5D Mark III vs. D800... what comparisons do you want to see?

[V8Beast]

The ONLy test you will ever need to see . . . . . EXCEPT the part @ 5:20 . . . if ytou are Canonista . . PLEASE look awayby 5:19 At the very least.

Even as a Canon shooter, I don't know why I found the part at 5:20 so funny.

 

[Chewy734]

The ONLy test you will ever need to see . . . . . EXCEPT the part @ 5:20 . . . if ytou are Canonista . . PLEASE look awayby 5:19 At the very least.

Even as a Canon shooter, I don't know why I found the part at 5:20 so funny.

He didn't find it funny. He told us we should look away before we cringe in disgust.

 

[Stephen Melvin]

Wow. There went $3,500!

 

[Piotrek_K]

Hi Chewy734,

thank you for the effort of comapring this 2, surely great, cameras.

If i could suggest something for testing, I'd like to see how those two cameras will face each other in test like this :

same outside photo (same shot, same lighting conditions etc.) , then underexposed by 1, 2 and 3 stops and finally overexposed by 1,2 and 3 stops. Later in post processing recovered to initial parameters. This would help to test dynamic range and both shadow and highlights recovery of Canon and Nikon bodies.

thank you in advance, P.

That's a pretty cool idea. I'll try that out. Unfortunately, my buddy Mike is hogging the D800, so I've only really been able to test the Mark II vs. Mark III recently.

No problem with D800, I know how it is when one gets a new "toy"
It was pure curiosity on my side - since I'm on Canon anyway.

Thank you, Peter

 

[Stephen Melvin]

When testing the AF on the D800, you should be aware that there are severe AF issues with one batch that they're aware of. SN 8000xxx to 8001xxx. Apparently the AF unit is out of alignment, and will produce sharp images if focused on right-side AF points, and OOF images if focused on the left, when using wide angle lenses.

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=41128645

 

[Aglet]

same outside photo (same shot, same lighting conditions etc.) , then underexposed by 1, 2 and 3 stops and finally overexposed by 1,2 and 3 stops. Later in post processing recovered to initial parameters. This would help to test dynamic range and both shadow and highlights recovery of Canon and Nikon bodies.

That's a pretty cool idea. I'll try that out. Unfortunately, my buddy Mike is hogging the D800, so I've only really been able to test the Mark II vs. Mark III recently.
[/quote]

+3 ! Take a really contrasty, HI DR shot, hold the sky (w clouds) back from clipping and then raise the ground scene to look natural in post and let's see how clean it looks, especially if you can find and include some truly dark areas in the foreground that'll still be dark even when raised in post. I'm looking for any pattern noise since I don't have any proper lens-cap on, shot-in-the-dark (SITD ?) photos to properly compare yet. At all full ISO stops too, if you can.

 

[JR]

Wow. There went $3,500!

Yup! funny but stupid on their part! I guess these kids have money to waste!

 

[smirkypants]

I would like to know how they handle an action shot on a cloudy day and what kind of colors they deliver under gray or drizzly skies. There are lots of people with 300mm f5.6 lenses who shoot the occasional sports scene under bad light. Generally speaking, the photos look like utter crap and I'd like to know how these two would handle them.

Settings should be around f5.6 with a shutter speed of around 1/1000 to 1/1250 and an ISO of between 1600 and 6400.

On a 7D with a 70-300 L this is a BIG fail.

 

[dafrank]

Here's what I want to know. I am deeply interested in nthe cameras dynamic range, especially the shadow detail after bringing up the shadows in post.

Here's the test I propose. First, take repeated shots with both cameras with their fastest lenses that you have available. Put the lenscaps firmly on both cameras. Now, go into a pitch black closet. Take a series of exposures, from, -6 to +6 f/stops from the indicated metered exposures to yield both Jpeg and raw shots, go down to your mothers' computers in the basement to load them on hard disk, and don't forget to take off your pajamas and dress in street clothes for the test - very important! On the raw files, please first lift the shadows 6 f/stops, then use the same software to raise the overall brightness of the files another 6 f/stops. Finally, convert the raw files to Tiff, but make them 400% larger than their native sizes while you do it. Now, take the resulting files, both Tiff and Jpeg, and burn separate DVD disks for both the Nikon and Canon files. Go upstairs, open the front or back door of your mom's house. Bring the disks outside. Repeatedly lay them in both the brightest lit areas in the yard and then the darkest shadowed area in the yard. Tell us, please, which disk look better, Nikon or Canon? I bet they'll both look about the same. Don't forget to wear sunglasses in the bright lit areas, as the glare off those disks will be nearly blinding!

Good luck. Looking forward to your results.