1D Mk II dioptric adjustment method

[ereka]

Apologies in advance if I've posted this in the wrong forum, but I couldn't find another that seemed more appropriate.

Could anyone please clarify the method for dioptric adjustment on a 1D Mk II (or presumably any other model)? i.e. the camera manual states "turn the dioptric adjustment knob to the left or right until the AF point or the center spot metering circle looks sharp in the viewfinder" but in another forum I seem to remember someone saying that they adjust until the viewfinder information looks sharp. I've tried both methods and find the latter easier although there does seem to be a slight (almost imperceptible) focussing discrepancy between the two methods. Is this just my imagination or is one method correct and the other incorrect?

 

[Loswr]

The AF point marks and spot circle are etched on the superimpose screen that's right up against the focusing screen and as such make the best reference to set the diopter.

 

[pwp]

There may be a fault with the dial on your 1DII. All my DSLR's will show a radical difference in viewfinder sharpness when you spin the dioptric adjuster. I just focus on something high contrast and adjust till it just looks sharp.

Paul Wright

 

[Loswr]

Paul, I think OP's point was there is a slight difference in what you pick as an adjustment method - moving dial until AF points are clear vs. until the VF info display is clear.

You've provided a third option - my question for that option is how you are sure the high- contrast subject out in the field is truly in focus. Are you simply trusting the AF?

 

[ereka]

The AF point marks and spot circle are etched on the superimpose screen that's right up against the focusing screen and as such make the best reference to set the diopter.

The problem I'm finding is that on the ID Mk II (at least on the one I have) there are no AF point marks actually etched on the screen, only the spot metering circle and that is such a fine line I find it hard to focus on. The viewfinder information is much bolder and therefore easier to focus on. The AF points do illuminate when activated, but I'm not sure that provides a good focus target? In any event they are only illuminated for a very short time after achieving focus, which doesn't give much time to adjust the dioptric adjustment knob whilst observing the illuminated points. I hope this makes sense? I guess I'll just have to squint a little harder to focus on the spot metering circle, unless anyone can suggest a viable alternative?

 

[wickidwombat]

The AF point marks and spot circle are etched on the superimpose screen that's right up against the focusing screen and as such make the best reference to set the diopter.

The problem I'm finding is that on the ID Mk II (at least on the one I have) there are no AF point marks actually etched on the screen, only the spot metering circle and that is such a fine line I find it hard to focus on. The viewfinder information is much bolder and therefore easier to focus on. The AF points do illuminate when activated, but I'm not sure that provides a good focus target? In any event they are only illuminated for a very short time after achieving focus, which doesn't give much time to adjust the dioptric adjustment knob whilst observing the illuminated points. I hope this makes sense? I guess I'll just have to squint a little harder to focus on the spot metering circle, unless anyone can suggest a viable alternative?

with the mk1 i used to have i just used the green info in the viewfinder and adjusted to that never had a problem with it AF was always spot on

sample shot below pretty good considering its only a 4MP camera

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

Canon, in the camera manuals recommends adjusting it to be in focus on the grid and display in the viewfinder. I have also adjusted it to the sharpest focus on a distant object. Both methods worked equally well for me, but the Canon method is easier.