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Lose or Loose?

Many of us English monoglots admire greatly the non-English speakers' ability to write in our language. There is one misspelling, however, that is becoming the norm in CR: loose for lose. "Loose", with two os means the opposite of tight. E.g., my lens cap is loose and sometimes falls off. The verb you use when you can't find something is "lose", with one o. E.g., I will lose my lens cap if it becomes loose and falls off.

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Limited Edition PowerShot Cameras Coming

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<p><strong>Canon testing a niche market?

</strong>Canon will soon be launching very limited edition Canon PowerShot S120 and PowerShot G16 cameras for the collector. You’re going to be able to choose colors, have the cameras engraved and you will get special accessories and packaging.</p>
<p>Advanced orders will begin on October 30, 2013 via the Canon eStore.</p>
<p>Pricing for the cameras are a bit higher than normal, the S120 will be around $560 USD and the G16 in the $700 range. That pricing is based on todays Yen to USD conversion</p>
<div id="attachment_14522" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 585px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/PowerShot_PREMIUM_BOX_03.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-14522" alt="Canon PowerShot S120 & G16 Limited Edition Cameras" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/PowerShot_PREMIUM_BOX_03-575x383.jpg" width="575" height="383" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">. Canon PowerShot S120 & G16 Limited Edition Cameras</p></div>
<p><strong>Source [<a href="http://akihabaranews.com/2013/10/15/article-en/canon-make-your-own-customized-premium-powershot-995476842" target="_blank">AK</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Underwater Housing for 5DMKII (Kickstarter/Indiegogo?)

Hello All,

I've read all the topics and threads including all the replies on a decent, budget underwater SLR housing, but had this quick question.

I saw a few months back about a Kickstarter or Indiegogo project to sponsor a new company to build a housing in the $200-300 range with the ports an extra cost depending on the lens. I'm sure since then, they've been very successful at their product as it looks like the $3K housing, but way cheaper.

Just curious, did anybody come across this? Any feedback or comments are welcomed.

Planning on stopping by Balmorhea, TX in January. ;)

Thanks,
Tp

First time photographing a skateboarder, need feedback

A local magazine that I often shoot for asked me to photograph this kid who skateboarded. I'm not very big into sports photography and was looking for some critiquing of my work. I was shooting with a Canon 5D MKII and a 17-40mm and 50mm 1.8. I tried to get as close to the guy as possible shooting as wide as possible to get some cool distortion. Was going to use a flash setup up but the sun overpowered my single Yongnuo YN-560 II. I was shooting at f/11 at about 1/800th at iso 800 because I really wanted to freeze the action and the autofocus system on the 5D needs as much leeway for depth of field. I would love some feedback if possible and maybe some advice as I would really like to photograph more skateboarders as I find it very interesting.

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Bought Sigma 35mm 1.4, bad copies?

Hi, so recently I purchased a Sigma 35mm 1.4 Art lens for Canon. Definitely seemed like a sharp copy, but I noticed that it started to make a high pitched squeak while focusing towards infinity occasionally. Initially hard to replicate, it now makes the noise consistently.

Because of this, I decided to buy another copy which came in today. Also sharp and doesn't squeak, but it does sound louder than the first copy. Also when comparing the focusing between the two copies with the lens cap on, the second copy seems to be much faster.

I know the first Sigma is bad because of the squeak, but what do you think about the second one? Is it normal, or should I try for a third one?

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6D sensor dust in one month?

Hi,

I would be grateful for some advice regarding sensor dust on my new 6D. The 6D was purchased five weeks ago and I have only put on a 35mm f/2 IS USM lens (no lens changes since). The camera was used on holiday for a mixture of photos and video. However, I was somewhat disappointed to find that the videos taken on holiday are showing two very noticeable dust spots dead centre of the frame. Photos taken today of the grey sky at f/8 and above show 4 spots.

I understand that dust is a fact of life with photography (and have suffered this problem with a G9) but should I expect this problem 'out of the box' and when then camera has been kept in a top loading case?

I have experience of using the Sensor Swab / Eclipse method when I owned a 30D. Since the 30D my 40D and then 650D haven't needed any sensor cleaning. Is the 6D more susceptible to sensor dust or is the dust shaker less effective than APS-C cameras? I am an amateur and am beginning to feel the 6D is perhaps overkill for me for the time being.

My options are either to return the camera to Canon for a free clean under warranty (10 working day turnaround), try cleaning it myself or accept that my 6D may just be a dirty camera.

Many thanks,


Martyn

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To Kit or Not to Kit

Just curious about other people's experience/thoughts.

Everyone knows that the best deal from traditional retailers like B&H and Adorama is to buy the 24-105 mm "L" kitted with either a 6D or 5DIII.

But, lately, I've noticed that the bargain dealers on eBay often run specials selling the white box lenses and the 6D or 5DIII separately for less than what they offer the body and lens kits for (or at least that's what the math seems to be to me when I compare prices).

I get why retailers would split the kits and sell them separately to make a bit more profit, but I would think they would be just as happy to offer the same discount for the unbroken kit, yet I'm not seeing that. Anyone else getting that impression and any suggestions why that might be?

If you bought a full frame recently, did you buy it as a kit or separately?

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1st timer tot he boards need advice

I’m sorry if this sounds lame; however, I’m just stuck on my decision. Have the 70D with 18-135stm and the 10-22. I’m planning a trip to Disney in Jan and would like to have a smaller walk around than the 18-135. I like the 50 1.4 and have shot with a loaner before; however, I’m afraid it will be a little long inside with the family and candid shots indoors. The newer 35 IS USM looks like it might cover well in those situations; however, don’t know if the cost is worth it. Only been shooting heavily about a year and would like the experience of the elders. I plan on getting both, just not both before Jan. Any advice?

Or is there another normal to mild wide people would recomend that would be good outside and in? Tyring to stay under $600.

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Official: Sigma 24-105mm f/4 DG OS

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<strong>Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS Art


</strong>Sigma has officially shown the new 24-105mm f/4 DG OS Art series lens.</p>
<p><strong>From Sigma


</strong>Access the full power of your camera’s image sensor. This new zoom fulfills Sigma’s uncompromising pursuit of high resolution.</p>
<div id="attachment_14513" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 141px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/sigma24105specs.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-14513" alt="Specs - Click for larger" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/sigma24105specs-131x150.jpg" width="131" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Specs – Click for larger</p></div>
<p>The image sensors of digital SLR cameras continue to offer higher and higher resolution, and photographers are looking for high-performance lenses that leverage these sensors’ full power. In the case of zoom lenses as well, which are a dependable go-to in a wide variety of photographic conditions, photographers want convenience combined with exceptional optical performance. The new SIGMA 24-105mm F4 DG OS HSM zoom lens more than fulfills these requirements, offering exceptionally stable high resolution from wide-angle to medium telephoto photography.</p>
<p>While featuring a large-aperture 82mm filter size, this lens minimizes optical aberrations and avoids reduced peripheral brightness, an issue that tends to affect lenses with similar specifications. Each lens is checked with Sigma’s proprietary A1 MTF (modulation transfer function) measuring system to ensure it offers exceptional quality for the high-megapixel era. Try this new high-performance zoom for yourself, and experience Sigma’s uncompromising pursuit of high resolution.</p>
<p>The full realization of the Art product concept for you to hold in your own hands and appreciate with your own eyes.</p>
<div id="attachment_14516" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/sigma24105mtf.jpg"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-14516" alt="MTF - Click for Larger" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/sigma24105mtf-150x77.jpg" width="150" height="77" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">MTF – Click for Larger</p></div>
<p>Designed with a focus on sophisticated optical performance and tremendous expressive power, our new Art line of lenses delivers top-level image quality. With unsurpassed expressive performance, these lenses reach the high standards demanded by photographers with an artistic, creative inclination. Along with landscapes, portraits, still-life, close-up and casual snaps, they’re perfect for the kind of photography that unleashes the inner artist. Ideal for studio photography, they offer just as much expressive scope when capturing architecture, starry skies, underwater shots and many other scenes. Hold it in your own hands and appreciate it with your own eyes.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.sigma-global.com/en/lenses/cas/product/art/a_24_105_4/" target="_blank">See the Sigma 24-105mm f/4 DG OS</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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PPA and Insurance

Ok.... So here's my conundrum... I work with a large agency doing professional photography, as well as portrait photography on the side... I currently work around 60-80 hours a week and it's very taxing... i currently get my insurance and benefits from the agency i'm with. I was approached by another individual to start our own agency... potentially a lot more money, freedom, and get to do what i like to do when I want to do it, and no more 60-80 hours a week working... sounds great right? Well while all the logistics is fairly reasonable and we are ironing everything out, the one thing that could be a big monkey wrench is healthcare, especially with the new obamacare rules and regs. so... we were looking at options and from what we can see from the "marketplace" the insurances are outrageous in premiums, no where near what we are paying now, but what can we do. We saw that as a benefit of the PPA, professional photographers of america, they have access to a broker who does insurance. Has anyone used them? Are they cheaper than other options? Although i shoot professionally, i've never seen a need or a desire to join the PPA as i find that it's mostly pomp and circumstance and gladhanding and such. I find selling a picture more rewarding than winning an award from some competition judged by people i dont know using rules that may be questionable with agendas up the wazoo... BUT... if their insurance is worth the cost of yearly membership and such, maybe it could be an option. Have any of you guys tried this out? I would be interested in hearing your opinions. Thanks

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NEW - Sony FF mirrorless cameras + new lenses to support

WOW....This is the moment I been waiting for ::) ::) ::)

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/

If the body is same or slightly bigger than RX1, I'M ALL IN.

My wish list:
1. A7 or A7R?
2. 55mm f1.8
3. 14,16 or 17mm
4. 85mm

Will sell some of my Canon gear to get the list above ??? :( ::) :) ;D ;D

Anyone?

Edit: I want one NOW :o

Edit: Final answer is A7 + Zeiss 50mm f1.8

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"Downgrading" for a very specific reason

Soo....I've been shooting a lot with 5D MK2 and now two MK3 and overall these are fantastic cameras, especially the mark 3 with exceptional performance all categories.

However recently I was playing around with an old-timer, the 1D Mark 3 (a CPS loaner) and I just realized ...man...these files are just gorgeous! Sure, they are only 10 Mp and the ISO performance is nowhere near the 5D3 but the colors, tonality and overall balance make these files, in my opinion, much more pleasing than the 5D2/5D3. Now, the 5D3 is noticably “better” than 5D2 in this area but even so...the 1D colors seem to pop more with a "glow" and the files respond better in post. And they also have a film-like character which I really REALLY like...

I'm actually considering trading one of my 5D Mark 3’s in for a fullframe 1Ds3 if that one is on par (or even better) than the 1D Mark 3 in terms of color, tonality and general character. I know it's crazy. It's an old camera and the LCD is crap but that's what my heart tells me. And I will still have one 5D Mark 3 for low light work anyway so...

Is the 1D series files better balanced than the 5D2/3 series? To me, the difference seems quite dramatic. I guess you don't ONLY get a better body and faster FPS for that huge amount of extra money you need to cough up for the 1D cameras.

Also, regarding colors....it is often said that anything can be done in post and yes, I can make my 5D3 files come closer to the 1D3 output but it takes time and I can't afford that.

Any thoughts?

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Questions on EF 24-70mm II on 5D Mk3 vs EF-S 17-55mm on 7D

Hello experts,

I currently shoot dual cameras with both 5D MkIII and 7D and the following zooms that I usually carry around during my sessions:
- EF 16-35mmII
- EF 70-200mm IS II
- EF-S 17-55mm
- EF 35mm 1.4

I currently do not have 24-70mmII. However, I have just pulled the trigger on purchasing the EF 24-70mmII and now contemplating if I am making a wrong move here.

Does anybody know if EF24-70mm on the 5DIII would be better than the EF-S 17-55mm on the 7D? I usually deal with family related photos such as portraits, birthdays, cake smashing events etc. Most of the time, I have good lighting except for several indoor events which off camera flash will take care off.

Should I be returning the EF24-70mmII and just stick with all the lenses that I already have and normally work with? Is there an advantage of using the EF24-70mmII on the 5DIII over the EF-S 17-55mm on the 7D?

Thanks in advance!

A recent video favour..

I do video work full time, occassionally I do some freelance work, very very occassionally I do some free work if it is for a cause I can identify with or empathize with.

This was one such cause. Only DSLR content is really the interview, the stills were provided and I did the rostrum effect stuff in after effects.

Top Tip for budding film-makers, if you visit www.mobygratis.com and ask very nicely, Moby will let you use some of his music for non-profit ends.

Anyway, here's the film. Be warned, it's quite emotional.

http://youtu.be/VEavX8CTEKM

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Original boxes - to keep or not to keep? That is the question.

I wanted to get some views on the forum about whether there is much benefit in keeping original packaging - mainly with a view to influencing resale value.

For lenses, these are unlikely to get sold, as they have a much longer period from purchase to replacement, but that is generally less true for bodies. As a result, my thinking is that there may be some benefit in keeping the original boxes from bodies, but not from lenses.

Any thoughts?

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Haze filter - will it cut though the smog?

At risk of stirring up controversy ...

Earlier in the summer, I went out onto the Greenway in East London and took some photos of the city skyline some miles away. I was using my cheap second hand stop-gap Vivitar 70-300mm, and the skyscrapers on the horizon were somewhat hazy. When I get back to base in the week, I can post an example.

Is this because I'm using a cheap rubbish lens? Or would a haze filter live up to it's name and cut through the haze? Or is the city smog unavoidable?

If anyone can advise from their own experience, it will save me from gambling on the purchase of a filter that may not help, and put the money towards the next new lens. I understand from elsewhere that UV filters are not relevant for digital sensors, as they were for film.

Conditions were clear (so I thought) and the sun was shining. I don't usually use UV or protection filters - though when I invest in my first expensive L lens, I will get a protect (not UV) filter to complete the weatherproofing. I am unclear about the difference between a haze filter, haze/UV filter, and UV filter - are they the same, or is a haze filter different?

Apologies for the flurry of questions. I didn't know if the answers will cut through the haze in my mind, or add to the confusion.

Filter

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