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sold my 430ex2 and pocketwizards mini&flex

ok so as the title says sold my pocketwizards and 430ex 2 ordered 2 600 ex-rts and st-e3,do you guys think thats a wise move?the reason for me was better build flash although i could have stuck with pocketwizards i now have less to go wrong i dont have to put the flash on pocketwizrds too so a little quicker there,anyway any advice or thoughts are welcome :-)

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Another 135L vs. 70-200 f/2.8 II question...

Hey guys,

Yes, another one of 'these' threads. Sorry about that :/ But my question is more specific then general, in a way..

I was thinking of selling off my 70-200mm f/2.8 II and 60D and buying a 'like new' 135L + 5D Mark II (New, will pay extra $100-$300 if I have to). I rarely use my 60D nowadays due to having a 5DIII, because like everyone else, I fell in love with the full frame sensor.

I do keep in mind that I love my 70-200 and it truly is an amazing lens, but being 5'5' with scrawny arms, it gets a bit heavy after a while, which is quite embarrassing for me that I'm considering selling this awesome lens for this fact, but it's simply the truth. I also don't like the attention it brings when shooting street. Being short and scrawny and seen with a white lens makes me an easy target as well :-\

I shoot mainly portraiture, and I don't like standing 200mm away from my subject when using this lens and find myself in the 100-150mm range. The reason I shoot 200mm is to get as much background blur as I can get. I also shoot headshots every now and then, so I'm wondering if the 135L makes a good headshot lens. Not worried much about IQ, since I've read many reviews stating that they were very similar. Also, the 70-200 is my least used lens because I prefer the look of my 50L and 35L, and have seen/heard the 135L has a more of a unique 'look' as well, so this is a plus.

I'm planning on shooting Weddings soon as well, and I know I'll probably miss the versatility + extra reach in this case. Since Weddings generally last the whole day and night, having the 70-200 on one camera along with another back up camera both attached around my neck at the same time is going to make the day a bit tougher due to my height and strength. I could always hit the gym, but... Haha ::) Going wider won't be as much as a problem, since I can have my 35L or 50L attached on one of the 5D's while having the 135L attached to the other 5D.

So under these specific circumstances, what do the you all recommend, keeping weddings in mind as well ?

5DIII / 5DII + 35L, 50L, 135L

or

5DIII / 60D + 35L, 50L, 70-200 f/2.8 II (Current set-up)

I am also very open to any other recommendations :D Let's just keep in mind that I'm not looking to spend (In other words, no "Just buy the 135L and the 5DII" please :)) , rather trade off if I can! I'd also rent, but I think I'd need more than a couple days. Plus, having 2 FF bodies with three amazing lenses seems to be a lovely option as well.

Thanks so much everyone, I know this one may be tricky! ;D

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AI Focus tracking issue, or user error?

I shot this with a 5DmkII and a 70-200mm f/4 L, AF AI Servo mode. As you can tell, the image is focused just behind the runner, yet I had the focal point zeroed in on the runner's chest the entire time. Otherwise, the lens autofocuses really well. Is it me, or my gear? Should I plan on focusing just in front of the runner to compensate for AF lag?

Granted, my body/lens combo is suited more for landscapes than it is high school football. The easy answer here is to say "get a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS", but that ain't gonna happen any time soon.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. EXIF data is listed just below the image. See the largest file size for more detail if you need to.


Touchdown! by Rick.Scheibner, on Flickr

EXIF:
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/800)
Aperture f/4.0
Focal Length 200 mm
ISO Speed 500
Exposure Bias 0 EV

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While the 5D shoots a rapid set, will the focus change during the burst?

Scenario:
Set on "One Shot" you focus and recompose (perhaps the focus sensor isn't close enough to the edge of the frame...) and squeeze off a short burst on motor drive setting.

Will the camera re-focus on the new "target" of the chosen focus sensor after the first capture?

What if the focus setting is AI Focus or Servo? I think here it WILL refocus.

I called Canon this evening to ask, and the gentleman in Chesapeake, VA, said, "Hmmmmm...." and that he will get back to me.

...sometimes I shoot manual focus again. I get frustrated by constant moves back to the focus point, make another half-press... well, you get it: if the light, subject, and available depth-of-field allow manual focus -- and will not change -- I am starting to go back to the "old" way. Canon suggested I try using the AF-Focus button and that's interesting work-around, but I would try to assign the "M-Fn" button to that task, because it's near the shutter and it uses the index finger. Faster reaction than jamming my thumb up by my cheekbone to find that AF-Focus button among the three that are there.

jonathan7007

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Sell T4i for 5d ii?

Would it be smart to sell my T4i and buy a used 5d ii? I have found some great deals on craigslist, which I would only have to invest a couple hundred more dollars. But I am scared to go back in time since the 5dii came out 4 years ago. Mark 5d iii is not even in my range. I just bought a 24-105mm L lens so it would be a good match. Any input? Thank you

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Your technique for switching lenses in the field?

I feel like this is a stupid question, but one of you (or all of you) must have a safer technique then me, and I'd like to start using it now that my clumsy fingers could cost me hundreds of dollars.

I always point the camera down when removing or adding a lens in hopes to minimize dust getting into the sensor, and add the rear element cap from the lens I just stuck on the camera to the one I just took off.

However, I have huge hands and have gotten into the bad habit of gripping a lens and something else (sometimes another lens!) in one hand while I put the other on the camera.

Do you guys put the lens cap back on always? Rear element cap? Always kneel down so if you drop the lens you're a foot from the ground instead of four?

I figured I'd ask now before you see me make a topic about shifted elements.

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Advice for night skyline photography

Hey gang,

I wasn't sure what forum to put this in, as it's more than just a body topic.

I just had my first go at nighttime city skyline photography.

Gear I used last night:
5D3
Tripod -- Carbon fiber, smaller travel one. Decently stiff but not heavy. Weighed down with my bag, perhaps 10 pounds or so
Arca head + wimberley plate
24-70 F/2.8L I
70-200 F/2.8L IS II
UV filter (B+W, as a lens protector only)
Didn't use a hood
Corded shutter release

Shot RAW for everything. As the camera was hunting a bit for focus, I switched to live view and did a manual focus at 10x view.

As for the glass, I do have primes, but they aren't long enough. The city was quite far away. The 70-200 got the lion's share of use last night.

No sunset or sky behind the shots, just a very dark brownish haze of city lighting behind the buildings in question.

My questions are myriad (as usual :P)...

1) See gear and method discussed above. Pointers / comments welcomed.

2) Does long exposure noise reduction apply to RAW files, or just JPEGs? If it applies to RAW, how long of an exposure warrants using it?

3) Live view locks up the mirror, right? I should be fine for managing vibrations with that method, right?

4) What is the appropriate exposure for a far off late night city skyline? I presume (unless I go the HDR route) that to get the building silhouettes in view on a dark sky, I will blow out the lighting. But how do I know what to look for in my histograms?

5) I know that darker scenes merit lower exposures, but am I throwing detail away in that process? Is there some mad tribal wisdom in not underexposing to get more detail, then adjusting exposure down in RAW processing afterwards?

6) How on earth do I manage windy conditions with long exposures? Last night, the wind was such that I was stuck with non-ideal settings (1/3 to 1/5 second exposures, ISO 1600, F/7.1, etc,) when I'd ideally like multi-second exposures at a lower ISO. Is there a tip or trick other than tripod positioning and using my body as a windshield? (Use smaller lenses? :D)

As always, your expert guidance is appreciated.

- A

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Canon Can't Even Make a Billion Dollars Anymore

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<p><strong>Profits & Revenue Down

</strong>Canon’s Q3, 2012 results have been announced and the news is horrible. Canon only had revenue of $10.3 billion and an operating profit of $908 million.</p>
<p>What’s at fault? Well, according to Canon: “<em>negative impact of economic deterioration</em>” in China and Europe. As always, the yen was blamed as well.</p>
<p>The fact that DSLR sales fell may have played a role, as well as the printer business and business-to-business numbers falling.</p>
<p>Are things going to get better in Q4? Not likely, so they may not make a billion dollars a quarter until 2013 when the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x is on the market at $10,000 a pop.</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/25/canon-announces-q3-2012-results-operating-profit-drops-by-42-pe/" target="_blank">EG</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>

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Canon 5D MkIII - Bulb Mode on screen timer

Hi Folks,

Whilst on a club outing night shoot last night I noticed that the 5D MkIII does not display how long the shutter has been open when in Bulb mode on the Live view screen, is there an option to enable this?
Actually I didnt check the top display but im sure you wouldnt want to be pressing the top display backlight button either during long exposures.

I was recently having a laugh with a fellow club mate a nikon user and his Nikon didnt do this, what do I do now! :-[ :P

The Canon 550D shows it why wouldnt a €3,400 DSLR have this? users im sure dont want to be faffing about in the dark with stop watches, phones etc etc.


Cheers for any help,
Regards,
Nick.

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How much will 5D high ISO IQ probably improve 6 years from now?

Hi all,

I bought my 5D3 by the end of August still at a premium from a reatailer nearby. While I am using it at every possible high ISO including 51k and 102k for b/w I just like to ask the experts here, what can be expected in high ISO IQ and sensor tech by the time the overnext 5D (whatever it will be called)
hits the shelves?

Is it likely to make ISO 51 k look like today's ISO 12800 or 25600? this would be like one or two stops better high ISOs.

Cheers, Pedro

I really like the 5D3, here's a nightscape at ISO 10.000 (slight NR)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guatitamasluz/8091631310/#in/photostream

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15fps with 45 shots buffer, 14mp (2.7x crop), 100% vf for $900. Is it Canon?

No, you guessed it: It's Nikon :-p ... http://www.nikon.com/news/2012/1024_acil_01.htm

What is interesting is that this really shows the advantages of a mirrorless design, I'll be interested to see how the af performs: "The V2 is equipped with the advanced hybrid AF system, which utilizes both focal-plane phase-detection AF (75 points) and contrast-detect AF (135 points). The speed and capabilities this system offers can be clearly seen with certain capture of the perfect moment with a wide variety of scenes, from moving subjects, even those that move unpredictably such as children and animals, to dimly lit indoor scenes and night landscapes."

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How to shoot parties (general stuff: birthday, halloween, casual gatherings)

I'm being dubbed as the party photographer for some friends and they're expecting images that are printable. I'm not talking about like 16x20 canvas print. Just like normal 4x6s and the occasional 8x10 enlargements.

I'll be bringing my 17-35mm and 50mm. Along side that I'll have my speed light attached the whole night. I've been practicing around my house taking sample photos. I want to shoot at f/8 but I also want to keep the ISO low but my flash fires at full output every time. Is it safe to bring the ISO up to about 400 without having grainy images?

Any thoughts on how to capture a moment without actually having to interrupt it?

Basically, I'm asking tips on how to be a casual photographer who takes great shots at parties without seeming like that one"photographer" that run around with a kit lens and their popup flash and act like they're Scott Kelby, Ansel Adams, or Chase Jarvis. (I'm not saying people like that are all horrible but they kind of give a negative outlook on photography now.)

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Help! Nikon vs Canon again, but for a specific use

I'm a first time poster... I have an important photo shoot coming up and am seeking advice regarding a weekend camera rental.

I currently use an aging 40D with 110,000 shutter actuations and a Sigma 28-70 2.8 lens. I'm long overdue for an upgrade and I'm looking forward to buying a 5D III with the 24-105 kit lens by the end of the year.

But before then, I will be doing a portrait shoot in a studio, using 3 strobes (Alien Bees). I'll be shooting around 30 models, one or two at a time, during an all-day shoot. Nothing too dramatic; the photos will be rather flatly lit. I will rent a camera and lens for this shoot, and my question is the familiar Nikon D800E vs Canon 5DIII question.

Others have posed D800E vs 5DIII questions before, but for my particular circumstance I am very much on the fence. For my specific need of a strobe-it studio portrait shoot, which system would you rent? The D800E with Nikon 24-120mm lens, or the 5DIII with 24-105L? (I need the zoom for a variety of full body shots and tight shots, and these are the perfect range.)

In Nikon's favor:
I've been reading about the superiority of the Nikon at low ISO - I will be keeping it at ISO 100. But I'm wondering if that is very relevant, since these strobe-lit portraits won't have a huge DR.

In Canon's favor:
I am a lifelong Canon user and have rented the 5DIII previously - it was like an old friend, there was no learning curve whatsoever. I don't know Nikon and I'm a little apprehensive about using an unfamiliar system for an important shoot. But then again, I will not be delving too deeply into the capabilities of the camera - I will simply be composing (zooming) and shooting away. Should the comfort factor concern me?

Or:
Would you say that it ultimately does not matter? I won't be printing these photos at 6x9 feet - in fact, I won't be printing them at all. They will be used for an online portfolio. If the consensus is that the difference between the results of the 2 systems would be negligible or non-existent, I would go with the Canon just for the comfort factor. But if there would indeed be a noticeable difference between the images, that would ultimately seem to be the most important factor.

Which system would you rent for a weekend studio shoot? Thank you in advance for the benefit of your experience!

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Phottix Odin: Inaccuate high-ISO metering problem

I've been proudly pimpin' my ancient 550EXs for quite some time now, and decided to step up from infrared to a set of Phottix Odins. With my 5D3 in Av mode, I've noticed that the flash exposure is pretty accurate and consistent up to ISO 400, but drop off a table after that. From ISO 800 and up, it seems like the Odin's don't "meter down" the flash exposure enough, and the result is way too much light output. Either that, or the Odins don't recognize that the ISO has been increased.

Here are some sample shots with the flashes set to the left and right of the subject. To keep the ambient light levels consistent, the aperture was kept at f/4, but the shutter speed varied from 1 second to 1/125 second.

ISO 100
Av100.jpg


ISO 200
Av200.jpg


ISO 400
Av400.jpg


ISO 800
Av800.jpg


ISO 1600
Av1600.jpg


ISO 3200
Av3200.jpg


ISO 6400
Av6400.jpg


ISO 12,800
Av12800.jpg



Interestingly, the ETTL flash metering is much more accurate with the camera in manual mode. To make sure the ambient light in the room didn't affect the exposure, these shots were taken at f/8 and a 1/90 shutter speed.

ISO 100
M100.jpg


ISO 200
M200.jpg


ISO 400
M400.jpg


ISO 800
M800.jpg


ISO 1600
M1600.jpg


ISO 3200
M3200.jpg


ISO 6400
M6400.jpg


ISO 12,800
M12800.jpg



Do the Odins just not like working in Av mode, or maybe it's just a compatibility issue with the 550EX's?

Lions of Gir National Park, India

Gir National Park is the only park in the world to see Asiatic Lions in their natural habitat. There are about 400+ of them.

First, The cub was terrified of a fight amongst the elders.

Second, The lioness was in a group with seven others.

Third, One of the lionesses was trying to climb a tree.

the last, This lioness was right in the middle of the dirt track.

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Patent: Tamron 150-600 f/5-6.3

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<p><strong>A new Supertelephoto Zoom?

</strong>This is definitely a lens that Tamron would make. If you need length and you’re on a budget, this could be a one of a kind option if and when it comes to market.</p>
<p><strong>Patent Publication No. 2012-208434</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Release Date 2012.10.25</li>
<li>Filing date 2011.3.30</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Example 1</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Focal length f = 152.3068-582.0002mm</li>
<li>FNo. = 5.12-6.45</li>
<li>2ω = 16.30-4.23 ° angle of view</li>
<li>18 sheets 13 groups lens configuration</li>
<li>5-group configuration of positive and negative positive negative</li>
<li>Inner Focus (the fourth group focus group)</li>
<li>Stabilizer (front group of the fifth group of anti-vibration group)</li>
<li>Reduce the size of the group of anti-vibration and focus group</li>
<li>To shorten the focal length of the front group of the fifth group, reduce the amount of movement of the time the anti-vibration</li>
<li>Joining the front group lens and the fifth group, when the spherical aberration correction of the anti-vibration, axial chromatic aberration and chromatic aberration of magnification</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2012-10-26" target="_blank">EG</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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5D Mark III sensor cleaning noise (squeaks)

When powering on one 5D Mark III, during sensor cleaning, a very noticeable squeaky noise (3-4 squeaks) is produced. It can be heard from around 0.5m away (~1.6 feet).
When turning it off, on the other hand, you can't really hear it (only an occasional squeak).
This has only happened recently.

How bad is this (if bad at all)? And does this need attention?

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Travel lens\es on crop body

Hello,

My wife and I are going on holiday to Italy toward the end of November (first time, and yes we're very excited), and I need your collective advice. I've seen a lot of posts for FF travel suggestions, but not so much advice for crop bodies.

If you could only take two lenses with a crop body, what would you choose and why? (or do you have a compelling argument for bringing a third lens as well?) My reasoning for only bringing two is weight, space, and not having to change lenses too often.

I have a preference for L lenses because of weather sealing and quality (November in Italy is supposed to be rainy), but I want to hear your arguments for any other lens\es you would suggest.

I'm curious to hear your suggestions! Thanks in advance,
Seth

(current setup - yes, it's simple :) )
Body: EOS 7d
Lens: 24-105 f\4L

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