Once a custom white balance setting has been recorded is there a way to delete it? I realize it is possible to record a new setting over the old one but I was wondering about clearing the setting all together.

Thanks for the help.

I was at the Pro Photo Expo in Pasadena Saturday. At the Canon booth they had the 1DX demo. I also ask the canon rep about the new 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, he said its like nite and day. But when I mount my 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM on the 1DX, took couple pictures and then swap the new IS II version on the 1DX. They both look little similar. Whats your feedback? Does it worth to upgrade to the IS II ?

After acquiring this recently along with an L-358 Meter together as a set, the RT is not compatible with the Elinchrom system..darn. Apparently, best I can tell, there are no Sekonic modules that work with Elinchrom SkyPorts..double darn. Though I can use the standard flash icon meter and put it in the queue, once it see the flash fire from Elinchrom DLites it does offer a fairly accurate reading but no way to do an exact sync.

If anyone in the U.S. wants to take this Module off my hands just send me a PM. If there is a module I am not aware of that does work with the L-358 and can radio sync with the Skyports I would be most interested.

Hi,
I currently own a 7D which is my second body after a XSi that was my very first dslr. I am planning on upgrading to a 5D Mark III before the end of the year but I cannot keep the 7D so my EF-S lenses will become useless.
Here is my question: A friend is selling her Canon 28-300 L and I am thinking that this could be a great upgrade opportunity to move from my EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM and have a single EF lens for travel with a great zoom range and L quality. Is this right? Will I get better performance than with my 70-300 USM and my EF-s 17-55 f/2.8 (which the 28-300 would also replace)?
My current lenses are:
- Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
- Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
- Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM (selling it if I get the 28-300 L)
- Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM (selling it when I get the 5D Mark III, but I will really miss this lens (maybe getting a 24-105 if I don't purchase the 28-300... options are welcome)
- Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM (which is not going to work with the full frame and I will miss... for sure I will end up getting a Sigma 12-24)
Thank you!

I recently purchased these lens for video work but will also certainly try them for stills as well.

Does anyone have any experience with them in either capacity? The adapters (two sets) are in the mail and I haven't been able to try them yet.

MC Helios 44m-5 2/58mm f2/58 *IN U.S.* m42 screw pentax
CHROME Mir-1 2.8 37 f2.8 37mm m39 m42 screw pen...
EXPORT Industar 61 L/Z 2.8/50mm Soviet Close Focus
Mir Arsat 26B 26V 3.5 45 f3.5 45mm Kiev 88 Screw

Any information would be appreciated.
My camera is a 5dMark III.
Thanks.

Hi all. I have been wondering if I need MRC on a 10 stop B+W ND filter. The price difference is 60 bucks more than the single coating. At 10 stops of light reduction, is it worth the extra expense?

Okay so I visited luminouslandscape's forums and I found this great technique for really natural looking hdr.

1. In bridge, choose your files, tools->photoshop->Merge to HDR pro **
2. Then all you need to do in that HDR'page'(or whatever it is, sorry don't speak perfect english) is to change the mode from 16bit to 32bit and remove ghosts.
3. Save the file as 32bit tiff.
4. Go to bridge and open the file in camera raw and do your magic

5. profit??

**You probably should first do lens correction before the hdr.

Hi gang,

I've been a follower of Canon Rumors updates for years, but this is my first time posting in the forum.

I recently purchased the 1DX. Let me first say that Canon has done a nice job making improvements over the 1D MK4. The A/I servo is incredibly accurate, and in well light back lit situations the camera is spot on!

However, I shot a wedding reception in relatively low light this past weekend and I had trouble both acquiring focus at times and with images that were out of focus (after focus had been confirmed). Assist beam was on and hoods removed when using longer lenses. I normally shoot and ISO 400 - 640 and drop my shutter down to 1/15 and I'm just below the room light controlling what freezes as always. In this case I was at 800ISO at a 1/15...so it was definitely darker than average. Prior to the reception (low light situation), the camera and focus performed flawlessly!

I had a similar experience with the 1D MK4, along with many other issues. CPS couldn't fix it on a couple of attempts so it went back. I've been with the 1D MK3's since early 2007. While they have their own issues (minor), during an indoor wedding reception they can acquire and be extremely accurate with focus when using an on camera Canon flash (fill / with assist beam) and triggering a Q flash as my main light (most of the time). 99% of the time I nail the shot. This was not the case with the 1DX. Any others out there experience this as well?

I should also point out that outdoors, the 1DX has performed flawlessly! Focus is spot on 99% or more of the time. I tracked a couple crossing the street in A/I servo at 1/500 at 2.8 with a 135 F2.0 lens and every single shot was amazingly sharp!

I'm hoping this will be a firmware update? Or is a short coming and/or trade off of the sensor used? Thinking I'm going to use my MKIII for the reception shots in lower light situations going forward.

thanks,
Michael

I'm just wondering what others experience is with Canon Professional Services (CPS)? I will start out with the fact that I "qualify" for all three levels of membership. I'm just wondering if the $500 price tag is worth the platinum membership. I take very good care of my gear, but I know things can happen.

Thoughts? Who has joined/renewed recently? What are the freebies (I know you pay a bunch of money to get free stuff but you know what I mean)

Thanks

Just updated Mini TT1 & Flex TT5 firmware to 6.150 for Canon Speedlites. Now flashes can't be triggered. When camera is fired Mini TT1 blinks red twice. Have used different combinations of 580 EX and EXII and 600 RT. Have reinstalled firmware in all three TT5 units and changed battery in Mini TT1. Any ideas?

Guys, I'm going to get this lens and was wondering for the Photogs out there that owns and uses this lens, what's the best lens filter for this? Please advise and thanks for your help!

Sorry...purpose basically is for: Front element protection & Polarizing the incoming light...but mainly for Front element protection w/o degrading much of the quality. Thanks.

So, I've read the manual, done some internet searching, and apparently I'm missing something.

I have my 5D3 setup to put RAW on the CF card and JPEG on the SD. I understand that if I take out the CF card, and reinsert it, playback automatically switches to card 2 (SD card). I know that it's a nuisance problem and understand how to defeat that...

Problem I have is according to the manual supplied with the camera, (in bold, on page 277) "Erasing a RAW+JPEG image will erase both the RAW and JPEG images."

My camera is not doing this. Help me figure this out please.

I have been trying to decide whether to purchase a Kenko 1.4 or 2.0 teleconverter for my 5D3, and after a fair amount of research, cannot find a definitive, objective answer to the TC or crop question. So, someone out there, is it worth the $$ and the manual-focus PITA to use a TC on my 100-400 for my [occasional] wildlife shoots, or is the final image-quality roughly equivalent to a crop? Thanx in advance.

Hi guys, I've just created an account but I've been reading on this forum for quite some time now. It seems there aren't many posts about superteles so here I am, posting this question.

I have recently grow an interest in sports photography in addition to what I do usually, which is landscape so I'm probably a complete noob in this area but I am stuck between a choice of lens.

First we have to exclude the new Canon super teles as they are EXPENSIVE!!! It's true, I can't afford them no matter how good they are.

So the choices, the EF300mm f2.8 L (non-IS version), the EF300mm f2.8L IS(first version), EF400mm f2.8 II(non-IS) and the EF400mm f2.8 L IS, all second hand of course, since they are all been discontinued. And if someone could give a comparison of the first generation IS super teles to the latest one on AF and IQ that would be fantastic!

Mainly for hockey, football, basketball and soccer. I already have the 70-200mm f2.8 so yea. Body I will be using will probably be a 1D IV I will use my 1Ds III if I have to......

Thanks for your help guys!

my menu setting for micro lens adjustment is just simply not working... every time i try to select micro adjust for new lenses its giving me a "waiting..." but doesn't change from that! any help would be much appreciated...

I just got it with the early bird special, and I don't have a tripod or fluid head for using it. My current tripod has a Markins Q3t on it, and I don't think that would be appropriate for a crane. So time to get a new head and tripod.

link - http://lightcraftworkshop.com/trapezist.html?ref=Cheesycam

I need to keep this under $200, and I'm pretty much set on the 717AH for a fluid head http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HNS6S0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=A3JD14OD11FZKR.

So what should I get for sticks? Gotta be somewhat light and portable, and the only thing I know of that comes close under $200 are some of the Samson / Quickset tripods.

Am i crazy or do raw photos add a bit of vignetting? I am shooting both jpeg and raw on my mark iii and the raws have this light vignette that gets thrown on for the raw. the images look much better but is that vignette normal? i will try and put a sample up if people dont get what im saying. This is with all the shots so it doesnt have to do with filters on the lens or anything. All different zoom lenghts and lenses. I am just dragging the raw files off my SD card to my desktop then importing them into aperture 3.3.2

Is there one?

I'm trying to see it on the canon web-site, but can't find good enough info.

I'm looking for the same focusing screen as the the EG-S I had for the 5d2 to see true dof with fast lenses.

I'm going to be using my 24L lens this afternoon for some landscape shooting. I won't have a whole lot of time to screw around and do any testing, so I had a question. Suppose I'm doing a scene, and want maximum DOF. I know setting the aperture too narrow can lead to diffraction. However, since I don't do a whole lot of landscape, what are the consequences of narrowing from f/8, to f/11, to f/16, and to f/22? Will there be any negative consequences at f/22? Thanks.

It seems that the only way to buy from this American company, is to buy directly
None on eBay and no dealers

Question 1: Is there a "cheaper" way, or a way to get a discount on new stuff?
Question 2: Are UK VAT and duties, a guaranteed consequence on all imports from them

I am intending to buy the TVC-24 Tripod with BH-40 LR Ballhead
I needed some other stuff from themWith other attachments
So, the bill kept mounting
Add to that over $100 shipping

The total amounted to just over £1000,, before VAT and Duties
Which gave me a sort of heart attack
Any advice?

Thanks

I'm sorry, I know there are a ton of threads on lens recommendations, and I've read a lot of them, but I am looking for advice on my specific situation.

I'm a new hobby photographer, and I am lucky to make a good income at my day job, so I can afford the high camera equipment.

Here is what I currently own:
5D Mark III
24-105L f/4
70-200L f/2.8 IS II
50 f/1.4
Speedlite 220 EX
Speedlite 600 EX (I just order it)

Ideally, I'd like my next lens purchase to be flexible for a variety of situations, including low light, but still provide excellent image quality.

I shot mostly family photos, and also landscapes during vacations. From time to time, I take photos at sport events, such as baseball, hockey, and football. I'd also like to start shooting the nighttime sky, so a lens that is good in low light would be a plus.

Here are the lenses I am considering to compliment what I already own.

24L f/1.4 II - I've read nothing but good things about this lens, and it sounds like this lens would be good for low light sports, nighttime sky, low light indoors, plus excellent for landscapes. This focal length is wide enough for me 90% of the time, but it would be nice to have a wider lens for shooting the inside of a sports stadium or for tight spaces. Also, my thought is the IQ the 24L lens delivers would allow me to crop, therefore act as a zoom lens, if I need a tighter shot.

16-35L f/2.8 II - Obviously, based on what lenses I already own, this lens appears to make the most sense for the focal range that would be the best compliment to my current lenses. I've read mixed reviews about this lens, and 24mm is wide enough for most of my needs. Maybe I would be happy with getting a 17-40L later down the road, if I find I need it for those situations when the 24L f/1.4 II is not wide enough??? The only problem is the 17-40L is probably not that great for outdoor low light, but I could use the Speedlite 600 with it for indoor shots.

24-70L f/2.8 II - This lens isn't out yet, so I don't know how good the IQ will be, but assuming the IQ is much better than the 24-105L, it might make sense and it would be better in low light situations. The IQ of the II model would have to be significantly better than the current 24-105 for me to justify spending $2,300, otherwise I might as well get the prior 24-70L f/2.8 for half the price!

14-24L f2.8 - I'm in no hurry to purchase my next lens. Based on the rumor that this lens could be announced by year end, maybe I should wait to see what this lens has to offer. My guess is this lens will cost around $2,500, and I don't know if I want to spend that much on one lens, when I could get two quality lenses for the same price. Plus, I don't know if the focal length would fit my needs on a regular basis.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

So yesterday i was shooting on the Street Parade in Zürich, a mega party of electronic music.
I saw this pretty hot chick and asked her if i could take a picture of her. She said yes and smiled.

This is the picture, something is not right i guess. I mean the chick is super hot but something is off. Maybe the white balance? I don't know...

Just feeling a bit curious about upgrading (or in this case "downgrading") my Canon T1i.

I love my T1i to death, but I grown to dislike the noise at around ISO 800 and with a kit lens, I've found myself constantly having to push that high.

Many people say that I should get a better lens like the Canon 28mm 1.8 or Canon 17-55 2.8 but I do want to go FF some time in my life and I don't want to buy EF-S lenses seeing that will put me further away from purchasing a FF camera. (By that time, Canon would release the Canon 5d Mark IV x) I also don't want to buy EF lenses because I feel like they aren't used to their full potential on a Crop body.

Talking to my girlfriend's mother, who is a photographer, made me think about something. She's had a Canon XTi ever since it was first released. She never upgraded her body, yet she still is able to produce fantastic images from her camera.

I thought, What if I bought a used Canon 5D Classic now and build up my EF lens collection so by the time I can actually upgrade to a modern FF, I'd have a great collection of EF lenses.

I was looking at the specs for a 5Dc and it's really perfect for what I do. I'm not a sports photographer whatsoever. I prefer to do landscapes and portraits. I love the photos that come from a FF body. I like that the usable ISO for the 5Dc is WAY higher than my T1i. I'm not into DSLR filming anymore so I don't need a video mode in my camera. A used 5D is about the same as a T3i. An On-Camera flash isn't needed because I have a Canon 430ex II. I feel more safer having a better build quality.

Do you think my want for a 5Dc is complete sane? or is the 5Dc not a viable option anymore.

It's a pretty random question but I've been thinking about it ever since the Canon T4i was released.

Canon has been using the same senor as the 7d for 4 cameras now (T2i, T3i, T4i, and 60d).

Is it possible for Canon to create a new sensor for their Rebel line or x0d line? One that don't increase megapixel size, but makes high iso images better, better AF, and higher dynamic range?

I'm not down talking Canon, but it boggles my mind that they've been using the same sensor for 4 cameras. I can't speak for Nikon because I've never handled one myself, but many photographers prefer the dynamic range from Nikon than Canon.