I have a 5D3 and have a chance of picking up a used 1DsIII at a good price.
My question is what would be the comparative advantages/disadvantages of the 1DsIII relative to my 5D3 that I have now?

I would especially appreciate answers from people who have both of these bodies.

Thanks for any comments.

I live in the UK and the Spinlight360 is not available through any retailers here, I know Spinlight will ship to the UK where I'll get hit with VAT and import duty no doubt however has anyone on here used it and if so are there any issues with it worth knowing, quality, ease of use etc. Would be good to know if it is worth the trouble of getting it shipped to the UK.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

my 1st post here, so be gentle! 8)

I'm coming from a Nikon DX nad in the process of upgrading to FF and today I was around during an important Canon event so I had the chance to try briefly the 5D3.

As all my lenses are DX and I won't use them in a nikon full frame body, I'd sell them anyway. So I'm evaluating both the "sides" of the fence.

5D3: very impressed for the quality of the body and the speed and reliability of the AF, the silent shutter mode, the high ISO performance. A bit less from the dynamic range and color rendition (even in raw) but I guess I cannot have everything.

Besides the normal differences in ergonomics I'm still perplex at some strange behaviours of the camera so here are the detailed questions (as Canon noob! :-\ ):

1) Is it normal that the AF point in the viewfinder blink red when in focus and then disappear?

2) camera in manual mode but with Auto-ISO on; it's not possible to have an exposure compensation, is it? I used the camera only for half an hour but I was not able to get it. I.e. : f/8 1/125 iso1600, I put +1 to exp comp and I still read: f/8 1/125 iso1600 . Why?

3) Auto-ISO on and I can choose the slowest shutter speed and the max ISO value from the menu system, and it's ok but then, if I have a zoom on, the suggested shutter speed doesn't change to reflect the actual focal value of the zoom and the camera gives me always the same pair of aperture and time, doesn't it? why?

4) Metering and AF: does the camera have a face-recognition AF mode (not in Live view but normal shooting mode)? So that it tries to track and catch the human faces when AF is in Auto?

5) And does the camera link the AF data to the metering, changing the exposure according to the choosen in-focus subject (face)? I didn't get any evidence of that in my short test this afternoon.

Thanks very much, I really need to understand how it works!

I recently had the opportunity to get my hands on a Zeiss 50mm f/2 makro planar, and I took a few shots to compare it to my Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro. The camera was placed on a table, and the shutter was triggered via a 2 second timer. I tried my best to line the shots up, but they aren't perfect.

These are 100% crops of the centre part of the image. The USB key image is the cover photo on a USB key box, hence the fine printing lines.

Anybody found a decent 3rd party battery yet? Or do they all lack communication with the camera?

I am planning a trip to Asia in January, and I'm wondering what lens(es) I may be missing. I am looking for the most versatile combo while also taking a minimalist approach with only one camera bag. I plan to take landscapes, portraits, wildlife, and fast-action shots.

Here's what I have right now:

• 5D III
• 24-70 f/2.8 II
• 70-200 f/2.8 IS II
• 100 f/2.8 IS
• ST-E3-RT
• 2x 600EX-RT

I am considering adding the 1.4x and 2x extenders, but I feel like 24mm won't be wide enough for my preferences. I just returned my second copy of the 16-35 II (due to lackluster sharpness), so that lens is out of the question.

What would be the best UWA for versatility and sharpness: the 14 f/2.8 II or 17 f/4 TS-E?
I understand there is a learning curve for tilt-shifts, but I also hear they are unrivaled in sharpness. As much as I'd love to keep the 16-35 for filtering with an ND, I think I'd be much happier overall with one of the other two. Any thoughts? Any suggestions for other equipment? This is a once-in-a-lifetime trip, so I want to make the most of it.

Thanks in advance!

I have had my 70-200 for almost two years now and it has performed flawlessly up until now. I have shot about 50 weddings with it and no issues. Now it it having problems focusing at 200mm. 70-185 it is very sharp but at 200 it almost looks like slight motion blur or just plain out of focus. I can get it to focus accurately sometimes but most of the time it is just off. I am sending it in to Canon but do lenses get out of calibration like that? It has never been dropped or mistreated. On another note how often should you just send your lens it to get it checked over and professionally cleaned? Especially if it is used a lot.

I should know the answer to this question already. However, I am having a "senior" moment!
I don't remember which update was on my 1DX when it arrived (1.0.3 or 1.0.6) before I installed version 1.1.1.
I am thinking that 1.1.1 should include all previous firmware editions? Am I wrong, or do I need to install 1.0.3, if that is even possible?

Thanks

http://www.digitalrev.com/product/tamron-sp-24-70mm-f/MTAwMDMyMw_A_A?googlebase=1&country=US&gclid=CNXIhcOC2bMCFal_QgodLF0AWQ

I'm pretty sure I am going to buy the Tamron 24-70 for use with my 5D3. Prices at various outlets are always exactly $1299. Tamron apparently enforces their standard price quite effectively!

I am not familiar with DigitalRev. They have good feedback on Google, but one review indicates that the products are shipped from Hong Kong. I am also concerned about the manufacturers warranty. At the link above I note a tiny american flag and the words "local warranty" but that doesn't really tell me what I want to hear.

Would like to hear opinions on ordering from DigitalRev.

Thanks!

Well, I think the title says it all. The auto iso on my 5Dii is stuck on 400, however, this is only on manual mode and thus my custom settings as well.

Has anyone had this experience or know of a fix, or should I send it in to Canon?

Thank you all greatly,
-Tabor

Hallo people, good friend of mine, ask me if i can take pics of his new born baby eva (5 days old), and of course i tald him yes, so here is the pics, i would be happy to know what everyone else think about it, and of course , what i can do better for the next time

hey, guys, trying to decide which lens i should go for for X-mas.
the two lenses are the lenses above. i have enough money to buy one. so which one should i chooses. i specialize in sports, portraits, and landscapes, so i want to choose, what would be better first. please also consider a 14-24 2.8 and a 50mm 1.2 ii. example, if i get the 16-35 now, i'll get the 50mm ii later.

Hi there.

i don't know if you've noticed this:
i have an 600D and 580 EX II
whenever i want to use the af assist (red beam of the flash) it focuses way slower rather than my old 350D and 450D which focused instantly with the beam in low light situations.

Tested in the same room, same lens (24-105L) and 580 EX II in both cameras 600D vs 350D
the 350D focuses INSTANTLY with the beam, while the 600D hunts and laggs

have you noticed that?
probably a bug that is fixable with a further firmware update for this camera. No reason why the older hardware works fine instead of this?

fyi....

http://www.nikonpricewatch.com/product/04030/Nikon-D600-price.html

Dont want a general discussion for this topic but much more of a specific thing-

I´m mostly shooting landscapes, nature (no wildlife yet), studio (stock and people) and some high iso events.
I dont need fast FPS but i need a good enough autofocus which can lock on in dark locations. Both the 6D and the 5d2 only have one crosstype so it would be a downgrade from my 40d, would it?

For stock 21 MP are better then 20 because they reach a bigger size to sell (2o MP are just under the edge), the 5d2 also has the PC-Sync port...

High ISO: I think we can all agree that the 6d will be better in those situations?

Money: I can get a new 5d2 for 1500€, or a slightly used one for 1300 with the BG and i wouldnt need new Cards because i got the CF Cards. 6D+BG+Cards would be over 2200€. Do you think it´s worth it for what i shoot?

PS: Wlan and GPS are both interesting for me but i didnt miss them in the 40D.

I am interested in a Gitzo GM5561 monopod for a 300 2.8 IS but wondered if anyone had any feedback on Really Right Stuff's MC-34 monopod.

Also was looking at the RRS heads and which preference of clamp people are going for between the quick release lever and the screw knob clamp.

Cheers,

Scott

Hey Everyone!

Oh 1D, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways.....

Just got my 1D X yesterday. Been gun-shy because of this little "issue"(http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=10847.45) (credit to Northstar for starting the thread).

Anyways, just thought I'd share some of my ambient lowlight shots. All with a 100L. All SOOC JPEGs...no PP. Absolutely unscientific and non-award-winning...all snapshots. Just toying around with on-cam settings and familiarizing myself with the abundant (current 5DMk3 owner) settings. The 1D X molds in my hand way better than my 5DMk3 with BG-E11. So far, it's been a joy to use.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/26582718_4k7KQD

Just to let you all know where I'm coming from and for future reference, I'm not a pixel-peeper nor a chart-shooter. No disrespect whatsoever to people that do...just not my cup of tea.

I am looking at a Canon 600 mm lens on a certain auction site. I have sent a message to the vendor and his/her reply makes me think it is a bit dodgy. They quote the serial number as 20224. Is there anywhere I can check this is, at least, possibly valid?
I am not trying to buy the lens as I already have one, but I am trying to stop someone getting ripped off!

So I currently own a 50mm 1.4, but am wondering if I should consider getting the 40mm or 28mm, to use as a somewhat 'normal' lens on my crop-sensored cameras. The main reason I'm considering, is because my Dad recently bought a 50mm f/1.2L, and my 1.4 doesn't seem as needed anymore. Also, I'm somewhat worried about the focus mechanism problems that have been known to occur with the 1.4. I'd mainly be using this lens to carry around during times I didn't feel like lugging around my 24-70 f/2.8 (Casual street phtography, family occasions, etc.) Suggestions?

Besides my site I recently posted some on youpic: http://youpic.com/#!/user/AtlanticPicture
and of course the social sites like facebook http://www.facebook.com/AtlanticPicture
and vk.com http://vk.com/atlanticpicture which is way better than fb, but I'm looking forward to learn about other ones.

Show your work! Where do You post?
Which site/s you like (or don't ) and why?

Thanks.

Dear cr community,

im planning to get a new portrait lens for my 5D mk iii.

I have read a lot of reviews about the 85mm 1.8 that it has a very fast focus and is pretty sharp.

Does someone have any experience with both of these lenses to help me in my decision?

The price is actually nearly the same due to a canon cashback sale in austria. (100mm 2.0 is only 30Euros more expensive than the 85mm)

Hoping for good advices!

Thank you - aiai 8)

I have a T1i and use the venerable and outrageously great 135 2.0 for indoor sports - mostly volleyball. I tried the 70-200 2.8 IS II and really liked almost everything about the 135 better so it's no more. I do, though, need an outdoor sports and indoor/outdoor events lens. The upcoming Tamron 70-200 2.8 looks pretty promising. What would you say about that, the 70-300 or the 70-300L? Feel free to throw in the 70-200 4.0 IS, too, if you like. I guess that could do well indoors with non-sports as well at times.
Thanks.

On a side note, my volleyball photo guide is at the top of http://corysteiner.blogspot.com .

Hi all,
I'm going to be shooting a birthday party in less than 12 hours.
When would it be an ideal time to change to another lens to get better shots?
Lets say I shoot on a 50mm on a crop sensor, when do you think I should change lenses, when everyone finishes their games/activities and prepare for their meal? Cause most of the time, I'll leave my 50mm. or do I even need to change lenses?
If it helps, my kit: 60D
24-105
50 1.4
28 1.8

Ps. With these two primes, you think I'll need the zoom? Considering I won't shoot a lot of telephoto...

Thanks guys, starting to shoot more events, so I'm still learning!

Hello All;

I have a thought for a feature that doesn't seem to be there yet.

With our EF lenses, the camera knows (and can quickly set) the focus distance. The computer in the camera can easily calculate the DOF from the exposure. They already offer built in exposure bracketing.

Why not offer focus bracketing? With a USM lens, the time required to shoot (say) three successive photos with three different focus distances would be minimal. Perhaps setable for how many and what the end points are. I've seen it done manually (it is certainly easy to do that way; I sometimes do it just to be certain of capturing a landscape just the way I want it).

Seems like something that would, from time to time, be very valuable to have. And the ability to combine the photos just as one does with HDR would make for potentially fascinating photos.

And if this is buried in menu 174 of my 5D3, my apologies for not having read the manual enough times to find it...

Kudos to CR guy for reviewing the Leica M9 on his own Canon site!

I had similar experiences, albeit with the much cheaper Fuji X-Pro 1.
All I shoot is street so my 5D MK3 isn't getting much love recently - it's just not the right tool for the job.

There's also a definite lack of sharpness compared to the Fuji with every L (or other lens ) I have.
I think CR guy noticed the same thing with the Leica.
The lack of AA filter definitely has a positive effect, so maybe if Canon's new MP monster has a 'E" variant like the D800, they'll be back on par.

However, the size and weight are the main factors for me...

I have my sights on the new 24 MP Leica M, perhaps in the New Year when the reviews are out...

ET