Are you experiencing this phenomenon with IBIS on your Canon EOS R5?

[juanmaasecas]

I did try without the tripod - as well as doing it immediately after turning the camera / moving the tripod around before setting it down and immediately taking pictures.

The issue is that I am not so steady and it was darkish in the room I was testing in so hand-holding at 1/10th wasn't really consistent for me even with IS working 'normal'. Even with clear pictures - there was no way I couldn't be sure any twist / movement of the camera wasn't me moving.

I'll need to mess around with it some more when I have more light to work with. I was stopped down so I could make sure the edges would be reasonably sharp making it easier for me to detect issues.

I do also have an RF 24-70mm f2.8L - I can test with that one too. I also have several EF lenses. Would you think it better to test wide open or zoomed in? I can certainly do both but would like to focus on the most likely opportunity to catch issues.

Try focusing directly near the corner at something far with small details, you can hold your elbows on a surface or something…

 

[MikeDVB]

Try focusing directly near the corner at something far with small details, you can hold your elbows on a surface or something…

Yeah tomorrow sometime if I have the time I'm going to mess with it a little bit more.

 

[highdesertmesa]

Sounds more like a glitch with the mechanical shutter. It could have a physical issue that causes it to hop or jump on the first shot. OR — When the camera is off or idle for a time, it might have some sort of park mode that requires the camera to reset the the shutter to the ready position. So it could be IBIS cannot cope with the extra shock of the mechanical shutter getting itself into position.

 

[Jonathan Thill]

Sounds more like a glitch with the mechanical shutter. It could have a physical issue that causes it to hop or jump on the first shot. OR — When the camera is off or idle for a time, it might have some sort of park mode that requires the camera to reset the the shutter to the ready position. So it could be IBIS cannot cope with the extra shock of the mechanical shutter getting itself into position.

Happens with silent shutter.

 

[Viggo]

I still happens on mine even if I’m not directly from wake up or start up, going through menus and reviewing shots and back to shooting it’s still there…

 

[Rzrsharp]

Did not read through all the previous posts, I had done a rapid test.
I can not repeat this "twist" (I don't understanad either, what is a "twist"?)
Camera: R5 (purchased Nov, 2020), Lens: RF28-70, Shutter: EFCS

But I have another problem to report here: the focus is "drifting" when shot at H+, meanwhile some of the photos lose the focus even focused on a still subject.

This focus drifting @H+ is not always embarrassing, it can be used to generate focus stacking (Canon's focus bracketingg) photo.

 

[Del Paso]

I guess for the time being I'll just keep my totally reliable EOS 5D IV and EOS R.
Both never had any bugs as far as I've noticed.
My next camera will be the R 3, for its bigger size, after a little waiting (bug fixing) time...

 

[Jabbermack]

Why has my post been deleted!!?

 

[entoman]

I've got another IBIS-related bug with my R5. On "rare occasions" , i.e. once in every 200 or so shots, the camera starts making a regular, repetitive tapping or knocking noise. This appears to be caused by the IBIS causing the sensor to move to to its extreme position, and then reset to the base position multiple times. This "knocking", which can be felt through the body, continues non-stop and can only be stopped by switching the camera off and on again.

So far, this has only happened when using my EF 180mm F3.5L macro. All my lenses are EF, so I don't know whether this "phenomenon" also occurs when using RF lenses.

 

[YuengLinger]

Try focusing directly near the corner at something far with small details, you can hold your elbows on a surface or something…

I'm able to reproduce this phenomenon on the R5 and R6 using the Rf 50mm 1.2L.

Thank you for identifying the pattern and reporting it here!

Although I suspected an IBIS related problem--but never pinned it down to only the first shot or non IS lenses--I discounted it after a series of tests ON A TRIPOD. But I kept getting unexpected motion blur from time to time. Despite my habit of almost always taking bursts of at least three shots (and apparently working around this issue unwittingly), this would have kept bugging me and prompting head scratching for who knows how long. I am sincerely grateful to you!

I wouldn't be surprised, when this is fixed, to learn that Ramage is on the right track with his hypothesis: "If I had to guess I think there is a call being made to the lens IS system that does not get a response because there is no IS system. Those lines of code are then skipped on the second call and the system reacts like it should when relying on IBIS alone. In simple terms there is a missing if statement."

I will definitely let CPS know yet another customer is experiencing this issue.

 

[juanmaasecas]

I'm able to reproduce this phenomenon on the R5 and R6 using the Rf 50mm 1.2L.

Thank you for identifying the pattern and reporting it here!

Although I suspected an IBIS related problem--but never pinned it down to only the first shot or non IS lenses--I discounted it after a series of tests ON A TRIPOD. But I kept getting unexpected motion blur from time to time. Despite my habit of almost always taking bursts of at least three shots (and apparently working around this issue unwittingly), this would have kept bugging me and prompting head scratching for who knows how long. I am sincerely grateful to you!

I wouldn't be surprised, when this is fixed, to learn that Ramage is on the right track with his hypothesis: "If I had to guess I think there is a call being made to the lens IS system that does not get a response because there is no IS system. Those lines of code are then skipped on the second call and the system reacts like it should when relying on IBIS alone. In simple terms there is a missing if statement."

I will definitely let CPS know yet another customer is experiencing this issue.

It seems Canon is aware of the issue and it will be fixed

A firmware update to address the IBIS issue is coming, no date yet [CR3] #EOSR5 #EOSR6

There have now been multiple reports about the IBIS shift/tilt on the Canon EOS R5 and Canon EOS R6, so I think it's safe to say it's more than a "phenomenon

www.canonrumors.com

Thank you canonrumors for giving me voice!

 

[miketcool]

…Maybe ibis is somehow programmed to counteract the shake of the mechanical shutter no matter what kind of shutter is selected, and when the camera is set in other than fully mechanical, we see this overcompensation…

This is likely the reason for the initial over-compensation. The first shots from waking or turning on exhibit the peripheral blur in my images. When shooting digital in a studio, I expect to burn the first few shots anyways while dialing in settings. This issue needs to be addressed for those who shoot action and photo-journalism, when the expectation to have an always ready camera is marred with a mechanical flaw.

 

[Karl Guttag]

His description is misleading, he states that the sensor twists after the first picture, but he's complaining that the first picture is blurry, so his camera sensor is twisting during the exposure, not after.

With that being said, I've never noticed that issue on my R6. I've seen the EVF twisting after the exposure, but I suppose that is "expected behaviour".

He didn't do the best job of describing the problem, but the problem he found has been verified by many people, while some claim they can't duplicate the problem.

It occurs on the first shot after focusing. Using electronic High-Speed Shutter in the fastest (+) mode, I was able to see the amount of rotation decrease between the 1st and 2nd shot and then become stable. This suggests the twist is occurring at the beginning of the shooting.
You have to be using a non-IS lens that lets you set the IBIS to "Always" vs "Only on Shot." In "Always on Shot" mode is where the problem occurs. If you switch to "Only on Shot" it goes away. The problem is most evident at about 1/10th of a second. It does not occur on a tripod in either IBIS mode.

 

[Kit Chan]

And still no EFCS patch for the M6 mk2 with IS lenses

 

[JohnC]

I’ve seen this shooting on a tripod. Here I was thinking I had forgotten how to focus correctly or something. My suspicion would be that it has something to do with the way the ibis starts up...starts with wobble and settles down.

 

[David_E]

Continue reading...

I have tried to reproduce this fault with my R5, but I am unable to do so. If I understand the (sometimes garbled) problem, the first photo after power-on or wake-up might be blurred. I tried an RF 24-240, an RF 35mm macro, and an EF 24-105 lens, and in no case did I experience a blurred first shot. Here is just one example, my garden shed, first shot after turning the camera on. RF 24-240mm @90mm ƒ9. Electronic shutter. This is the full frame, but CR would not accept the full-resolution photo (8192 x 5464) so I reduced it to 5000 x 3335. Conditions: heavy overcast. No user processing.

 

[Bdbtoys]

I have tried to reproduce this fault with my R5, but I am unable to do so. If I understand the (sometimes garbled) problem, the first photo after power-on or wake-up might be blurred. I tried an RF 24-240, an RF 35mm macro, and an EF 25-105 lens, and in no case did I experience a blurred first shot. Here is just one example, my garden shed, first shot after turning the camera on. RF 24-240mm @90mm ƒ9. Electronic shutter. This is the full frame, but CR would not accept the full-resolution photo (8192 x 5464) so I reduced it to 5000 x 3335. Conditions: heavy overcast. No user processing.

The issue appears on Non-IS Lenses. All the lenses you listed are IS, so it would make sense you are not seeing it.

 

[Jostian]

I can see a definite difference between shots at slower shutter speeds, when I compared sharpness between shots at 1/125th of a second or shower at 24mm vs shots at 1/250th there is a definite difference, with the faster shots being noticeably sharper, so there is a definite issue. Doesn't matter if lens stabilisation is off or on, results are the same.

 

[Jostian]

I have tried to reproduce this fault with my R5, but I am unable to do so. If I understand the (sometimes garbled) problem, the first photo after power-on or wake-up might be blurred. I tried an RF 24-240, an RF 35mm macro, and an EF 24-105 lens, and in no case did I experience a blurred first shot. Here is just one example, my garden shed, first shot after turning the camera on. RF 24-240mm @90mm ƒ9. Electronic shutter. This is the full frame, but CR would not accept the full-resolution photo (8192 x 5464) so I reduced it to 5000 x 3335. Conditions: heavy overcast. No user processing.

Compare slower (1/125th) shutter speed IQ to 1/250 or faster shutter speed IQ.

 

[AlanF]

Compare slower (1/125th) shutter speed IQ to 1/250 or faster shutter speed IQ.

I have always got with telephoto lenses sharper images at shutter speeds higher than /125s on every Canon body I have ever used. I prefer to be above 1/1000s as I crop images.