before (on any company's body and lens combo). Very curious to find out what types of experiences others are having.

jam3sn · Jan 13, 2014

Hi all,

So I'm about to get my self a canon 600D body, primarily for shooting shorts and corporate videos. So what lens you you recommend, nothing more than £400. I was looking at the 28mm f2.8 IS, but what would you recommend?

Thanks,
James

PKinDenmark · Jan 13, 2014

Dear CR
I am currently making a number of photos for a small competition with the theme:
'Macro Food Photography'
This is for me quite an unusual combination as food-photography usually shows more of a full dish / a meal and maybe some environment in the background as well.

I have worked with a couple of ideas, and would like your view or comments before I decide which ideas / photos to submit. I can submit only two entries.
Idea 1: Small items on a plate - with some background to create ambience (example using f/5.6)
Idea 2: Small items on a plate - getting even closer (example using f/18)
Idea 3: Ingredients - different style - very crisp and dry - 100% sharpness all over (example using f/22)

All three are made with Canon 100mm 2.8 L IS macro. (I like this much - still learning)
Lighting setup based on small incandescent lamps. Steady tripod used.

Any ideas / comments appreciated.

PhilippP74 · Jan 13, 2014

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/sony-to-launch-a-full-frame-black-and-white-sensor-camera/

Seems there is new entry for the black and white digital market: After Leica's wonderful M Monochrom Sony is rumored to present their black & white digital model. After their recent release of the A7 and A7R this sounds really interesting. If you think about this and the rumored pipeline of Canon it's a pretty cool time to be a photogeek

Sith Zombie · Jan 13, 2014

Received an email today from one of Paul C Buffs international suppliers stating that they have stopped stocking the products. Here's an except from the email stating why:

Please see the explanation from Paul C Buff inc, Nashville, USA. below:-

“In order to serve customers located outside of the U.S. and Canada, we pursued
relationships with international companies, allowing them to serve as authorized international dealers. Unfortunately, these relationships have ended as this method of sales was not cost effective and, most importantly, kept us too detached from our customers, prohibiting us from offering the kind of customer support that we strive to provide.

In addition we have have to inform you that from the 31st January 2014 that all future repairs will be handled directly by Paul C Buff inc in the USA with the customer required to pay shipping both ways. Complete details regarding foreign customer product repairs will be posted on the Paul C Buff, Inc. USA website after Jan 1, 2014.”

I'v been on the european website and found that is down too, so it's looks like if you want Paul C Buff stuff outside the U.S then you'll have to order from the U.S site and pay for shipping. Might actually work out cheaper than before though, as the UK prices were pretty crazy!
Anyway, just giving interested people a heads up.

Quasimodo · Jan 13, 2014

Hi.

I wondered if anyone of you had any good tips for how to use tilt shift in all its glory? It should be really introductory (fine if it goes much more advanced to, as long as the lower buildingblocks are present). I tried to go to wikipedia to learn about the Scheimpflug principle, but that explanation would make non-ingenieurs cry blood; and I am not an ingenieur

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle

A week ago I saw a great two hour presentation by the portrait photographer Gregory Heissler, featured on Petapixel. He uses quite a bit of tilt shift in his portraits, and there was this one particularly cool shot that was for the front page of Time Magazine (imho) of Rudy Guiliani on the top of a high building, where he selected focus to get at sharp focus on the Mayor and the Empire state building.

I find these environmental portrait intriguing, and would love to learn how I can use my tilt shift for this kind of photos. Right now my lens is collecting dust, but the reason that I bought it was because it has so many uses. However the learning curve is quite steep, so if anyone can point me in the right direction of a great book, it would be much appreciated.

nda · Jan 13, 2014

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/japan-2013-overall-sales-numbers-sony-dslrslt-presence-shrinks-mirrorless-share-increases/

???

nda · Jan 13, 2014

http://nikonrumors.com/2014/01/12/ces-2014-nikon-captures-3d-model-of-a-person-and-inserts-it-into-a-video-game.aspx/

8)

Dylan777 · Jan 13, 2014

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/first-image-samples-of-the-full-frame-e-mount-mitakon-50mm-f0-95-lens/

jollybdap · Jan 12, 2014

Hi everyone,

I just got a Canon 5D MK III in my hands. What should I check and look out for before the return period expires on me?

Thank you,
Eric

Canon Rumors · Jan 12, 2014

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<p>A patent has been published outlining automatic microadjustment for Canon DSLRs and lenses. This would definitely be a handy feature going forward. Especially if you rent lenses.</p>
<ul>
<li><span>Patent Publication No. 2013-254194</span>
<ul>
<li><span>Publication date 2013.12.19</span></li>
<li><span>Filing date 2012.5.11</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><span>Issues surrounding the AF adjustment</span>
<ul>
<li><span>The looseness of the phase difference AF sensor, because the AF accuracy is worse, need AF adjustment</span></li>
<li><span>It is not done correctly the AF adjustment in your environment</span></li>
<li><span>Necessary facilities such as service center</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/tag/Canon"><span>Canon</span></a><span> patents</span>
<ul>
<li><span>Automation of the AF adjustment</span></li>
<li><span>Procedure</span>
<ul>
<li><span>Let me be the difference adjusted value of the phase difference AF and contrast AF</span></li>
<li><span>To determine the reliability</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-01-13" target="_blank">EG</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

slclick · Jan 12, 2014

I do not own either of these lenses but a Canon Tilt Shift is in my wishlist following an MP-E 65.

I frequently read about the 45 and 90 TS lenses needing a refresh. However any of the reputable reviews out there (Bryan, Roger etc) remark how outstanding the build, optics and sharpness are. True these are some of the oldest lenses in the Canon current production lineup, but is age alone enough reason to desire a refresh AND the price bump that surely will come along with it?

I'd like to hear from those who have used them/own them about what they would like to see changed.

Thx

Gas am · Jan 12, 2014

Previous threads on dead pixels are too old for replies it would seem. So here's a new one

I have just bought an EOS 700d. Amazon delivered and all seemed well with the camera until I tried a long exposure. At 15 secs I get stuck/ dead pixel in a corner.
Amazon replaced the camera immediately. The replacement was worse. There is a cluster of dead pixels and several red and blue pixels. Amazon have again been very understanding and have dispatched a third body to me.
I called canon UK and they told me that they had no known issues with the 700d and that they were not prepared to listen to Internet forum talk of sensor issues. They would of corse repair the camera if it was faulty, under its warrantee. But the canon rep told me that the sensors have 99.99% effective pixels. Does this mean that canon would accept 1,800 defective pixels. If the rep meant 99.9999% then this would still mean 18 dead pixels.
The 3rd replacement will arrive tomorrow. If this is faulty, what should I do?
As I have yet to return any of the cameras, should I keep the best one and send it to canon for inspection/ repair? Should I accept bad pixels from new? My photos do include lots of long exposures, so accepting defects from new seems to be wrong. Am I being unrealistic?
Any help would be muchly appreciated )

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