Hi there,

I'm strongly considering buying a 5dii, but I'm wondering if it would be wise to wait until photokina and see if prize goes down.

What do you think? will the prize of the 5dii change if a new entry full frame is introduced?

Cheers

Does anyboby out there know where I can find a screen protector for a Canon 1DX camera?
Thanks.

I have been holding off on purchasing the 5d MkIII as I wanted the 24-70 f2.8 II as well (hopefully in a kit with the 5d), but the production delays for the lens are making things a bit interesting. I have a 65th Anniversary shoot (just family not for $) at the beginning of September and then a vacation to a spectacular nature and wildlife area afterwards. The price has dropped making it more appealing to purchase now. My dilemma is: should I get the 5d MkIII now or wait until the 24-70 II is available and with any luck bundled with the 5d? I currently have a 60d, EF-S 18-200mm kit lens (obviously doesn’t work on FF), 70-200 f/2.8 MkII, 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS, 580 EXII Speedlight, EF 1.4 III extender. I can make do with this gear for September, but the 5d would be a nice addition, although with no FF lens to cover 24-70mm that is another problem. The 35mm f/1.4L would be one solution, but I was planning on the 24-70 before I moved into any primes. As well, the 35mm is due for an upgrade (although still highly regarded). Also there is the inexpensive 35mm f/2.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Like title says, any low iso comparisons? Like side by side same image with both cameras? I've seen some comparisons in videos, but its hard to really appreciate quality in a youtube vid. I'm trying to decide if I should start lusting after the 1dx, or just be happy with my 5d3. I've always liked the idea of the 1d body style and durability, but i need some more info. Does the 1dx have more DR at iso 100? Is the banding any better?

I have discovered a focusing phenomenon with my 60d during a manual focus session with my 24-105L. Normally I use this lens on full auto but in manual focus a number of shots where out of focus despite being dead sharp in the view finder. I immediately thought of the infamous front or back focus problems associated with dslr's but after tests discovered a different kind of problem.

The following steps provide the basis of the test, best done with a medium telephoto lens.

1. Put camera on tripod and set Av for fastest aperture of lens. Set an object with fine detail or small text about 4 metres from the camera. Set lens to manual focus and move focus ring from a completely out of focus to the point of perfect focus on the object through view finder.

2. Take shot.

3. Do not touch the lens. Without moving anything, activate LiveView and activate the 10x screen zoom to see detail. In my tests this was slightly out of focus and the lens needed slightly re-focused to restore the sharp detail.

At face value this would suggest a front or back focus issue. However, when LiveView is then deactivated and the new focus checked through the viewfinder it was perfect and the resulting shot would be in perfect focus. It seemed as if the functioning of the mirror after LiveView somehow brought it back to a better seating. This is not the same as a consistent front or back focus problem. If the manual focus ring is then moved from one extreme to the other as in step 1 the problem would occur all over again for the next shot. This does not seem to happen for shots taken in auto focus.

I am convinced that extensive movement of the manual focus ring resulting in the movement of the internal structure of the lens causes tiny air pressure changes inside the camera which in turn cause microscopic movements of the mirror or screen out of position. I did tests with other lenses in manual focus and discovered the same effect. Has anyone else come across this with the 60d or other cameras in the range.

Hi,

I just bought a used lens (35L). It was in great condition, I checked pretty much everything and looked great. This is my fault that I did not check carefully but when I got home I found a tiny hair or dust inside of lens. I was not so happy. As I said I really should have been more careful, but at same time seller should have mentioned it.

Well, My questions is that how can I take care of this problem? Send it to Canon? How much would it cost? If you have suggestion or recommendation I truly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Camera Canada lists the canon 500mm f4 IS II at $8,999 vs others at $10,999, will accept pre-order. Has anyone bought high end equipment from this merchant before? Is the lens under warranty by Canon?

Hi, how likely is it, that Canon would release a 14-24 2.8 in the near future? Did Canon ever mention anything?
Cheers, Peter

anyone have any suggestions for good photo ops in Mt Rainier and Olympic National Parks as well as places to stay. If there is a better forum, please let me know. Is Mt St Helens a doable day trip from Mt Rainier or should I spend at least a day or so to do it justice? I'm planning on mid-July, early August 2013.

I forgot to add that my mobility is limited. I can handle moderate terrain but not strenuous climbing or steep trails.

Hi

I have a 40D-camera and the following lenses - Sigma 18-200 DC OS, Sigma 10-20DC HSM, Sigma 150-500 APPO DG HSM, Tamron 90/2.8.

My problem is that the noise-level is very high, even at ISO as low as 640.
I am thinking about an upgrade and are looking at 7D.

I have 2 questions :
Should wait a little longer for the 7D mark II (if it comes) or go for the current 7D?
or Should I start upgrading my lenses?

Most of my photos are macro-, landscape- or bird-photos.

I'm planning on going on a safari later this year and was wondering what lenses other people would take along. I plan to rent the 5d Mark III - I have tried it before and liked it, but am waiting on buying it until the "big megapixel" camera comes out.

I was wondering what people thought between the 100-400 zoom versus the 70-200 f2.8 with the extender. I figured the second option may be more versatile, but was wondering if using the teleconverter resulted in much less image quality at 400mm.

One last question - anyone have any thoughts about the 400mm DO lens?

Thanks.

Anyone have any tips that work for speeding up focus lock in low light situations (in my case wedding receptions)? I was hopeful that the 1DX would lock focus faster than the 5DMk3 bit alas it doesn't seem to. I love the camera after a half dozen weddings with it, and about 15 with the Mk3, but the extremely slow time to lock is killing me. Both the 5D1 and 5D2 did WAY better, which boggles my mind! If there are AF configurations I can try to speed things up I am eager to learn. Thanks all!

Hi all,

I shoot street photography usually with 5D3 and a 50 1.4 (thinking to upgrade to 1.2) and I have 2 600EX-RT with me, in case the shadows are to big.

Mostly I ask for permission to do portraits. And most of the times I do head shots or from chest up.

I was thinking also to get 1-2 more prime lenses for shorter and longer focal length.

Please write here what gear do you use, and also if you have experience with the primes 24L vs 28, 50L vs 50, 85L vs 85.
Is it wort paying $$$$ more for the L lenses? ( I know that L's are better, but is the difference day n night like at some zoom lenses?)

I just got a set of the Yongnuo RF-600 TX and 4 receivers which work well with my 60D and 5D3, EXCEPT when I have either camera in live View, and then they just don't work.

When Live View is switched off, using the OVF, they work perfectly, but when I switch to Live View, it won't trigger the falshes.

Anyone have any ideas as to why, and how to get around this problem?

I will be flying into LAX in the beginning of October for some days of track riding at Willow Springs, and then 9-10 days of exploring the National Parks in the SW. I've never been to the parks, so I'd like to get some input for places to see/pixelshoot and how much time to spend where.

I will be driving out from the Rosamund/Lancaster, CA area on the morning of Oct 8, and hop on a plane mid-day Oct 17th in LAX.

Based on fsu_dan17's thread in Feb/March (I hope you had a safe return), and reading through the Lonely Planet Guide, I'm so far planning to go the following parks/places:
Grand Canyon, South Rim (2 days?)
Lower/upper Antelope Canyon (OK to do in 1 day?)
Horseshoe Bend (same day as Antelope?)
Grand Canyon, North Rim (½day? 1 day?)
That would bring me to around Oct 12-13.

Question is what to do next - one option would be to go back west to Zion, Vegas (just a stopover for sleeping), via Death Valley to Yosemite, but getting to Yosemite and back to LA is quite trek.
Another option would be to go NE for Bryce Canyon NP and the Utah Highway 12 from Bryce to Torrey ... but where then? Capitol Reef NP?
Suggestions are most welcome, keeping the Oct 17 date in mind.

As for lenses, I plan to bring 'the lot': 5D3, 17-40, 24-70, 70-200/2.8 IS, 1.4x TC III, 580ex and tripod. I'll probably bring the 50D just as a backup and/or for reach.
Speaking of lenses: I'm considering to swap my 70-200 Mk I for a Mk II - can anyone recommend a shop in the LA area for this?
What about Lexar 1000x cards? (getting them shipped to CN from B&H or Adorama before the end of the month is not an option).

Thanks.

Edit: fixed fubar url thingy.

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience with using Canon 300 f4 with 2X iii teleconverter at f8 and comparing that with Canon f5.6 + 1.4X teleconverter at f8.

I am interested in knowing more about the following areas.

- sharpness of images comparatively
- impact on AF ability using a 1D Mk IV body, in good and low light
- weight and usability of the combo's.
- thoughts on effectiveness of the IS on the 300 mm when used with the TC

I am interested in having more reach for birds and wildlife, both while they are still and moving. Getting a 500 f4 and/or 300/400 f2.8 is out of the question budget wise.

Thanks

Sasha

Here's an example of what I don't want.



And here's an example of what I DO want...

How do the Canon 50 F1.4 and 50 F1.2L lenses compare to each other?Which has a better IQ and sharper?Which has better contrast and color rendering?Which focusses faster?And lastly,if the 50 F1.2L is better,would it be worth getting it over the 50 F1.4?

Thanks.

I'v seen 3rd party atempts at similar things for other systems and unlike the Hassleblad system they don't need any optics due to the lesser flange distance, would a similar system be possible for the M using EF lenses? would Canon consider it?

A business partner of mine dropped our 70-200 f/2.8 mkI, and the lens is in bad shape.
There is a half-moon shaped series of cracks on the second element from the front (though you can't seem to see it in photos). The AF and MF, however, don't work above 135mm. If you try turning the MF ring at 135 through 200mm, the ring does nothing or almost nothing, rendering the lens quite unusable.

Does anyone have experience with damaged lenses? Does this sound like it's a write-off now, or is there hope?
I'm going to take it into the Camera Store this week, but it'd be good to hear your experiences.

Thanks and take care of your gear!

Kevin

Well I'm gonig through some shots from tonight's Ashland U. vs. Wooster soccer match, and this is pretty cool. I'm finding when I import my RAW files, I investigate to see what post processing needs done and then do it, before I crop. Gone through about 10 photos now and decided I didn't really need to do anything to them. First camera I've ever had where I didn't NEED to do any post processing at all. All I'm doing is cropping and saving to TIF. Really amazing stuff. I was shooting with a 300 f/2.8L I IS lens too.

Hi

I currently own the Canon 60D, and thinking of switching to full frame (maybe the 5d mk ii or mk iii) by the end of this year. I own a Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 and it is by far my most favorite lens to date. I have a 24-70L from Canon, a 50mm 1.8 II as well. I was wondering if you folks could point me to a wide lens fit for full frame. The 16-35 L from Canon is just way beyond my budget. Is the 17-40L sharp enough? Or is there an adapter that I can fit on my tokina so that it works fine with a full frame body? Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I shot tens of thousands of photos of him. Now his dead.
R.I.P. Altai


http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-19380140


EOS600D EF100-400mm

I am looking for a lens to handle full length portraits and group portraits in situations I cannot fit in with a 70-200.
For the near future, I am looking at the new 40mm or the 50 1.8 (mostly because of price).

For owners of the 40:
How much distortion would the 40 have in a full length portrait? Would you compare it to closer to a 50 or a 35mm lens.
Would the 40 be capable of a 3/4 length portrait without exaggerating body features? Even so, most likely I'd be using the 70-200 for any 3/4 length portraits.

I used to have a 24-105 for these situations but after some lens changes I currently have a big hole between 20mm and 70mm. I normally used a 100 for nearly all portrait work but expect I'll soon be doing work in tighter interiors where the option of backing up may not be available.
Both my cameras are full frame so I'd really like to hear from those who use the 40 with full frame.

Thanks
James

T3i with EF-S 17-55 at 55mm, f8, 1/250s, ISO 100


17mm, f5.6, 1/100s, ISO 100