Here are more Canon EOS R6 Specifications [CR2]

[Michael Clark]

I agree with you! But my statement was about what people prefer. People (online, at least) have gotten so mad about cameras that use more expensive CFexpress media instead of SD - and they don't look at what the benefits of an Express bus are offering them.. they just see price. I totally expect that the fact the R6 has two SD slots over the mixed media option of the R5 will be a selling point to many people, those who don't want to pay for the extra performance of CFexpress.

Yet the fastest UHS II SD cards are not much, if any, cheaper than their CFExpress counterparts of the same amount of storage. But the fastest UHS II cards are slower than even pedestrian CFExpress cards...

From a cost perspective, an SD card bus is only more attractive if one does not mind using cheaper, slower UHS I SD cards and taking the performance hit in terms of camera speed that doing so entails.

 

[Deleted member 378664]

I don't let the app connect to the camera. I sync the time on the camera to match the iphone and the app records my gps position every minute. Afterwards I import the timestamps to Lightroom. That works.

Just in case you did not know:
An easy way to sync the time of camera and phone is just to take a photo of the phone screen with the phone time displayed. As result one gets a photo which has the camera time in the EXIF data and the phone time in the picture itself.
the difference between both times can be used in LR to match the GPS data track from the phone with the pictures taken at these GPS positions.

Frank

 

[Michael Clark]

DCI 4K is about 8.8mp, so if PhotonShark's math is correct, and EF-S lenses mounted on a 20mp body only have access to 7.8mp, then 4K would not be possible without the camera interpolating some data to make up for lacking resolution. Even 4K UHD (16:9 aspect ratio) requires 8.3mp.

You've also got to consider that the 7.8MP is 3:2 ratio, not 16:9, so you'll lose even more when changing the aspect ratio. To get 8.8MP at 16:9, you need about 10.5 MP with 3:2.

 

[cellomaster27]

this camera is surprising!! actually would be very happy with this camera instead of the R5!! Canon has really stepped up!! :O speaking of which.. haven't heard much from my Sony friends. XD

 

[Ozarker]

Nicely done! Nice set.

Thank you. Just a hobby for me.

 

[stevelee]

I like having the time to be correct on all my devices without regard to any other use. That is a reason I keep GPS turned on in my 6D2 even when I stay within a short walk of home. I like now having GPS in my car, since it sets the time as well as the other functions it serves. Oddly, the G5X II does not have home and travel times, so you have to switch time zones when traveling, rather than just switching between home and away. I did wind up with two different creation times an hour apart in the metadata of shots in Europe. I never figured out why. The earlier one turned out to be correct, when I coordinated with something I had shot with the phone.

 

[SteveC]

Last time I took a major trip, I had one camera off by a day, the other off by an hour and 15 minutes (got DST mixed up and it had fallen behind 15 minutes). And not realizing they were BOTH wrong for "at home" I left them that way figuring I could just add 14 hours for the timezone. Whoops. Well, I did figure it out when I got back!

Reminder to self to check camera clocks before departing on ANY major trip!

 

[privatebydesign]

Since I don't use Canon Speedlites, but use Flashpoint gear, the flash power isn't reported in exif for me to tell you the exact power I used. That would depend upon the position of the sun, brightness of the sun, and time of day, and how much diffusion I use (single, double, or triple or none). Usually I am using a large parabolic with a focusing rod that I can use to move the flash further into or out of the parabolic to focus the light on the model. I should probably start logging the flash settings for the shots when I do it and eliminate the trial and error. Usually though, it will vary from 1/4-1/2 power (usually double diffused or single diffused) and the model is always very close to the modifier (3-5 ft). Sometimes it is a single 600ws monolight in a single modifier, sometimes I'm using a 600 ws in one modifier and then dual 200ws lights in another modifier. Unfortunately, I only get to practice 3-4 times a year and this year has been terrible for doing anything at all thanks to the pandemic. I also rarely do anything in the winter. I doubt I'll be shooting anyone other than my grandson this year.

What I will do is underexpose the ambient and then light the model. I do everything in manual, no TTL because it doesn't allow me the control I want.

Yes, I could use a reflector, but I most often have nobody to hold one for me and I find they don't allow me much control of the light. Since I already own the flash and the modifiers, cost isn't an issue. My three light were under $1,500 combined.

On three photos below, no ND filter is used. I have other photos where I use either a 3-stop or 6-stop ND and the shutter speeds are considerably slower.

At any rate, it works well enough for me. I am more than happy with what I get. On the rare occasion I get a paid shoot, everyone has been thrilled. A lot of people say f/1.2 is not practical for portraits because of the shallow depth of field. I don't believe that to be true at all. Distance to subject makes all the difference.

The last photo is also f/1.2, but with a 6-stop ND @ 1/60 sec. I didn't have a 3 stop ND for that lens at the time.

At 1/8000 sec the Flashpoint 600 is down to 1/128th power even without HSS, or the seven stops I mentioned!

Of course I have never said there is no use for shutter speeds over 1/4,000, just that it is a relatively limited need, indeed I can only think of one style of photography that demands it, underexposed ambient with narrow depth of field and HSS/HS flash, and both you and Vigo know I use that on occasions. Having said that there are other ways to achieve the same thing, like ND filters etc, heck it wasn't that long ago that there were no HSS flashes powerful enough nor fast enough discharge to underexpose the ambient at those shutter speeds and we had to use ND filters.

 

[Ozarker]

At 1/8000 sec the Flashpoint 600 is down to 1/128th power even without HSS, or the seven stops I mentioned!

Of course I have never said there is no use for shutter speeds over 1/4,000, just that it is a relatively limited need, indeed I can only think of one style of photography that demands it, underexposed ambient with narrow depth of field and HSS/HS flash, and both you and Vigo know I use that on occasions. Having said that there are other ways to achieve the same thing, like ND filters etc, heck it wasn't that long ago that there were no HSS flashes powerful enough nor fast enough discharge to underexpose the ambient at those shutter speeds and we had to use ND filters.

Well, I never took the power that low. All I know is what I do. I don't know the technicalities or how you are getting your calculation. I use the following as a rough guide, but it is only good down to f/1.4. Gets me close most of the time, depending on how I diffuse or don't diffuse or whether or not I use an ND or how much I underexpose the ambient or how far the modifier is from the subject or where the flash focusing rod is positioned. Of course, as you say, there are many different ways to do it. You were just wondering when people use it and how. I think I provided when I do. I am not disagreeing with you at all. I hope I have not given that impression. You are far more experienced than I. I get out to do this a few times a year and just do what works for me. I'm not asking you to like how I do it. I do it for me.

 

[stevelee]

I can’t imagine a situation where I would need or want to use 1/8000 second. That is something I never missed having on my cameras. I would not be surprised if I had never used 1/4000. Maybe I tried that on a hummingbird one time.

 

[privatebydesign]

I don't know the technicalities or how you are getting your calculation.

Think of a flash as turning on a faucet, the longer you turn it on the more light you get though unlike a faucet flashes turn on and off very quickly. So when you adjust the power what you are actually doing is changing the amount of time the flash is on for, less power obviously means less time, at 1/8,000 of a second the Flashpoint 600 can only output less than 1/128 of its power the rest of the flash light falls before and after the shutters have opened or closed.

This is a big oversimplification because it isn't allowing for HSS which flashes the light continuously very very quickly, this means the light is off a percentage of the time and is the reason going from sync speed to HSS always costs 'power'. Moving to HSS normally costs 1-2.5 stops of light.

The important point is even when your Flashpoint 600 is turned on at full power at 1/8,000 sec shutter speed it only has the time to deliver less than 1/128 of its total output power.

Further, I am not judging you at all, I praise you for getting out there and doing it even if it isn't as often as you'd like, but obviously having a bit more understanding of how its all working will help your technique grow. I have commented before on how much I like some of Viggo's images, and yours, and I see you pushing a similar technique but very different style and it is one I have posted examples of before too.

But yet again, my original question was a simple one for ryebread, what is it that he shoots that requires 1/8,000 or the camera isn't worth buying?

 

[SteveC]

So when you adjust the power what you are actually doing is changing the amount of time the flash is on for, less power obviously means less time, at 1/8,000 of a second the Flashpoint 600 can only output less than 1/128 of its power the rest of the flash light falls before and after the shutters have opened or closed.

So it's lying to you, then, in calling it "power." The power is constant (well, other than the difference between "on" and "off"), the amount of energy, delivered as a reaaaally bright light, increases because the time increases. (Energy=power x time, or alternatively, power is the rate of the delivery or use of energy, the rate remains the same with this flash, the duration changes.)

If CanonFanBoy ever took physics I can understand his confusion; what's called power, isn't.

 

[privatebydesign]

Here is a screenshot of the Flashpoint 600 at 1/128 power with a t0.1 time of 1/7,462.

 

[SecureGSM]

Think of a flash as turning on a faucet, the longer you turn it on the more light you get though unlike a faucet flashes turn on and off very quickly. So when you adjust the power what you are actually doing is changing the amount of time the flash is on for, less power obviously means less time, at 1/8,000 of a second the Flashpoint 600 can only output less than 1/128 of its power the rest of the flash light falls before and after the shutters have opened or closed.

This is a big oversimplification because it isn't allowing for HSS which flashes the light continuously very very quickly, this means the light is off a percentage of the time and is the reason going from sync speed to HSS always costs 'power'. Moving to HSS normally costs 1-2.5 stops of light.

The important point is even when your Flashpoint 600 is turned on at full power at 1/8,000 sec shutter speed it only has the time to deliver less than 1/128 of its total output power.

Further, I am not judging you at all, I praise you for getting out there and doing it even if it isn't as often as you'd like, but obviously having a bit more understanding of how its all working will help your technique grow. I have commented before on how much I like some of Viggo's images, and yours, and I see you pushing a similar technique but very different style and it is one I have posted examples of before too.

But yet again, my original question was a simple one for ryebread, what is it that he shoots that requires 1/8,000 or the camera isn't worth buying?

++++ Moving to HSS normally costs 1-2.5 stops of light.

A.M. if not 3 stops in real life.

it is worth for me to use a 1 or 2 stops ND filter Instead in order to bring shutter speed within the X-Sync range rather than have flash firing in HSS.
another point is that my light meter is useless in HSS mode so...

 

[Danglin52]

Cropping a 500mm shot to equal an 800mm shot will reduce both the width and height by 38%. The resolution of such a crop from a 45MP sensor will be a around 18MP. You're taking 62% of 62% when talking about area.

Sorry, when I was referencing the 100-500 and cropping to get a FOV I meant to reference the 600mm not the 800mm. I think it is reasonable to crop a 500mm shot to a 600mm equivalent FOV. You are correct point out my error using 800mm. Basically I wouldn't buy the 600mm because it is too close in each to the 100-500. Better to invest in the 800mm

 

[Fischer]

Last time I took a major trip, I had one camera off by a day, the other off by an hour and 15 minutes (got DST mixed up and it had fallen behind 15 minutes). And not realizing they were BOTH wrong for "at home" I left them that way figuring I could just add 14 hours for the timezone. Whoops. Well, I did figure it out when I got back!

Reminder to self to check camera clocks before departing on ANY major trip!

Travel a lot around the world and am really surprised that the internal camera clock is so "off" time relatively quickly. My electric tooth brush keeps the time better... (Great tip above about taking a shot of your mobile time btw - so simple a solution)

 

[privatebydesign]

So it's lying to you, then, in calling it "power." The power is constant (well, other than the difference between "on" and "off"), the amount of energy, delivered as a reaaaally bright light, increases because the time increases. (Energy=power x time, or alternatively, power is the rate of the delivery or use of energy, the rate remains the same with this flash, the duration changes.)

If CanonFanBoy ever took physics I can understand his confusion; what's called power, isn't.

Absolutely correct, and that is why all 'studio' flashes (strobes to us old-timers) have their output rated in W s, Watt seconds, although even that doesn't allow for beam pattern differences so isn't a good measure of how much light you can get on any given subject, it's just a good way of comparing one strobe output to another. It seems all speedlights are measured in guide numbers which also isn't very intuitive nor easy to translate when you take zoom heads into account. Fortunately nobody actually does flash calculations anymore, nor polaroids, so we can leave the working out to chimping or ETTL.

 

[Twinix]

Hopefully the R6 (and R5 ofc) will be able to output clean hdmi for as long as I want to (of course external power). No record limit would also be amazing.

 

[Kit.]

So it's lying to you, then, in calling it "power." The power is constant (well, other than the difference between "on" and "off"), the amount of energy, delivered as a reaaaally bright light, increases because the time increases. (Energy=power x time, or alternatively, power is the rate of the delivery or use of energy, the rate remains the same with this flash, the duration changes.)

It's a bit more complicated in normal mode and completely different in HSS mode.

In HSS mode, the flash is acting as a "constant" light source in one long pulse for the whole time of shutter curtains travel (slightly longer than the X-sync speed; it's lying to you about "1/8000s"), with power being constant during the pulse, but configurable for the pulse. If this power provides illuminance on the subject comparable to illuminance from the Sun, the flash can be used as a daylight fill flash no matter how fast the shutter is(*).

*) Being pedantic, the faster the shutter, the (slightly) less time the pulse needs to last, the (slightly) more power the flash could provide for the same energy of the pulse.

 

[privatebydesign]

It's a bit more complicated in normal mode and completely different in HSS mode.

In HSS mode, the flash is acting as a "constant" light source in one long pulse for the whole time of shutter curtains travel (slightly longer than the X-sync speed; it's lying to you about "1/8000s"), with power being constant during the pulse, but configurable for the pulse. If this power provides illuminance on the subject comparable to illuminance from the Sun, the flash can be used as a daylight fill flash no matter how fast the shutter is(*).

*) Being pedantic, the faster the shutter, the (slightly) less time the pulse needs to last, the (slightly) more power the flash could provide for the same energy of the pulse.

Don’t confuse HSS with HS/Hypersync/Hi-Sync you are conflating the two types and they are very different. Also HSS and regular IGBT strobes and flashes control the output by shortening the duration the flash tube is energized, or in the case of HSS how rapidly the tube pulses. I believe HS/Hypersync/Hi-Sync do all work by varying the energy provided to the tube.

this link gives the best graphics I have seen to explain the difference between HSS and HS/Hypersync

HS - HSS? WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE?

HyperSync, HSS, Hi-Sync, all these flash techniques are misunderstood. Let’s overview these technics to shoot at shutter speeds higher than the standard flash sync speed of DSLR cameras.

www.elinchrom.com