I accidentally opened the CF card door on my 5D3 while formatting the card and now it won't read or reformat. Any tips on fixing this, or did I just nuke my card for good? There is no data as I was formatting it anyway, but it's a 16GB card I'd rather not buy again. Thanks!

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Samyang-24mm-f-3.5-Tilt-Shift-Lens-Review.aspx

While I'm sure that marketing can put the right spin on this statement to make it factual even without the word "may" being included, but that word shows some wishful thinking. And from an image quality perspective, wishful is about as far as this lens goes – unless you stop down to at least f/5.6 or f/8.

With a wide open aperture, the Samyang 24mm f/3.5 Tilt-Shift Lens delivers blurry image quality. It's just ugly. Do not plan on using this lens at any aperture wider than f/5.6, or better yet, f/8 (especially for full frame corners image quality). Use the "Image Quality" tool link at the top of this page to see the lab test results for yourself.

Click to expand...

???

over 900 euro and such a bad image quality?

Hi !

I used to have a 150mm (short telephoto) leaf shutter lens for my Mamiya 645. It was amazing - i could sync my fill flash outdoors at wide apertures and long distances.

Why don't Canon make such lenses ? They can't be any more specialist than Canon PC lenses and great for fashion / outdoor portrait work.

Any ideas ?

So I've been holding out for a 70D or 7D2 for over a year now and have finally hit my limit on patience. I have 2 camping trips later this year and a trip to the NYC area next week and really would love a new body for them. Now, I'm looking at things a bit unconventionally; Fuji X-E1 or a used 7D body. I'm wanting a smaller body at some point for day-to-day shooting, but I will also be needing a more professional body for when I want to be more serious about what I'm doing, so each fills their respective needs. No switching; I have too much glass for me to leave Canon altogether, but I do want that second, smaller body too.

Note that this is only a serious hobby, I do not, nor do I intend to make money with either body.

so...since I am short on time and can only afford one at the moment, do I buy the X-E1 for my casual shooting (which I do less of and will only have kit glass for), or do I get the 7D body that I'll end up trading at a loss in a year (or 5 at the rate Canon is going)? opinions?

I would greatly appreciate if someone knows it there is a company that makes good lens hoods for L glass.

Most of the time i use the 85mm 1.2L II with 1DX and they are both great looking products but the lens hoid on the 85mm is hideous!! And it feels really cheap.

Many lens hoods look and feel good but not this one. I like the hoods on TS-E24mm 3.5 II, 70-200 2.8 is II, 24-70 II, 35mm 1.4.

I dont know why this bugs me so much but i'm embarrased to be seen with the lens hood on the lens.

Is there a company that makes them??
I would rather make one myself out of silly putty than use this one.

Thanks.

Although I am a professional DOP working on RED, Alexia etc, I now am doing a job for the first time on DSLR and have so many questions and need all the help you all can provide. Please help!

The gear available to me:
5d3, 1dx
Zeiss 14 2.8, Zeiss 35 f1.4, Zeiss 135 f2 (on its way)
Fluid head tripod.
Lexar 1000x 32gb UDMA 7 card
A three year old Imac for editing.

Nature of job and crew:
I will be going to small villages and shoot lifestyles of people as artistically as I can. Mostly decent light, occasionally low light.
I will shoot lots of interviews with audio.
I have a focus puller and lighting assistant.

I want efficient frill free equipment that does the job. However, keeping gear light is not the first requirement, getting professional output is.

The edited videos will be viewed mostly on internet and at times projected on a mid size screen.

My questions:
1. Do I need another monitor besides the LCD on the camera to check focus etc?
2. Which is the best slider for price for DSLR?
3. Which is the best way to record audio? Do I record on camera or external recorder and sync using a slate? I have a BeachTek DXA-SLR available for free. Is it any good?
4. Should I use Magic Lantern software or original Canon RAW? If magic lantern, then which version?
5. What is the ideal ISO for video? And if not ideal, what is the acceptable range for noise free work.
6. Is 1/50 the only shutter speed to work at or it does not matter?
7. Will my Imac be ok for the edit? I will not buy an Imac now until it is refreshed, but just want to prepare myself on the speed of edit.

ANY help is appreciated sincerely.

Thank you!

I haven't posted in awhile but I thought I would post up my most recent work. This event was shot with my 5D on my jib with a motorized head while all of the pans and dolly shots were shot with the C100. Some people would say why not put the C100 on the jib but it will slow down my workflow and just cause alot of setup and breakdown time and plus I can also shoot 60fps on the MK3 which I cannot on the C100. The footage cuts very well together after sharpening the MK3 footage. Check it out!!
Nickelsvision | Wekfest Long Beach 2013 | A Video About Cars

This summer I'm doing a lot of photography-focused backpacking in mountains and forests. My primary considerations for choosing gear are handheld IQ, weight & pack space, and preference for weather sealing (when possible/practical). So far, I'm just about set on taking a 6D, 17-40L, 100L macro, and nifty fifty. Something tells me I'm going to need an option for more reach (animals), but the 400mm 5.6 available to me seems out of the question due to size. In the past I've used a 70-200 f/4 non-IS, but that was on a 7D.

Appealing to this forum's collective knowledge and experience, my question is whether I can get a 300mm+ lens weighing less than 800 grams that will beat the IQ of just cropping photos from the 100L. Or should I try and make do with the 70-200? Any thoughts? Thank you!

The bottom rung on the Canon DSLR ladder. Does anyone other than myself use one?

I have a Canon 5DIII and a Canon 600EX-RT and am using a 24-105L. I’m trying to take flash pictures of a backlit subject and bounce the flash of the ceiling. When I do this using full-auto the subject is exposed perfectly. When I try to take the same picture with the P (Program) setting , the subject comes out completely underexposed. I then tried hitting the mn-funtion button because I am told this will expose correctly for the center of the frame (no indication of any setting being saved in the viewfinder). No good, still completely under exposed. I tried sport metering, still under exposed. If I don’t bounce the flash the exposures are consistent between program and auto. I tried an old 580 flash and have the same problem so I know there is nothing wrong with the flash. My Question is why can’t I take pictures of backlit subjects and bounce the flash off the celling. Works great in Auto, terribly backlit of program mode.

If you could only have three lenses to shoot video AND general photography on FF cameras, (including sports, portraiture with or without flash, macro, etc.), which would you choose?

Base on my limited experience, I would probably go with the Tamron 24-70 VC, Canon 70-200 IS II and Canon 50 f/1.2. Why the Tamron instead of the Canon 24-70 II? I've used both briefly and although the Canon produces sharper images, the Tamron comes pretty close, especially in the center, and also has VC; throw on some extension tubing and you've got yourself a decent macro lens. The Canon 70-200 is an obvious choice for most of the above purposes, and is the sharpest zoom in the range; combined with a TC, you've got yourself a highly versatile, but heavy piece of glass. Lastly, the 50 f/1.2 is the fastest in the current L lineup and is an alright general walk-around lens, but is really meant to be shot wide open; I would use this mostly for low light photography when I just don't want to carry around a big, heavy zoom and/or flash.

What about you?

I know this is pointless but I had a thought, If the 7D2 is as we think i.e looks the same, feels the same, works the same has a few bells and whistles added but..has a 5D3 or similar autofocus, a one or two stop advantage over the current one and is low 20s million pixels, that moves it into 1D4 territory. I have a 1D4 and sold my 7D as it didnt cut it in low light. If the new one, when it rears its head, is as many think it may be, will it replace a good few 1D4's? Id punt for one for sure. Basically a 5D3 that has a crop sensor and shoots faster. And no, I will never get rid of the 4, it will sit alongside it like my 1DS3, a camera so beat up it looks like ive used it for DIY when I lost my big hammer but still works %100 fine.

My 1dsMKII was fine I din't change anything and then I got this problems with the black vertical lines.

.
Any ideas why this happened?

Shooting yesterday in bright sun, lot of contrast between people in shade under portable shelters and sunny backgrounds. So I was using a 270EX II for fill flash (hi-speed synch). I didn't shoot a lot, fewer than 100 pictures over three hours.

Before starting, I tested batteries. I have some AA lithium batteries I bought years ago (2021 expiration date) so I'm using them until they run out. The two in the flash had been used previously (perhaps 25 shots), and when I tested them yesterday morning on a load meter, they were both 100%. Eneloop backups I brought along also tested 100%.

Two hours into the morning, the flash stopped working. I took the batteries out, very hot. I put Eneloops in and continued on with no problem. When I got home, here's what I found:

Lithium one: 80% on load tester and 1.51 on voltmeter
Lithium two: 20% (red) on load tester and 0.97 on voltmeter

Eneloops: Both still at 100% although they probably weren't in for more than 20 shots.

I don't think I've ever seen one battery in a pair fail. Battery issue? Flash issue?

I'll keep monitoring it. I especially want to see what happens to the Eneloops over time -- this is first I've used them. If one of them goes to 20% in service and the other doesn't, that will tell me something.

I am sure many of you in the USA already have an account with Canon USA and are aware of the benefits of registering your Canon equipment with them. However, I recently helped a fried to join and register his cameras, lenses, printer, and scanner. Once he registered his cameras, he immediately received emails listing the latest firmware updates for several of his DSLRs that he didn't know were out yet! Having this instant notification of firmware and other technical updates, makes having to search the web every so often totally unnecessary! Additionally, you can select other services, such as receiving their Newsletter, product announcements, etc. also, you get 10 GB of free image storage on their Image Gateway program. You also receive discounts through the Canon Store if you take the time to answer all the questionairs for your products.

https://b2cweb.usa.canon.com/b2cweb/view/login.jsf?TYPE=33554432&REALMOID=06-979697ef-63e3-49da-a97f-795f9d794fcc&GUID=1&SMAUTHREASON=0&METHOD=GET&SMAGENTNAME=-SM-SPnuJLVI%2b1NhU8q9X4JtIpqiRboYEqM49iCkDfu%2f0b2E%2fzveqSpO4UF3UH%2fdXG9X&TARGET=-SM-http%3a%2f%2fb2cweb%2eusa%2ecanon%2ecom%2fb2cweb%2fview%2fmyAccountHome%2ejsf

I'll be tagging along with my spouse on a business trip to Whitby, England for a few weeks this summer and would appreciate any input from folks familiar with the area on "can't miss" photographic venues in and around Whitby. If you have any images you'd like to share, please do! Thanks in advance.

I'm aiming for a career within people photography (portraiture of various kinds in-/outdoors, the occasional wedding etc.) and wonder which lens(es) to get next. I will also be photographing food, architecture, lanscape, products etc. but people photography will be my main thing. My gear so far:

- Canon 50D (hoping to upgrade to full-frame, most likely a 5D III)
- Canon 70-200 f/4L (great IQ though with a crop body I seldom use it)
- Canon 35 f/2
- Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.5

The Sigma is getting pretty worn and I don't particularly like it, which means I'm looking for a "bread & butter" zoom for general use. I'm considering the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L II, Canon 24-105 f/4L and possibly a 50mm f/1.4 (I'm leaning towards the Sigma instead of Canon because it just seems better built and I hear it also gives a better result whenever copies of it don't have focusing issues) for shallow DOF/low light shots.
To make choices even more difficult there's Canon's 24-70 f4L, Sigma's 24-70 and Tamron's 24-70 (with IS). I can get the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L II at a special price now, and I have a feeling that despite the missing IS and the missing added reach which the 24-105 has that this is a "keeper" and something which can boost the quality of my shots. The Tamron seems like a good buy on paper but I'm skeptical towards the brand itself and having tried it I don't like the reverse zoom compared to Canon's lenses and the placement of the focus ring. I don't know enough about Sigma's 24-70 but have heard a lot of good stuff about the Canon.
My 35mm f/2 is OK, but feels cheap and not very inspirational although I'm beginning to like the idea of prime lenses more and more, which is why I'm also considering a 50mm of some sort in addition to a general/use for everything "bread & butter" zoom (I'm ruling out Canon 50mm f/1.8 as that would be similar to my 35mm in build quality, and also the f/1.2L version because of the price).

So, would it be a good decision to go for the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L II and possibly also the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 in addition (or leave out the 50mm for the time being), or would you go for the 24-105 and 50mm as well as possibly other primes, or something entirely different?

Oh, I'm working on my flash photography skills, so although I do like natural light I'm not one of those "I only use natural light" photographers and hence don't feel the need to go with fast, expensive lenses all the way.

i've been stuffing around for years trying to find the right comb for landscape adventures, not to heavy but still able to carry my best gear what to bring? what not to bring? always a compromise with weight and gear> sooo i've settling on this combo>>>

Besides how often does one get to post a photo of a Polynesian fire dancer performing in a North Dakota Arikara earth lodge?

Canon 7d, Tamron 18-270, 1 second exposure, f16, ISO 1600, Speedlite 430 EX

Is there any trick to make 5D Mark III's in-camera CA correction support 3rd party lens such as Sigma 35? Sigma 35 is definitely a nice lens, except with very strong chromatic aberration when shot at large apertures.
Lightroom isn't function very well either... and it would be more helpful if this can be applied to jpg directly

I thought my fellow canon rumor buddies may be interested in this article I just read...
http://www.technewsdaily.com/18220-graphene-imagining-sensor-takes-clear-pictures.html

https://vimeo.com/67422760

My brother and I spent last weekend camping in Big Sur as well as testing out the Magic Lantern hack on my 5D. Give it a look!

I'm currently in Paris on holiday armed with practically my full kit of lenses (see below) - we are planning on going to Versailles tomorrow (Sunday) and I've stumbled across the access rules which appear to suggest that bags and such have to be left in the cloakrooms before entering the palace, but they won't accept photography equipment left in the cloakrooms, I'm guessing for security/theft reasons - has anyone visited and could clarify the situation, as I'd like to take my kit bag or at least my small rucksack with at least the 24-70 for the gardens and the 16-35 for the interiors - but don't want to be caught out by the rules. I would just carry the 6D and a single lens, but would prefer the flexibility of the 16-35, 24-70 & 135

I'm thinking as a one stop lens the 24-70 would work best, but would the 16-35 better suit the interiors ? Thoughts ?

Hi,

I need a flash that will take over 2000 continuous non-stop shots. I take pictures of books for research. I am a grad student in history.

Can someone please tell me the best and cheapest flash I need?

I've been using a 5DMKIII for several months now keeping my MKII as a backup. I've found AFMA has sometimes made a significant difference with the MKII and certain lenses like my 135 f2L (+8). I've put a couple of my most used lenses through the AFMA procedure that Neuroanatomist described http://bit.ly/14ii3An using a SpyderCal target and have noticed a very minor adjustment was 'needed', if at all (+2 or so on a 70-200 2.8 IS II and a 24-70 2.8 II).

After buying a new 85 1.2 II I tried doing the AFMA process I found that whenever I made any + or - adjustments the focus results were off and relatively inconsistent in a illogically maddening sort of way (10+ shots at -5, -3, -1, +1, +3, etc.) and that the neutral 0 position actually produced the most consistent in-focus results (not front or back focusing too much). I was pleasantly surprised and wondered if the AF system in the MKIII is that good?! So far most of the shots I've taken with the 85 1.2 (when focus hits what I want) have been wicked sharp at 1.2-1.6, which is great.

Anyone else noticed a similar (awesome!) phenomenon with a 5D MKIII? Did I just get super lucky with lens and body combo? The body just came back from CPS for a multi-controller button replacement (and all tuned up with newest firmware) and the lens is brand new.

Photo of a friend with focus on left eye taken from 4 or 5 feet away http://sdrv.ms/17dVD9V

Focus on orange slice http://sdrv.ms/17dVTG9