EOS 6D vs 5D III/II/7D/650D Lumix GH3/2

fazit:

good iso noise
resolution worse then 5D MK2 and 5D MK3
DR not that imprressive compare to older canons (well i did not expect it to be much better).

thought testing DR is a bit complicated and i don´t know if their methode is convincing.

I recently purchased a refurbished Canon 5D mk iii from Canon for $22xx. I received the camera and it has a pin sized hole in the serial number plate that identifies it as a refurbished camera. So, when I try to resell it, it is obvious that it is a refurb. How much does this lower the resale value and will I have a harder time reselling? I still have a week to return it and I am seriously thinking of sending it back and waiting for the price to come down and purchasing new.

Hello,

I would like to know your thoughts on this topic.
How difficult could be to work with a 6D and a fast lens if you have to recompose (focal plane distance changes) and want to achieve a shallow DOF ?

Hi,

What contributes to the EOS bodies speed and accuracy when focusing (all with same lens)?

What are the differences between:

• Rebels
• 60D (similar to this)
• 7D
• 5D Series
• 1D Series

-PhotoShine

Gday.

I went out with my mates today on a rented boat. It was a crappy boat.
We stopped by a beach and I had my 6d + 8-15 fisheye and was taking happy snaps in the sand, etc, thinking ... weatherproof=sandproof. All okay there.

Hours later, we hop on the boat and it starts raining, mediumishy. I take my camera out of my waterproof backpack and friends say, "nooo... it's raining! Your camera will break! I say, Bah! The body and lens is weatherproof! I'll be fine".

Several hours pass, I'm still fine.
There's speckles of water on the fisheye lens pretty much everywhere, the camera has water also, everything is fine.

I would describe the amount of water on the camera .... "as if one had been hosed with water in a jovial manner while holding the camera". Something which I think, is not too much. It was definitely more water than I would expose my phone to, and certainly more than my laptop. But hey! This beast is weatherproof.

Then I take a video, and stop, and .. and .. omG! What happened to my Play button?! I press my play button and the liveview action gets invoked?... and .. AAAHH my right cursor button takes me to the menu?

Sigh.

In the end .... the buttons on the backplate are all confused with each other.

Now that I'm at home, I've lost the menu button, that does nothing, the AF select button will sometimes call the menu action, the right arrow calls the menu, the up arrow calls info. The left and bottom and set and info and Q still work. I haven't tested the others. I'm leaving my camera on a shelf (minus battery) for a day and then hoping it dries up and works again!

Otherwise, a visit to the friendly canon service man and hopefully they fix it under warranty. I've had it for less than a month. Maybe there was something wrong with its weather sealing when it was new.

NB: Once it got a bit sandy/rainy I didn't change the lens at all.
NB2: The fisheye works fine.

My suggestion to other 6D-ers. If your camera is wet ... press as few buttons as possible.

*sigh,
*goes and cancels next weekend's photoshoot.

Thinking about buying a 5dc for 450$. Is it worth the investment ?

Hi Everyone,

My First Post!

I am going FF to 6D soon (from a Canon Rebel T1i) and currently own the Canon 50mm f/1.4. I'm looking into getting the Canon 85mm f/1.8 and was wondering how this lens compares (AF, sharpness, contrast, color rendition...) to other Canon lenses:

• EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
• EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM
• EF 100mm f/2 USM
• EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM

I have heard the Canon 135L is GREAT, but the focal length is too long for indoors IMO which is where i will mostly do portrait work, family, kids...At least for a while.

What do you think about the rumored Canon 85mm f/1.8 IS Version?

I am attempting to sort out any resets the service center may have done but most of them including AFMA are all in place for all lenses.

However, after taking several outdoor photos today @ 1000 ISO I don't recall ever seeing this much graininess and trying to figure out what's changed. Is it likely any of these settings would cause this appearance:
High ISO NR was on Standard..just changed to "OFF"
Highlight Tone Priority was on, now off

If there's anything else one can think of to turn "off or "on" please advise. I've shot at ISO 3200 indoors without flash and shots were amazing. I'm not sure what the issue could be.. Every shot taken was grainy. Lens used 400mm 5.6 L. I used the 24-105 the other day outdoors (after picked up from service) and strangely I had no issues with graininess.

With all these new cameras coming out with pixel offset technology like the new hassleblad
it got me thinking about the 5Dmk3 22mp sensor and its 3x HD sensor size

would it be possible to make it record 3 seperate exposures with a 1 pixel offeset and a different exposure for each which you could set for each and then blend?

but since the shutter speed cant be varied or the aperture that leaves only iso adjustment as the method for this internal video bracketing?

I am sure this would take some fairly heavy processing power that most likely the existing single digic 5+ processor might not be able to keep up with but would the concept work in a future cinema body with say dual digic 6 prosessors or whatever that could blend it on the fly giving a much broader dynamic range of video?

why do you think?

I live in Vancouver and would like to purchase the above. I would like to know:

1) Where is the cheapest/best place in Canada to buy this camera?

2) Is it better to drive across the border and purchase from the USA (eg have B&H deliver to a UPS in Washington state to pick up?

3) Recommendations for items to buy after the body as my first few purchases (lenses etc) for video use.

Many Thanks!

Yep, I know there’s been lots of post on these two. Yet, since there’s not much new equipment announcements to make us quarrel lately, thanks to the community to kindly share the experience.

I still have the 10-22 to use on 60D. It’s sharp, yes. And I know lots of people swear by it. Personal opinion here, I find the pictures to be dull somehow, lacking depth or texture. So, imo and in short, 10-22 is certainly very capable but has no mojo !

For me, lenses like 35L or 85/II have mojo. Lot of it. Wow effet. Beyond words. With these two guys, I sometimes happen, with all settings to zero, to just convert to jpeg without any adjustment. In prints, the oomph effect is even more obvious than with pictures viewed on comp screens (downsized to 2 MB isn’t it).

Now, tried to love it but I’m going to sell the 10-22. So the question is, for 5D3, 17-40 or 16-35 ? Been reading every possible review, understand the pros and cons of each but I’m still wondering which one has the mojo – if one has any. It’s not for the 600 buck difference. It’s just no-nonsense decision. In reviews, it’s all about sharpness. There’s some on distortion and CA but that’s about it. Most conclude that if you don’t need the extra stop for low light, the extra mil and do mainly landscape at f8+, they both deliver the same result. I can read charts and can conclude that by myself, thank you. No word on the wow effect. No word on the lens mojo ! And you never know by how much, pictures seen on the net have been touched- up or altered.

So, will someone having or having used both lenses kindly share the experience and give advice/opinion on this delicate mojo subject, with some pics if possible ? I’d be delighted to be enlighted.

Discuss the review of the EF 50 f/1.2L

as a 450D user I'm on the hunt for a good deal on a 5d2 or save for 6D or 5d3

however I always see people selling bodies with 5-25K clicks attempting to sell the 5d2 for 1500 or even more, because they spent 2 grand on it a year ago.

I dont think I'd pay more than 1400 with body and kit lens. Is everyone crazy hoping we don't know what the market looks like or just hoping to find a sap.

here is one I made with the 50mm 1.8 and 18-55 (i hate this lens)

The Act: Dreams

Hi,
though I would start a new thread for this after hijacking this one a while ago:

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=11978.msg213260#msg213260

Click to expand...

.

I'm trying to work methodically through the various AF settings as I could never get AF to work well with BIF (Birds in Flight) in my garden. So please bear with me. For my tests I stood by the side of the road and using low-speed continuous shooting took shots as cars came into view and crossed the field of view. Most of them will have been driving around 30-60Kph.
I assume the Camera should be able to handle this situation. Agreed?
Lens is a 70-200 F2:8 L IS II USM (Group A), IS on set to mode 2. AF point selection set to automatic.

First point. If I set the camera to Automatic (A+), then it will focus on something nearby which is at the side of the AF points. See the picture Focus1. IMHO that is correct.

Now, if I switch to AV, now in AI-Servo AF, then it will only focus using the center points. I tried various Av and Tv settings, I could never get anything other that the center points to "Lock" (flash red). Picture Focus2.jpg. I was using AF Case 3 here, expecting

In Case 3, the [Tracking sensitivity] parameter is set to [+1]. As a result, subjects that come into the AF points will be focused on more quickly. This setting is most
effective when subjects appear suddenly in the frame (for example photographing skiers in an alpine skiing downhill race,).

Click to expand...

I get the effect that it has locked onto someting in the background (Focus3.jpg) and does not change focus even if the car crosses in front of the object that was in focus. Plus, it never tries to follow the car anyway. See Focus4.jpg.
This was done with the three parameters set to default and then tried to increase Tracking sensitivity to +2 without any effect. Now as the AF wont follow a car, I'm not surprised that it doesn't follow a small bird.

I'd appreciate any hints of what I may be doing wrong.

Cheers Brian

Just seen these linked by a friend on Facebook - really amazing

http://pavelkosenko.wordpress.com/2012/03/28/4x5-kodachromes/

I'm a newbie with Canon and used to use the Nikon SB900 flashes in SU-4 mode which makes them a manual, optical slave that would fire when any studio flash went off. Im trying to do the same with the Canon RT600EX but can't find a way for them to fire completely independent of the camera / ST-E3 controller. Any advise would be much appreciated.

I wanted to check out the 40mm (primarily because of its "chic" looks) but already have the 50mm f/1.4. Just wondering whether the 40mm does anything that the 50mm does not with respect to IQ?

Yesterday,when I tried out my 1DX,there were times when the auto=focusing had a hard time working or not working at all.A few times,I have to press the shuttet button(Both Vertical and Horizontal)harder to take a shot and there would be a few times when it wouldn't work.This is the first time that it has happened.By the way,this doesn't happen most of the time.Like I said,it was only the first time this has happened.It only happens about 5% to 10% of the time since yesterdayWould anyone out there know on what is happening.Is there anything wrong with the lens contact of the cameraOr,is there something wrong with the shutter release of my camera?You see,I tried out different lenses and still get the same problem.
Thanks.

Can anyone tell me why some L lenses rubber rings chalk over while some do not and is there an easy fix??

Thks for commentary and suggestions about this phenomenon. The white powder looking appearance on the rubberized rings of some L lenses is exactly what I'm talking about. While I'm not paranoid about it, one would have to admit that while browsing sites such as ebay you encounter this condition frequently and given a choice of two equal lenses priced about the same and otherwise similar condition, you are apt to lean toward the one without this condition. Always looking to acquire L lenses but have avoided these in past.

While I don't have this problem on any of my lenses nor have I ever seen it on a new lens, I have often wondered what caused it and if there were any further underlying problems associated with it. Apparently, based on responses this does not cause any other problems and it is not a mold based issue. Thks for responses

Have the money to get the 24-70 2.8 II to pair with my 1Dx. It seems like a no brainer to me. I'll be using for event photography, portraits and will be getting into weddings. That said I'd really like to have a 70-200 as I love that range and use it often whether for surf photography or something else. Given the ISO performance on the 1Dx do I need IS (I really don't have enough money for the 2.8 IS II but may be able to swing the ver I)? Could I even go to f4 with good results or will I be spoiled by the sharpness of the 24-70?

Hey guys, opening up to thoughts here. What would you guys think about a line of canon lenses with wide aperatures, but no aperature blades.

If there were 1.0-2.0 prime lenses, with no aperature blades, sharp glass for the single aperature (L or not), built quality of the new IS primes, and a USM for a cheap price, would you buy it?

Of course aperature blades are important, but a line like this would be really nice for amateurs and enthusiasts wanting wide aperatures.

I have no ballpark price estimate, but this would make for a much simpler computer.

Hey guys! First post, so I apologize if I sound like a fool who didn't use Search (I did, I promise.)

Last year I finally upgraded from my plasticky rebel to a 7D, and fell in love with the build quality and tighter controls.

I already had a trio of 28 f/1.8, 50 f/1.4, and 85 f/1.8, but my friend recently gave me his 17-40mm f/4L and 100 f/2.8L to borrow indefinitely. I tend to shoot mostly indoors stuff, so I'd love to use the 17-40L more often, but on a crop body it's really slow versus an EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 (or my friend's Sigma 17-50 f/2.8).

Is the 5D2 going to present a noticeable upgrade in noise performance over the 7D? One problem with my indoors stuff is that I have to bump my ISO up to 3200 at times, which looks pretty bad on Canon's ancient T2i/T3i/T4i/60D/7D crop sensor. The 5D3 and 1D-X are both sick, but those are WAY out of my price range. The 6D doesn't appeal to me terribly after I've fallen in love with the 7D's build quality and control scheme; so that leaves the 5D2.

Has anyone upgraded directly from the 7D to the 5D2? How does it do in terms of low-light performance? Is it worth the jump? I'd probably sell my 7D for around $900 used, and pick up a new 5D2 for around $1500 online (or used for $1300 hopefully).

Thanks y'all!