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Which Lens ... 24-70 II or primes?

Hi CR folks,

I've run into a very serious dilemma and need your help on this. I am having a hard time in choosing between the 24-70 2.8L II and a combo of 24mm 1.4L II and the 35mm 1.4L.

I have shot with the 24-70 II recently and was very impressed with the IQ and was considering the zoom but lately I have been considering the primes as well.

BTW, I'm a hobbyist and usually I shoot images of my family / children and landscapes. The images are usually taken after I'm back from work so its mostly in low light situations.

What do you guys suggest?

PS: Budget is not really an issue because I can pick up the 24-70 II right now or I could get the 24 f/1.4 now and the 35 f/1.4 in a few months.

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Any astrophotographers out there?

I was hoping I could get some advice regarding using a camera for astrophotography. Any advice is greatly appreciated!! I am not looking for exceptional pictures of nebulas, but something that can take pictures of some of the larger planets and the moon.

Unfortunately, my budget is rather limited. As much as I would love a star tracking telescope system, I am hoping to settle for a dobsonian reflector.

What I am looking at is as follows:
Orion SkyQuest XT8 - F/5.9 @ 1200mm (build a scope version)
Orion 2" low profile focuser
Canon T-mount adapter and Orion 2" Zero-Profile Prime Focus Camera Adapter
And a kit of 2" eyepieces for when I want to do viewing rather than imaging

I read that refractors are considerably better for astrophotography, but ouch are they expensive. I am always open to suggestions though!

I am hoping to get into astrophography, but fear spending money on a system that isnt compatible or wont give good results at all (I have heard focusing issues is a common problem).

Thanks! Feel free to post pictures you have taken or of the setup you use to photograph the night sky!

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Vertical Banding on videos with 6D in Video Mode

Hey everyone,

Long time lurker, first time poster here. I recently purchased a 6D about 4 weeks ago and really love it. I'm getting great still images out of the camera with no problems. In video mode it's an entirely different story... I'm getting some pretty egregious vertical banding on my videos. Even with the ISO set fairly low (400-640) I am getting it. Is this normal? I used to shoot a lot of video with my old 5D mkII and I never experienced this issue. It seems it's at it's worst in low light. I can deal with some noise in low light, but vertical banding is a deal breaker for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I've tried uploading clips of the banding onto vimeo, but it looks like when vimeo compresses the video the banding just gets crushed. It's plain as day in Quicktime and Premiere.

Here are the videos any way... It's especially bad on the black hat, and when I'm shooting my wife's jewelry you can see it coming through in the floor. Please excuse the shaky cam, I recorded the clips with my nifty fifty wide open at 640 ISO, 23.97fps, technicolor cinestyle. The problem is even persistent on my 85L, and 24-105L.

EDIT: Can't get the videos to embed, but they work if you just click the title below the frame.

Canon 6D Vertical Banding Video 1 on Vimeo

Canon 6D Vertical Banding Video 2 on Vimeo

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Made the switch to 5DM3 and love it

I was a happy camper with my 7D for almost 3 1/2 yrs(pre-ordered it as soon it was announced). Recently made the switch and picked up a 5DM3 and have to say I just love it. I read quite a few posts where people said how good it was to make the switch.. but it doesn't sink in until you actually hold the thing in your hand and shoot a few.

got a chance to use cover a colorful event here in Redmond and some of the first few shots from my new 5DM3 are below.

http://www.akraj.com/Events/Festival-of-Colors/28843468_J9SQmq#!i=2449733333&k=WkGWcWH

everything about this camera feels pretty snappy..

I went back to my 7D to use the crop factor on my 70-300, but it didn't feel right..

I've been a long time reader on this forum and want to thank everyone for the the wealth of info I've gained here.

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Charge new LP-E6 batter over night?

Hey everyone. I just ordered the 6D (not here 'till tomorrow) and I was wondering about something. I know some cameras come with drained batteries already, but what about the 6D? Should I use the charge it has (if any) until it dies, THEN charge.. OR should I take the battery from the beginning, no matter what charge it has, and charge it over night. Hopefully someone can send some help my way. Thanks!

Boa Constrictor - up close and personal - C&C please

I got into photography via my love of reptiles. This is a little male Boa Constrictor that I produced, sold, and finally shipped out today. I snapped a few pics before packaging him up and I liked a couple of them and I thought I'd share them and request a little C&C on the first.

FYI, proper color representation is ABSOLUTELY PARAMOUNT in the boa market so altering the colors into something that is not consistent with the look of the animal is absolutely NOT an option. So, I'm looking more for C&C related to composition or any PP'ing that would fall within very strict ethical boundaries.

IMG_1863.JPG


These last two are just more for fun than anything else.

Macro shot
IMG_1908.JPG


100% crop of the image above...
IMG_1908crop.JPG


Thanks!

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The Blackmagic Production Camera 4K

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<strong>An EF mount 4K cinema camera


</strong>For the second year in a row, the biggest buzz from the show has come from Blackmagic Design (you’re a close second <a href="http://www.freeflysystems.com/" target="_blank">Freefly</a>).</p>
<p>Last year they launched a 2.5K cinema camera that has been plagued with availability issues. People that have got their hands on one seem to genuinely like the camera. Although there are still a lot of people that have been frustrated by their inability to get one.</p>
<p>This year Blackmagic Design launched two new cameras, a compact cinema camera for $995 and the very exciting<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/964119-REG/blackmagic_design_blackmagic_production_camera_4k.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank"> 4K camera for under $4000</a>. The camera itself has a Super 35 sensor and has a global shutter, which eliminates the rolling shutter frustration.</p>
<p><strong>From Blackmagic Design

</strong><em>“Shoot Ultra HD TV or 4K feature films with the new Blackmagic Production Camera 4K. You get a large Super 35 size sensor with professional global shutter combined with precision EF mount optics, high quality visually lossless compressed CinemaDNG RAW and Apple ProRes 422 (HQ)™ file recording for a complete self contained solution. The built in touchscreen lets you monitor, change settings and enter metadata directly on the camera!”</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p>I spent a half an hour or so with Blackmagic Design along with my friend Mitch from <a href="http://www.planet5d.com" target="_blank">Planet5D</a>. It was a good talk and has changed my view of Blackmagic Design and how successful I think they can be.</p>
<p>First up, the production issues of the first camera. The company feels those are behind them, they’ve learned a lot from the issues. The first camera had issues with sensor production, one of the only a handful of parts inside the camera that Blackmagic Design doesn’t manufacture themselves. For the last year, they have had an abundance of camera bodies without sensors inside them. The new sensor comes from a new supplier and they’ve made sure they are going to be able to meet demand. Blackmagic Design wouldn’t tell us who that manufacturer was at the time of writing this, as they don’t feel it matters to consumers where the sensor comes from. As long as they can produce them, and the camera gives good results, who cares? I agree with that point, but I do appreciate the passion of camera lovers.</p>
<p>That being said, the <a href="http://www.eoshd.com/content/10091/more-details-on-global-shutter-and-possible-blackmagic-sensor-supplier-cmosis" target="_blank">speculation is the sensor is made by CMOSIS</a> , as it shares some physical similarities to the Leica M sensor. CMOSIS also makes a Super35 sensor that is in the Apertus camera.</p>
<p>The camera will only be available in EF mount, as the distance to the sensor prevents a PL mount version of the camera. The image circle is also too big for Micro 4/3 lenses.</p>
<p>The camera is slated for release in July, so there should be decent stock of them in August if what were told today about product was true.</p>
<p>This may not be the only cinema camera you own, but it’s shaping up to be one a lot of people with add to the kit. At under $4000, it’s almost a no brainer. One may appear in my camera bag, so I can continue to make bad movies, but at 4K resolution!</p>
<p>Thanks for your time Blackmagic Design.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/blackmagicproductioncamera4k" target="_blank">Visit Blackmagic Design</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/964119-REG/blackmagic_design_blackmagic_production_camera_4k.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Preorder the Blackmagic Production Camera 4K $3995</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Canon EOS 6D Firmware Update

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<strong>Firmware Version 1.1.3 Incorporates the Following Fix</strong>


1. Fixes a phenomenon in which the Date/Time/Zone settings screen appears on the LCD display, after the user has already configured these settings. The values for the Date/Time settings may reset if the backup functions which retain those values do not perform properly.</p>
<p>Even if the camera does not exhibit this phenomenon currently, it may in the future. Accordingly, we recommend that you update the Firmware in the camera to version 1.1.3 as soon as possible.</p>
<p>Firmware Version 1.1.3 is for cameras with firmware up to version 1.1.2. If the camera’s firmware is already Version 1.1.3, it is not necessary to update the firmware. Before downloading the firmware update for your camera, please review the instructions thoroughly.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_6d#DriversAndSoftware" target="_blank">Download Firmware Here</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892349-REG/Canon_8035b002_EOS_6D_Digital_Camera.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EOS 6D Body at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Focusing Advice on a Canon 24mm TS-E

Hi All,
I have a new Canon 24mm TS-E II and am still only getting used to it.
I have a few Samyang Manual Lens (8mm and 14mm) and you get away alot with manual focussing because of the wide angle. It tends to be hard to be too far out of focus.
If it looks in focus in the view finder it's pretty much in focus in reality.

With the Canon 24mm TS-E it's a little trickier.
I am using a Canon 5D Mark III
Unshifted/Untilted it's not so hard to focus and it's pretty sharp.
As you tilt you start getting out of focus and then it getting tricky to focus the parts you want to be in focus.
So generally I use live view but I'm not sure whether there is a better method or more precise way.
Specifically I've seen that people use a Hoodman Loupe sometimes to view the screen.
I am wondering would using one of these allow you to focus more accurately than using 10x on the screen.
If you used the Loupe with the screen at 10x is it all pixelated or the most accurate way to judge accuracy.

I'd also be interested if anyone had links to instructional videos or websites on using the Canon TS-E.
I am interested in finding out roughly the degree of tilt required for the Scheimpflug principle.
From my experimenting it appears to be very little as it starts to blur very quickly as you tilt down (which I believe is the direction of tilt required for the Scheimpflug principle.
The other thing is to learn the degree of shift required to straighten up buildings. This is trickier than I thought it would be. Focusing keeps changing and blur is introduced as you adjust.

It's a very interesting and enjoyable lens I must say. You can do alot of the effects in CS6 pretty easily nowadays. It's nice to do it without that and it slows down your photography alot as there is alot to concentrate on. It helps improve composition and slows down the number of shots taken.

I have taken a few shots I'm happy with and have them up on Flickr. They are not amazing by any means but crafted only using the lens and little or no adjustment in Photoshop (which is a change for me)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fergalocallaghan/8632951200/#in/photostream/

photostream

photostream

photostream


Kind Regards
Fergal

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NAB 2013: Canon USA, All About 4K

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<p><strong>Canon USA at NAB 2013

</strong>Canon’s focus here at NAB 2013 is definitely 4K acquisition and broadcasting. They have a big theater and ongoing presentations about the benefits of acquiring your content in 4K resolution.</p>
<p>A lot of people, including myself, don’t think 4K will even become a mainstream thing inside peoples homes. The size of screen you’d need to see the difference between 4K and 1080P in your home would eliminate most potential customers. Think of it like a 1080P vs 720P 32″ television, there’s just no discernible difference when viewing 1080P content. Another big issue with 4K in your home is streaming content at that resolution. As on demand internet content services become more popular, there’s only a handful of people in the grand scheme of things that will have the bandwidth necessary to stream 4K resolution reliably.</p>
<p>Acquisition does have a lot of merit. Canon was very much pushing the idea of cropping, zooming and having more options when editing your film. They showed a lot of examples of 4K content being zoomed 200%-300% and outputting to a 1080P signal, and the image was still quite stellar.</p>
<p>Beyond the cost of a 4K display, the workflow with 4K content needs improvement. There is a lot of software and hardware talk here at NAB to correct this area of the equation.</p>
<p>Will we see 4K in a DSLR camera other than <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/855962-REG/Canon_EOS_1D_C_EOS_1D_C_4K_Cinema.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EOS-1D C</a>? One day, though I don’t think it will be soon. A drop in price-point for Canon is something that would be welcomed. The $25K+ <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/855975-REG/Canon_EOS_C500_Cinema_EOS.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">C500</a> is a big jump from the $15K <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/839220-REG/Canon_5779B002_C300_Cinema_EOS_Camcorder.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">C300</a>.</p>
<p>The 4K and 8K resolution is beautiful on the big screen, just don’t expect it to become mainstream in your home. Your local movie theatre is a different story.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/839220-REG/Canon_5779B002_C300_Cinema_EOS_Camcorder.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EOS C300 $13,999</a> (Save $2000)</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Question regarding ultrawide lenses on crop and full frame cameras

I'm a hobbyist photographer who mainly shoots landscapes, and have been using a 7D for the last 3 years. My ultrawide landscape lens is the Canon EF-S 10-22, which does yield good results, but coupled with the pixel dense 7D does struggle with fine detail towards the corners when the files are viewed near to 100%. Whilst I always expected that going full frame would give benefits especially regarding landscape photography, and is something I intend to do in the medium term when i can afford it, I was quite amazed at the difference in sharpness comparing the sample crops on The Digital Picture: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=271&Camera=736&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=3&LensComp=100&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=3
Looking at this comparison, with both lenses set to f8 and at their widest setting to provide a similar FOV in their respective formats, the EF-S 10-22 used on a 60D crop body @10mm appears very unsharp and with more visible CA than even the 17-40L ( itself not regarded as a stellar performer at the wide end on FF until considerably stopped down) used on a 1Ds mk. III. Is this showing the limitations of ultrawide glass on pixel dense crop sensors or could it be partly down to a poor copy of the 10-22 being tested? This difference indicates that I would see a marked improvement in IQ by switching to a FF body, even using the 17-40, which I already own. Any thoughts/ input appreciated!

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Kenko Teleconverters... im so confused.

it´s a bit confusing, there are so many kenko models... and then there are even colored dots that seperate the models further... i don´t know what to buy. ::)

please help. :)

i want to use the 1.4x TC with my 90mm tamron macro and the 70-200mm F4 IS on my 7D and 6D.

and i want the best image quality.

ps:
i don´t want the protruting element on the canon TC, i maybe want to use the TC one day on other lenses too, so it´s kenko for me.

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Another one of those 5D Mark III soft images threads.

Please move this topic if it belongs somewhere else.

I am a professional photographer based in Australia, who recently upgraded from the 5D Mark II to the mark III, mainly for the autofocusing speed abilities. I also have a 60D in my kit, which works well for sports but some shoots demand the full frame sensor. Most of my clients are big publications, and I have had some bad feedback about "soft" images since upgrading to the MarkIII, which is a huge problem considering this is my main income source (and have magazines relying on shots for DPS', posters and covers). On investigation, I have noticed the 5d Mark III images looks fine zoomed out, but when cropped in 100% are noticeably soft, softer than that of the MarkII (and in some cases, the 60D!).
I have tried extensive image sharpening, but can never get that "tack sharp" photo that I could get with the mark II.
Im shooting in RAW, and process in lightroom. I tried bumping the picture profile sharpness up in-camera which helped a little but still no visible sharp focus point. I have spent alot of time on the autofocus micro adjustment, and thought I had it spot on, but compared to the Mark ii - it still sucked.

Can anyone tell me if its just me suffering from these problems? There seems to be a few on the web, but I would really like to rectify this problem rather than selling the 5d3 and buying a 7D until canon release a good affordable fast full-frame camera.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

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Will Canon release a Pocket BMCC competitor?

I think it's a amazing that Black Magic released such a camera and I have been looking to upgrade to something that shoots raw for my real estate work. The sensor is s16, but I'm sure I could find an affordable lens to get wide enough. This really sounds perfect for my RE work. I would be happy to pay Canon more for a competitor maybe even with a slightly larger sensor. Body size is not an issue to me for the most part. It's just the specs I want. And SD Cards! Affordable media. Any thoughts on Canon?

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EF 300mm 2.8 IS - Anybody seen anything like this?

I rented a 300mm 2.8 IS from a local dealer last weekend for a softball game as my 70-200 was in for repair. There was some kind of issue with the lens as I could not achieve any kind of flat plane of focus. I suspected a mis-aligned or loose lens element. It seemed to get better or worse, perhaps depending on focus distance. For a time it seemed worse around home plate than in the outfield. Autofocus seemed to be struggling at times, and even when I went manual it was difficult to focus, leaving me thinking it was time for a new eyeglass prescription.

Here is an example photo:

2013-04-06 at 13-02-16 by Progeny of Light, on Flickr

Note that the webbing in the player's glove appears mostly sharp (but not perfectly so, in my opinion) and the face is less focused, and the feet are WAY out. In fact there seems to be NO area of grass in the lower third of the image that is in focus. There should be a strip of sharply focused grass right at the players feet.

Also, the blur at the outer edges appears streaked as if from motion blur, but this is virtually impossible as the photo was taken at 1/1600 sec.

I showed sample images to the dealer and they refunded my rental fee. I was doing a little more shopping in the store when the rental guy approached me and told me he'd done some test images with the lens on a 5D and they looked perfectly normal. I looked at them and agreed. He suggested there was a problem with my camera, although neither of us could come up with a logical explanation for how the camera could cause this type of image blur.

When I got back home I shot some test images with my 7D (the camera used with the rental lens) although the longest lens I had on hand was a 24-105. Therefore, I could not replicate the telephoto conditions I experienced with the 300mm. My pictures were fine.

So my question to you all is this: Has anyone seen anything like this before with a 300mm 2.8 or other lens? Anybody know of any kind of camera malfunction that could cause this?

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Aftermarket tripod rings vs OEM

I was curious how you guys felt about aftermarket tripod rings (like the ones found on eBay) vs the Canon OEM ones. Of course you can get the aftermarket ones cheaper and the couple that I have used seemed decent quality and build. BUT, that is a lot $$$ (equipment) to trust to something that make break easier than the OEM brand. I am not talking about super heavy lenses. My biggest lens is the EF 70-300L and I have an aftermarket ring for it.

Thanks!

Don

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24-105L or 70-200L f/2.8?

Currently in the market for a 6D and was wondering which lens should I buy with it? If I were to go for the body only ($1,699) instead of the 24-105 kit ($2,329), I'd be basically getting a 600$+ head start on the 70-200 f/2.8 ($1,300). These lenses would both serve as general purpose lenses but the 70-200 f/2.8 would benefit me more in my work of field (automotive photography). Also note that right now I have exactly enough for the kit. So if I decide to get the 70-200 f/2.8 I'd still need about $600-700. Thanks in advance!

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