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Step-up Ring, Filter...

S
Could any of you share their experience/ thoughts on the following: if I would use a 77mm polarisation filter screwed (pardon my French) in a 67-77mm step-up ring, on the front end of my lens (which has, as you all probably have concluded, a 67mm filter size) would I be able to use this combination without any negative effects or is there any reason (practical/ optical) for this not to be useful? I guess I am probably not the first 'smarty pants' who came up with this idea, so if (especially being new to this forum) I should have missed this topic being raised and solved before, I duly apologize, but would really appreciate your kind input! Thanks to all!
(PS: English is not my native language, for please forgive any weird usage of the before mentioned; - )
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Really good price on 1DX?

S
As I live in Australia, I am not familiar with some of the US online companies. Can anyone give me any comments on a company called HDV Pro Broadcast Tools, Chicago.(www.hdvtools.com) - They are advertising a Canon 1DX body for just AU$4795. and the lowest price I can find otherwise is thro' DWI at AU$5559 ex Hong Kong. HDV require all buyers to use Liberty reserve to pay for the item, which is not something I have had any experience with. Any comments are appreciated.
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Leica M 240 vs 5D III vs Nikon D800

M
After shooting and being obsessed with photography for two years I somehow settled with a 35mm f/1.4 on my dslr. It's 90% time on my camera for last few months.
Now as M 240 is about to be released I started to wonder should I sell all my equipment and settle with Leica and 35mm 1.4 lux. I like the idea of having EVF on it as composing through viewfinder is a bit tricky I heard.
Maybe in future I'd get some other lens as well, but for now 35mm is what gives me joy and I'm certain this would be enough for me. The size and weight are also a big plus for me to go in that direction.

Could owners of both systems share some thought about IQ, sharpness, colors... comparing Leica (I presume IQ of M240 will be very similar if not better than M9) and one of the mentioned DSLRs?

What are your predictions about other brands?
Will they go in that direction too?
I read Zeiss lenses are quality wise quite close to Leica and maybe there will be some other FF rangefinder style cameras for much less money.
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70-200 IS2 + Canon 1.4x teleconverter question

S
I have the 70-200 IS2 and just ordered the Canon 1.4x teleconverter, should be here next week some time. I looked at the chart shots of this combo at http://www.the-digital-picture.com/ and liked what I saw. However, the shots are only at 200mm plus the converter. I read the info on the converter and it says its only compatible with 135mm and longer.

So my question is what to expect out of this pairing when zoomed under native 135mm? I am assuming it will not be very good on the short end. Is that what owners of this combo have found? Or is it still good IQ even on the short end with the converter?

Of course I'll find out for myself next week, but knowing what to expect will help me evaluate if its a good copy, so thanks in advance for sharing what you know.
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Up to what ISO are you willing to set? Aperture?

E
I want to learn from you guys:

Added: What aperture you normally use? when you dont intend bokeh.

In low light,
Up to what ISO you willing to go?
When handheld at 28mm, how low is shutter speed you willing to go?
which camera you refer to?

Mine:
2000
10th-20th
G12

Thanks in advance.

Background:

I got 6D recently, coming from a G12 I was carried away, use Av Mode and set aperture < 2.8, ISO range up to 25600. After Christmas, I checked my pictures and a lot of the shots was in 12800 above. And my G12 old pics looks better, in the past I used manual mode on G12 and carefully not go > 1600 ISO and < 1/30 shutter speed.
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Fastest Sync Speed

pwp
I'm constantly hitting the wall with slow flash sync speeds. Australian light can be hard, harsh and brutal, and when there is no option but to shoot through the middle of the day, fill flash is often a must.

Low powered options are obvious, HSS with speedlights often save the day, but a true high speed sync camera body would be brilliant to enable full use of Einsteins etc. I'm quietly hoping for 500th on the upcoming 7D2. I appreciate and understand why higher sync speeds on FF bodies is technically challenging, but how about APS-C?

My 1D Mk4 has a handy 300th sync, and my long retired EOS 1D had 500th sync. Brilliant.

Other than leaf shutter MF DSLR cameras, is there anything around that has FAST sync speeds? I'd even consider a sub-APS-C sensor provided it was acceptably high quality. Fuji? Panasonic? Olympus? Or (gasp...) Nikon?

-PW
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I love big gear

F
As a counterpoint to the posts on here complaining about the size of a DSLR, I'm here to say I like it that way! I spend the weekend with a

18-2166-IMG1_LRG.jpeg


Lowepro Pro Trekker strapped to my back with 35 lbs of stuff. Great exercise! And I knew I wouldn't miss any opportunity. I had a full Gitzo and RRS tripod system for doing panoramas, plus about five lenses and flash system. I had it covered! It was comfortable and really strengthened me up (I went with a buddy who had his backpack filled with unusable stuff, just for the exercise) Compared to that, holding the DSLR with a single lens is nothing! If I feel like a small setup I throw a pancake or other prime on there, it's nothing.

So you can keep your puny girly man Leica; it's a DSLR for me anyway.
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The love for AA size batteries

1
My canon camera is S3 IS the good old school bridge that took 4 AA sized batteries under the hood. At first i hated it then i started loving it after the introduction of sanyo eneloop. Eneloop is amazing and delivered what it promised.
Now its time for a new camera for me. First i obviously looked for canon camera's with AA size batteries:
Then options came : 1) Canon sx160 is

But heart called for 1080p videos and a little more compact with cmos sensor (s3is performed poorly in low light) then came 2) Canon sx240HS

Then came into low battery issues (in the forums) just 200 pics and 30 mins of videos and expensive option at the time of replacement.

-ves of lithium ion (oem) :
1) Low number of shots compared to eneloop
2) Expensive when replacing
3) Same model with no new innovation (sanyo improves the line each year)
4) Availability of the battery in the market after a few years/ Or in a different country (AA will always be easily available)


Now my question is :
1) is there a powershot sx160 is successor planned for 2013-14 with AA size batteries?
2) Is Powershot 240HS much superior to sx160is
3) What is the future of AA size batteries in cameras?
4) Am i overly concerned about the issues of lithium -ion (is it not that much of an issue?)

Please help....!
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My first Studio!! Einsteins or Bowens??

Hi everyone,

I'm about to move into my first studio so I need to set up the space with er, everything! So I want to get this right and make sure I buy stuff that I can add on to months/years down the line easily.

My options for lighting are to buy Einsteins or something similar if anyone can recommend. I've always rented Bowens 500W from my local Calumet and they've always seemed good but I've heard great things about the Einsteins as well. I need all modifiers as well so I wonder which brands will have better options?

Anyone have any opinions on these two brands and which might be better? More sturdy, better build, constant colour, etc?

Any help would be much appreciated!
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Watt compared to guide numbers on speedlights?

Q
I have a set up in an improvised studio at work where I tried to blow out the background with a 600 and a 580, and using my other 580 as main light on the right side, and my 430 as the fill light. The main light and fill works great, but I have seen that the blow-out-the-background light works only so and so (they are both on full blast (+3). The problem is that they give only a semiblasted background, and the recharge time is slow, thus making me loose several shots. I have now borrowed a couple of Elinchrom sets at 200 watts per lamp, hence my intitial question at how does they translate from what I own myself?

Second, When testing the set up today I saw that it was way too bright/stronger than what I am used to with my canon speedlights.. but I think that I can reduce the power by changing aperture (I was shooting at ISO 165, Aperture 5,6, and 1/250 and this worked great for the sidelight and fill). I am thinking maybe in the vicinity of f11 now to get it equal?

Thank you,

G.

Maybe my question is not coherent here, but my problem is that I have never shot with strobes before, and I am used to my canon speedlights and their power..
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2013 Vistek Emerging Photographer

R
Hey gang,

I have been selected as a finalist in the 2013 Vistek Emerging Photographer competition. It is a part of the 2013 Exposure Photography Festival which is the biggest in Western Canada.
So go here to vote http://www.exposurephotofestival.com/competition.html even if it is not for me. Although I would prefer it. I just want a good turnout when it comes to voting. Pass it on and remember: If you don't vote, the terrorists win. The voting thing is at the bottom of the page but doesn't load on iOS devices.

Thanks!
Riley
www.rileyjoseph.com

And here are the 5 photos I submitted for judging.
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STEPUP / DOWN rings

C
http://fotodioxpro.com/index.php/fotodiox-7-step-up-ring-set-49-52mm-52-55mm-55-58mm-58-62mm-62-67mm-67-72mm-72-77mm-step-up-rings.html


Just wondering on above rings and or alternatives or Problems that occur (the filter plane(after using the ring) is not 100% paralleled with the Sensor etc...

is there better version of these type of things

any shared experience or advice is always helpfell
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Spiral Arm of the Milky Way above the Texas Desert

A
Finally got somewhere dark enough worth shooting some long exposures. So we headed an hour east of Lubbock, Texas, to where it is virtually pitch black. The moon was 1 day past new so it was ideal. Only thing that could have been better was the time of year, the brightest part of the Milky Way is only visible during the summer (in the Northern Hemisphere anyways). And it was in the 20's with wind chills near zero, but for 5 hours me and a buddy shot almost nonstop. I shot a time lapse with the 5D3/14LII/Dynamic Perception Stage Zero dolly, still working on that. Set up my friend with the Zeiss 21mm f/2.8/5D2, adjusted settings and he took it from there and actually got some great shots. I was shooting with another 5D3/24LII and 16-35mm f/2.8. Keep in mind these are individual exposures, most of the really insane pictures of the Milky Way you see are a bunch of stacked exposures, but I don't have a tracking mount yet so I couldn't do that.

Here are a couple of ones I liked from the first batch of shots I processed:

24mm f/1.4L @ f/2, ISO3200, 20 Seconds (That little bright disc to the left is a Galaxy!)
8405314489_e2f6002d31_b.jpg


16-35mm f/2.8L II @ 22mm, f/2.8, 30 seconds (Little bit too long for focal length, but it turned out ok)
8405320241_34ce92d1ee_b.jpg


I know alot of astronomy buffs may be sickened by these, but the general public love shots that look like this. It was a learning experience and I'm thrilled to have had the chance to finally get some shots like these. I'm going back in the summer since that's when the brightest part of the Milky Way is visible.


Edit: I posted these a few pages up, figured I'd move them here:

16-35L II, ISO3200, f/2.8, 30 seconds (Used a Night Sky preset and exported to show you, post processing a bit too much for me, but you get the idea).
8406163211_65f2f40556_b.jpg


Here is one with nothing in the foreground, so kinda boring, but lot of cool stuff is visible
24LII, ISO3200, f/2, 20 seconds.
8407257348_56302009db_b.jpg
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Please advise which 1.4x teleconverter to buy: Kenko, Tamron, or Sigma

Vivid Color
I have both the Canon 6D and the T1i and I recently bought the 70-300L for an upcoming African photo safari. My question is: should I buy a teleconverter and, if so, should I buy the Kenko 1.4 TC or some other non-Canon brand? I know that there are other TCs on the market, such as Tamron's and Sigma's, yet I haven't been able to find much in direct comparisons to the Kenko. The comparisons generally seem to be between the 3rd party and Canon, which isn't helpful since the Canon TC won't work at all focal lengths on the 70-300L and therefore, I do not wish to buy it. (By the way, I posted a version of this question earlier, but did not receive any replies so I'm reposting it. I've also revised the subject as I realized the prior subject heading I used earlier today may have led you to think I was trying to start a theoretical debate when I'm really asking for your practical advice on what, if any, teleconverter I should buy.) Your comments about the various non-Canon brands of teleconverters and which might be best (if such a statement can even be made) will be greatly appreciated.
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EOS-1D X Firmware Specifcations

Canon Rumors
HTML: 
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/?p=12730"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/?p=12730">Tweet</a></div>
<p><strong>Canon EOS-1D X Firmware 1.2.1</strong>

Release of New Firmware Version 1.2.1, firmware incorporating disablement (operational error prevention) of the Image Size selection button</p>
<p>We are releasing firmware version 1.2.1 for EOS -1D X for service prior to the Web announcement. We are planning to make this firmware available on the Web for download in mid-January 2013.</p>
<p>This firmware update is to improve operational function in response from several professional</p>
<p>photographers that the Image Selection button was pressed without realizing and the image size had been changed. Also, this firmware incorporates quality issue fixes that have been reported from the market.</p>
<p>1. Details of Functional Improvements and Fixes</p>
<p>1-1. The function to disable the Image Size selection button is added.</p>
<p>1-2. Fixes Err 70 and Err 80 which may occur depending on the camera settings, shooting scenes, or the timing of releases. Also, some complained camera freeze when Err 80 occurred.</p>
<p>The above mentioned (1-2) phenomenon occur in very rare instances. In addition with the firmware update for 1-1, the fixes for these phenomena have been incorporated.</p>
<p>a) Err 70</p>
<p>In customization of operational buttons, there were errors in operational program for the exposure level display in the viewfinder when the Main Dial is set to change the aperture value in Manual mode, and may cause Err 70.</p>
<p>b) Err 80</p>
<p>Err 80 may occur depending on the distance to the subject, shooting scenes, or the timing of metering.</p>
<p>This phenomenon occurs in very rare instances due to the error in operational program for metering when shooting a subject at a distance with telephoto lenses with focal lengths of 300 mm or 400 mm.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
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Advice on P&S

E
Hi everyone! I have been asked by a friend of mine for advice on a P&S system, and which to buy. Unfortunately, I know nothing about what cameras are good outside of DSLRs, so I am at a loss for what to recommend, and I don't even know where to begin looking on this forum.

She did give me what kind of features she is looking for, and a $300 price ceiling. I don't think that all of her demands will be met (at all), but I am hoping to at least point her in the right direction with features.

She wants a camera that is decent in low light, and has a decent zoom to get her closer to birds "and other pretty things". She has a basic background in photography from back in the day, so she wants to be able to use the camera on fully manual if possible. She also has two younger kids and a couple of cats, so I'm sure those will be her subjects often. She isn't really thinking about prints, so high MPs aren't a requirement.

I hope this is enough information for suggestions!

Thanks!
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CPL + Wide Angle = Sadness

ahsanford
Hello team,

I had a question regarding a certain frustration I've had with landscape shooting: wide angle + circular polarizers.

The CPL has been a staple for me -- principally for contrast management with the sky in landscape work. But as I am sure you all know, the effect is variable depending upon your angle to the sun. Couple that with a wide angle lens, and whammo, you induce that ever-so-nasty local darkening/brightening in the sky -- I've been calling it 'CPL-pseudo vignetting.' (It didn't really need a term, to be fair.)

Boring examples attached. One with the maximum polarization, one with minimum. Shot on a 5D3 with the 24-70 F/2.8L I on the 24mm end. Straight JPG off the camera (I usually shoot RAW), re-sized only.

From a composition perspective, it seems like I only have four convenient choices to choose between:

  • Accept the pseudo-vignetting and take the shot. Some dark blue sky is better than none. I usually take this option.
  • Below a certain focal length, don't use the CPL and accept a glaring cyan sky.
  • Zoom in until the effect is minimized (on FF: at least 35, more like 50 to me).
  • Move my feet, turn, etc. to cleverly reframe to put the darkness in a shady spot (if you can).

I have, of course, left out things impractical options like waiting for better / more even light, assembling multiple exposures or completely editing the sky down in post.

Physics are what they are, I'm looking less for a solution so much as a *convenient* thought process to net solid shots in these situations without a large post-processing task. I strongly would like to get this right in-camera if possible.

Thoughts? I appreciate your insights!

- A
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Yet Another 5D vs 7D Question

R
Just received a new 5D iii replacing my 5D ii, I also own a 7D. I love birding and will be receiving a 500 mm 4.0 ii supertele in June. With the 1.6 crop factor and a 1.4x iii extender, the effective reach on the 7D is 1,120mm. (can't use the 2x because of 5.6 f stop limit) With the firmware update on the 5D3 this spring I will be able to use my 2x converter on my 5D giving me a reach of 1,000 mm.

Here is the question: How will the quality of the pic on the 5D compare to the 7D. You will have a small crop on the 5D to reach an apples to apples comparison with the 7D pic. But there should be a lot more pixels in the 5D picture because the crop is minimal. Add in noise, AF and the rest of the benefits of a full frame vs a APS c chip and intuitively I would think the edge goes to the 5D picture. Am I smoking dope?

PS
I read all of the discussions on the 5D/7D crop considerations in April but did not see this question addressed. If I missed it, my apologies.
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