Taken in a photowalk (on my own) in London last night...


Just off St Martin's Lane by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Diii, 24-105 @ 50mm, 1/40 sec, f5.0, ISO3200


Covent Garden by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: as above, except 65mm, 1/13 sec


The Actors' church by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: as above, except 28mm, 1/10 sec.

All handheld

Its a bit early to wish you a happy high ISO Christmas, but the shops are determined! Actually, the first shot had nothing Christmassy about it, apart from the feel...

Richard

JPEG straight out of the camera. No editing done yet

Hello Canon folks,

I thought I'd dabble at some sports work. My friend plays hockey in a local rec league, so I thought I'd give that a go.

It's a small local rink, and I have free access to about 80% of the glass' periphery and can walk right up to the glass. Also, being a new rink, the glass is nearly perfectly clear (though it does reflect lights).

Here's what I am doing...

Gear:

• 5D3
• 24-70 Mk I, 70-200 F/2.8 IS II
• UV filters only (for front element protection), not using polarizers as I want as much light as possible
• Not using hoods as the slightly elevated standing space behind the boards is really small and the hood would lean to a risky balancing act as it would push me back three inches from the glass.

Method:

• Most of the shots are standing behind the glass in the corners of the ice, I can comfortably pan with the 70-200 or zoom out with the 24-70 to see from the entry of the zone to the net without hitting a glass seam.
• Not using a monopod -- just handholding
• Using IS mode 1 on the 70-200. I'm not just panning at guys skating by. Some guys are coming right at me.
• I'm generally trying to freeze motion, so I've been in the ISO 1600-3200 range, and F/3.5 or so as both lenses sharpen up when slightly stopped down. I'm happy to net 1/500s exposures, but would love to shoot more quickly if it didn't generate much noise or drive a softer large aperture.
• Using level one out of three of high ISO noise reduction.
• Shooting JPEG only to keep the buffer manageable -- more consecutive shots.
• AI Servo used, chose mode 4 in the menu system. Generally using the center point only, but I also use single point off-set right or left to track the puck handler with space in front of them, rule of thirds-style.... sort of.
• As I am shooting JPEG, I'm using the florescent white balance as that's the lighting in this rink.
• Pushing EV +1 to get the ice truly white (it's gray at normal exposure) -- this is like shooting snow, right?

Results:

• I'm seeing a lot of slightly cloudy looking shots. Levels work can manage some of this, but I'd like to get it right in camera if possible.
• Much like shooting portraits of someone in front of the ocean, I often mess up and shoot out-of-level with the boards & dasher. Any tips on this? Monopod, maybe?
• Sharpness is good, not great. Nothing, not even still shots of guys at a faceoff, resembles the razor sharpness I see on a sports website. Short of stopping down further, what can I do here?

Samples -- see attached / below.

...Now, please tell me what might put me in a better position to succeed!

Thanks, team. It's awesome to learn from you all.

- A

Hi everyone

Recently bought a 200L f2.8 mk I used in excellent condition and I'm very pleased with it, unless I'm shooting in low light situations. I have a 5Dii and in low light this lens hunts too much to grab focus and sometimes it wont grab it at all. Hence, my question: does anyone know if the 200L f2.8 mk II has any improvements regarding focusing from the mk I?

I know the main difference between them is that the mk II lost that useless built-in hood that the mk I had. I also know that the 5Dii autofocus system is crap in low light, but that's what I have.

Thank you all.

Hi,
I have a 5 D 'classic' that I use as a second body (to a 5D mk2). I have the chance to basically swap the 5D 'classic' for a 1DS mk2.

Should I do it?

Dilemma.

Anyone got some good pros and cons ?

Thanks for your time

Rhys.

I'm curious as photographers, Over the years we own different camera bodies and Like to see the progression.

My progression

1999 - My grandfather gave me my Minolta Maxxum AF 35mm Camera W/ 50mm 1.8 & Yashica MAT-124G

2002 - Sold my Yashica and saved cash for a beat-up used Hassleblad 501CM w/ 85mm Zeiss 2.8.

2005 - Bought a old minolta flatbed scanner & A canon 10D w/50mm 1.8. Lightly ventured into 4x5 viewcamera's for landscapes. (mostly not my equipment)

2008 - Sold my Minolta scanner, Hassleblad, Canon 10D. Purchased a Rebel XSI, bought 5Dc, 10-22mm, 50mm 1.4, and 135L

2010 - Broke XSI CPS trade for 7D. Bought 50L

2012 - Sold 5Dc, Bought 5D3 and 24L II.

*Future* - Sell 7D and 10-22mm, Purchase 5D4

Thats Where I Am Now. Lets hear you story! ;D

http://www.canonwatch.com/chuck-westfall-shows-the-canon-eos-6d-wireless-connectivity/

Looks like fun!

Thanks,
Drew

I have plans to shoot individual portraits against a blown-out white paper background. My strobes will be flagged and lens will have the hood on to reduce flare, but I will still have good amount of light reflected from the background coming into my lens. My Question: which of my lenses will produce the least amount of flare/haze. My Canon Lenses are 24-70 f/2.8 I, 70-200 f/2.8 IS II or 85L f/1.2 II. I am aware that haze can be reduced/fixed in post. I'll light the white background paper with two reflective umbrellas and one big softbox for keylight. I am hoping someone has been there and done that so I don't have to test and compare them myself. Thank you.

I've just upgraded from a 7D to a 5D III. Will I get any noticable difference if I upgrade my 60mb/s compact flash cards to 90mb/s cards?

Hey Folks,
Every time I put my 580EXII as master, he suddenly begins to fail. Every 4 or 5 shots, sometimes at one of these i have the correct exposure, and in others it just sends pre-flashes, but does not fire nor the principal nor the slave.
When I use the STE2, it works 100% perfect.
When the master flash is in manual power, it also works perfect, flawless. Always do this for weddings and indoor photography, so are never at maximum power.
I believe then be a system problem ETTL.
Always use all my flashes (master and slaves) with charged batteries and the battery packs.
On the menu, already assured that the master is to shoot (arrows symbol and light in the master flash).

What should I do?
Getting crazy with that!!!

Dear Co-Canon-Lens-Users!

Anyone here having the experience of Dust particles or a some kind of visible "mark" inside the lenses and between the most rear lens element pointing into the camera (not in the front elements) of Canon EF 135 f/2L

I would very much appreciate your advice, if someone have cared to maybe try to "open up" or disassemble yourself a lens in order to remove internal dust particles from a EF135mm f/2L without IS?

1. Is this "over-kill" to do?
2. Will Canon accept to remove this from a "L"-lens that should be dust-resistant?
3. Could this operation to take apart an new Canon factory "put-together" lens even have the risk of making the whole lens out of center or even worse the dust-problem?
4. Is Canon granting a free dust-removal to a brand-new lens that is less than a year old since purchased?
5. the dust or some kind of visible "mark" is between the most rear glass and the next one as far as I can see when I look through the open lens against light from window - could I somehow "open" this lens myself or is it maybe jeopardize the integrity of this lens altogether?

To me it is a bit a disappointment to find this dust/mark quite late after purchase in April 2012 this year and I am in doubt of getting any real help!

What is your most wise advice - if you yourself were into this dust/visible mark inside a fast glass like this and the dust/visible mark is in REAR of the lens barrel=?

Thank you for your valued thoughts/advice!

Wishing you all the Best and of course may you have NO dust in your primes!

/Charl

I currently have a 5d ii, 60d, 16-35, 50 1.8(af broken), 24-105, 70-200 is ii.

If i had to narrow down the top two things i do with my stuff it would be portraits/weddings and videography.
i would like to have a prime for lower light video and better background separation in portraits. what would you suggest?
I have narrowed it down to three(sorta). The 135mm or 50mm(1.2 or 1.4).
I have tried the 85mm 1.2 and the focus will not do for video so nice lens but not something I wanna weigh myself down with. I have also used the 100L macro and it was good. I am actual sad i returned it but with focus being so slow it will have to come later as most of my shoots are candid orientated, great for video though.
I have narrowed it down to three(sorta). The 135mm or 50mm(1.2 or 1.4).
I love build quality of the L so would i regret the 50 1.4 like i did the 70-200 non is? or is the 135 really a beast like everyone claims and are we really that close to a 1.8 is that i need to hold off? either waiting for a refurb deal or using the current rebates to get one. Thanks for your input.

Hi Guys,

I want to gear up but i`m in a dilemma, and i m not a professional but photography is my hobbie.

MY current gear is:
Canon 7D
Canon 70-200 2.8 IS II
Tokina 11-16 2.8
Filters: Polarizer b+w 77mm, gnd 0.6 lee

I shoot mainly landscapes with lots of times a human element to give the final touch and portraits.

My dilemma is to buy the new canon 24-70 II or make and keep the current gear or buy another body (5d mark ii) sell the tokina and buy the 17-40,

I would like very mucho to have them both but i don`t have the money to the this investment at the same time.

Any thoughts?
Thanks

Hi guys!

I was just out shooting and wanted to some HDR and I have my camera set to bracketing, I open LiveView to shoot without mirrorflipping when I discover this:

When I want to spread my bracketing shots I normally use the top wheel and that works, then when I want to move the whole scale over or under I use the rear wheel, that NO LONGER works. I have been through the settings and can't find out why I can't spread with one wheel and move the scale with the other. Now they BOTH spread.

Thanks!

It is time to upgrade somthing in my photo equipment. And I need some advice.

Now thinking about these upgrades:
1. Canon 5D classic (upgrade 1ds2 or 5D2 ? )
2. 50mm 1.4 (upgrade to 50mm 1.2L ? )
3. buy f/2.8 3rd party zoom ? (I use zoom lens very rare so thinking do I need to upgrade my canon 24-85)

4. I don't have anything in 85-135mm range so maybe I need to buy one of those:
Canon 85mm 1.8
Sigma 85mm 1.4
Canon 85mm 1.2 Mark I
Canon 100mm 2.8 macro (maybe non L ?)
Canon 135mm 2L (If I will buy this then probably my 200L 2.8 will stay unused in bag. But maybe worth it?)

Canon seems to keep coming out with new lenses, but you still can't buy the new 500 mm IS I or II or the 600, or. Seems silly to keep coming up with new lenses when they can't seem to provide the lenses that they already have "on the market" I have a 500 mm ver I and want to upgrade, but I am not even going to think about giving it up until production seems to be on the horizon. Anyone have any feedback or info?

I picked up a used 1D4 last week that have 100K miles on it. Seemed to work well, ran it through a couple of tests from what I can see on the fly and it worked and functioned as designed. Paid $2,600 for it.
Shot two soccer matches this weekend and on the second day it pretty much crapped out at the third quarter.

I shoot Ai Servo high shutter speed on Canon glass, 70-200 2.8L II + TC 2.0X II onto 1000X CF card and SD card at the same time. RAW to CF and Jpg to SD.

'Err 30' pops up and tells me to shut down, remove and reinstall battery and start up again. This didn't do anything and I could only take one shot. I tried other modes with no success. How frustrating.

Packed it up and sent it to Canon today for service. I've got one more game and then team portraits to do next weekend. I've got a 5D3 and 7D for back up but I've gotten attached to the 1D4 just recently.

Any other 1D4 users experience this?

Here's my photos of Hurricane Sandy in New York City. I've never seen NYC so deserted.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.476223219067091.106196.429078817114865&type=1&l=dcab4cb059

Hi All,

I'm looking for a small, easy to use camera for my wife. I have never shopped for cameras aside from DSRL's, so I need your help!

She will mainly use it for travel and weekend getaways. I have in mind these options:

1) EOS M
2) PowerShot G1X
3) PowerShot G15
4) PowerShot G12

Please provide your input and why you would go with your selection.

Thanks again!!

I'm looking for a GP zoom that will fit into my existing prime kit. I will use it for location studio work, travel, and In combo with a Fast prime or two.

I like the 24-105L and I could add my 50L to make my GP kit. The only issue is that for 900$ I'll be getting an F/4 lens, which makes it limited in my live event coverage.

I also like the New tamron 24-70 2.8 VC because of the speed/price. The only issue is it's a tad bit shorter and Makes it awkward to pack my 50L as it covers that focal length already. I could pack a 135L as the combo.

Or I could just continue to use my prime set and I'm just getting buyer's itch. I've been getting around ok but with non-work stuff, a Zoom would be nice.

What should I purchase?

Rented the Canon 7d to make this for a shoot in LA. Just bought the 1dx. Excited to try out the video feature on it.

Quang.ca LA 2011

I like my new lens ;D This was me just playing around today hand held f2.8 1/25 1600 @55.0mm straightened, cropped and exported to a 2048 X 1365 JPG from RAW out of DPP. Thanks for letting me share.


Scott

Has anyone had any experience with the Yongnuo YN-565EX ETTL Speedlite Flash for Canon. I got an email from Cowboy studio with this listed as $160 and did a bit searching around and seems like a a good starter flash.

Cal

Hi!
The time has come! I'm stepping up to FF!
So a question to all you MKII users:

What's the limitations of the MKII when shooting video?

Do you feel anything lacking behind? or is it something missing?
That might be worth a upgrade, to maybe a 6D or MKIII?

Thanks!