R6 IBIS "six seconds"?

YuengLinger

Print the ones you love.
CR Pro
Dec 20, 2012
3,751
2,269
USA
Wow. How about some more good news? This is a short review, but with some sample images. I wonder how the IBIS does with the rf 50 and 85mm? Not just specs, but real world. Looks exciting!

 

Joules

doom
CR Pro
Jul 16, 2017
1,801
2,247
Hamburg, Germany
I gotta admit that I'm happy, but not blown away with how the RF 50mm works with IBIS on the R5. If I'm very still, I can get sharp images at about 1/8 sec, sometimes. Doesn't seem like there's a firmware update for the 50mm either. :(
Just out of curiosity, if you say sharp, do you mean sharp at 1:1? If so, on what monitor resolution?
 
Upvote 0
Nov 12, 2016
910
615
Ok so here is a 100% crop of a photo I took of my refrigerator controls with the RF 50mm at 2 seconds shutter. This was standing, but as still as I could be, holding breath, everything. It is not a miracle feature.

1R5_9936crop.jpg

Now for a little more realistic shutter speeds, here are two photos with IBIS on at 1/8 second, 50mm, again 100% crops.

1R5_9937crop.jpg
1R5_9938crop.jpg

So on the second shot you can see that the IBIS did pretty much nail it. So again, it's a useful addition, but so far it doesn't seem like a miracle to me.

However, here are two photos at 1/8 second with no IBIS. Definitely a lot worse.

1R5_9939crop.jpg
1R5_9940crop.jpg
 
Upvote 0

Joules

doom
CR Pro
Jul 16, 2017
1,801
2,247
Hamburg, Germany
Really curious to see other peoples' experience with the RF 50mm and IBIS in the R5. 7 stops of stabilization would be about 2.5 seconds. I'm not seeing anywhere near that in my experience. Honestly I'm a little put off by this. I'm seeing like maybe 3 stops, hit or miss. :mad:
Thanks for posting some actual results.

I think the issue with the stops is that the R5 is a really high resolution camera. So blur becomes more noticeable at 1:1 compared to other models like the R, 5D IV or others from that type of resolution. With your 3 stops assessment I guess you are referring to the 1/focal length rule of thumb, so 1/50 > 1/25 > 1/12.5 > 1/6.25, which is close to 1/8 and therefore close to 3 stops, yes? But is 1/50 without IS actually sharp at this kind of resolution? On my 24 MP 80D I can see a difference going from 1/50 to 1/200 with my 35 mm (56 mm equivalent), but not a huge one. It probably won't be 8 stops even if the shorter shutter speeds required for high resolutions is taken into account. But if you want to be scientific about it, I don't think the rule of thumb is an ideal reference point either.

Also, 8 stops being CIPA numbers, being skeptical of those is definitively a good idea. Looking at the CIPA testing procedures it seems to me that these numbers are quoted way too often for how detached from practical use they are.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Upvote 0
Aug 26, 2015
1,380
1,042
I think it really isn't something that's going to instantly transform the skills, imho it really takes a fair bit of work go fully get accustomed to the particular camera and lens combination (even a battery grip may significantly affect it) they need to be held exactly at the right balancing points (it may even depends on the hands of the person, with the RF 50 1.2 one could use the left pointing finger to extend underneath the lens and reach all the way to the front to keep it more steady) I think seeing the center point in the viewfinder may give a hint about how steady it is with the help of IBIS.
And the shutter has to be tipped lightly but decisively at the same time (that's not easy...the 2 sec timer does not work unfortunately, as by the time it takes the picture, you will be more shaky).
The position of the Canon shutter may make it a bit tricky, because while it sits at a comfortable place, it is pressed down at an angle, so it can cause a slight movement on multiple axes.
There may also be a difference between mechanical and electronic shutter etc. so plenty of variables. My best results (that do reach the quotes 5 stops lens IS of the RF 24-105mm lens) are not really repeatable and I really need to concentrate.

Looking at the examples from article like this one and some of my own attempts, it seems that sometimes the camera manages to keep the center sharp, but towards the edges, the stabilisation effect may not succeed. I guess with a good enough technique and multiple attempts, it is possible to makes this one sharp through the whole frame.


And of course looking at it like this you can see that the article is clickbait, it is not going to be that good as claimed in the title...
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Upvote 0
Nov 12, 2016
910
615
It's interesting to see how much better the RF lenses with IS seem to work compared to any other combination (IBIS only or EF lenses with IS.)

Makes me reconsider what lenses I want in the future. At one point I was lusting after the 28-70 f2, figuring IBIS would make it on par with lenses with IS. But if the RF 24-70 2.8 IS will give me that much more stabilization for subjects that aren't moving, maybe it's the more versatile lens to have.
 
Upvote 0
Mar 25, 2011
16,848
1,835
TDP has had some examples in their very extensive review.

"

Note that the IBIS adds a rattle sound (and slight feel) to the camera when powered off (don't worry about this) and a very slight hum when powered on.

On a rather shaky day (I was probably making the IBIS algorithm motion sick), with the lower-assist-rated non-stabilized Canon RF 50mm f/1.2 L USM Lens mounted, the unsupported R5 rendered all 1/5-second images sharp, and most 1/4-second images were sharp. This performance is dramatically better than I could achieve without IBIS, roughly 5-stops better even on a good day. With the non-stablized Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Lens (not RF) set to 50mm, the results were similar, collecting a few sharp images at 0.6 and 0.8-seconds."



This is probably a practical real world expectation.

 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Upvote 0
I found with the RF 85mm f1.2L and R5 with Ibis on I could handhold at 1/25 of a second (even if I wasn't holding still) and still get something very usable. On my EOS R I would usually use at least 1/250 because my hands are a bit shakey. For portraits I don't like going below 1/125 anyway, so in practical terms I can happily use 1/125 and lower the ISO by a stop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Upvote 0

AlanF

Desperately seeking birds
CR Pro
Aug 16, 2012
12,351
22,524
Ok so here is a 100% crop of a photo I took of my refrigerator controls with the RF 50mm at 2 seconds shutter. This was standing, but as still as I could be, holding breath, everything. It is not a miracle feature.

View attachment 191839

Now for a little more realistic shutter speeds, here are two photos with IBIS on at 1/8 second, 50mm, again 100% crops.

View attachment 191840
View attachment 191841

So on the second shot you can see that the IBIS did pretty much nail it. So again, it's a useful addition, but so far it doesn't seem like a miracle to me.

However, here are two photos at 1/8 second with no IBIS. Definitely a lot worse.

View attachment 191842
View attachment 191843
Was your refrigerator on or off because they can have some vibration?
 
Upvote 0
Nov 12, 2016
910
615
Was your refrigerator on or off because they can have some vibration?
If I say that my refrigerator was running, are you going to tell me to go catch it? ;)

Anyway I don't think it was caused by any vibrations from the refrigerator. I took all those photos pretty much back to back. And you can see that some of them were pretty sharp, depending on the shutter speed. If the refrigerator was vibrating so much that it would blur the photo, none of the photos would have been sharp.
 
Upvote 0

AlanF

Desperately seeking birds
CR Pro
Aug 16, 2012
12,351
22,524
If I say that my refrigerator was running, are you going to tell me to go catch it? ;)

Anyway I don't think it was caused by any vibrations from the refrigerator. I took all those photos pretty much back to back. And you can see that some of them were pretty sharp, depending on the shutter speed. If the refrigerator was vibrating so much that it would blur the photo, none of the photos would have been sharp.
The motors in refrigerators do not run continuously but are turned on and off by the thermostat, so it is possible that some photos were taken while the motor was running and are slightly blurred and others when it was off and so were not blurred. It might be worth checking.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Upvote 0
Nov 12, 2016
910
615
The motors in refrigerators do not run continuously but are turned on and off by the thermostat, so it is possible that some photos were taken while the motor was running and are slightly blurred and others when it was off and so were not blurred. It might be worth checking.
I realize that. But these photos were all taken within a minute or two of each other, and I alternated between IBIS on and off, trying different shutter speeds. It's not like I took a bunch all at different shutter speeds with IBIS on, then a bunch at different shutter speeds with IBIS off. And the compressor does not cycle on and off that fast that it would have gone through multiple cycles on and off in the course of a couple minutes while I was doing this. And if the entire refrigerator was actually vibrating as much as the blur in most of the photos without IBIS, it would probably be hellaciously loud and shake my entire house.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Upvote 0
Wow. How about some more good news? This is a short review, but with some sample images. I wonder how the IBIS does with the rf 50 and 85mm? Not just specs, but real world. Looks exciting!

I was messing around and took a picture at ISO 100 at f8 and dim room light using a 24-70mm f2.8 at 30mm updated with the new firmware. The exposure time was 5 seconds and I was surprised at how sharp the picture was. You can see the blur of the second hand which moved during the exposure. I was not making any attempt to hold the camera still but it was a surprise when I looked at the photo. Ignore all the junk on the desk. LOLIMG_0171 reduced.jpg!
 
Upvote 0

stevelee

FT-QL
CR Pro
Jul 6, 2017
2,383
1,064
Davidson, NC
Playing around with the IBIS a little more. I'm finding that maybe it works a little better to try to stay a little more loose when shooting. I'm actually getting a little better results not holding my breath and trying to stay unnaturally still.
Breathing is an issue in any sort of shooting. Holding a deep breath is counterproductive, and holding your breath too much makes your heart rate go up. Relaxation is important.

What works for some people is to take a moderately deep breath and let about half of it out and then hold it briefly.
 
Upvote 0